Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:00 AM - Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Max Cointe)
2. 03:39 AM - Re: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brushes (G-IANI)
3. 05:06 AM - mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly (Rowland Carson)
4. 07:14 AM - Re: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Raimo Toivio)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
6. 08:18 AM - SV: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
7. 09:12 AM - Re: mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly (G-IANI)
8. 11:48 AM - landing gear frame geometry (Rowland Carson)
9. 11:59 AM - Re: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Bob Harrison)
10. 12:20 PM - SV: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
11. 01:13 PM - Re: landing gear frame geometry (Neville Eyre)
12. 01:23 PM - Re: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes (Bob Harrison)
13. 02:26 PM - Re: landing gear frame geometry (Tony Renshaw)
14. 02:30 PM - Re: landing gear frame geometry (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
15. 02:32 PM - Re: landing gear frame geometry (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
16. 07:33 PM - Re: Trailer (phillik747)
17. 09:01 PM - Re: landing gear frame geometry (Bob Harrison)
Message 1
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Hi There All,
According to the Airmaster maintenance manual (see above) the brushes should
be replaced when. they are used! Has anybody an idea of their life-time? We
have nowadays 425 hours (and close to periodic 100) with original brushes
and I'd like to avoid unplug them just to verify.
Thanks for every answer.
Section 11.3.2. Replacement of Slip-Ring Brushes
The sensor/brush assembly brushes that run on the slip-ring will
progressively wear down, as they
act on the slip-rings. Once they have become so worn that the spring behind
them is at full
extension, they will no longer have good contact with the slip-ring. This
may be observed during
an inspection of the propeller, or may become apparent as a result of an
open circuit failure of the
pitch change mechanism (indicated by all three controller indicators
flashing red).
Rgds
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 420 hours
<mailto:mcointe@free.fr> mcointe@free.fr
Message 2
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brushes |
Max
At 300 hours the Airmaster controller on G-IANI indicated an open circuit
(all three controller indicators flashing red). After unbolting the brush
unit from the gearbox it was apparent that the middle brush had worn down to
the point were it no longer contacted the slip ring. The other two brushes
appeared to be about half worn. I could not find any rough area on the
middle ring which would explain why one brush had worn more than the other
two.
I replaced the brush (with the spare provided with the prop) which involves
dismantling the brush unit and soldering in the new brush. I have recently
(at 360 hours) removed the bush unit and checked the brushes. The middle
brush shows no sign of a high wear rate. The other two brushes show little
additional wear and I estimate will last to about 800 hours total time.
I contacted Martin at Airmaster to discus this failure. He told me that
this does occasionally happen. Airmaster has the brushes manufactured to a
specification but they have no way of checking individual brushes for its
wear characteristics. So unfortunately some brushes are slightly softer and
wear more rapidly. If you know what to look for you can spot this as more
black dust will be around the slip rings and hub.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 3
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Subject: | mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly |
I recall that a long time ago someone (perhaps Graham Singleton) posted a method
of making the layup to connect the top end of bulkhead that provides the mass
balance stops and the pitch pushrod containment to the fuselage top. The principle
was to make some sort of splash moulding, if I remember rightly, before
bonding on the fuselage top moulding. I thought at the time it seemed a great
idea and I thought I'd remember how to fetch it up again.
However, despite searching through all the available e-mail list archives, I don't
seem to be able to hit on the right keyword(s) to bring up that posting.
I did find something by Dave Simpson on 28 Jan 2002, but that isn't quite what
I am looking for as it appears to be applicable _after_ the top is on.
Can anyone point me to the source of this? Any clues welcome - who proposed it,
when was it posted, or the full text if you have it available.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Max
After three years /160 hrs trouble free service I removed the brush box
to verify unused lenght of the brushes. I compared them to new ones.
There was still 2/3 to go (= useful lenght) in every brush. So I
suppose it would be a good time to change them for new in F-PMLH=C2=B4s
case!
I do remember Airmaster-Martin estimated me they will last typically at
least 300 hrs. That is well inline.
BTW it was a minor 20 minutes task to take it (a slip ring brush box, it
is not necessary to open it!) away, verify and instal back (safety
wireing takes some time). Will do it every 50 hrs or so in future.
***
This was also very first time I removed also the blades to service the
blade bearings and the hub internal parts (yes =93 I know
Airmaster Service Manual call it to do first 25 hrs, 50 hrs, 100 hrs and
then every single 100 hrs). I have to say it looked a new like. Also
that red grease looked fresh and totally undirty. Anyway I removed all
grease and did all the tasks as per manual. That took a whole day long
but maybe I was extra careful /concerned. I feel it is better to do
seldom and as well as you can (if there are no marks of problems) than
often and a bit hurry. Grease I used was Aeroshell 22.
Cheers, Raimo Toivio
Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417
Updated flight hours /landings: 258,15 /466
37500 Lempaala
FINLAND
p +358-3-3753 777
f +358-3-3753 100
toivio@fly.to
www.rwm.fi
From: Max Cointe
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:59 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes
Hi There All,
According to the Airmaster maintenance manual (see above) the brushes
should be replaced when they are used! Has anybody an idea of
their life-time? We have nowadays 425 hours (and close to periodic 100)
with original brushes and I=99d like to avoid unplug them just to
verify.
Thanks for every answer.
Section 11.3.2. Replacement of Slip-Ring Brushes
The sensor/brush assembly brushes that run on the slip-ring will
progressively wear down, as they
act on the slip-rings. Once they have become so worn that the spring
behind them is at full
extension, they will no longer have good contact with the slip-ring.
This may be observed during
an inspection of the propeller, or may become apparent as a result of an
open circuit failure of the
pitch change mechanism (indicated by all three controller indicators
flashing red).
Rgds
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 420 hours
mcointe@free.fr
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly |
Rowland=0Ahave a look at these pix. Tempo attach the splash mouldings with
the top clecoed on then finish the assembly with the top off.=0AGraham=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcars
on@gmail.com>=0ATo: Europa e-mail list list <europa-list@matronics.com> =0A
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 13:05=0ASubject: Europa-List: mass balance
stop and pushrod containment assembly=0A =0A--> Europa-List message posted
by: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>=0A=0AI recall that a long time
ago someone (perhaps Graham Singleton) posted a method of making the layup
to connect the top end of bulkhead that provides the mass balance stops an
d the pitch pushrod containment to the fuselage top. The principle was to m
ake some sort of splash moulding, if I remember rightly, before bonding on
the fuselage top moulding. I thought at the time it seemed a great idea and
I thought I'd remember how to fetch it up again.=0A=0AHowever, despite sea
rching through all the available e-mail list archives, I don't seem to be a
ble to hit on the right keyword(s) to bring up that posting.=0A=0AI did fin
d something by Dave Simpson on 28 Jan 2002, but that isn't quite what I am
looking for as it appears to be applicable _after_ the top is on.=0A=0ACan
anyone point me to the source of this? Any clues welcome - who proposed it,
when was it posted, or the full text if you have it available.=0A=0Ain fri
endship=0A=0ARowland=0A=0A| Rowland Carson- - - - - ... that's Ro
wland with a 'w' ...=0A| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>- - - - - - h
ttp://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk=0A| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson- -
- Facebook: Rowland Carson=0A| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowl
====================
Message 6
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Max,
My first set of brushes lasted only 110 hours, then all three were worn out
- got the fault indication on the controller panel. Martin at Airmaster
said it was maybe a bit short even for a new prop, but shorter than normal
should be expected due to new slip rings.
"New" is a relative term - the brushes and rings were unused when the hours
started counting, but they had both been manufactured some 5 years earlier.
Whether this played any role, I don't know.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 7
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Subject: | mass balance stop and pushrod containment assembly |
Rowland
I have the pictures (similar to what Graham has sent) for what you want
ready to go up on the web site. They really need a written description of
the method which I have not yet had time to write but I will get them in as
soon as I can.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 8
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Subject: | landing gear frame geometry |
I've made a big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear frame
(LG01/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. That calls
for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between 1mm &
3mm from the vertical face of the firewall.
After some fettling of the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in without too
much effort, but when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how far
away the relevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top tube
is too far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is almost
touching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from the firewall
at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand coming a little
closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much parallel to the firewall.
The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a dolly that provides support
for the curve of the underside and I have not observed any measurable twist
in it.
I took the LG frame out and checked the parallelism of the tubes in question by
laying a steel flat diagonally across (the piece I had wasn't long enough to
stretch from side to side or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4 of
the combinations. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tubes are
about a degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are about
half a degree different from each other.
Is this significant? Should I ask for a replacement LG frame?
My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, would be to try setting the alignment
with the swinging arm LG02 fitted temporarily, and accept whatever misalignment
the tubes have with the firewall.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
Message 9
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Hi! Svein and all CS /Inflight variable props.
When I had my MT CS prop it was necessary for me to fabricate my own bracket
to hold the brush holder in place to mate with the slip rings.
The major requirement of adjustment if I recall correctly was that the
brushes should be at a 2 degree "Trailing" attitude( with no tolerances
applicable) to the direction of rotation and exactly on the centre line.
(It was completely unacceptable that there should be any leading/"Pushing"
angle)
I would expect that MT are one of the most experienced producers of this
type of Propeller and would never attempt to contradict their design wishes.
Hope this information helps you not forgetting that the actual measurement
of the dimension as small as that is quite a trial of competence of the
average builder.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Now with Rotax 914 and Woodcomp SR 3000. ( with one
brush replaced ) since new but last season was given a works refurb in Cech
.at 300 hours approx.
When I've time I will do some hour calcs.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sidsel & Svein
Johnsen
Sent: 18 April 2012 16:17
Subject: SV: Europa-List: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes
Max,
My first set of brushes lasted only 110 hours, then all three were worn out
- got the fault indication on the controller panel. Martin at Airmaster
said it was maybe a bit short even for a new prop, but shorter than normal
should be expected due to new slip rings.
"New" is a relative term - the brushes and rings were unused when the hours
started counting, but they had both been manufactured some 5 years earlier.
Whether this played any role, I don't know.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 10
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Hi Bob,
Appreciate your comments regarding correct installation of the brushes
relative to the rings.
My Airmaster was delivered with a brush bracket for Rotax 912ULS. The
holes matched exactly the holes on the left side of the gearbox, and the
distance to the slip rings looks right (small unsupported length of the
brushes sticking out, yet clearance to avoid the bracket touching the
rings).
Regards
Svein
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: landing gear frame geometry |
Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into th
e tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them
to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bu
shes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the
firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame b
ack so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lowe
r tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:48
Subject: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
I've made a big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear f
rame
LG01/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. That
alls for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between 1m
m &
mm from the vertical face of the firewall.
After some fettling of the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in without
too
uch effort, but when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how far
way the relevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top tub
e is
oo far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is almos
t
ouching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from the
irewall at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand coming a
ittle closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much parallel to
the
irewall. The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a dolly that provides
upport for the curve of the underside and I have not observed any measurabl
e
wist in it.
I took the LG frame out and checked the parallelism of the tubes in questio
n by
aying a steel flat diagonally across (the piece I had wasn't long enough to
tretch from side to side or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4
of
he combinations. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tubes
are
bout a degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are abo
ut
alf a degree different from each other.
Is this significant? Should I ask for a replacement LG frame?
My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, would be to try setting the
lignment with the swinging arm LG02 fitted temporarily, and accept whatever
isalignment the tubes have with the firewall.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
<rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
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Message 12
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Subject: | Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes |
Hi! Svein ,
I would still prefer to measure the actual angles and especially prove them
to be "trailing "
Regards
Bob H
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sidsel & Svein
Johnsen
Sent: 18 April 2012 20:20
Subject: SV: Europa-List: Airmaster AP332: replacement of slip ring brishes
Hi Bob,
Appreciate your comments regarding correct installation of the brushes
relative to the rings.
My Airmaster was delivered with a brush bracket for Rotax 912ULS. The
holes matched exactly the holes on the left side of the gearbox, and the
distance to the slip rings looks right (small unsupported length of the
brushes sticking out, yet clearance to avoid the bracket touching the
rings).
Regards
Svein
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: landing gear frame geometry |
Reference the landing gear frame, I recall making up a redux flox mix and be
dding in the tubes, so that the load were better distributed. I intend on pl
ugging the ends, probably with timber dowels prior to drilling and final att
achment, so I can tighten the bolts fully without deforming the tubes, plus a
lso it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel area.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 19/04/2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.co.uk> wrote:
> Hi Rowland,
> Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into t
he tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them
to the aft of the tubes]
> Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin b
ushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the
firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame ba
ck so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
> The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the low
er tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>
> To: Europa e-mail list list <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:48
> Subject: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
>
>
>
> I've made a big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear f
rame
> (LG01/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. Tha
t
> calls for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between 1
mm &
> 3mm from the vertical face of the firewall.
>
> After some fettling of the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in withou
t too
> much effort, but when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how f
ar
> away the relevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top t
ube is
> too far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is alm
ost
> touching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from the
> firewall at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand coming a
> little closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much parallel t
o the
> firewall. The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a dolly that provides
> support for the curve of the underside and I have not observed any measura
ble
> twist in it.
>
> I took the LG frame out and checked the parallelism of the tubes in questi
on by
> laying a steel flat diagonally across (the piece I had wasn't long enough t
o
> stretch from side to side or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4
of
> the combinations. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tube
s are
> about a degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are a
bout
> half a degree different from each other.
>
> Is this significant? Should I ask for a replacement LG frame?
>
> My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, would be to try setting the
> alignment with the swinging arm LG02 fitted temporarily, and accept whatev
er
> misalignment the tubes have with the firewall.
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
>
>
>
> arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: landing gear frame geometry |
Nev=0Acould I add " make sure the top tube is far enough from the firewall
to allow the shock cord to go through easily" or isn't that=0Aa problem?=0A
regards=0AGraham=0Aprobably bump into you next week! (unless you see me fir
st! -!:-)=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Neville Eyre
<neveyre@aol.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, 18
April 2012, 21:10=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
=0A =0A=0AHi Rowland,=0ACut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long
, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL fra
me tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]=0ACheck that the lower-
U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straig
ht edge / level set on the pins-[slot the holes in the firewall to achiev
e this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the
two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.=0AThe frame tube geometry is
all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two ve
rtical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.=0ACheers,=0ANev.
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: landing gear frame geometry |
Tony=0Abetter to plug with thick wall 4130 tube imho=0Aregards=0AGraham=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw26
8@gmail.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com>
=0ASent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 22:24=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: landin
g gear frame geometry=0A =0A=0AReference the landing gear frame, I recall m
aking up a redux flox mix and bedding in the tubes, so that the load were b
etter distributed. I intend on plugging the ends, probably with timber dowe
ls prior to drilling and final attachment, so I can tighten the bolts fully
without deforming the tubes, plus also it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel
area.=0ARegards-=0ATony Renshaw-=0A=0ASent from my iPad=0A=0AOn 19/04/
2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.co.uk> wrote:=0A=0A=0AHi Rowlan
d,=0A>Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame i
nto the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tap
e them to the aft of the tubes]=0A>Check that the lower- U/C frame mounti
ng tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level s
et on the pins-[slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick
/ whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that i
s where you drill / bolt it.=0A>The frame tube geometry is all over the pla
ce, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8
'' off the firewall.=0A>Cheers,=0A>Nev.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>-----Original Messag
e-----=0A>From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>=0A>To: Europa e-ma
il list list <europa-list@matronics.com>=0A>Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:48=0A
>Subject: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry=0A>=0A>=0A>--> Europa-Li
st message posted by: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> I've made a
big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear frame =0A(LG0
1/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. That =0A
calls for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between 1
mm & =0A3mm from the vertical face of the firewall. After some fettling of
the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in without too =0Amuch effort, bu
t when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how far =0Aaway the r
elevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top tube is =0At
oo far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is almos
t =0Atouching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from t
he =0Afirewall at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand com
ing a =0Alittle closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much p
arallel to the =0Afirewall. The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a do
lly that provides =0Asupport for the curve of the underside and I have not
observed any measurable =0Atwist in it. I took the LG frame out and checked
the parallelism of the tubes in question by =0Alaying a steel flat diagona
lly across (the piece I had wasn't long enough to =0Astretch from side to s
ide or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4 of =0Athe combination
s. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tubes are =0Aabout a
degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are about =0A
half a degree different from each other. Is this significant? Should I ask
for a replacement LG frame? My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, w
ould be to try setting the =0Aalignment with the swinging arm LG02 fitted t
emporarily, and accept whatever =0Amisalignment the tubes have with the fir
ewall. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland w
ith a 'w' ...=0A| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
s: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson arget=_blank>http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.matronics.com=0Ablank>http://www
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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Message 16
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I'd be interested in this. Please send to helperpsp at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=371236#371236
Message 17
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Subject: | landing gear frame geometry |
Hi! All.......................and use suitably sized saddle washers under
the nuts of any bolts that are tightened up on the tubes.!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: 18 April 2012 22:31
Subject: Re: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
Tony
better to plug with thick wall 4130 tube imho
regards
Graham
_____
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 22:24
Subject: Re: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
Reference the landing gear frame, I recall making up a redux flox mix and
bedding in the tubes, so that the load were better distributed. I intend on
plugging the ends, probably with timber dowels prior to drilling and final
attachment, so I can tighten the bolts fully without deforming the tubes,
plus also it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel area.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 19/04/2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.co.uk> wrote:
Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the
tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to
the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin
bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in
the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame
back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower
tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 19:48
Subject: Europa-List: landing gear frame geometry
<mailto:rowlandcarson@gmail..com> >
I've made a big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear
frame
(LG01/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. That
calls for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between
1mm &
3mm from the vertical face of the firewall.
After some fettling of the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in without
too
much effort, but when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how far
away the relevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top
tube is
too far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is
almost
touching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from the
firewall at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand coming a
little closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much parallel to
the
firewall. The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a dolly that provides
support for the curve of the underside and I have not observed any
measurable
twist in it.
I took the LG frame out and checked the parallelism of the tubes in question
by
laying a steel flat diagonally across (the piece I had wasn't long enough to
stretch from side to side or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4
of
the combinations. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tubes
are
about a degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are
about
half a degree different from each other.
Is this significant? Should I ask for a replacement LG frame?
My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, would be to try setting the
alignment with the swinging arm LG02 fitted temporarily, and accept whatever
misalignment the tubes have with the firewall.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson .... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
<http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/>
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
p://forums.matronics.com
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