Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:28 AM - Re: Forward Bulkhead (Neville Eyre)
2. 12:55 AM - Coolant leak (Richard Iddon)
3. 01:56 AM - Re: Forward Bulkhead (G-IANI)
4. 01:57 AM - Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner( (stephen vestuti)
5. 02:10 AM - Re: Coolant leak (Brian Davies)
6. 04:08 AM - Re: Coolant leak (Paul McAllister)
7. 05:00 AM - Re: Coolant leak (Trevpond@aol.com)
8. 05:16 AM - Re: Video of N152MT flying (Troy Maynor)
9. 05:38 AM - (William Daniell)
10. 12:53 PM - Re: Coolant leak (PHILLIPS I)
11. 06:55 PM - Re: Re: Video of N152MT flying (Martin Tuck)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Forward Bulkhead |
The Bulkhead as drawn, Is how I did it in the first instance on G-KITS [ Tr
igear Prototype ] Andy, for some reason decided it was not needed [ structu
raly anyway] so it was deleted from later Trigear Manuals.
It is a good idea to install one, I always do on ones I build, helps keep t
he noise/ heat / smell from the engine out of the cockpit, and somewhere to
mount fuel pump[s] on the rear face.
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Frans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>
Sent: Mon, 19 Dec 2011 20:59
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Forward Bulkhead
On 12/19/2011 10:50 AM, G-IANI wrote:
Factory Newsletter No 24, Page 11.
Hey, I think I missed this! I don't have it.
oes this bulkhead serve any structural purpose?
hould I retrofit this (or something similar)?
Frans
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Message 2
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Having just changed all the rubber hoses on my tri gear, I seem to have developed
a leak from somewhere. Coolant slowly dripping from the bottom of the radiator.
I was wondering if anyone had any clever idea how to trace it? Nothing obvious
visually so all I can think of is draining everything down again and taking
off the radiator then pressurising it under water to see if there are any
bubbles.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
Message 3
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Subject: | Forward Bulkhead |
As Nev has said the bulkhead is not structural. I discussed this with Barry
Mellers when I redesigned the centre tunnel of G-IANI in 2002. My version
consists of glass flanges onto the tunnel and bolting the bulkhead panels to
them. This means the bulkhead can be removed for access.
Newsletter 24 is dated December 1999. All copies of the newsletter are on
the Club wed site.
To add to the benefits others have listed it is also a secondary fire wall
which would prevent Alasdair's freezing draft becoming a flame thrower.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Heavy In-flight Vibration Riddle /The Solution /The Winner( |
Now I'm really jealous !
Well done and when are you having your next
engine problem ;-) ?
Good effort Remi ,
Steve.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361328#361328
Message 5
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Hi Richard
If there is nothing obvious visually it is probably leaking from the lowest
connections- The two pipes that join on to the water radiator. They are
hard to see and any leaks tend to appear at the bottom of the radiator. You
could try tightening those clips first. You can buy a leak detecting dye
from garages/motor parts suppliers. The normal first check would be to
pressurise the system but that means fitting a modified cap in order to
apply pressure and that is a lot of work. You could try dropping the
radiator so that you can view the rad connections from under duct.
Regards
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 20 December 2011 08:52
Subject: Europa-List: Coolant leak
Having just changed all the rubber hoses on my tri gear, I seem to have
developed a leak from somewhere. Coolant slowly dripping from the bottom of
the radiator. I was wondering if anyone had any clever idea how to trace it?
Nothing obvious visually so all I can think of is draining everything down
again and taking off the radiator then pressurising it under water to see if
there are any bubbles.
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Coolant leak |
Hi,
I used a fluorescence dye and a UV light and it worked really well.
Paul
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Coolant leak |
I had a similar problem when I replaced a radiator. I noticed that the
input tube was longer than the
original, so used 2 clips - problem fixed!
Trev
G-LINN
In a message dated 20/12/2011 12:08:24 GMT Standard Time,
paul.the.aviator@gmail.com writes:
Hi,
I used a fluorescence dye and a UV light and it worked really well.
Paul
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Video of N152MT flying |
Hi Martin,
Loved the video. Your completed project and website so many years ago is another
example that helped me press on to finish mine. Thanks so much. I'm really enjoying
this thing called Europa.
BTW, just curious, is your landing gear "rubber shock block" made of the black
rubber or the red?
Troy Maynor
Monowheel Classic
#120
138 hrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361337#361337
Message 9
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I am sure that this has been posted many time but to avoid having to hunt
through the archives - what is the max prop diameter for a Trigear?
Will
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Coolant leak |
Hi Richard
Don't forget about the small drain hole on the bottom of the water pump, If
the engine hasn't been
run for a while you can get a small leak, also not sure what type of clips
you have but would recommend
the spring clips that Rotax now use instead of jubilee ones
regards
Ivor
On 20 December 2011 12:56, <Trevpond@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> I had a similar problem when I replaced a radiator. I noticed that the
> input tube was longer than the
> original, so used 2 clips - problem fixed!
>
> Trev
> G-LINN
>
> In a message dated 20/12/2011 12:08:24 GMT Standard Time,
> paul.the.aviator@gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi,
>
> I used a fluorescence dye and a UV light and it worked really well.
>
> Paul
>
> *
>
> tp://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
> / href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comhttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
> p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Lists.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> p://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Video of N152MT flying |
Hi Troy,
Thanks for the compliments. Yes, I had one of the first 'builder'
websites around 1997 time-frame and I'm glad it help inspire you to
finish yours. Unfortunately a few years back Compuserve decided not to
provide free web hosting anymore and turned off the service without
warning. The video footage was actually made about 8 years ago by an
enthusiastic videographer and he did a good job. He let me have the VHS
tape of what he took and I recently downloaded and converted it into a
format I could edit and put music to. Some day I'd like to get myself
one of those GoPro HD cameras and mount it on various places around the
aircraft - just takes time and money - just like my EFIS upgrade (which
was put on the backburner after the bill for my wifes dental implant
came in ($4,500) :-0 )!!
I had the original red rubber block - the one that had the mod in which
you added a ply spacer and cut the vee's. After 50+ days of 100 deg F
heat this summer I noticed the aircraft was sitting very low and sure
enough the shock block was very squished and needed replacing - did good
for ten years though. Replacement was pretty straightforward and a lot
easier than I thought. I'm attaching some photos of the old block next
to the new which I thought were quite funny. The aircraft sits back up
where it should now.
Regards,
Martin Tuck
On 12/20/2011 7:13 AM, Troy Maynor wrote:
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Troy Maynor"<wingnut54@charter.net>
>
> Hi Martin,
> Loved the video. Your completed project and website so many years ago is another
example that helped me press on to finish mine. Thanks so much. I'm really
enjoying this thing called Europa.
> BTW, just curious, is your landing gear "rubber shock block" made of the black
rubber or the red?
> Troy Maynor
> Monowheel Classic
> #120
> 138 hrs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361337#361337
>
>
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