Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:25 AM - Re: seals for control surfaces (tennant)
2. 01:34 AM - Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering (Roland)
3. 01:55 AM - DOTH Thu. 9th Sleap (Paddy Clarke)
4. 05:38 AM - Re: Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering (Karl Heindl)
5. 12:34 PM - Europa XS Trigear G-CGZV Update (Richard Collings)
6. 03:56 PM - One lonely daughter found finally her mother (Raimo Toivio)
7. 08:15 PM - Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering (Bud Yerly)
8. 09:20 PM - Re: N120ej trails and tribulations (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: seals for control surfaces |
Just my 10c.
I have been flying with mylar seals on the upper flap joints and ailerons for 15
years.
No great float on landing.
No lifting of the seals on the ailerons up to VNE.
No idea if they have improved performance as I have always had them but I measured
again on the weekend and have 119 Kts TAS at 16 L/Hr and 124 Kts TAS at 17
L/Hr at 3 - 4000 ft. I have no idea if that is good or bad for a 912 (80HP) classic
mono.
Barry
--------
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany
Read this topic online here:
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| Subject: | Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering |
Karl,
do you by chance have a (close up) of your arrangement (both sides)? I 'm also
trailering my aircraft and use the torque tube for winching the aircraft backwards
on the trailer; but this solution (although working principally well) is
not satisfactory in the long run due to structural concerns.
Thanks.
Roland
XS Trigear 914
PH-ZTI
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| Subject: | DOTH Thu. 9th Sleap |
Hi Folks,
It looks as though we might get a weather window at the end of this week, so how
about a DOTH?. I propose Sleap, voucher in Summer edition of Flyer, 1200ish.
All the Best,
Paddy
Paddy Clarke
Europa G-KIMM
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering |
Hi Roland=2C
My fuselage is currently with the Rotax agent for engine repairs. However
=2C the eyebolts should be easy to visualize: they are just aft and inboard
of the leg entry points and very close to the leg fairing when installed.
When you installed the legs=2C you probably remember the socket you had to
bond in first ? You want to make sure that you drill through the base plate
of this socket and not just through fibreglass.I found the eyebolts at a c
handlers shop for marine applications.
Karl
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trai
lering
> From: schmidtroland@web.de
> Date: Tue=2C 7 Aug 2012 01:34:05 -0700
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Karl=2C
>
> do you by chance have a (close up) of your arrangement (both sides)? I 'm
also trailering my aircraft and use the torque tube for winching the aircr
aft backwards on the trailer=3B but this solution (although working princip
ally well) is not satisfactory in the long run due to structural concerns.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Roland
>
> XS Trigear 914
> PH-ZTI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380260#380260
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Europa XS Trigear G-CGZV Update |
Andy Draper has now completed the test flying and conducted a full
flight test all is now OK and I am waiting for the Permit to fly.
We did have a lot of trouble calibrating the ASI,the problem was traced
to the static probe, my original had only 2 holes in the plastic end
where as the drawing shows 4. My thanks to Ian Rickard for having a
spare which once fitted reduced the error to +2 kts at 60 IAS from 2.5
and -3 kts at 120 IAS from -6 kts.
We also have had a lot of trouble setting the stall Warner, its fine in
the air and we have set it up to sound about 8kts before the stall,
however it comes on in the hanger on its own. I reached a decision that
we were never going to get the stall Warner to work properly so fitted
stall strips as per the "Owners Manual", we now have a very predictable
stall with buffet about 2-3 knots before. Has anyone else experienced
this problem?
The only other thing we had to do was reduce the max cause pitch setting
on the Woodcomp SR3000 prop so as to attain the min climb performance of
300ft/min required by the LAA.
I have bought a covered trailer to store ZV in which means that I now
have a purpose built open Tri-gear trailer for sale. its in good order
freshly painted and serviced anyone in the UK interested?
Message 6
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| Subject: | One lonely daughter found finally her mother |
All
Our tour to Hungary is finally finalized and after 10 hours flight back
from Nyiregahaza Hungary (The World Aerobatics Championship were there
just now) via Slovenia, Poland, Liethuania, Latvia and Estonia is
realized and our AN-2 HA-MDO is at her new home in EFTP Finland.
Look at our Europa in the armpit of her =9Cmother=9D.
That flight was really amazing. We are going to have web sites for this
project =93 those who will and want to know the whole story it
will be available.
I have to say our Europas are really economical: the leg was 847 nm and
we burned with economy cruise over 2000 liters of 100LL /AvGas. That
means about 200 liters /hour. Our Europa would have done it by drinking
only about 115 liters of fuel. But that is a different story.
I please you notice the colours of our =9CHAMDO=9D are
exactly as they are in our (Finnish) flag. Was that a coincidence?
Cheers,
Marke and Raimo and Tuuli and Merete Toivio
OH-XRT
FINLAND
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for Trailering |
Alan,
I have been towing Europa trigears for about 10 years now.
We have recovered aircraft out of fields, garages and airports.
Some damaged and and in pieces.
My trailer is a 22 foot car hauler with wing racks installed.
I have a winch and adjustable wing racks for glider and short wings.
I normally winch my aircraft by using my towbar. It pulls and steers,
so pretty neat.
For those customers that do not have a tow bar, I have a strap around
the nose gear fork spindle. The strap goes to the winch cable and up
she goes.
I prefer to pull the aircraft facing forward on my dual axel trailer.
No gust locks or anything else to keep ailerons or rudder from flapping.
After pulling thousands of miles at 70 mph. I have no concerns. Total
cost including welding $2000.
Please note that I have the following:
A dual axel trailer (standard 60/40 balance point).
The main gear set on the forward axel.
Wings are centered about on the trailer.
The trailer has a built in droop on the end so no tail strike like a
straight trailer.
Ramps are about 3 foot long on the trailer and slide out from the rear.
I secure my aircraft with a cable strap around the main gear brake disk
to wheel gap. Rings are bolted through the floor to create the cable
loop geometry. These cables have loops are tightened by a ratchet
strap.
The winch pulls the aircraft forward, one ratchet strap pulls the nose
gear fork spindle aft. Each main is held down with the cables.
Wings clamp similar to the mono trailer and sit in a padded saddle
rather than a sling...
I have a truck to pull the trailer which is nearly 1800 pounds loaded.
The trailer is very easy to reconvert back to a usable car hauler if
need be.
My plane does have my custom wheel pants that are hinged so it only
takes three screws to undo the pant, flip it up out of the way and strap
down the wheel.
I still remove my tow bar for towing once the plane is in place and I
remove my nose gear cap and put the strap on the nose gear for long
trips.
As for super light weight, Frans' solution is right.
Takes a bit of time to get it right, but he should note that the trailer
can be shorter.
I think that for short hauls, tail first is fine. Just make a gust lock
for the tail.
There is a small picture of what my rig looks like on my website at
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
accessories..
We have also done enclosed trailers if you so desire, but they are more
expensive. We have made one that is air conditioned/heated and
carpeted. Pull the plane out and fold down a cot and nap. Think of it
as a mobile hangar.
Have fun figuring your trailer ideas, I did.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Carter<mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 5:27 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Winching attachment points to Tri Gear for
Trailering
<alancarteresq@onetel.net<mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>>
Hello All
I am thinking of using a trailer for my Tri Gear,
I will need to winch the aircraft onto a trailer, nose first.
The way i see it, you can attach a 3 web straps to the inner part of
the Prop, not sure if this is a good idea.?
Or straps to the tops of the undercarriage struts, but a small area of
leg fairing will will need to be removed to accommodate the straps the
strap going round the top of the leg and between the brake pipe , this
seem to be a Strong place to connect to, maybe some type of bolt on
towing eye affixed to the top of the legs then nylon straps to cable and
winch may have been developed.
Or straps to the bottom of the undercarriage legs the fairing at this
point is not in the way, nor is the brake pipe.
I don,t really want to drill and fix to the fuselage.
Any ideas on this, Winching and trailering.
Regards
Alan
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: N120ej trails and tribulations |
About that Jab cooling. Europa does not have a firewall forward so I
have been bad and not commented on cooling this engine.
I have found that putting a dam above the cylinder tends to work for the
cylinders forward of the dam, but consider you have reduced the size of
the plenum effectively as the air behind the dam becomes quite stagnant,
may starve the aft cylinders of air.
The object is to get high pressure air to pool above the cylinders and
allow it to pass through the fins in an orderly manner to absorb the
heat. If the air rushes through the slot, the air won't pick up enough
heat to help cool the cylinders. Since the heads are square-ish you
have the problem of having horizontal air flow over the heads as well as
vertical. Also what about the bottom of the heads and cylinders?
Quite some time ago Graham noted that the engine almost needs a set of
horns focusing air down over those square heads. From that idea and his
work, I put simple metal air guides down through the cylinders as guides
as suggested in the NACA cooling of air cooled engines work done pre and
post WWII.
I sent Rick picks of some of my Jab solutions we perfected in the shop.
We are quite pleased that at least we have made the Jabs flyable.
Prop pitch, carb tuning, intake manifold leaks, inlet size and more
importantly, the mechanical or aerodynamic draw of the cowl exit is
essential to get air through those poor overworked fins. The poor guys
at Lightning Aircraft opened a huge hole in the bottom with a large
flange, but it slows the plane because of the cooling drag. Much fine
tuning was required. But it does cool. Sonex has also had modest
success with their extensive mods.
Pay attention to your prop. The torque curve of the Jab falls off
beyond 2750 and that is where the heat starts to build. Pete at Jabiru
USA likes to run his engines at 2900 which needs a 62 inch prop and a
bit of carb tuning, but it gives Pete descent cooling. In the Jabiru
aircraft, with its large suction hole in the bottom, it does allow it to
cool at steady cruise. I prefer the larger diameter 64 inch, but have a
bit of an issue above 2750 RPM.
We need to get away from the two existing cowls and probably work a 5
inch diameter type inlet (just look at the new Zenith huge holes) and
control the air carefully over the square heads. As Rick and others
have found, the oil coolers need to be more like a certified type (I
suggest the 8 bar) and of course sealed well with a guided exit. Guide
the air over the fins and don't overcool those front cylinders in cruise
or on descent.
I know I should do an article about some of the solutions that we have
confirmed work, but there is just not enough hours in the day.
Keep plugging away guys, you're on the right track.
Just my two cents....
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
(813) 653-4989
----- Original Message -----
From: jimpuglise@comcast.net<mailto:jimpuglise@comcast.net>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: N120ej trails and tribulations
Rick-
INTERESTING! Couple of thoughts. Before you modify your inlet
openings, try putting some vanes in the plenums hung off the top. I
have not done that, but it will be my next step if I still have cooling
problems. My thought was that they would be about 1.5 inches deep and
run from the front to just forward of 5 and 6. If that doesn't do it,
you could put some deflectors on the vane to deflect more air toward the
heads. The vane worked so well in my cobra head that I think it may
help here too. The air coming into the plenums must be very turbulent
as is. My plenums are back on the plane and now on to the oil cooler.
I may have told you that I split my shark's tooth along the sides and
made the opening about 1/2 inch higher. Both that, and my cooler is
11.5 inches wide, so I have some hope for it. Also, did you add the
holes and plenum on either side of the shark's tooth to cool the oil pan
directly? I have it on mine and oil temps have been OK. I built it
this way, so I can't say that made the difference, but I remember
reading somewhere that cooling the pan directly helps. John probably
told you too that he worked around the problem by mounting the cooler
directly in the cowl. When he takes the lower cowl off, he needs to un
hook the cooler from the hockey puck. We need to open a photo sharing
site somewhere. My pictures are 5 GB each, so e-mailing them does not
work well. Any thoughts?
Jim Puglise
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora@sbcglobal.net>
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 11:15:59 AM
Subject: Europa-List: N120ej trails and tribulations
<AirEupora@sbcglobal.net>
After some very short flights I have finally gotten N120EJ up for a 46
minutes flight last week. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2m still having some
heating problems, but am getting closer to solving them. Bud Yerly, Jim
McCormick, John Lawton, Jim Puglise have been a big help. I knew when I
bought the Jabiru that I'd have heating problems, but for the 10K that I
save by buying the Jabiru I figured I could do a lot of modifications to
the cowl and engine if need be.
One area is the plenum chambers for both sides. I have the type with
the spark plug wiring and CHT wiring running inside. The first
modification was to the plenum chamber. There is not a lot of
information out there for installing the baffles in the plenum. Bud
recommends not using any, but I had installed some. I had to cut these
out completely and my dealer, Jim McCormick, said I had installed them
wrong. I then installed three dams =C3=82=C2=BD=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD
across both front cylinders and mid cylinders plus a
1=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD dam over 5 & 6. I have since cut these down
to 1/8" on the front two cylinders on both mid cylinders. I have 1/2"
on the two rear cylinders. These are vertical to the air flow. Not
sure why, but that=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s what Jim McCormick
recommended. I have also installed the inter baffles that Jabiru stated
that I did not need. I have also wrapped a piece of aluminum around 5
and 6 to get more air moving across the fin area.
I have four inch openings on the Canadian Cowl that I'm using. I
found out after I installed them that John Lawton had gone to five inch
openings. I have modified the shark tooth or NACA duct for the oil
cooler. Trying to figure out a method of using this NACA duct and
keeping the oil cooler attached to the engine had been a real challenge.
I think I have modified this one piece five to six times. I have what
is called an 8 bar oil cooler. It is about the closest thing to
aviation type oil cooler. The last modification was wrapping the oil
cooler with duct tape and waxing it so I could make a fiberglass mold.
Once I had the mold made I placed it in the lower cowling and designed
it to be glued into place so air could not escape around it, but had to
go through it. I built a duct behind the oil cooler as recommended by a
good friend and that has help a lot. I noticed after doing all this
work that my cowling had dropped =C3=82=C2=BC=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD
I flew it this way and the oil temps !
came down and stayed down. I then went back and figured out what was
causing the drop in the cowling and fixed that, but that caused the oil
cooler opening to move away from the oil cooler about
=C3=82=C2=BC=C3=A2=82=AC=EF=BD on the bottom. I flew it that way
and sure enough the temp came up.
One area that I might work on is making a cowl flap for the oil cooler
duct. Not sure how to do it right now. It will have to be part of the
airframe and not the cowl. More on that later, if and when I do it.
I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2m planning on putting a raised ring around
the openings for the air intakes. Right now this is a flat area and I
have been reading some data that shows that I can increase the flow into
the plenum chamber by doing this. There is a dam on 1 & 2. I have made
a ramp so that the air will flow up and over these dams. The temps on 1
& 2 are good right now, but the ramps may cause them to run hot.
One thing that has helped a lot is the black box viewer on the MGL
Odyessey II. It gives me the data in one second packets. The air temp,
altitude, RPM, manifold pressure, oil temps, oil pressure,
CHT=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s, EGT=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s, etc. It is
a great tool.
Well, it time to go back to work on the Europa/Jabiru.
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