Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox (tennant)
2. 01:24 AM - Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 and 914 gearbox's (Bob Harrison)
3. 07:36 AM - Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. (kees de bussy)
4. 08:57 AM - Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 and 914 gearbox's (Frans Veldman)
5. 11:29 AM - Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox (Remi Guerner)
6. 01:08 PM - fuel hose (Frans Veldman)
7. 03:59 PM - Re: Lightning Strike K21 and Puma (K BURNS)
8. 04:20 PM - Re: Re : Lightning Strike (K BURNS)
9. 06:55 PM - Smooth Prime (Fred Klein)
10. 07:41 PM - Re: Smooth Prime (Robert Borger)
11. 08:07 PM - Re: EuropaOwners Move (Robert Borger)
12. 09:16 PM - Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox (Richard Lamprey)
13. 10:24 PM - Re: Smooth Prime (William McClellan)
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Subject: | Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox |
And there was me thinking that I was the only dumbo to round off my plug.
I think they made the first batch from chewing gum they are so soft!
Barry
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366683#366683
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Subject: | Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 and 914 gearbox's |
Hi! All .....and Robert B
Rotax do a hexagon drive modified magnetic plug to replace your wrecked Torx
original. Yet another example of "if it ain't broke don't fix it by Rotax
after your pocket money again !
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Kit 337 .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Borger
Sent: 20 February 2012 02:06
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox
Fellow Europaphiles,
Yes, heat gun, impact device or impact wrench and proper drive. I used a
heat gun, #40 Torx and impact device (all from Sears) to remove the magnetic
plug from my engine the first time. The impact device was a strange black
thing with a square 3/8" drive on one end and the other end was round to
hammer upon. Heated the block around the plug with the heat gun, put the
Torx drive on the impact device, made sure it was properly and firmly seated
in the plug and then whacked it a good one with a 2 lb hammer. The impact
simultaneously applied both an inward force and a loosening torque force.
Took several good whacks (take care not to crack the block) to get it loose
enough to remove with a ratchet. I have since acquired a nice little Makita
cordless impact wrench that I would use for the plug removal should it be
necessary. Hopefully, by using anti-sieze and proper torque upon last
reinstallation, it will not be necessary later this week when I begin the
annual condition !
inspection.
If you have buggered up the hole in the plug such that your Torx or hex
wrench will no longer work, Sears has a set of removal tools with a strong
left-hand bite that do not require one to drill out the hole. They could
possibly be used to remove the plug. I have used them to remove other
messed up screws that I though would be impossible to get out.
I can provide pictures of these tools should you want to see what they
actually look like before you go searching for them.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Feb 19, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Kingsley Hurst wrote:
<kingsnjan@westnet.com.au>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> When removing the magnetic plug, in addition to the heating, cooling and
impacting methods, it is important to use the correct tool.
>
> Early engines had a 6 mm Allen fitting. Later engines have a #40 Torx
fitting requiring a #40 Torx socket. The latest engines of course now have
the Hex headed plug.
>
> Look carefully because the Torx fitting looks very much like an Allen key
one at first sight.
>
> Also, don't use a cheap Torx socket, a Snap-on one may prove to be cheap
in the long run!
>
> Cheers
> Kingsley from Oz - Enjoying my first real cross country trip in a 914
Mono. 800nm from home at the moment but still in the same State! Truly is a
great cross country aircraft.
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Subject: | Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
Hi all,
This is about a Europa XS with the 912S and the oval exhaust silencer.
2 years ago I had a burned coolant hose (to cylinder 2) because the hose runs too
close over the exhaust. This was a very scaring experience because it happened
just after take-off at low altitude. So the replacement was well protected
with heat shielding. But doing so makes the o.d. larger and therefor the heatshielded
hose is actually quite heavily pressing on the silencer.
Now I like to solve this properly and I plan to cut the 2 rear downstacks to allongate
them by 1-2 cm. But before doing so I would like to know if others recognizes
this lack of space too. I hardly can imagine that my Europa is the only
one with this problem, but I could not find a topic about it in this forum.
So any suggestions how others have solved it, or reasons why not to cut the rear
stacks are most welcome.
Kees de Bussy
Europa XS TG PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366709#366709
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/waterslangen_portside_125.jpg
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Subject: | Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 and 914 gearbox's |
Hi everyone,
I just started the annual check. I noticed that the hose that connects
the two tank outlets with the outleg sockets has deteriorated.
Has anyone found a better material for this purpose than just rubber hose?
What about the oil grade silicone hoses? Would that stand ethanol
blended fuel?
Can anyone confirm that the hose required has an inner diameter of 25mm
(1 inch)?
Thanks,
Frans
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Subject: | Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox |
After I wrecked the torks hole, I cut two flats using a hand saw blade. Then I
was able to use a regular wrench to remove the magnetic plug. I bought a good
quality torks wrench for use with the new plug and never had the problem ever
since.
Regards
Remi Guerner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366728#366728
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Oops, I forgot to change the subject when I posted the message below.
Please disregard it in the other thread.
> Hi everyone,
>
> I just started the annual check. I noticed that the hose that connects
> the two tank outlets with the outleg sockets has deteriorated.
> Has anyone found a better material for this purpose than just rubber hose?
>
> What about the oil grade silicone hoses? Would that stand ethanol
> blended fuel?
>
> Can anyone confirm that the hose required has an inner diameter of 25mm
> (1 inch)?
>
> Thanks,
> Frans
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Lightning Strike K21 and Puma |
I agree with Frans, avoid Cu nims, one response on this subject suggested 2
0 miles,- I would suggest observing (preferably from the ground) how far
away the effect of a large cu nim- can be felt , ie downdrafts, swirling
winds, gusts etc and preferably fly another day!=0A-=0AAs a glider pilot
for 37 years I have been fortunate to not encountered lightning, with high
performance "glass ships" suddenly becoming bricks (when laminar flow wings
get wet) common sense results in heading for a safe landing if rain / or a
ssociated storm clouds approach.=0A-=0AWhen early gliding records were at
tempted, flights inside cu,nims were used to gain height, and one particula
r Skylark 3 (wooden built Slingsby glider)-that soared from southern Engl
and to- Scotland, was struck by lightning that later examination found da
mage to wood that had its moisture vaporised damaging structures-and also
-fusing of various metal parts.=0A-=0ACross bonding of- control junct
ures in sailplanes has been in practise since back-then (1958 ish) .=0AMy
aircraft have cross bonding ( that I am sure would not protect from much o
ther than a very-low energy- lightning strike, if at all).=0A-=0AOne
of the suggestions considered in the AAIB report on the K21 glider break up
, was to have non conductive materials at the extreme control connections (
ailerons specifically studied in this report),my thoughts are that such-
a massive- energy discharge would find an alternative path.=0A-=0AAnoth
er AAIB-statistic is 1 strike per 100,000 flight hours ( is that more cha
nce than winning the lottery)?=0A-=0AI will still choose to fly (when the
weather is suitable) including winch launching-gliders, with up to 3000
feet of steel cable from an earthed drum-attached to a chunk of metal wit
hin a foot of my gonads,(ottfur tow hook)-but with a parachute and good w
eather information and observation.=0A-=0AI would-enquire with the-bo
ffin types out there with an understanding of electrical static discharges
creates a compact personal device to warn us of this possible threat.=0A-
=0AAfter the K 21 incident the AAIB called for and received information on
the electrical activity / energy levels so some one-out there already-h
as an interest in producing- a related product.=0A-=0ALink to the AAIB
K21 incident ( and mention of Puma helicopter Carbon fibre rotor strike).
=0Ahttp://www.aaib.gov.uk/cms_resources.cfm?file=/dft_avsafety_pdf_500699
.pdf=0A-=0AMy aircraft have cross bonding ( that I am sure would not prot
ect from much other than a low level lightning strike).=0A-=0A-=0AFair
weather !=0A-=0AKevin Burns=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A =0A=0A__________________
______________=0A From: Frans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>=0ATo: europa
-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, 14 February 2012, 10:37=0ASubject: Re
rans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>=0A=0AOn 02/13/2012 11:17 AM, Martin O
lliver wrote:=0A=0A> Hi All. Has anyone experienced a lightning strike in a
Europa? If not=0A> what is the perceived result of such a strike?=0A=0AThe
result is impossible to predict. Lightning stikes comes in all sizes=0Aand
shapes. You can get a little protection against very light strikes=0A(for
of course a weight penalty), but since you don't know what is going=0Ato st
rike you there is just one effective measure: stay away from=0Aanything tha
t looks like a TS.=0A=0AIf you embed copper mesh in your wings it will make
your wings much=0Aheavier, and of course if the strike is heavy enough the
mesh will melt=0Aanyway and take the wing with it. Any strike generates he
at, and as we=0Aall know our Europa's can not tolerate much heat, not much
what we can=0Ado about it except for using aluminium instead of glass fiber
.=0A=0AAs much as the size and direction of lightning strikes vary, so do t
he=0Aresults. The best in terms of survivability are vertical strikes. They
=0Adon't search for your airplane, you just have to fly through a strike in
=0Aprogress. Alas, they are the least occuring stikes in airplanes. Much=0A
more occuring are spanwise and lenghtwise strikes. Your airplane offers=0Aa
n electric charge a comfortable path to find its opponent. Also, your=0Aexh
aust fumes leave a trail of extra conductive air, due to the carbon=0Aand e
xtra moisture in it. Any charge following that trail will find your=0Aairpl
ane. Spanwise strikes bring the risk of welding the aileron=0Acontrols, and
of course the heat expands the air in the wings and the=0Awings may just b
low apart. Lenghtwise strikes will likely travel via the=0Arudder cables. A
part from taking the ruddder out when the tiny cables=0Amelt, they might me
lt through the fuel tank which is just an inch away.=0AHeat and fuel don't
go along very well. And of course the rudder cables=0Aend at the rudder ped
als, so I hope you don't have wet feet when it happens.=0AThe avionics and
electric systems are the least of your concerns, but=0Aanything might fail,
if not everything. It is likely you can't talk to=0Aanyone anymore, have n
o navigation anymore, and have to land your=0Acrippled airplane trimmed for
cruise speed and possibly without rudder=0Aor aileron control without assi
stance. If you survived the initial=0Astrike at all of course.=0A=0AI remem
ber the story of someone who got hit by lightning. They found his=0Aairplan
e with all the controls welded. Some research revealed that the=0Apoor pilo
t had flown for at least 10 minutes after all the controls=0Awhere welded i
nmovable before he crashed...=0A=0ASo, I will avoid thunderstorms at all co
sts.=0AIn my airplane I installed a stormscope. If it indicates anything=0A
threatening closer than 100nm, I will just land and fly another day.=0A=0AF
==================
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Subject: | Re: Re : Lightning Strike |
Meet the guys that had to bail out of the K 21 Glider :-=0A-=0Ahttp://www
.youtube.com/watch?v=HeLl_Clxf1g=0A =0A=0A_______________________________
_=0A From: John Wigney <johnwigney@windstream.net>=0ATo: martflynut@aol.com
; Europa-List <europa-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Tuesday, 14 February 201
2, 15:52=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re : Lightning Strike=0A =0A=0AHi Martin,
=0A=0AYou may have heard this before but for small planes, the conventional
wisdom in the US is to stay a minimum of 20 miles from a thunderstorm. Thi
s might seem a long way but I am pretty sure it was developed at the school
of hard knocks.=0A=0AIn poor weather afew years ago in Arkansas, I inadver
tently strayed much closer and was startled with a large lightning bolt muc
h too close for comfort. Once is enough; I try not to repeat that. =0A=0ACh
eers, John=0AN262WF, mono XS, 912S=0AMooresville, North Carolina=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A =0ASubject: Europa-List: Lightnin
g Strike=0AFrom: "Martin Olliver" <martflynut@aol.com> Hi All. Has anyone e
xperienced a lightning strike in a Europa? If not what is the=0Aperceived r
esult of such a strike? A few years ago in the south of England=0Aa plastic
glider was struck and broke up in flight both occupants survived as=0Apara
chutes were deployed. A luxury I am unable to have due to size issues (not
=0Asaying I am fat just well built!) My concern with the Europa is the lack
of bonding=0Abetween components and conductors to ensure components don't
explode apart,=0Aas happened with the glider. If as I suspect we all take a
risk with this issue has any one considered any=0Apossible remedial action
==
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To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...
Have you used it JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the
ENTIRE airframe?
In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE
(undiluted) COATS before sanding?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
-
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Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
Fred,
I used it. It goes on the entire airframe after a very light scuff sanding to
perfect the initial bond to the surface. It helps the final surface coat to adhere,
especially if you are using other Poly-Fiber products. I don't remember
how many gallons were required for the first three coats. That first coat that
goes on by roller goes on pretty thick. And after the sanding, you'll be
applying more in any case. And sanding more and applying more And when you finally
get it super slick and you are totally sick of sanding, you paint or have
it painted.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Feb 20, 2012, at 8:54 PM, Fred Klein wrote:
>
> To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...
>
> Have you used it JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the ENTIRE
airframe?
>
> In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE (undiluted)
COATS before sanding?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fred
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Subject: | Re: EuropaOwners Move |
Steve and Jos,
A huge thanks for your work and service to the group. I'll echo Steve's special
thanks to Jos, Best wishes to Jos and his family and long, healthy retirement.
I went in and added a new picture to my album. Worked great. Now I have to gather
up pictures of subsequent work and get them posted and up to date.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Feb 19, 2012, at 7:44 AM, SteveD wrote:
>
> Hello Folks,
> EuropaOwners.org has completed it's move. First and foremost I would like to
thank Jos for his support of the site for so many years. While we were on his
servers we had unlimited space, unlimited use of available memory, and he would
install any software that made the site process images faster. He also provided
this service to the Europa community for free! If you ever tried pricing that
kind of product on the internet, you would find it rapidly becomes very, very
expensive.
>
> So, Jos, Thank you. Best of health and good luck in your retirement.
>
> Changes to the site:
> I've removed the forum.
> I've removed the parts database.
> I'm running the gallery in it's native mode and will make it "look pretty" when
I get it running 100%
> We are having some trouble processing Thumbnails and Scaling images and that
is being worked on.
>
> I'd like to thank Ron P and Steve V and the others who are helping with troubleshooting
and identifying problems from the move.
>
> All files from the old sites are available and nothing has been deleted. If you
had something stored in the forums or parts database, let me know and I'll
make it accessible.
>
> Chat Later,
> SteveD
> EuropaOwners
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Removing magnetic plug from Rotax 912 gearbox |
Many thanks to all for your comments. Lots of ideas, I'll try with the least brutal
and work upwards.
All best
Richard
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366803#366803
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Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
Fred,
Probably the best answer is, "it depends". Any of your pre-molded parts that have
the green/tan factory gelcoat also has some amount of mold release that has
to be sanded off so it is safe to say you should sand the whole plane surface
and apply your primer. It might be a little picky but the gelcoat provides
not structural benefit but does add weight. It goes without saying, you can sand
the gelcoat but not any of the thin layer of glass layup. What ever filler
you used first, maybe Superfil, is the rough fill, likely with many pin holes.
SmoothPrime is the finer fill. Any raw sanded fiberglass/resin area will
have even more pin holes. SmoothPrime, one of its key purposes, is to eliminate
the pin holes. Make sure the surface to be finish painted is clean. Sanding
of the SmoothPrime leaves a clean paint-able surface but likely some parts
have been around some time since sanding and handled a good amount and therefor
could have contamination that needs to be removed. Sanding removes the contamination
very well. I found that if you rub/clean off the sanded SmoothPrime
with acetone or lacquer thinner just before painting, there is some residue that
soaks into the SmoothPrime and affects how the paint goes on and leaves the
pattern showing the wipe marks through the paint. You also want to make sure
you have eliminated the sub-gelcoat bubble voids that are inevitably in the
fiberglass layups which will likely give way later and ruin your paint job. Anyway,
depending on how "perfect" you want your final paint job, how many time
you reapply SmoothPrime and re-sand, you could use three gallons and probably
more in getting it just right. A caution for you because you are in a coastal
climate. Smooth prime will retain moisture so make sure it is completely dry
before you finish paint, you don't want any moisture under the paint. Some
moisture in the SmoothPrime does not matter when adding additional coats of SmoothPrime.
You might have heard in the distant past, someone had a real bad result
and !
had to r
emove a bad paint job because it did not stick. What is nice about SmoothPrime
is it goes on so easily, cleans up with water. Rolling on is so easy...but leaves
a rougher finish to then sand off. I used a small fine foam roller and
wrapped it with cellophane after use until the next use. If wrapped well and
I then could use the roller again even a week or more later. Spraying is more
of a pain but gives a smoother finish requiring less sanding but more equipment
cleanup. Don't sand in your shop or the great amount of sand dust will be
all over everything. I found that 320 grit sand paper was a bit too rough and
shows through if you use an expert painter, i.e., who applies just thick enough
of paint coats to cover. Myself being well less than an expert painter applied
considerably more paint, so I had to do considerable wet sanding of the finish
paint... but that had the effect of erasing the 320 grit sand paper scratches
that showed through. SmoothPrime, though being water based, adheres very
well and sands very well, while drying to a harder surface than the Europa kit
filler (epoxy based fillers) and even slightly harder than SuperFil. Hope
this helps, sanding and filling is a big project.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
>Sent: Feb 20, 2012 6:54 PM
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
>
>
>To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...
>
>Have you used it JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the
>ENTIRE airframe?
>
>In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE
>(undiluted) COATS before sanding?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Fred
>
>-
>
>
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