Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:09 AM - Re: Smooth Prime (Duncan & Ami)
2. 01:20 AM - Re: fuel hose (PHILLIPS I)
3. 03:03 AM - Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. (PHILLIPS I)
4. 05:26 AM - Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. (kees de bussy)
5. 05:38 AM - Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. (Bud Yerly)
6. 06:31 AM - Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. (kees de bussy)
7. 07:26 AM - Re: Smooth Prime (Fred Klein)
8. 07:42 AM - Re: Smooth Prime (Fred Klein)
9. 07:53 AM - Re: Smooth Prime (Paul McAllister)
10. 08:39 AM - Re: Smooth Prime (William McClellan)
11. 08:56 AM - Re : Smooth Prime (John Wigney)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: Re : Smooth Prime (Steven Pitt)
13. 11:46 AM - Re: EuropaOwners Move (stephen vestuti)
14. 01:38 PM - Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday cage effect paint (K BURNS)
15. 02:08 PM - Running fuel lines and main electrics (skanderup)
16. 02:23 PM - Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday cage effect paint (Frans Veldman)
17. 02:31 PM - Re: fuel hose (Frans Veldman)
18. 02:41 PM - Re: Smooth Prime (Duncan & Ami)
19. 03:12 PM - Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday cage effect paint (Nigel Graham)
20. 10:05 PM - Europas in the UK (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
Message 1
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Fred,
I used Smooth Prime only on those surface that had a problem with pin holes,
which was mostly the wet-layup flying surfaces.
Everywhere that I used it there is now a problem (starting to manifest at
about 5 years age, now at 11 years) with microblistering. Others experienced
worse.
In other areas I used an epoxy solvent-based primer filler.
Maybe the formulation has changed since then, but pretty much every time I
try any water-based two-pack product the experience ends in tears. BMW had
severe problems too in the early days of water-based auto paints.
Duncan McF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 21 February 2012 02:54
Subject: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...
Have you used it JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the
ENTIRE airframe?
In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE
(undiluted) COATS before sanding?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
-
Message 2
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Hi Fran
Yes the internal Diameter is 1 inch and i have replaced mine with the same
hose they use on petrol Station forecourts,
the walls are over a 1/4 inch thick so its quite a job getting them in
place using hot water to soften them, But it gives me peace of mind being
at the lowest part of the tank,
I know pressure doesn't come into it but the hose is rated at 150 PSI and
very good quality, i Did give all this information to Andy
draper at the LAA so he may well have it, i will look back through my
records when i get the chance, i believe it was a company
called Hose world,
best wishes
Ivor
On 20 February 2012 21:02, Frans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl> wrote:
>
> Oops, I forgot to change the subject when I posted the message below.
> Please disregard it in the other thread.
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > I just started the annual check. I noticed that the hose that connects
> > the two tank outlets with the outleg sockets has deteriorated.
> > Has anyone found a better material for this purpose than just rubber
> hose?
> >
> > What about the oil grade silicone hoses? Would that stand ethanol
> > blended fuel?
> >
> > Can anyone confirm that the hose required has an inner diameter of 25mm
> > (1 inch)?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Frans
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
Hi Kees
This may not be useful to you as I have a 914 but I replaced all my hoses
With quality silicone ones with reflective heatsheald sleeving over them,
But the only hose I have closer to the exhaust than I would like is the
Main Port
Radiator hose 25mm were it comes through the ducting, But even here it has
about =BC inch and is still fine after 4 years,
Best wishes
ivor
On 20 February 2012 15:35, kees de bussy <keesdebussy@hotmail.com> wrote:
> keesdebussy@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> This is about a Europa XS with the 912S and the oval exhaust silencer.
> 2 years ago I had a burned coolant hose (to cylinder 2) because the hose
> runs too close over the exhaust. This was a very scaring experience becau
se
> it happened just after take-off at low altitude. So the replacement was
> well protected with heat shielding. But doing so makes the o.d. larger an
d
> therefor the heatshielded hose is actually quite heavily pressing on the
> silencer.
>
> Now I like to solve this properly and I plan to cut the 2 rear downstacks
> to allongate them by 1-2 cm. But before doing so I would like to know if
> others recognizes this lack of space too. I hardly can imagine that my
> Europa is the only one with this problem, but I could not find a topic
> about it in this forum. So any suggestions how others have solved it, or
> reasons why not to cut the rear stacks are most welcome.
>
> Kees de Bussy
> Europa XS TG PH-SBR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366709#366709
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/waterslangen_portside_125.jpg
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
Hi Ivor,
Thanks for your reply. I have just mounted a shielded silicon hose so that is done.
But I just don't like a hose pressing on the silencer so I want to create
at least some clearence. At the moment the silencer is even a littlebit pushed
down so there is some leakage of exhaust gas here. This is because the new hoseprotection
is a bit thicker than I have used before.
I still wonder if I am the only one with this problem or ar my downpipes wrong
manufactured?
Kees de Bussy
PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366817#366817
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
Kees,
I have had good success by changing the 90 degree angle socket which
comes out of the water pump and runs the lower #2 cylinder hose very
close to the muffler) to a 45 degree as on the 914 setup. This is a
tight fit as both cylinder coolant hoses will run through that tiny V in
the engine support, and will require patience and good practices to
accomplish as most of us 914 owners have found. The best way to
describe the move is to simply look at a 914. The socket tubes that are
on the water pump are held in with green Loctite and with care and heat,
come off. The threads are very fine so use modest heat from a torch
until too hot to touch, continue the heat (about 600F) until the tube
begins to unscrew. Turn the #4 cylinder pipe, to allow the #2 to
unscrew and remove both. Heat while you unscrew and all works out.
Clean and reapply Loctite IAW the Rotax manual. The Loctite sets up
fast, so dry run and mark where the tubes should be before you glue them
in place. Carefully refit the water pump, gaskets and O rings and this
setup will last years.
On one aircraft I found an owner which put a straight nipple on the
water pump and ran a longer hose which worked fine also. Parts are
available through your Rotax Dealer.
We order our engines here with the ring mount attached and the tubes
changed by the Rotax dealer. Normally this is done for no charge. On
engines where the owner bought the ring mount separately we do the mod
in house.
At Custom Flight we have done this mod to all our 912S models with great
success and hose longevity. The new silicone hoses do hold up quite
well if you decide to upgrade, but I would still cover my lower coolant
hoses with heat shield. I use Thermotec brand, but any silvered heat
shielding tube will work...
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: kees de bussy<mailto:keesdebussy@hotmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 10:35 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose.
<keesdebussy@hotmail.com<mailto:keesdebussy@hotmail.com>>
Hi all,
This is about a Europa XS with the 912S and the oval exhaust silencer.
2 years ago I had a burned coolant hose (to cylinder 2) because the
hose runs too close over the exhaust. This was a very scaring experience
because it happened just after take-off at low altitude. So the
replacement was well protected with heat shielding. But doing so makes
the o.d. larger and therefor the heatshielded hose is actually quite
heavily pressing on the silencer.
Now I like to solve this properly and I plan to cut the 2 rear
downstacks to allongate them by 1-2 cm. But before doing so I would like
to know if others recognizes this lack of space too. I hardly can
imagine that my Europa is the only one with this problem, but I could
not find a topic about it in this forum. So any suggestions how others
have solved it, or reasons why not to cut the rear stacks are most
welcome.
Kees de Bussy
Europa XS TG PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366709#366709<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366709#366709>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/waterslangen_portside_125.jpg<http://f
orums.matronics.com//files/waterslangen_portside_125.jpg>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Lack of space between exhaust and coolant hose. |
Hi Bud,
Thanks for your input. I have been thinking about this solution too. A straight
socket however will interfere with the engine-mount. A 45 degree one will probably
do the job. But because everything is mounted, all hoses have just been
replaced I guess at this point it is easier to make the downpipes a little longer.
A second advantage is that at the same time the oil hose at the bottom of
the engine gets more clearance too.
Is there anything against making the downpipes a little longer ?
By the way my Europa, serial #A168 is the former N-303AU. So maybe you know the
kit and builder.
Regards,
Kees de Bussy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366828#366828
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
On Feb 21, 2012, at 1:07 AM, Duncan & Ami wrote:
> used Smooth Prime only on those surface that had a problem with pin
> holes,
> which was mostly the wet-layup flying surfaces.
> Everywhere that I used it there is now a problem (starting to
> manifest at
> about 5 years age, now at 11 years) with microblistering. Others
> experienced
> worse.
> In other areas I used an epoxy solvent-based primer filler.
Duncan...thank you very much for relating your experiences...hmmmmm.
When reading the info on Smooth Prime, I notice an emphasis on the
need to thoroughly remove all moisture from the sanded, smooth-primed
components with a dehumidifier before sealing the surfaces. Do you
recall whether or not you used a dehumidifier?
Fred
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
On Feb 20, 2012, at 10:21 PM, William McClellan wrote:
> Probably the best answer is, "it depends". Any of your pre-molded
> parts that have the green/tan factory gelcoat also has some amount
> of mold release that has to be sanded off so it is safe to say you
> should sand the whole plane surface and apply your primer. It might
> be a little picky but the gelcoat provides not structural benefit
> but does add weight. It goes without saying, you can sand the
> gelcoat but not any of the thin layer of glass layup. What ever
> filler you used first, maybe Superfil, is the rough fill, likely
> with many pin holes.
Bill...thanks for your detailed response.
I agree w/ you about removing most of the gelcoat...carefully...and
yes, I used Superfil, and yes, I have my share of pin holes. John
Lawton is a fan of "3M flowable finishing putty" for taking care of
pinholes. BTW, did you try any of the "Prep Wipe" rather than Acetone
to clean surfaces prior to applying the Smooth Prime?
Fred
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
Fred,
I used smooth prime along with their recommended prep wipe product. I had
good success.
Paul
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
Fred,
No I did not use the PrepWipe because I found I could do without it, that a final
finish sanding worked equally well, maybe better. To emphasize, as it would
seem intuitively obvious, the surface you end up painting must be free of contamination.
Some additional thoughts. Obviously there are several ways to skin this cat, many
will work and some will prove not compatible. Some basics that spread across
all the different methods or systems. Be very careful and knowing if you
want to mix or apply different products and particularly, if you want to apply
one product on part of the plane and some other product on another part. When
you paint over the intersection between multiple products the paint will flow
at least a little differently at this junction and show in the final product.
So it is fair to say that your undercoat primer, whether using SmoothPrime
or something else, it would be safest to have that product consistent and covering
the whole part being painted. This means that its not favorable to be painting
over a mixture of areas of primer, some areas of raw fiberglass layup and
some areas of another filler. When you have your plane all primed and sanded,
looking rather good, then you paint it and the finished glossy shinny paint
now reveals many imperfections you couldn't see on the sanded or primed under
surface. There are many areas where the sub surface has differences, seams,
joints, and non uniform layup thickness that will now be evident with the nice
glossy paint finish. A common place to see this is where a substructure member
is, like ribs, or the fuselage top to bottom seams, etc.
With the SmoothPrime you will likely sand off 50% or even 75% of an applied sandable
primer in getting it right, that is the reason for the multiple gallons
of SmoothPrime I suggest you will need. Make very sure you use a "long board"
and sand with long broad strokes. Force yourself to use as little short and
localized sanding strokes as you can. Yes there are some complex curve area you
will have to deal with where long sanding strokes won't work.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
>From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
>Sent: Feb 21, 2012 7:42 AM
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
>
>
>
>On Feb 20, 2012, at 10:21 PM, William McClellan wrote:
>
>> Probably the best answer is, "it depends". Any of your pre-molded
>> parts that have the green/tan factory gelcoat also has some amount
>> of mold release that has to be sanded off so it is safe to say you
>> should sand the whole plane surface and apply your primer. It might
>> be a little picky but the gelcoat provides not structural benefit
>> but does add weight. It goes without saying, you can sand the
>> gelcoat but not any of the thin layer of glass layup. What ever
>> filler you used first, maybe Superfil, is the rough fill, likely
>> with many pin holes.
>
>Bill...thanks for your detailed response.
>
>I agree w/ you about removing most of the gelcoat...carefully...and
>yes, I used Superfil, and yes, I have my share of pin holes. John
>Lawton is a fan of "3M flowable finishing putty" for taking care of
>pinholes. BTW, did you try any of the "Prep Wipe" rather than Acetone
>to clean surfaces prior to applying the Smooth Prime?
>
>Fred
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re : Smooth Prime |
Hi Fred,
I did my whole plane with Smooth Prime. I found it very easy to apply
with a small diameter foam roller and small plastic paint tray.
Instructions are at http://www.polyfiber.com/uvsmooth/
I did the 3 coats and sanded down with 320 grit. Sanded down again with
320 after another 3 coats. Sanding of Smooth Prime to get a good finish
is very easy. As I remember the dilution, if any, was as specified on
the can. I sprayed Aerothane topcoat after this with good results. I
understand that some have had problems with the topcoat possibly due to
inadequate drying of the water based Smooth Prime. Instructions are very
clear that it should be left for 3 weeks to dry. Poly Fiber now
recommend sealing the Smooth Prime with epoxy primer. I did not do this
as it was not specified when I did the job.
Re quantity, I do not remember. Suggest you start with 1 gallon and see
how you get on.
Cheers, John
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
From: Fred Klein<fklein@orcasonline.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...Have you used it
JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the ENTIRE airframe?
In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE (undiluted)
COATS before sanding?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Smooth Prime |
John et al,
I did my trigear in Smooth Prime for all the positives that have already
been stated. I then had the aircraft professionally painted (rather than
by me) and after 5 years I am still very happy with the results. However
one other UK builder has not had such a good result with the same Smooth
Prime and same painter although it is being rectified in good order.
I was always told that damp was the main problem with the Poly Fiber
system ie it has to be absolutely dry before top coating and I know that
mine went into a newly built oven on a low heat after having 'cured' in
my garage for a couple of years after I painted the primer on.
I was interested to hear that the recommendation is now to seal with an
epoxy primer and I can see the logic but who does it - the builder or
the painter and does the primer also need sanding down.
At the end of the day you pays your money and ........
As I said I was delighted with my aircraft finish and would recommend
Smooth Prime again with the caveat.
Regards
Steve Pitt
G-SMDH
Trigear XS 912S
----- Original Message -----
From: John Wigney
To: Fred Klein ; Europa-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 4:55 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re : Smooth Prime
Hi Fred,
I did my whole plane with Smooth Prime. I found it very easy to apply
with a small diameter foam roller and small plastic paint tray.
Instructions are at http://www.polyfiber.com/uvsmooth/
I did the 3 coats and sanded down with 320 grit. Sanded down again
with 320 after another 3 coats. Sanding of Smooth Prime to get a good
finish is very easy. As I remember the dilution, if any, was as
specified on the can. I sprayed Aerothane topcoat after this with good
results. I understand that some have had problems with the topcoat
possibly due to inadequate drying of the water based Smooth Prime.
Instructions are very clear that it should be left for 3 weeks to dry.
Poly Fiber now recommend sealing the Smooth Prime with epoxy primer. I
did not do this as it was not specified when I did the job.
Re quantity, I do not remember. Suggest you start with 1 gallon and
see how you get on.
Cheers, John
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
To those of you who have used Smooth Prime on their Europa XS...Have you
used it JUST on the filled/foam control surfaces?...or on the ENTIRE
airframe?
In either case, how much material is necessary for the required THREE
(undiluted) COATS before sanding?
Thanks in advance,
Fred
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: EuropaOwners Move |
Well said Bob.
I also wish Jos all the best in his retirment and thanks for providing his
computing hardware to the community at no charge to us. I for one
have fond the pictures on there to be a great deal of help and entertainment !
And thank you Steve for continuing to support the site, much appreciated,
I for one know that computing and site upkeep is very time consuming,
Steve.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=366873#366873
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday cage |
effect paint
All,=0A-=0AMetal aircraft benefit from the Faraday cage effect , as the s
trike tracks across the surface of the airframe and exits through a point o
n opposite surface.=0A-=0AWhy can we not have a layer of conductive paint
to create a Faraday cage-?=0A-=0AThe top most layer would be easiest f
or electrical conductivity, but base coats would do-a similar-job in pr
otecting the airframe below.=0A-=0ASeems others have used this technique
before -http://www.aztechnology.com/PDFs/materials-catalog.pdf=0A-=0AI go
t to thinking what protected the wooden gliders soaring Cu-nims in early da
ys of soaring ?=0A-=0ACould it have been the aluminium powder in the dope
( used in base coats to protect the cotton fabric-and wood from UV damag
e) therefore creating a Faraday cage ?=0A-=0AConstructive thoughts please
..=0A-=0AKevin Burns=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: K
BURNS <kjburns@btinternet.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-l
ist@matronics.com> =0ASent: Tuesday, 21 February 2012, 0:19=0ASubject: Re:
Europa-List: Re : Lightning Strike=0A =0A=0AMeet the guys that had to bail
out of the K 21 Glider :-=0A-=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeLl_Cl
xf1g=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: John Wigney <johnwi
gney@windstream.net>=0ATo: martflynut@aol.com; Europa-List <europa-list@mat
ronics.com> =0ASent: Tuesday, 14 February 2012, 15:52=0ASubject: Europa-Lis
t: Re : Lightning Strike=0A =0A=0AHi Martin,=0A=0AYou may have heard this
before but for small planes, the conventional wisdom in the US is to stay a
minimum of 20 miles from a thunderstorm. This might seem a long way but I
am pretty sure it was developed at the school of hard knocks.=0A=0AIn poor
weather afew years ago in Arkansas, I inadvertently strayed much closer and
was startled with a large lightning bolt much too close for comfort. Once
is enough; I try not to repeat that. =0A=0ACheers, John=0AN262WF, mono XS,
912S=0AMooresville, North Carolina=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A_________________________
_______=0A =0ASubject: Europa-List: Lightning Strike=0AFrom: "Martin Ollive
r" <martflynut@aol.com> Hi All. Has anyone experienced a lightning strike i
n a Europa? If not what is the=0Aperceived result of such a strike? A few y
ears ago in the south of England=0Aa plastic glider was struck and broke up
in flight both occupants survived as=0Aparachutes were deployed. A luxury
I am unable to have due to size issues (not=0Asaying I am fat just well bui
lt!) My concern with the Europa is the lack of bonding=0Abetween components
and conductors to ensure components don't explode apart,=0Aas happened wit
h the glider. If as I suspect we all take a risk with this issue has any on
e considered any=0Apossible remedial action to improve the situation?=0AMar
tin. =0A=0Ahttp://www=================
=====================
Message 15
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| Subject: | Running fuel lines and main electrics |
Hi All,
I am about to fix my fuel lines for my Tri gear and wondered if anyone would share
a few hints or photos on their way to run the fuel line and the fuel return
line through the tunnel, fire wall etc. Photos would be of great help.
I also would like to see a bit about how every one has planned to run the main
power cables from the battery in the back to the master relay and forward.
I am looking for clever ways to do this and I hope you can help me out?
All the best,
Allan Skanderup Nielsen
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday |
cage effect paint
On 02/21/2012 10:36 PM, K BURNS wrote:
> Metal aircraft benefit from the Faraday cage effect , as the strike
> tracks across the surface of the airframe and exits through a point on
> opposite surface.
>
> Why can we not have a layer of conductive paint to create a Faraday cage ?
Simply because the current of a lightning strike exceeds the conductive
capability of just a layer of paint.
Or more technical speaking: electrical power in Watts is voltage times
current. W=V*A. Voltage depends on current and resistance. (Ohms law,
U=I*R, Voltage is current times resistance).
So, the heat dissipated in the conductive layer depends on the current
(force of the strike) and the resistance of the conductive layer. For
paint this resistance is fairly high, so the heat generated in this
layer will be more than the paint or its carrier can handle. It will
evaporate instantly and so does the wing that carries this layer.
Frans
Message 17
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Nobody who replaced these hoses?
>> I just started the annual check. I noticed that the hose that connects
>> the two tank outlets with the outleg sockets has deteriorated.
>> Has anyone found a better material for this purpose than just rubber hose?
>>
>> What about the oil grade silicone hoses? Would that stand ethanol
>> blended fuel?
>>
>> Can anyone confirm that the hose required has an inner diameter of 25mm
>> (1 inch)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Frans
Message 18
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Fred,
I had a dehumidifier that ran in the workshop more or less constantly. RH
was always below 50%.
All normal precautions taken with the Smooth Prime, plus roller-applied and
ensuring that it was never wet-sanded.
In my view, the talc content is too high (which makes it easy to sand and
smooth to the touch), but adds weight and absorbs water.
Anyway, most of the Smooth Prime was sanded off; I only bought one pot and
it was used primarily to get rid of pin holes and (by coincidence not
design) most areas had an aerospace quality epoxy primer applied on top,
which was less expensive too and in future I'll use that. Pity I bought-in
to the Polyfiber hype about pinhole filling; it wasn't any better at that
anyway (if applied with a roller).
Oh well, refinishing the 'plane will give me something to do in retirement!
Rgds.,
Duncan.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 21 February 2012 15:24
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Smooth Prime
On Feb 21, 2012, at 1:07 AM, Duncan & Ami wrote:
> used Smooth Prime only on those surface that had a problem with pin
> holes,
> which was mostly the wet-layup flying surfaces.
> Everywhere that I used it there is now a problem (starting to
> manifest at
> about 5 years age, now at 11 years) with microblistering. Others
> experienced
> worse.
> In other areas I used an epoxy solvent-based primer filler.
Duncan...thank you very much for relating your experiences...hmmmmm.
When reading the info on Smooth Prime, I notice an emphasis on the
need to thoroughly remove all moisture from the sanded, smooth-primed
components with a dehumidifier before sealing the surfaces. Do you
recall whether or not you used a dehumidifier?
Fred
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Re : Lightning Strike-possible protection ? Faraday cage |
effect paint
An interesting thought process Kevin and coincidentally, the same
path that the designers of the =9CHindenburg=9D followed, reaso
ning
that it would give the envelope protection from lightening and UV
damage. What they failed to appreciate was that that the aluminium
oxide based paint they chose to use was also highly inflammable. It
is now widely believed that it was a lightning strike that ignited
the painted fabric as the Hindenburg docked at Lakehurst. Admittedly,
your Europa might not be filled with hydrogen, but resulting
pyrotechnics would be something to behold!
Nigel
On 21/02/2012 21:36, K BURNS wrote: All, Metal aircraft benefit
from the Faraday cage effect , as the strike tracks across the surface
of the airframe and exits through a point on opposite surface. Why
can we not have a layer of conductive paint to create a Faraday cage
? The top most layer would be easiest for electrical conductivity,
but base coats would do a similar job in protecting the airframe
below. Seems others have used this technique before
-http://www.aztechnology.com/PDFs/materials-catalog.pdf I got to
thinking what protected the wooden gliders soaring Cu-nims in early
days of soaring ? Could it have been the aluminium powder in the
dope ( used in base coats to protect the cotton fabric and wood from
UV damage) therefore creating a Faraday cage ? Constructive
thoughts please.. Kevin Burns
FROM: K BURNS BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica,
sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Message 20
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| Subject: | Europas in the UK |
I am still in discussion with the Norwegian CAA regarding their ban on
flying at night or in IMC with Norwegian registered Experimental class
aircraft (just entered the 4th year, their response time is sloooow).
The ban is imposed on all of the aircrafts by conditions in the permits to
fly, but according to the best legal expertise, it is not legal to impose
such a ban generally unless it is made part of the formal aviation
regulations. If not in the regulations, each individual aircraft must be
considered on its own merits before placing such restrictions on it. Our
CAA says that they have considered each, which is b.s.
In support of my line of argument (that each aircraft must be considered
individually), I would very much appreciate information on the following:
- Approx. how many Europas are flying in the UK?
- How many accumulated flight hours?
- How many hours on the aircraft having flown the most? Which
engine does it have?
The reason for asking only about UK statistics is that our CAA is looking
more to what the UK does than other countries. By the way, any development
in the PFA regarding this issue - there was some discussion about this a few
years ago, wasn't it?
I have looked through all the reports on the 84 Europa accidents in the UK
AAIB web site - nothing there to support that a correctly built Europa with
912ULS is likely to have an engine problem!
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
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