---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 06/10/12: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:49 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (Carl Meek) 2. 02:20 AM - ULpowered Europa (Groups) 3. 02:25 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 4. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: Contact detail & Help (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 5. 08:23 AM - Re: Rivet tail interference inside CS05 torque tube (Andrew Sarangan) 6. 08:31 AM - RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (ploucandco) 7. 04:15 PM - AW: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (UVTREITH) 8. 06:53 PM - For UK and European Europa Flyers ....................Wickenby Wings and Wheels Airshow and Fly In 2012. (Bob Harrison) 9. 07:25 PM - Fw: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (Bud Yerly) 10. 07:48 PM - Re: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% (Robert Borger) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:49:39 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help From: Carl Meek Hi Bud, I would love to hear what you have to say on the Jabiru, my engineer is about to start modifications to the cowl, cylinder baffles, etc =AD our goal is to try and improve CHT temperatures. While we're at it, I'd also like t o try and lean the engine and get some better economy, mine is a guzzler. I've already chatted with various people, including Doug at Jabiru, and I personally feel that my own aircraft's solutions are (a) sealing off oil cooler to prevent airflow entering the lower cowl and (b) putting a lip on the front of the cowl exit in order to help with the exit of air entering the main 2 holes by the prop. However my engineer (who is a fluid dynamics expert) disagrees with this approach and doesn't feel it will work - I need to get more information from him on why. In photographs of my aircraft in the flare, a similar attitude to a climb, you can see how forward airflow enters the bottom of the cowl, so to me it looks a no-brainer that we need a lip. Regards, -Carl. From: Bud Yerly Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help Ken and Graham, I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer . If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze. Judging by the calls and email succes s stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide. References for further study are at the end of the document. Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems cooling especially with the trigear. In fact it gets a bit too cool in cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, onl y treating the airflow around the coolers. I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab 3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too hot for a takeoff on a summer day. I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long. Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more specifics or are having problems getting the references on line. Regards, Bud Yerly Europa Tech Support US Europa Dealer Custom Flight Creations, Inc. www.customflightcreations.com (813) 653-4989 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: GRAHAM SINGLETON > > To: ken@ardenrich.co.uk ; europa-list@matronics.com > > Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2012 6:48 AM > > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help > > > > > Ken > > the two people I know who've done most research on the cooling of Europa s, > with some success, are > > PaulMcAllister ; FransVeldman > ; > > Both have the XS installation, not Classic. > > Link to the forum is ; > > Graham > > > > > > > > From: "ken@ardenrich.co.uk" > To: GRAHAM SINGLETON > Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012, 10:01 > Subject: Contact detail & Help > > > > > Graham, > > > > The Canadian contact details; > > > > seth.g.london@ca.pwc.com > > Have you any chapter on verse or can could point me in the right directi on > where to look for the best on a/c engine cooling-cowl design principles. > > > > Also if poss could you send me the link over to get back on to the Europ a > Forum please > > > > All would be much appreciated, > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhr ef="h > ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:20:11 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: ULpowered Europa From: Groups I ran the UL260iS yesterday, started on the first few turns. Initially had no rpm gauge and fuel coming out of sight gauge vent due to fuel returning at 120 LPH. Stopped engine, blocked off vent (to replumb later) and adjusted smart avionics controller tacho settings. Again ran engine but now with no fuel problems and rpm readings. Did some more fuel flow checks with engine at 1000rpm. Once the engine was warm I opened it to 2500rpm but chickened out going further as the a/c felt it wanted to take off even though it was chocked, tied down and with no wings on. Once finished drained fuel and sorted out the plumbing to the sight gauge to stop the return fuel using that as path of least resistance. Still got rpm gauge to get working, then some more fuel checks at full power and then taxi tests. Next to speak to Nev about cowls. Vince Ps. Mark from Galaxy will hopefully YouTube the video of engine run shortly. Sent from my iPad On 9 Jun 2012, at 06:36, Gerry Holland wrote: > > Vince Hi! > Sounds like all is going well with UL install. > I would be very happy to help with fibre glass repairs. > I'll try and fly into Craymarsh in next few days. Have friends over from USA on Tuesday for 3 days so it will be a week or more. > Weather not good for fibre glassing at moment anyway. Need about 20C and reduced humidity. > Something that is not in abundance at moment!! > Dont buy anything until we have discussed a course of action as I might be able to lay my hands on some of the materials. > See you soon. > GH > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 02:25:14 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help Bud=0Aapologies for forgetting to mention you! Careless, or a bit senile pe rhaps {{:-(=0A=0AThe thing I like about Frans' and Paul's work is the attem pt to reduce cooling drag.=0A=0Aregards=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A__________________ ______________=0A From: Bud Yerly =0ATo: europa-list@matr onics.com; ken@ardenrich.co.uk =0ASent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21=0ASubjec t: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help=0A =0A=0AKen and Graham,=0AI' ve attached my modifications and techniques briefing-used for Europa =0AC ooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .=0AIf I do sa y so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree =0Asummer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.- Judging by the calls and email =0Asuccess stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.=0A-=0ARefer ences for further study are at the end of the document.- =0A-=0AThose w ho have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems =0Acoo ling especially with the trigear.- In fact it gets a bit too cool in =0Ac ooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only =0Atreating the airflow around the coolers.=0AI have worked these issues o ver the last six years and we just finished =0Athree more aircraft at the s hop, all Rotax and we-reworked a clients Jab =0A3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except =0Ataxi times-mus t be-short, 10 or 15 minutes max-or it gets a bit =0Atoo hot for a take off on a summer day.- =0A-=0AI'll do another briefing/article on the Ja biru before long.=0A-=0ACall or email me at the office in Florida below i f you have need of more =0Aspecifics or are having problems getting the ref erences on line.=0A-=0ARegards,=0ABud Yerly=0AEuropa Tech Support=0AUS Eu ropa Dealer=0ACustom Flight Creations, Inc.=0Awww.customflightcreations.com =0A(813) =0A653-4989=0A-=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: GRAHAM SINGLETON =0A>To: ken@ardenrich.co.uk ; europa-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2012 6:48 AM=0A>Subject: Europa-List: Re: Contact deta il & Help=0A>=0A>=0A>Ken=0A>the two people I know who've done most resear ch on the cooling of Europas, with some success, are-=0A>PaulMcAllister ;FransVeldman ;=0A>Bo th have the XS installation, not Classic.=0A>Link to the forum is -;=0A>Graham=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>___________________________ _____=0A> From: "ken@ardenrich.co.uk" =0A>To: GRAHAM S INGLETON =0A>Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012, 10:01=0A>Subject: Contact detail & Help=0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>Graham,=0A>-=0A >The Canadian contact details;=0A>-=0A>seth.g.london@ca.pwc.com=0A>=0A>Ha ve you-any chapter on verse or can could point me in the right direction -where to look-for-the best on a/c engine cooling-cowl design princi ples.=0A>-=0A>Also if poss could you send me the link over to get back o n to the Europa Forum please=0A>-=0A>All would be much appreciated,=0A> -=0A>Ken=0A>-=0A>-=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Naviga tor?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http ://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">ht tp://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:43:54 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help Bud=0A=0Ayour- explanation of the problems is excellent. I haven't done m uch work with Europas for years but I have =0A=0Abeen working on my Long EZ . I can confirm that exhaust extraction is very effective. I can run full t hrottle=0Astatic on the ground for up to ten minutes on a warm English day. =0A=0ADo you know Steve Volovsek? I think he is based in Florida, his Long is the one I copied, we have the same =0A=0ALycoming-engine and his cool ing air inlets are quite small. No slipstream either when static! Have a lo ok at the attached photos.=0AIt's worth noting that the cross sectional are a of the gaps between the cooling fins is pretty small, the important thing is recovering enough pressure=0Afrom the inlet ambient (total energy) pres sure to force the air through them. Worth looking at for the Jab.=0AThe cen ter inlet btw is to the throttle body. Total cooling air inlet is less than 30 square inches for a 160 bhp air cooled engine.=0A=0AOne thing to note, it's important not to have hot air flowing down the side of the fuselage, i t needs mixing with cooler air.=0A=0Aregards=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0A From: Bud Yerly =0ATo: europa-list @matronics.com; ken@ardenrich.co.uk =0ASent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21=0AS ubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Contact detail & Help=0A =0A=0A=0A=0AI have wo rked these issues over the last six years and we just finished =0Athree mor e aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we-reworked a clients Jab =0A3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except =0Ataxi times-must be-short, 10 or 15 minutes max-or it gets a bit =0Atoo hot for a takeoff on a summer day.- =0A-=0AI'll do another brief ing/article on the Jabiru before long.=0A-Regards, =0ABud Yerly ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:23:48 AM PST US From: Andrew Sarangan Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rivet tail interference inside CS05 torque tube Thanks for that input. What you said makes sense. So, it would seem that the location of the rivets is important. On the wing leveling autopilot (Mod 75) the hole pattern for the rivets was not specified, so I think I better make that the same as on the CS-02 fork. I am glad I asked this question. On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:46 AM, craig wrote: > ** ** > > I used the rivets as per the manual TLPD 424 BS to go through the CS7 into > the CS5 tube and had no problems**** > > With clearance of the push rod, as the rivets are on the sides allowing > the full tube height for the push rod**** > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:31:43 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% From: "ploucandco" Hello all, Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due to the fact that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less than 330 hours. I already looked at the following items: - replaced the fuel with fresh one - fuel pressure is OK - TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and solenoid gets 12V above 108%, so should be OK - turbo wastegate fully closes - air filter cleaned up The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes have been replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where should I specifically need to look at the carbs? The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from line 989. Thanks for relevant input. Jacques Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 04:15:56 PM PST US From: "UVTREITH" Subject: AW: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% Hello Jacques, Please check the inside housing of your carburettors. It might be possible that small parts from the inside of the aluminium housing of the carbs get loose, looking like very small folio. When you increase the power of the engine you will have more fuel flow through the carbs and these debris folio swim up and can close the hole of your jet orifices. We have had that some years ago on the Demo TriGear from EA/UK. When Andy Draper wanted to start and increased the power, the total rpm drop followed some second later. To found that out by an ROTAX expert, taking about three hours. We assume the reason was Avgas, as the TriGear was getting Avgas and Mogas in a mix, depending on the availability. Good Luck, Bruno -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht----- Von: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von ploucandco Gesendet: Sonntag, 10. Juni 2012 17:31 An: europa-list@matronics.com Betreff: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% Hello all, Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due to the fact that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less than 330 hours. I already looked at the following items: - replaced the fuel with fresh one - fuel pressure is OK - TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and solenoid gets 12V above 108%, so should be OK - turbo wastegate fully closes - air filter cleaned up The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes have been replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where should I specifically need to look at the carbs? The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from line 989. Thanks for relevant input. Jacques Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:53:26 PM PST US From: "Bob Harrison" Subject: Europa-List: For UK and European Europa Flyers ....................Wickenby Wings and Wheels Airshow and Fly In 2012. Hi! All. Well I hope the Europa Fraternity will be showing a good turn out for our Fathers Day Air Show at Wickenby (EGNW) this weekend 16th and 17th June. We have a brilliant programme for both days, reflecting the fact that it is the airfields 70th Birthday. Visiting Pilots must be in before 12.45 hours Local all notified by Notams. For Prospective Europa aircraft I intend having about half a dozen 25 litre measured drums of Mogas available, so if that is the key to encourage you to come let me know should you need to have it available. It will be at the UK pump supply price but I can not split a measure . If we need more I will be prepared to scoot and fetch more. Camping on the airfield is permitted but no BBQ fires ...They must be lit on the official camping site. Best regards Bob Harrison GT-PTAG ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:41 PM PST US From: "Bud Yerly" Subject: Fw: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% Jaques, I had to remove the 914 manual from this attachment. You probably already downloaded the 914 repair manual. Regards, Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Bud Yerly Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2012 5:14 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% Jacques, Sounds like you have an excellent knowledge of the 914 systems. I am having a run of the same problems. We will be putting in a product deficiency report but essentially, if the turbo controls are all working, it is the carbs/fuel delivery. Bob Borger is suffering through a slightly different problem but close, as does Homer Baker, and I have two 914s that had me pulling my hair out with similar symptoms. Here is a summary of what to check: If the engine starts to die as the boost comes on, most likely the carb float bowls are leaking. Ed and I were pulling out our hair and are going to put in a product deficiency report. I just did a bunch of work on a 914 because the carbs had never been rebuilt over 300 hours. We put in a carb kit and it worked great on the ground but at altitude were not able to get it to perform as the engine began to sag and miss. Final answer was to soak the paper float bowl gaskets overnight to get them to swell and seal. Then you fly away and after the engine has set a couple weeks, the gasket dries out and the leak reappears. Rotax now uses a rubber gasket for the bottom of the bowl, which affects the torque on the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl, and if memory serves the torque is low at 48 inch pounds, and the rubber gasket, once squished, gets some gas on it then it dries out and the bowls are loose again after setting a bit. I don't mean to sound angry, just being frank. As to troubleshooting: First: I prefer to hook my computer up and check my sensors and throttle position and waste gate operation. You should not need the computer, you only have to check on initial power the wastegate moves with the self test. Next check that the cable is pulled almost fully tight at idle. Note as the throttle is moved half way up, the waste gate cable is let out and the spring opens the gate about half way (45% really), then at full throttle it pulls the cable back. If it does all that, it's basically OK. If it doesn't, we need to look more. Symptoms I have seen for fuel related problems: Providing the idle is fine and carbs will balance: As the engine runs up, the waste gate goes from nearly fully closed (your cable on the waste gate servo is fully pulled) and moves at half throttle position to about half way. The boost kicks in and the MP goes up from about 12-14 at idle to about 30 at 4000. As the boost comes up, any leak in the carbs or the system (all that tubing) will lean the engine out and it will not produce power. So the RPM stagnates and the engine dies if the boost goes up much above atmospheric. I have only one carb leaking and it is running rough as the boost comes on. Once the gasket gets wet, it seals up a bit and runs fine. I swear I will proseal the carb on if the cork gasket doesn't work. If both carbs are leaking then the engine stays fairly smooth, it just cuts out at altitude. Be sure to check your pressure lines on top of the engine for cuts, leaks etc. I use a vacuum hand pump to check each system once disconnected to its sensors of course. You don't want to break anything or put vacuum to a pressure sender. Next, your fuel pump or pressure regulator may be malfunctioning. Easy to check. You have a fuel pressure gauge, you only need to get a boost gauge or old time fuel pressure vacuum gauge combo to tee into an airbox pressure line. If you have a split fuel differential pressure gauge you have to unplug from the differential sender and plug into the airbox pressure line a fuel manifold pressure gauge with up to 50 inches of boost (2 inches HG is about 1 psi pressure), a boost gauge, or the old time vacuum fuel pressure gauge to the airbox hose. Turn on the master and note the static pressure of the fuel pump with engine stopped. It should be 3.5-4 PSI minimum with the pressure regulator attached as normal. Pinch off the fuel return line by bending it slightly and the pump pressure should run up even to 10 or 12 PSI. Do not hold the return hose crimped long, as you don't want to fail your regulator. If the pressure is OK, the pump is good. Check both the main and aux pumps. If you see no increase in pressure, it is the pump or fuel pump setup is wrong with the check valves. Note if one or both of your carbs is leaking fuel out of the float bowl. Next check the inside of the carb by loosening the airbox and checking for fuel draining out of the carb and filling the carb and airbox. If fuel is draining out when you remove the airbox from the carb face, then your float valve seats need to be checked. If the checks above are OK: If you have a low pressure accurate pressure source you can hook it to the regulator and check it at 0-5psi and note the fuel pressure rises. If you don't have a low pressure source then... Start the engine and run it up and monitor the fuel pressure which is not hooked up as a differential fuel pressure (if you have a differential gauge it is still hooked up as above). Note as the airbox pressure builds how the fuel pressure behaves. As the boost increases the fuel pressure should go up about one to one. So when you see 2 psi airbox pressure at about 34 inches MP the fuel pressure should be 6. At full boost the fuel pressure is about 10, the airbox is about 5 psi boost and the MP is at 40 inches. If the pressure is not rising, then the pressure regulator has quit. In flight symptoms of a fuel pressure regulator failure is the engine will run fine below 30 inches on the ground, but will lean out and begin to either loose power or cut out depending on how severe the pressure regulator failure is. You will normally only be able to run at low altitude and the engine does not run well above 26 inches and the throttle will be severly reduced. Your solenoid is easy to check on the ground by hooking up a bit of vacuum or very slight pressure and checking the line from the starboard airbox pressure inlet to the solenoid. Between 100% to 115%, push the throttle up with the engine off and electrical power to the TCU and move the throttle and observe that the solenoid opens above about 108%. Oh by the way, this little 90 degree pressure tap sometimes gets clogged with oil from the turbo and should be clean. When you disconnect the line, squirt a blast of carb cleaner in the tap and make sure it is clean. If you just rebuilt your carbs, be sure to check you didn't inadvertently install your Bing compensating pistons 90 degrees out. Duh, I've seen it done when carbs are rebuilt. All it takes is on assembly, is to put a slight turn on the needle during reassembly. Only the rubber gasket in the top keeps those pistons in position and there is a slot where the rubber goes in to hold the carb pistons from rotating. I have seen the chokes installed incorrectly which leans out the engine also. The Rotax troubleshooting guide is nice but assumes the engine is brand new and your airplane hookup is poorly done. Nothing on an older engine with problems is presented, nothing to help those of us with problems after a carb rebuild, or how to track a defective part like a bad gasket. Just take it apart and rebuild it or buy two new carbs seems to be the factory answer. Go off and test that fuel system, check your TCU servo moves the wastegate OK and you don't have any airbox leaks... Back to the carbs to just check the rebuild you did for simple things and in your case, make sure the float bowls are dead dry. Any wetness, you need to put in new gaskets. I just received cork gaskets from Bing Carbs and will put them in mine to test, as paper gaskets are supposed to be used on the 914. I am serious about sealing my carb gaskets if this does not work and may even put a non rubber O ring gasket (most likely thin paper with the original phenolic) back on the bottom. I have always felt that if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Two very experienced Rotax repairmen I trust, swear by rebuilding the carbs every 200 hours or if they have been sitting a while, as they are a ticking time bomb. I now see they are right about the carbs and we do follow these guidelines religiously. Since the service manual says to rebuild the carbs at 200 hours I now choose to rebuild if I am within 50 hours of 200 hours or the carbs have been sitting 6 months due to extended down time... Ed and I can rebuild the carbs in about an hour, and rebalance the carbs in less than 1/2 hour. The delay is in the soaking and cleaning of the carbs once disassembled, and the soaking of the paper gaskets. I hope the cork fixes the paper gasket problems, (or the rubber gaskets I've heard of work out), and improves the time between carb overhauls. Just my procedures, I welcome other inputs for sure. We are all exhausted down here with it on Rotax and Jabiru with Bing carbs. I don't care if the engine was running great when it came in, if it meets the criteria above, the carbs get rebuilt. Regards, Bud Yerly Europa Tech Support Custom Flight Creations, Inc. www.customflightcreations.com (813) 653-4989 ----- Original Message ----- From: ploucandco To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2012 11:31 AM Subject: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% > Hello all, Recently, I had to about a Take off with my Europa 914 airmaster due to the fact that I was facing an RPM drop above 100%. The ROTAX has less than 330 hours. I already looked at the following items: - replaced the fuel with fresh one - fuel pressure is OK - TCU - transfer function according to heavy maintenance manual and solenoid gets 12V above 108%, so should be OK - turbo wastegate fully closes - air filter cleaned up The issue is still and my next step is to look at the carbs (membranes have been replaced less than 200 hours ago). Any other ideas? Where should I specifically need to look at the carbs? The attached file from the TCU log depicts the issue starting from line 989. Thanks for relevant input. Jacques Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=375200#375200 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/05301132_141.txt http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: RPM drop with a 914 above 100% From: Robert Borger Bud, I don't think you received my commentary on the nitrile gaskets. =46rom a previous e-mailing: FWIW, the nitrile gaskets are probably OK if you have the carb off and are doing a rebuild. Where you can turn the carb upside down to put the gasket in place and properly fit the bowl to the carb body without disturbing the gasket. Otherwise they are too floppy to try and install on the bottom in an upright carb, in amongst the exhaust manifold and various plumbing on the aircraft. I was very careful, checked them with a mirror for location and fit, still they moved out of position while getting the bowls back on and tight. Ended up with both gaskets cut by the bowl. Also, my float bowl nut uses an O-ring and not a flat gasket. The torque is 4 ft-lbs. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop. Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger@mac.com On Jun 10, 2012, at 9:23 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: =85< Snip >... Bob Borger is suffering through a slightly different problem but close, as does Homer Baker, and I have two 914s that had me pulling my hair out with similar symptoms. Here is a summary of what to check: If the engine starts to die as the boost comes on, most likely the carb float bowls are leaking. Ed and I were pulling out our hair and are going to put in a product deficiency report. I just did a bunch of work on a 914 because the carbs had never been rebuilt over 300 hours. We put in a carb kit and it worked great on the ground but at altitude were not able to get it to perform as the engine began to sag and miss. Final answer was to soak the paper float bowl gaskets overnight to get them to swell and seal. Then you fly away and after the engine has set a couple weeks, the gasket dries out and the leak reappears. Rotax now uses a rubber gasket for the bottom of the bowl, which affects the torque on the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl, and if memory serves the torque is low at 48 inch pounds, and the rubber gasket, once squished, gets some gas on it then it dries out and the bowls are loose again after setting a bit. I don't mean to sound angry, just being frank. =85< Big Snip >... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.