Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:49 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (Carl Meek)
2. 02:20 AM - ULpowered Europa (Groups)
3. 02:25 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
4. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
5. 08:23 AM - Re: Rivet tail interference inside CS05 torque tube (Andrew Sarangan)
6. 08:31 AM - RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (ploucandco)
7. 04:15 PM - AW: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (UVTREITH)
8. 06:53 PM - For UK and European Europa Flyers ....................Wickenby Wings and Wheels Airshow and Fly In 2012. (Bob Harrison)
9. 07:25 PM - Fw: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (Bud Yerly)
10. 07:48 PM - Re: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (Robert Borger)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Contact detail & Help |
Hi Bud,
I would love to hear what you have to say on the Jabiru, my engineer is
about to start modifications to the cowl, cylinder baffles, etc =AD our goal
is to try and improve CHT temperatures. While we're at it, I'd also like t
o
try and lean the engine and get some better economy, mine is a guzzler.
I've already chatted with various people, including Doug at Jabiru, and I
personally feel that my own aircraft's solutions are (a) sealing off oil
cooler to prevent airflow entering the lower cowl and (b) putting a lip on
the front of the cowl exit in order to help with the exit of air entering
the main 2 holes by the prop. However my engineer (who is a fluid dynamics
expert) disagrees with this approach and doesn't feel it will work - I need
to get more information from him on why. In photographs of my aircraft in
the flare, a similar attitude to a climb, you can see how forward airflow
enters the bottom of the cowl, so to me it looks a no-brainer that we need
a
lip.
Regards,
-Carl.
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help
Ken and Graham,
I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa
Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .
If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree
summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze. Judging by the calls and email succes
s
stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.
References for further study are at the end of the document.
Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems
cooling especially with the trigear. In fact it gets a bit too cool in
cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, onl
y
treating the airflow around the coolers.
I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished
three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab
3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable
except taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too
hot for a takeoff on a summer day.
I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.
Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more
specifics or are having problems getting the references on line.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
US Europa Dealer
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com <http://www.customflightcreations.com>
(813) 653-4989
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <mailto:grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
> To: ken@ardenrich.co.uk ; europa-list@matronics.com
>
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2012 6:48 AM
>
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help
>
>
>
>
> Ken
>
> the two people I know who've done most research on the cooling of Europa
s,
> with some success, are
>
> PaulMcAllister <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>; FransVeldman
> <frans@privatepilots.nl>;
>
> Both have the XS installation, not Classic.
>
> Link to the forum is <europa-list@matronics.com>;
>
> Graham
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "ken@ardenrich.co.uk" <ken@ardenrich.co.uk>
> To: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
> Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012, 10:01
> Subject: Contact detail & Help
>
>
>
>
> Graham,
>
>
>
> The Canadian contact details;
>
>
>
> seth.g.london@ca.pwc.com
>
> Have you any chapter on verse or can could point me in the right directi
on
> where to look for the best on a/c engine cooling-cowl design principles.
>
>
>
> Also if poss could you send me the link over to get back on to the Europ
a
> Forum please
>
>
>
> All would be much appreciated,
>
>
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="h
> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 2
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Subject: | ULpowered Europa |
I ran the UL260iS yesterday, started on the first few turns. Initially had no rpm
gauge and fuel coming out of sight gauge vent due to fuel returning at 120
LPH. Stopped engine, blocked off vent (to replumb later) and adjusted smart avionics
controller tacho settings. Again ran engine but now with no fuel problems
and rpm readings. Did some more fuel flow checks with engine at 1000rpm. Once
the engine was warm I opened it to 2500rpm but chickened out going further
as the a/c felt it wanted to take off even though it was chocked, tied down and
with no wings on. Once finished drained fuel and sorted out the plumbing to
the sight gauge to stop the return fuel using that as path of least resistance.
Still got rpm gauge to get working, then some more fuel checks at full power
and then taxi tests. Next to speak to Nev about cowls.
Vince
Ps. Mark from Galaxy will hopefully YouTube the video of engine run shortly.
Sent from my iPad
On 9 Jun 2012, at 06:36, Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Vince Hi!
> Sounds like all is going well with UL install.
> I would be very happy to help with fibre glass repairs.
> I'll try and fly into Craymarsh in next few days. Have friends over from USA
on Tuesday for 3 days so it will be a week or more.
> Weather not good for fibre glassing at moment anyway. Need about 20C and reduced
humidity.
> Something that is not in abundance at moment!!
> Dont buy anything until we have discussed a course of action as I might be able
to lay my hands on some of the materials.
> See you soon.
> GH
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Contact detail & Help |
Bud=0Aapologies for forgetting to mention you! Careless, or a bit senile pe
rhaps {{:-(=0A=0AThe thing I like about Frans' and Paul's work is the attem
pt to reduce cooling drag.=0A=0Aregards=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A__________________
______________=0A From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matr
onics.com; ken@ardenrich.co.uk =0ASent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21=0ASubjec
t: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help=0A =0A=0AKen and Graham,=0AI'
ve attached my modifications and techniques briefing-used for Europa =0AC
ooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .=0AIf I do sa
y so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree =0Asummer
days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.- Judging by the calls and email =0Asuccess
stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.=0A-=0ARefer
ences for further study are at the end of the document.- =0A-=0AThose w
ho have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems =0Acoo
ling especially with the trigear.- In fact it gets a bit too cool in =0Ac
ooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only
=0Atreating the airflow around the coolers.=0AI have worked these issues o
ver the last six years and we just finished =0Athree more aircraft at the s
hop, all Rotax and we-reworked a clients Jab =0A3300, and all the Rotax's
have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except =0Ataxi times-mus
t be-short, 10 or 15 minutes max-or it gets a bit =0Atoo hot for a take
off on a summer day.- =0A-=0AI'll do another briefing/article on the Ja
biru before long.=0A-=0ACall or email me at the office in Florida below i
f you have need of more =0Aspecifics or are having problems getting the ref
erences on line.=0A-=0ARegards,=0ABud Yerly=0AEuropa Tech Support=0AUS Eu
ropa Dealer=0ACustom Flight Creations, Inc.=0Awww.customflightcreations.com
=0A(813) =0A653-4989=0A-=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: GRAHAM
SINGLETON =0A>To: ken@ardenrich.co.uk ; europa-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent:
Saturday, June 09, 2012 6:48 AM=0A>Subject: Europa-List: Re: Contact deta
il & Help=0A>=0A>=0A>Ken=0A>the two people I know who've done most resear
ch on the cooling of Europas, with some success, are-=0A>PaulMcAllister
<paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>;FransVeldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>;=0A>Bo
th have the XS installation, not Classic.=0A>Link to the forum is -<europ
a-list@matronics.com>;=0A>Graham=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>___________________________
_____=0A> From: "ken@ardenrich.co.uk" <ken@ardenrich.co.uk>=0A>To: GRAHAM S
INGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com> =0A>Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012,
10:01=0A>Subject: Contact detail & Help=0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>Graham,=0A>-=0A
>The Canadian contact details;=0A>-=0A>seth.g.london@ca.pwc.com=0A>=0A>Ha
ve you-any chapter on verse or can could point me in the right direction
-where to look-for-the best on a/c engine cooling-cowl design princi
ples.=0A>-=0A>Also if poss could you send me the link over to get back o
n to the Europa Forum please=0A>-=0A>All would be much appreciated,=0A>
-=0A>Ken=0A>-=0A>-=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http
://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">ht
tp://www.matronics.com/c
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Contact detail & Help |
Bud=0A=0Ayour- explanation of the problems is excellent. I haven't done m
uch work with Europas for years but I have =0A=0Abeen working on my Long EZ
. I can confirm that exhaust extraction is very effective. I can run full t
hrottle=0Astatic on the ground for up to ten minutes on a warm English day.
=0A=0ADo you know Steve Volovsek? I think he is based in Florida, his Long
is the one I copied, we have the same =0A=0ALycoming-engine and his cool
ing air inlets are quite small. No slipstream either when static! Have a lo
ok at the attached photos.=0AIt's worth noting that the cross sectional are
a of the gaps between the cooling fins is pretty small, the important thing
is recovering enough pressure=0Afrom the inlet ambient (total energy) pres
sure to force the air through them. Worth looking at for the Jab.=0AThe cen
ter inlet btw is to the throttle body. Total cooling air inlet is less than
30 square inches for a 160 bhp air cooled engine.=0A=0AOne thing to note,
it's important not to have hot air flowing down the side of the fuselage, i
t needs mixing with cooler air.=0A=0Aregards=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A_____________
___________________=0A From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>=0ATo: europa-list
@matronics.com; ken@ardenrich.co.uk =0ASent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21=0AS
ubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help=0A =0A=0A=0A=0AI have wo
rked these issues over the last six years and we just finished =0Athree mor
e aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we-reworked a clients Jab =0A3300,
and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except
=0Ataxi times-must be-short, 10 or 15 minutes max-or it gets a bit
=0Atoo hot for a takeoff on a summer day.- =0A-=0AI'll do another brief
ing/article on the Jabiru before long.=0A-Regards, =0ABud Yerly
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Rivet tail interference inside CS05 torque tube |
Thanks for that input. What you said makes sense. So, it would seem that
the location of the rivets is important. On the wing leveling autopilot
(Mod 75) the hole pattern for the rivets was not specified, so I think I
better make that the same as on the CS-02 fork. I am glad I asked this
question.
On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:46 AM, craig <craigb@onthenet.com.au> wrote:
> ** **
>
> I used the rivets as per the manual TLPD 424 BS to go through the CS7 into
> the CS5 tube and had no problems****
>
> With clearance of the push rod, as the rivets are on the sides allowing
> the full tube height for the push rod****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | RPM drop with a 914 above 100% |
Hello all,
Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due to the fact
that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less than 330 hours.
I already looked at the following items:
- replaced the fuel with fresh one
- fuel pressure is OK
- TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and solenoid gets
12V above 108%, so should be OK
- turbo wastegate fully closes
- air filter cleaned up
The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes have been
replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where should I specifically
need to look at the carbs?
The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from line 989.
Thanks for relevant input.
Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt
Message 7
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Subject: | RPM drop with a 914 above 100% |
Hello Jacques,
Please check the inside housing of your carburettors. It might be
possible
that small parts from the inside of the aluminium housing of the carbs
get
loose, looking like very small folio. When you increase the power of the
engine you will have more fuel flow through the carbs and these debris
folio
swim up and can close the hole of your jet orifices.
We have had that some years ago on the Demo TriGear from EA/UK. When
Andy
Draper wanted to start and increased the power, the total rpm drop
followed
some second later. To found that out by an ROTAX expert, taking about
three
hours. We assume the reason was Avgas, as the TriGear was getting Avgas
and
Mogas in a mix, depending on the availability.
Good Luck,
Bruno
-----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von
ploucandco
Gesendet: Sonntag, 10. Juni 2012 17:31
An: europa-list@matronics.com
Betreff: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100%
Hello all,
Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due to
the
fact that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less than
330
hours.
I already looked at the following items:
- replaced the fuel with fresh one
- fuel pressure is OK
- TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and
solenoid
gets 12V above 108%, so should be OK
- turbo wastegate fully closes
- air filter cleaned up
The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes
have
been replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where should I
specifically need to look at the carbs?
The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from line
989.
Thanks for relevant input.
Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt
Message 8
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Subject: | For UK and European Europa Flyers ....................Wickenby |
Wings and Wheels Airshow and Fly In 2012.
Hi! All.
Well I hope the Europa Fraternity will be showing a good turn out for our
Fathers Day Air Show at Wickenby (EGNW) this weekend 16th and 17th June. We
have a brilliant programme for both days, reflecting the fact that it is the
airfields 70th Birthday. Visiting Pilots must be in before 12.45 hours Local
all notified by Notams. For Prospective Europa aircraft I intend having
about half a dozen 25 litre measured drums of Mogas available, so if that is
the key to encourage you to come let me know should you need to have it
available. It will be at the UK pump supply price but I can not split a
measure . If we need more I will be prepared to scoot and fetch more.
Camping on the airfield is permitted but no BBQ fires ...They must be lit
on the official camping site.
Best regards
Bob Harrison GT-PTAG
Message 9
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Subject: | RPM drop with a 914 above 100% |
Jaques,
I had to remove the 914 manual from this attachment.
You probably already downloaded the 914 repair manual.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud Yerly<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2012 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100%
Jacques,
Sounds like you have an excellent knowledge of the 914 systems. I am
having a run of the same problems.
We will be putting in a product deficiency report but essentially, if
the turbo controls are all working, it is the carbs/fuel delivery.
Bob Borger is suffering through a slightly different problem but close,
as does Homer Baker, and I have two 914s that had me pulling my hair out
with similar symptoms.
Here is a summary of what to check:
If the engine starts to die as the boost comes on, most likely the carb
float bowls are leaking.
Ed and I were pulling out our hair and are going to put in a product
deficiency report. I just did a bunch of work on a 914 because the carbs
had never been rebuilt over 300 hours. We put in a carb kit and it
worked great on the ground but at altitude were not able to get it to
perform as the engine began to sag and miss.
Final answer was to soak the paper float bowl gaskets overnight to get
them to swell and seal. Then you fly away and after the engine has set
a couple weeks, the gasket dries out and the leak reappears. Rotax now
uses a rubber gasket for the bottom of the bowl, which affects the
torque on the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl, and if memory serves
the torque is low at 48 inch pounds, and the rubber gasket, once
squished, gets some gas on it then it dries out and the bowls are loose
again after setting a bit. I don't mean to sound angry, just being
frank.
As to troubleshooting:
First: I prefer to hook my computer up and check my sensors and
throttle position and waste gate operation. You should not need the
computer, you only have to check on initial power the wastegate moves
with the self test. Next check that the cable is pulled almost fully
tight at idle. Note as the throttle is moved half way up, the waste gate
cable is let out and the spring opens the gate about half way (45%
really), then at full throttle it pulls the cable back. If it does all
that, it's basically OK. If it doesn't, we need to look more.
Symptoms I have seen for fuel related problems:
Providing the idle is fine and carbs will balance:
As the engine runs up, the waste gate goes from nearly fully closed
(your cable on the waste gate servo is fully pulled) and moves at half
throttle position
to about half way. The boost kicks in and the MP goes up from about
12-14 at idle to about 30 at 4000. As the boost comes up, any leak in
the carbs or the system (all that tubing) will lean the engine out and
it will not produce power. So the RPM stagnates and the engine dies if
the boost goes up much above atmospheric.
I have only one carb leaking and it is running rough as the boost comes
on. Once the gasket gets wet, it seals up a bit and runs fine. I swear I
will proseal the carb on if the cork gasket doesn't work. If both carbs
are leaking then the engine stays fairly smooth, it just cuts out at
altitude.
Be sure to check your pressure lines on top of the engine for cuts,
leaks etc. I use a vacuum hand pump to check each system once
disconnected to its sensors of course. You don't want to break anything
or put vacuum to a pressure sender.
Next, your fuel pump or pressure regulator may be malfunctioning. Easy
to check. You have a fuel pressure gauge, you only need to get a boost
gauge or old time fuel pressure vacuum gauge combo to tee into an airbox
pressure line. If you have a split fuel differential pressure gauge you
have to unplug from the differential sender and plug into the airbox
pressure line a fuel manifold pressure gauge with up to 50 inches of
boost (2 inches HG is about 1 psi pressure), a boost gauge, or the old
time vacuum fuel pressure gauge to the airbox hose. Turn on the master
and note the static pressure of the fuel pump with engine stopped. It
should be 3.5-4 PSI minimum with the pressure regulator attached as
normal. Pinch off the fuel return line by bending it slightly and the
pump pressure should run up even to 10 or 12 PSI. Do not hold the return
hose crimped long, as you don't want to fail your regulator. If the
pressure is OK, the pump is good. Check both the main and aux pumps. If
you see no increase in pressure, it is the pump or fuel pump setup is
wrong with the check valves. Note if one or both of your carbs is
leaking fuel out of the float bowl. Next check the inside of the carb
by loosening the airbox and checking for fuel draining out of the carb
and filling the carb and airbox. If fuel is draining out when you
remove the airbox from the carb face, then your float valve seats need
to be checked.
If the checks above are OK:
If you have a low pressure accurate pressure source you can hook it to
the regulator and check it at 0-5psi and note the fuel pressure rises.
If you don't have a low pressure source then...
Start the engine and run it up and monitor the fuel pressure which is
not hooked up as a differential fuel pressure (if you have a
differential gauge it is still hooked up as above). Note as the airbox
pressure builds how the fuel pressure behaves. As the boost increases
the fuel pressure should go up about one to one. So when you see 2 psi
airbox pressure at about 34 inches MP the fuel pressure should be 6. At
full boost the fuel pressure is about 10, the airbox is about 5 psi
boost and the MP is at 40 inches. If the pressure is not rising, then
the pressure regulator has quit.
In flight symptoms of a fuel pressure regulator failure is the engine
will run fine below 30 inches on the ground, but will lean out and begin
to either loose power or cut out depending on how severe the pressure
regulator failure is. You will normally only be able to run at low
altitude and the engine does not run well above 26 inches and the
throttle will be severly reduced.
Your solenoid is easy to check on the ground by hooking up a bit of
vacuum or very slight pressure and checking the line from the starboard
airbox pressure inlet to the solenoid. Between 100% to 115%, push the
throttle up with the engine off and electrical power to the TCU and move
the throttle and observe that the solenoid opens above about 108%. Oh
by the way, this little 90 degree pressure tap sometimes gets clogged
with oil from the turbo and should be clean. When you disconnect the
line, squirt a blast of carb cleaner in the tap and make sure it is
clean.
If you just rebuilt your carbs, be sure to check you didn't
inadvertently install your Bing compensating pistons 90 degrees out.
Duh, I've seen it done when carbs are rebuilt. All it takes is on
assembly, is to put a slight turn on the needle during reassembly. Only
the rubber gasket in the top keeps those pistons in position and there
is a slot where the rubber goes in to hold the carb pistons from
rotating. I have seen the chokes installed incorrectly which leans out
the engine also.
The Rotax troubleshooting guide is nice but assumes the engine is brand
new and your airplane hookup is poorly done. Nothing on an older engine
with problems is presented, nothing to help those of us with problems
after a carb rebuild, or how to track a defective part like a bad
gasket. Just take it apart and rebuild it or buy two new carbs seems to
be the factory answer.
Go off and test that fuel system, check your TCU servo moves the
wastegate OK and you don't have any airbox leaks... Back to the carbs to
just check the rebuild you did for simple things and in your case, make
sure the float bowls are dead dry. Any wetness, you need to put in new
gaskets.
I just received cork gaskets from Bing Carbs and will put them in mine
to test, as paper gaskets are supposed to be used on the 914. I am
serious about sealing my carb gaskets if this does not work and may even
put a non rubber O ring gasket (most likely thin paper with the original
phenolic) back on the bottom.
I have always felt that if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Two very
experienced Rotax repairmen I trust, swear by rebuilding the carbs every
200 hours or if they have been sitting a while, as they are a ticking
time bomb. I now see they are right about the carbs and we do follow
these guidelines religiously. Since the service manual says to rebuild
the carbs at 200 hours I now choose to rebuild if I am within 50 hours
of 200 hours or the carbs have been sitting 6 months due to extended
down time... Ed and I can rebuild the carbs in about an hour, and
rebalance the carbs in less than 1/2 hour. The delay is in the soaking
and cleaning of the carbs once disassembled, and the soaking of the
paper gaskets. I hope the cork fixes the paper gasket problems, (or the
rubber gaskets I've heard of work out), and improves the time between
carb overhauls.
Just my procedures, I welcome other inputs for sure. We are all
exhausted down here with it on Rotax and Jabiru with Bing carbs. I
don't care if the engine was running great when it came in, if it meets
the criteria above, the carbs get rebuilt.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: ploucandco<mailto:ploucandco@YAHOO.COM>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2012 11:31 AM
Subject: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100%
<ploucandco@yahoo.com<mailto:ploucandco@yahoo.com>>
Hello all,
Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due
to the fact that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less
than 330 hours.
I already looked at the following items:
- replaced the fuel with fresh one
- fuel pressure is OK
- TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and
solenoid gets 12V above 108%, so should be OK
- turbo wastegate fully closes
- air filter cleaned up
The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes
have been replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where
should I specifically need to look at the carbs?
The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from
line 989.
Thanks for relevant input.
Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt<http://forums.matroni
cs.com//files/05301132_141.txt>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
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Subject: | Re: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% |
Bud,
I don't think you received my commentary on the nitrile gaskets. =46rom
a previous e-mailing:
FWIW, the nitrile gaskets are probably OK if you have the carb off and
are doing a rebuild. Where you can turn the carb upside down to put the
gasket in place and properly fit the bowl to the carb body without
disturbing the gasket. Otherwise they are too floppy to try and install
on the bottom in an upright carb, in amongst the exhaust manifold and
various plumbing on the aircraft. I was very careful, checked them with
a mirror for location and fit, still they moved out of position while
getting the bowls back on and tight. Ended up with both gaskets cut by
the bowl.
Also, my float bowl nut uses an O-ring and not a flat gasket. The
torque is 4 ft-lbs.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Jun 10, 2012, at 9:23 PM, Bud Yerly wrote:
=85< Snip >...
Bob Borger is suffering through a slightly different problem but close,
as does Homer Baker, and I have two 914s that had me pulling my hair out
with similar symptoms.
Here is a summary of what to check:
If the engine starts to die as the boost comes on, most likely the carb
float bowls are leaking.
Ed and I were pulling out our hair and are going to put in a product
deficiency report. I just did a bunch of work on a 914 because the carbs
had never been rebuilt over 300 hours. We put in a carb kit and it
worked great on the ground but at altitude were not able to get it to
perform as the engine began to sag and miss.
Final answer was to soak the paper float bowl gaskets overnight to get
them to swell and seal. Then you fly away and after the engine has set
a couple weeks, the gasket dries out and the leak reappears. Rotax now
uses a rubber gasket for the bottom of the bowl, which affects the
torque on the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl, and if memory serves
the torque is low at 48 inch pounds, and the rubber gasket, once
squished, gets some gas on it then it dries out and the bowls are loose
again after setting a bit. I don't mean to sound angry, just being
frank.
=85< Big Snip >...
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