Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - Re: Fuel smell and puncture (G-IANI)
2. 01:50 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 07/15/12 (Karel Vranken)
3. 02:09 AM - Cockpit cover colour/material (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
4. 02:15 AM - Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Frans Veldman)
5. 02:32 AM - Re: Cockpit cover colour/material (Gerry Holland)
6. 06:00 AM - Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Roland)
7. 06:26 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Peter Zutrauen)
8. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Gilles Thesee)
9. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Robert Borger)
10. 08:16 AM - N120ej trails and tribulations (AirEupora)
11. 08:20 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Frans Veldman)
12. 08:22 AM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (AirEupora)
13. 03:09 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
14. 03:32 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (Robert Borger)
15. 05:48 PM - Re: Changing HT leads on Rotax UL914 (Alan Carter)
16. 06:00 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (Fred Klein)
17. 06:39 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
18. 07:14 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (jimpuglise@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel smell and puncture |
William
I have found that the main source of the fuel smell is the connection to the
tank breather pipe on three aircraft. The machined aluminium fitting does
not seal to the plastic pipe even if done up tight. Due to the upturn
inside the tank, the vent pipe creates a "U" and fuel stays in the pipe and
the smell can persist for some days.
The best solution I have found is to replace this length of plastic pipe
with rubber. The correct size rubber does seal onto the fitting with a
reasonably tensioned clip.
Europa have tires, inner tubes and brake pads available.
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 07/15/12 |
Svein,
You are fully wright in your conclusion. Last year in Yverdon,
Switserland I suffered a fuselage deformation due to high temperature.
40C. My Europa was covered with the original metalic silver colored
cover. The deformation was under the cover localised just beneath the
fuel intake. Even though the funnel wasn't directly glued to the inner
skin. Later on in Sywell I showed it to Ivan Shaw and he knew more of
it since it happened also in the american desert temperatures. Thus
far no response of the company. Do they still make this covers? Let's
hope in white color!
Regards,
Karel Vranken, F-PKRL
2012/7/16 Europa-List Digest Server <europa-list@matronics.com>:
> *
>
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> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
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>
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> ===============================================
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>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Europa-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 07/15/12: 6
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:09 AM - Re: NPT fittings on fuel flow sensor (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
> 2. 04:02 AM - Cockpit cover - Any colour as long as it's white (Sidsel
& Svein Johnsen)
> 3. 05:25 AM - Re: Cockpit cover - Any colour as long as it's white (Kevin
Challis)
> 4. 03:26 PM - Fuel smell and puncture (William Bliss)
> 5. 06:39 PM - Re: The Standard Warning Light (Alan Carter)
> 6. 10:10 PM - Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? (Roland)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:09:44 AM PST US
> From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: NPT fittings on fuel flow sensor
>
> Use Loctite Teflon pipe seal, (sparingly) it's supposed to go to dust when
> unscrewed. Never use the tape.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A___________________________
> _____=0A From: david park <europa-list@matronics.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@ma
> tronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Saturday, 14 July 2012, 2
> 3:11=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: NPT fittings on fuel flow sensor=0A =0A-->
> Europa-List message posted by: david park <europa-list@matronics.com>=0A
> =0ABest use a special fuel resistant grease, forget name of it. Small amoun
> t on threads cured mine.- Dave G-ldvo=0A=0ASent from my iPhone=0A=0A=0AOn
> 14 Jul 2012, at 21:09, "graeme bird" <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk> wrote:=0A=0A> --
>> I have just been fitting flow and return EI FP5- fuel sensors using bra
> ss NPT hose fittings but they leak, should I use PFTE tape (which is not re
> commended in case threads of PTFE affect the sensor or block the flow, or m
> aybe compound)=0A> =0A> --------=0A> Graeme Bird=0A> G-UMPY=0A> Mono Classi
> c/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP=0A> Newby: 35 hours- =0A> g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http://forum
> s.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378291#378291=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A
> =======================
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:02:39 AM PST US
> From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
> Subject: Europa-List: Cockpit cover - Any colour as long as it's white
>
> On our recent trip to Venezia where we had 35 degrees during takeoff at 9:30
> AM, Stephan and I were quite puzzled by the negative effect our
> metallic-grey cockpit covers had when it came to keeping the heat out. The
> temperature inside the cockpit was HIGH.
>
>
> I have now received the report from the Norwegian Institute of Advanced
> Europa Cockpit Cover Research. The reason it took so long, was that only
> today has the sun been out sufficiently long to carry out such an important
> field study. Here is the summary of the institute's findings (temperatures
> in degrees Centigrade):
>
>
> - Ambient air: 23.5
>
> - Under car window sun protection material (I have now made covers
> to place inside all windows from a set purchased at auto supply store):
> 26.9
>
> - Under white pillow case material (single sheet cotton, thinner
> material than the metallic-grey cover, tight weave): 38.7
>
> - Under metallic-grey cockpit cover, made professionally to many
> Europas: 58.7
>
>
> All cases: Temp. sensor held up against the underside of the test piece by
> pins, to ensure minimum ambient air influence. All test pieces at right
> angle to the sun's rays. No wind.
>
>
> It is evident that the metallic-grey material is totally unsuitable for sun
> heat protection. The colour is just for show, and has the opposite effect
> of what we common folks believe. It is of course water tight, but I am sure
> there is also white fabric available that keeps the water out.
>
>
> If you see a Europa at Popham next year, all covered in white bed sheets,
> it's mine!
>
>
> May the sun shine every day the rest of the summer,
>
> Svein
>
> LN-SKJ
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:25:42 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cockpit cover - Any colour as long as it's white
> From: Kevin Challis <kevinmarie@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
> Sun covers so far this year have not been needed in the UK but floats are lo
> oking likely :-)
>
> Kevin Challis
>
>
> On 15 Jul 2012, at 12:01, "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein@oslo.online
> .no> wrote:
>
>> On our recent trip to Venezia where we had 35 degrees during takeoff at 9:
> 30 AM, Stephan and I were quite puzzled by the negative effect our metallic-
> grey cockpit covers had when it came to keeping the heat out. The temperatu
> re inside the cockpit was HIGH.
>>
>> I have now received the report from the Norwegian Institute of Advanced Eu
> ropa Cockpit Cover Research. The reason it took so long, was that only toda
> y has the sun been out sufficiently long to carry out such an important fiel
> d study. Here is the summary of the institute=99s findings (temperatu
> res in degrees Centigrade):
>>
>> - Ambient air: 23.5
>> - Under car window sun protection material (I have now made cover
> s to place inside all windows from a set purchased at auto supply store): 2
> 6.9
>> - Under white pillow case material (single sheet cotton, thinner m
> aterial than the metallic-grey cover, tight weave): 38.7
>> - Under metallic-grey cockpit cover, made professionally to many E
> uropas: 58.7
>>
>> All cases: Temp. sensor held up against the underside of the test piece b
> y pins, to ensure minimum ambient air influence. All test pieces at right a
> ngle to the sun=99s rays. No wind.
>>
>> It is evident that the metallic-grey material is totally unsuitable for su
> n heat protection. The colour is just for show, and has the opposite effect
> of what we common folks believe. It is of course water tight, but I am sur
> e there is also white fabric available that keeps the water out.
>>
>> If you see a Europa at Popham next year, all covered in white bed sheets, i
> t=99s mine!
>>
>> May the sun shine every day the rest of the summer,
>> Svein
>> LN-SKJ
>>
>>
>>
> =========================
> ========
> =========================
> ========
> =========================
> ========
> =========================
> ========
>>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:26:59 PM PST US
> From: William Bliss <william@wbliss.co.uk>
> Subject: Europa-List: Fuel smell and puncture
>
>
> Nice to be able to report that I may have fixed the fuel smell. I found
> the breather pipe had come completely adrift from the fuel tank behind
> the passanger seat. I have reattached it - but the fuel tank outlet
> stubb looks a bit short and does not have any ridges normally found on
> push fit fittings. I clamped it up as best I could. It should had a
> reinforcement ring inside the stubb to withstand clamping pressure.
> Next thing was a flat tyre (monowheel). It was quite a performance
> jacking up the plane on a busy taxiway. Now it is back in the hangar and
> I have the wheel off. The tyre is 700x6. Brake pads are approx 3mm
> thick. I cannot find brake pad specifications or tyre / inner tube specs
> in the Owners manual or Build manual. Where in UK can I find an inner
> tube and brake pads? Is there a published maintenance manual?
> William Bliss
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:39:55 PM PST US
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: The Standard Warning Light
> From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
>
>
> Hi Bob Remi and all.
>
> The weather at Headcorn was good today, so G-PEGY got airborne from runway 28.
> It was a bit like the blind leading the blind as i have no instruction on how
to
> fly a Europa,
> The throttle lever has a normal range quadrant slide from idle to full throttle,
> at the end of this range a gated position where you can move the lever into
> the Turbo Mode.
> I only used the normal idle to full throttle position today, ( Bob said to use
> this full range during take off ie the full normal range)( But i,m not so sure
> as i would move the throttle in the normall range to achieve 5500 rpms and stop
> even iff i had not reached the end of the range) ??
> With the Prop set to CLIMB Mode on the C/S unit,
> So opening smoothly to the" full normal position" accelerating and rotating
into
> the climb, i found the little prop rev light comes on, about or shortly after
> rotation the RPM is 5500 with the engine revving away.
> So i found myself just getting airborne and reducing the power slightly to put
> this little light on the C/S unit gauge out.
> Passing 200 Ft bring the flaps in slowly then pressing the button which selected
> Cruise Mode, which then coarsened the prop placing it under more load which
> brought the revs down and recompensing by increasing the throttle to about 31
> manifold pressure,
> All i can say is the engine sounded much better, the climb was good, it just
sound
> better than the prop left revving in the Climb Mode until circuit height.
> Climbing at 70 to 75 Kts to 1000 Ft, levelled off, speed to about 100Kts reducing
> back to 25 M/P and settling down at about 90 to 95 Kts down wind, this setting
> seemed to give me enough Power/Speed to make small correction on the elevator
> control to make small height correction +- 100 ft adjustments, normally i
> would be +- 50 ft but i am working hard at the moment .
> Finals approach i was using 20 degrees of Flap and about 70 kts trying to get
it
> back to 65 Kts , remember this is my first flight.
> I found pressing the C/S control back to the CLIMB MODE selection better just
after
> the final turn, this seem to keep the engine revs down, or should i say engine
> revving away.
> I used 20 Flap for touch and goes, and 30 ie full flap for full stop landing,
i
> would say my full stop landings where better.
>
> So How do you Fly a Europa 914 . ???
> And the Prop light coming on momentarily , ( the engine seems fine)??
> Any advice please.
>
> On the last landing of the day with 30 Degrees of Flap ,say about 50 Kts during
> hold off, i had a bird stick, a Black Crow , the bird was not splattered it
> was in one piece with some feathers missing ,
> I think it hit the the leading edge of the right hand tail plane , No blood ,
just
> a little chip about 3 mm and paint marked very slightly its beak may have
> done this ?, its a job to say as i don,t know the aeroplane, but i don,t think
> there was a mark there before !! you have to look for it as its small.
>
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378350#378350
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:10:49 PM PST US
> Subject: Europa-List: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost?
> From: "Roland" <schmidtroland@web.de>
>
>
> Friends,
>
> I had bad luck with my Rotax 914 some weeks ago. The TCU unit had a comoplete
electricity
> failure due to a damaged automatic circuit breaker. All normal during
> run up - no electricity - no TCU warning lights. Select full T/O-power, suffered
> an overboost, cracked crankcase - 10k Euro damage - ouch!
>
> If the TCU-lights don't illuminate by switching the master on - okay, then you
> have a chance to be aware of the dawning danger. At any other time no chance
at
> all from my point of view.
>
> Do I get something wrong here or is it a design fault of the Rotax? Argument
of
> sufficient power all time not applicable due to no power at all with cracked
> crankcase - lucky me I was not airborne yet....
>
> Any comments most welcome.
>
> Grounded Roland
>
> PH-ZTI
> XS Trigear 914
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378361#378361
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Cockpit cover colour/material |
Karel,
My airplane got exactly the same deformation of the skin under the fuel
filler cap as you describe.
My cover was supplied two years ago by a professional UK maker. I have
copied the temperature results to them, and asked if they have any comments
and whether a white material that is water and UV resistant is available.
Regards,
Svein
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
On 07/16/2012 07:09 AM, Roland wrote:
> Do I get something wrong here or is it a design fault of the Rotax?
I'm afraid you did something wrong...
You are not supposed to take off when the warning lights do not come on.
Furthermore you are supposed to watch the manifold pressure gauge when
you select T/O power.
Note that what you experienced was the worst scenario: Apparently the
last known state of the engine was at low power or switched off and thus
with the waste gate fully closed, and you applied full power without the
TCU available to open the waste gate, with an extreme overboost as a result.
During flight nothing dramatic will happen when the TCU suddenly fails,
as the waste gate will stay on its most recent setting, which is correct
for your selected power and atmospheric pressure. Depending on the
throttle setting and altitude you will either experience some loss of
power or a mild overboost when changing the throttle setting or changing
altitude. It should get you home safely.
Sorry to hear your misfortune...
Frans
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit cover colour/material |
Can I suggest to contact Sky4Covers in UK.
Talk to Sarah on +44 (0) 1297 680750 or Mobile +44 (0) 7896 494039
She is aware of the problems of supposed heat reflective covers and the ensuing
problems.
She can supply a white Cockpit Cover in a new breathable material. She has supplied
the UK Fleet of Carbon Sting Aircraft, a similar composite constructed aircraft.
Best talk to her direct.
Regards
Gerry
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
Frans,
thanks for your sympathies and comments on this which of course are much appreciated.
Principally I agree with all you are saying,
But: electricity can be lost at any time, so everything might be looking good on
start up. You can encounter the same problem during taxi or run up (like me)
or in the descend, when the waste gate is also fully closed. Select full power
on a go around and you have it as well - with no warning lights at all.
Watching the manifold can be an option, but believe me that you have an overboost
within a second or two with T/O-power and the gate fully closed - so you have
to be very quick. I also doubt, that you have your eyes on this the first seconds
in a go around situation.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS Trigear 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378383#378383
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
Sounds like a separate/dedicated high-manifold pressure alarm cct with
buzzer/indicator may be warranted?
Cheers,
Pete
On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Roland <schmidtroland@web.de> wrote:
>
> Frans,
>
> thanks for your sympathies and comments on this which of course are much
> appreciated.
>
> Principally I agree with all you are saying,
>
> But: electricity can be lost at any time, so everything might be looking
> good on start up. You can encounter the same problem during taxi or run up
> (like me) or in the descend, when the waste gate is also fully closed.
> Select full power on a go around and you have it as well - with no warning
> lights at all.
>
> Watching the manifold can be an option, but believe me that you have an
> overboost within a second or two with T/O-power and the gate fully closed -
> so you have to be very quick. I also doubt, that you have your eyes on this
> the first seconds in a go around situation.
>
> Regards
> Roland
>
> PH-ZTI
> XS Trigear 914
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378383#378383
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
Roland a crit :
> Watching the manifold can be an option, but believe me that you have an overboost
within a second or two with T/O-power and the gate fully closed - so you
have to be very quick. I also doubt, that you have your eyes on this the first
seconds in a go around situation.
>
>
Roland and all,
As a flight instructor and Rotax 914 homebuilder and flyer, I would
strongly insist on monitoring engine parameters (viz manifold pressure
and rpm) when setting takeoff/go around power. It is naturally easier
with conventional gauges with clear legal redlines : one gets quickly
used to watch the needles reaching the redline from the corner of one's eye.
Also, what is definitely needed in a "electrically dependant" aircraft,
is a conspicuous under voltage warning light.
My best sympathy for your mishap,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
914 folks,
I'm not sure another buzzer/warning light is sufficient. I have the GRT
EIS400 and you can set an acceptable operating range for just about
every parameter the EIS measures and displays. When any parameter goes
out of range you have a noise in the headset, the RED master warning
light illuminates and the EIS display shows a flashing out of range
parameter value.
So you apply throttle on go-around for some reason that already has your
attention and you get buzzing and flashing, oh crap, what's wrong...
You look to see what the display is flashing and finally figure out that
it's showing 45" of boost and you reach for the throttle. By that time
something has already broken.
Giles has the best remedy. Any time you advance the throttle, you
should be watching manifold pressure. The throttle is used to control
MP on an aircraft with a C/S prop. When you reach for the throttle, you
should be doing it to set a specific MP so you should be watching MP.
Now that could be difficult to do when you are already preoccupied with
another problem situation that has required an increase in power, but it
should still be Throttle-MP.
Just my 2=A2. Take it for what it's worth.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Jul 16, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Peter Zutrauen wrote:
Sounds like a separate/dedicated high-manifold pressure alarm cct with
buzzer/indicator may be warranted?
Cheers,
Pete
Message 10
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| Subject: | N120ej trails and tribulations |
After some very short flights I have finally gotten N120EJ up for a 46 minutes
flight last week. Im still having some heating problems, but am getting closer
to solving them. Bud Yerly, Jim McCormick, John Lawton, Jim Puglise have been
a big help. I knew when I bought the Jabiru that I'd have heating problems,
but for the 10K that I save by buying the Jabiru I figured I could do a lot
of modifications to the cowl and engine if need be.
One area is the plenum chambers for both sides. I have the type with the spark
plug wiring and CHT wiring running inside. The first modification was to the
plenum chamber. There is not a lot of information out there for installing the
baffles in the plenum. Bud recommends not using any, but I had installed some.
I had to cut these out completely and my dealer, Jim McCormick, said I had
installed them wrong. I then installed three dams across both front cylinders
and mid cylinders plus a 1 dam over 5 & 6. I have since cut these down to
1/8" on the front two cylinders on both mid cylinders. I have 1/2" on the two
rear cylinders. These are vertical to the air flow. Not sure why, but thats
what Jim McCormick recommended. I have also installed the inter baffles that
Jabiru stated that I did not need. I have also wrapped a piece of aluminum
around 5 and 6 to get more air moving across the fin area.
I have four inch openings on the Canadian Cowl that I'm using. I found out after
I installed them that John Lawton had gone to five inch openings. I have modified
the shark tooth or NACA duct for the oil cooler. Trying to figure out
a method of using this NACA duct and keeping the oil cooler attached to the engine
had been a real challenge. I think I have modified this one piece five
to six times. I have what is called an 8 bar oil cooler. It is about the closest
thing to aviation type oil cooler. The last modification was wrapping the
oil cooler with duct tape and waxing it so I could make a fiberglass mold.
Once I had the mold made I placed it in the lower cowling and designed it to
be glued into place so air could not escape around it, but had to go through it.
I built a duct behind the oil cooler as recommended by a good friend and that
has help a lot. I noticed after doing all this work that my cowling had dropped
I flew it this way and the oil temps came down and stayed down. I then
went back and figured out what was causing the drop in the cowling and fixed
that, but that caused the oil cooler opening to move away from the oil cooler
about on the bottom. I flew it that way and sure enough the temp came up.
One area that I might work on is making a cowl flap for the oil cooler duct. Not
sure how to do it right now. It will have to be part of the airframe and not
the cowl. More on that later, if and when I do it.
Im planning on putting a raised ring around the openings for the air intakes.
Right now this is a flat area and I have been reading some data that shows that
I can increase the flow into the plenum chamber by doing this. There is a dam
on 1 & 2. I have made a ramp so that the air will flow up and over these dams.
The temps on 1 & 2 are good right now, but the ramps may cause them to run
hot.
One thing that has helped a lot is the black box viewer on the MGL Odyessey II.
It gives me the data in one second packets. The air temp, altitude, RPM, manifold
pressure, oil temps, oil pressure, CHTs, EGTs, etc. It is a great tool.
Well, it time to go back to work on the Europa/Jabiru.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378396#378396
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 - how to avoid an overboost? |
On 07/16/2012 04:11 PM, Gilles Thesee wrote:
> As a flight instructor and Rotax 914 homebuilder and flyer, I would
> strongly insist on monitoring engine parameters (viz manifold pressure
> and rpm) when setting takeoff/go around power. It is naturally easier
> with conventional gauges with clear legal redlines : one gets quickly
> used to watch the needles reaching the redline from the corner of one's
> eye.
I have quite a few instruments in my modified full width panel. But the
upper three holes are occupied by three conventional gauges: 1) the
manifold pressure, 2) the fuel pressure, 3) the RPM gauge.
These are the only instruments I monitor briefly during the T/O. And as
you say, a needle in some colored zone in a familiar angle can be
absorbed in the blink of an eye, much faster than reading a number and
interpreting its value.
Other instruments are located further down in the panel. Issues like
overtemperatures or even loss of oil pressure can wait until at least a
survivable altitude has been reached.
Further I agree that during a go around it is the worst time to have a
failure of something. I don't think you can safeguard against anything.
A warning light or buzzer would be meaningless in such a situation,
unless of course the go around is optional, but then what was the
purpose of the go around anyway?
The only time I executed a go around was when I was on an announced
short final upwind, while suddenly a twin engine aircraft emerged over
the top of the hill and decided to perform a downwind landing on the
same runway. Not sure what I would have done during an overboost, but
probably I would have opted to get out of there anyway. I don't remember
looking at the gauges I have to admit. Just what I said, some risks are
unavoidable.
Frans
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
One other thing that I forgot to write about was the propeller pitch. I had adjusted
it to what I thought was 18 degrees, but after re-reading the instructions
and checking the pitch I had 20 degrees. That would cause a lot of heat.
I re-set the prop to 18.2 degrees and will see if that makes a difference.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378398#378398
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
Rick-
INTERESTING! Couple of thoughts. Before you modify your inlet openings, try
putting some vanes in the plenums hung off the top. I have not done that,
but it will be my next step if I still have cooling problems. My thought wa
s that they would be about 1.5 inches deep and run from the front to just f
orward of 5 and 6. If that doesn't do it, you could put some deflectors on
the vane to deflect more air toward the heads. The vane worked so well in m
y cobra head that I think it may help here too. The air coming into the ple
nums must be very turbulent as is. My plenums are back on the plane and now
on to the oil cooler. I may have told you that I split my shark's tooth al
ong the sides and made the opening about 1/2 inch higher. Both that, and my
cooler is 11.5 inches wide, so I have some hope for it. Also, did you add
the holes and plenum on either side of the shark's tooth to cool the oil pa
n directly? I have it on mine and oil temps have been OK. I built it this w
ay, so I can't say that made the difference, but I remember reading somewhe
re that cooling the pan directly helps. John probably told you too that he
worked around the problem by mounting the cooler directly in the cowl. When
he takes the lower cowl off, he needs to un hook the cooler from the hocke
y puck. We need to open a photo sharing site somewhere. My pictures are 5 G
B each, so e-mailing them does not work well. Any thoughts?
Jim Puglise
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 11:15:59 AM
Subject: Europa-List: N120ej trails and tribulations
After some very short flights I have finally gotten N120EJ up for a 46 minu
tes flight last week. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2m still having some heating
problems, but am getting closer to solving them. Bud Yerly, Jim McCormick,
John Lawton, Jim Puglise have been a big help. I knew when I bought the Jab
iru that I'd have heating problems, but for the 10K that I save by buying t
he Jabiru I figured I could do a lot of modifications to the cowl and engin
e if need be.
One area is the plenum chambers for both sides. I have the type with the sp
ark plug wiring and CHT wiring running inside. The first modification was t
o the plenum chamber. There is not a lot of information out there for insta
lling the baffles in the plenum. Bud recommends not using any, but I had in
stalled some. I had to cut these out completely and my dealer, Jim McCormic
k, said I had installed them wrong. I then installed three dams =C3=82=C2
=BD=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD across both front cylinders and mid cylinders p
lus a 1=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD dam over 5 & 6. I have since cut these down
to 1/8" on the front two cylinders on both mid cylinders. I have 1/2" on t
he two rear cylinders. These are vertical to the air flow. Not sure why, bu
t that=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s what Jim McCormick recommended. I have also
installed the inter baffles that Jabiru stated that I did not need. I have
also wrapped a piece of aluminum around 5 and 6 to get more air moving acr
oss the fin area.
I have four inch openings on the Canadian Cowl that I'm using. I found out
after I installed them that John Lawton had gone to five inch openings. I h
ave modified the shark tooth or NACA duct for the oil cooler. Trying to fig
ure out a method of using this NACA duct and keeping the oil cooler attache
d to the engine had been a real challenge. I think I have modified this one
piece five to six times. I have what is called an 8 bar oil cooler. It is
about the closest thing to aviation type oil cooler. The last modification
was wrapping the oil cooler with duct tape and waxing it so I could make a
fiberglass mold. Once I had the mold made I placed it in the lower cowling
and designed it to be glued into place so air could not escape around it, b
ut had to go through it. I built a duct behind the oil cooler as recommende
d by a good friend and that has help a lot. I noticed after doing all this
work that my cowling had dropped =C3=82=C2=BC=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD I fle
w it this way and the oil temps !
came down and stayed down. I then went back and figured out what was causin
g the drop in the cowling and fixed that, but that caused the oil cooler op
ening to move away from the oil cooler about =C3=82=C2=BC=C3=A2=82=AC=EF
=BD on the bottom. I flew it that way and sure enough the temp came up.
One area that I might work on is making a cowl flap for the oil cooler duct
. Not sure how to do it right now. It will have to be part of the airframe
and not the cowl. More on that later, if and when I do it.
I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2m planning on putting a raised ring around the ope
nings for the air intakes. Right now this is a flat area and I have been re
ading some data that shows that I can increase the flow into the plenum cha
mber by doing this. There is a dam on 1 & 2. I have made a ramp so that the
air will flow up and over these dams. The temps on 1 & 2 are good right no
w, but the ramps may cause them to run hot.
One thing that has helped a lot is the black box viewer on the MGL Odyessey
II. It gives me the data in one second packets. The air temp, altitude, RP
M, manifold pressure, oil temps, oil pressure, CHT=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s
, EGT=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s, etc. It is a great tool.
Well, it time to go back to work on the Europa/Jabiru.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378396#378396
===========
===========
===========
===========
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
Jim,
EuropaOwners.org for photo sharing. Start a new album just for y'alls
Jab info.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Jul 16, 2012, at 5:08 PM, jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
Rick-
INTERESTING! Couple of thoughts. Before you modify your inlet
openings, try putting some vanes in the plenums hung off the top. I
have not done that, but it will be my next step if I still have cooling
problems. My thought was that they would be about 1.5 inches deep and
run from the front to just forward of 5 and 6. If that doesn't do it,
you could put some deflectors on the vane to deflect more air toward the
heads. The vane worked so well in my cobra head that I think it may
help here too. The air coming into the plenums must be very turbulent
as is. My plenums are back on the plane and now on to the oil cooler.
I may have told you that I split my shark's tooth along the sides and
made the opening about 1/2 inch higher. Both that, and my cooler is
11.5 inches wide, so I have some hope for it. Also, did you add the
holes and plenum on either side of the shark's tooth to cool the oil pan
directly? I have it on mine and oil temps have been OK. I built it
this way, so I can't say that made the difference, but I remember
reading somewhere that cooling the pan directly helps. John probably
told you too that he worked around the problem by mounting the cooler
directly in the cowl. When he takes the lower cowl off, he needs to un
hook the cooler from the hockey puck. We need to open a photo sharing
site somewhere. My pictures are 5 GB each, so e-mailing them does not
work well. Any thoughts?
Jim Puglise
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Changing HT leads on Rotax UL914 |
Hello.
This is just an ending to this thread.
I finally found the problem was a Mag Coil,firing the bottom front cylinders.
So replaced with a new Coil costing 275 all in.
This time i managed to fit it without removing the inlet manifold as per Rotax
manual, but to get at the nuts and bolts was very difficult,but i managed it,
but probably saved no time.
To replace a Mag or a lower HT lead is simple job but a Pigs Ear of a job to get
at.
Anyway all is well and its running as sweet as a nut.
First Flight was on Sunday, and it flew beautifully , as an X Instructor and my
first experience with a Europa i would say or my opinion is 2x as difficult as
a Cessna 150 in skill. You may think differently.
But on the last landing i had a Bird Strike , a Crow hit during flare and hold
off, it hit the leading edge of the right tailplane, i think ?
Bird intact, No blood, a few feathers missing,The Aircraft is new to me , but i
think a small 3mm chip made by the beak of the bird may have been made, you have
to look for it, but i know its there, That really rounded off my day.
All the best.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=378458#378458
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
On Jul 16, 2012, at 3:08 PM, jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
> My pictures are 5 GB each, so e-mailing them does not work well.
> Any thoughts?
Jim,
On my combuter (iMacbook) when I want to email a photo, I get a sizing
prompt which allows a selection of smaller resolutions to pick from
rather than to send the photo in its full size resolution...I thought
this was a feature common to all laptops...?....
Fred
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
Hi Fred
Start up a Hotmail account, it's free and EZ www.hotmail.com once you
start it up you now have cloud based storage for free, click Skydrive at
the top right, then upload you picture, click share, then get a link,
copy and paste and anyone can access your stuff with just a link. Very
kool and free. They even give you Microsoft Excel and Word light for
free.
Ron P.
>
> On Jul 16, 2012, at 3:08 PM, jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> My pictures are 5 GB each, so e-mailing them does not work
well.
>> Any thoughts?
>
> Jim,
>
> On my combuter (iMacbook) when I want to email a photo, I get a
sizing
> prompt which allows a selection of smaller resolutions to pick
from
> rather than to send the photo in its full size resolution...I
thought
> this was a feature common to all laptops...?....
>
> Fred
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
Bob-
Thanks.=C2- I'll take a look tomorrow.
Jim=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Borger" <rlborger@mac.com>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 6:31:50 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: N120ej trails and tribulations
Jim,
EuropaOwners.org for photo sharing. =C2-Start a new album just for y'alls
Jab info.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster=C2-C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming=C2-Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX =C2-76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Jul 16, 2012, at 5:08 PM, jimpuglise@comcast.net wrote:
Rick-
INTERESTING!=C2- Couple of thoughts.=C2- Before you modify your inlet o
penings, try putting some vanes in the plenums hung off the top.=C2- I ha
ve not done that, but it will be my next step if I still have cooling probl
ems.=C2- My thought was that they would be about 1.5 inches deep and run
from the front to just forward of 5 and 6.=C2- If that doesn't do it, you
could put some deflectors on the vane to deflect more air toward the heads
.=C2- The vane worked so well in my cobra head that I think it may help h
ere too.=C2- The air coming into the plenums must be very turbulent as is
.=C2- My plenums are back on the plane and now on to the oil cooler.=C2
- I may have told you that I split my shark's tooth along the sides and m
ade the opening about 1/2 inch higher.=C2- Both that, and my cooler is 11
.5 inches wide, so I have some hope for it.=C2- Also, did you add the hol
es and plenum on either side of the shark's tooth to cool the oil pan direc
tly?=C2- I have it on mine and oil temps have been OK.=C2- I built it t
his way, so I can't say that made the difference, but I remember reading so
mewhere that cooling the pan directly helps.=C2- John probably told you t
oo that he worked around the problem by mounting the cooler directly in the
cowl.=C2- When he takes the lower cowl off, he needs to un hook the cool
er from the hockey puck.=C2- We need to open a photo sharing site somewhe
re.=C2- My pictures are 5 GB each, so e-mailing them does not work well.
=C2- Any thoughts?
Jim Puglise =C2-
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