Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:42 AM - The Value of a Forum... (Matt Dralle)
1. 01:41 AM - Re: Re: broken tap (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: broken tap (hagargs)
3. 02:03 PM - Re: broken tap (Fred Klein)
4. 07:21 PM - Re: broken tap (Andrew Sarangan)
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| Subject: | The Value of a Forum... |
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Message 1
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Fred=0Ayou could try pushing four bits of locking wire down the flutes,twis
t them =0Atogether and trying to work it out. Best approach at that stage i
s twisting and =0Areversing a bit at a time. You will need to break off the
bits of swarf from the =0Alast bit of cutting before the tap broke. Warmin
g the aluminum might help, it =0Awill expand more than the steel tap. Good
luck!=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Fred Kle
in <fklein@orcasonline.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturda
y, 19 November, 2011 4:20:58=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: broken tap=0A
=0A=0A=0AOn Nov 18, 2011, at 7:45 PM, rparigoris wrote:=0A=0A> =0A> **I rem
ember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they have prongs
=0A>to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster,=0A=0ARon...exc
ellent suggestion...I find that "4 finger" extractors exist...and =0Ahopefu
lly, I can find one locally which I can borrow!=0A=0AThanks much...Fred=0A
=====================
Message 2
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Depending on how far you are in get a punch and a big hammer and punch it through
all the way from the best side. Then drill the hole for a heli-coil and go
ahead and put the screw in. By the way you should be using coarse threads for
soft material like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
Steve Hagar
-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
>Sent: Nov 18, 2011 7:14 PM
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: broken tap
>
>
>Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
>
>While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
>I've broken the tap.
>
>I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
>but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
>arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
>wheel would attach.
>
>Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
>tap.
>
>I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
>broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
>end up having to use a larger bolt.
>
>One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
>which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
>bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
>partially-plugged hole.
>
>On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
>extracting the broken tap?
>
>Any suggestions?...anyone?
>
>Fred
>A194
>
>
Message 3
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On Nov 19, 2011, at 5:10 AM, hagargs wrote:
> By the way you should be using coarse threads for soft material
> like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
Good point Steve...it hadn't occurred to me to use coarse threads.
I'll be needing to safety-wire the bolts, so I'd ordered (and have in
hand) AN3H-3 bolts...looking again in the Acft Spr cat., I only find
10-24 threads in some cap screws w/ slots for single blade screwdrivers.
Guess I'll settle for what I have...and if the threads strip, upsize
to 1/4 dia. bolts...
Fred
Message 4
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Mcmaster has a number of tools for removing broken taps. I do remember
using one of the extractors. You need to buy the right size for it to
work correctly. Search under tap remover at mcmaster.com
On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 9:14 PM, Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
>
> Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
>
> While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum, I've
> broken the tap.
>
> I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish, but it
> was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing arm to which
> brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main wheel would attach.
>
> Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a tap.
>
> I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the broken
> tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd end up having
> to use a larger bolt.
>
> One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap which is
> proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the bracket, and
> drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing partially-plugged
> hole.
>
> On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for extracting
> the broken tap?
>
> Any suggestions?...anyone?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
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