Europa-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/18/12


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:09 AM - Re: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments (craig)
     2. 12:14 AM - Re: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments (PHILLIPS I)
     3. 12:15 AM - Re: silver paint (PHILLIPS I)
     4. 01:44 AM - Re: silver paint (David Watts)
     5. 01:44 AM - Re: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments (G-IANI)
     6. 04:43 AM - Europa Instruments (Gary Leinberger)
     7. 02:25 PM - Re: Re: Mod 73 (Neville Eyre)
     8. 04:12 PM - Re: Mod 73 (Alan Carter)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:09:04 AM PST US
    From: "craig" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
    Subject: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments
    I think Raimo can help you out with some pics, he has the entire panel from An a380 in his. :) Do not archive


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:14:56 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments
    From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
    Hi William if you check out the Europa club site Ian rickard has posted quite a few, regards ivor On 18 October 2012 07:15, William Bliss <william@wbliss.co.uk> wrote: > > Another favour I forgot to ask regarding my panel updating plans for G-WUFF > > I would be grateful for photo's of existing Europa panels so I can get an > idea of what instruments may fit and where. > > Thanks again > > William Bliss > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:15:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: silver paint
    From: PHILLIPS I <ivor.phillips@ntlworld.com>
    Hi william What Svein has said is Europa's position on paint, But Peter Kember has painted his tri gear silver and it seems to have no problem. But a few years back an American europa painted blue on the bottom in Arizona, suffered a sagging engine after being heat soaked for a day, In August this year Bob Harrison and myself had ground temperatures of 40C in the Czech republic so Europe can still get very warm, regards Ivor On 18 October 2012 07:02, Sidsel & Svein Johnsen < sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no> wrote: > sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no> > > Hi William, > > I would recommend against using metallic paints. I had the same thought as > you, until I checked out the relative temperature of car surfaces (put my > hand on the hood) at a parking lot on a sunny day: > > White is definitely the only "cold" colour. Silver metallic is up there > among the other "warm" colours like green, blue and red. May sound > strange, > but it is caused by irregular particles in the paint reflecting radiation > heat not only outwards (remember: angle out equals angle in). > > Regards, > Svein > LN-SKJ > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:44:46 AM PST US
    From: "David Watts" <dg.watts@talktalk.net>
    Subject: silver paint
    Ivor, That is not strictly correct as Peter has only painted the bottom half silver, the top half of the fuselage and the wings/tailplanes are white. My aircraft is a bit similar in that several years ago I painted the underside of the fuselage dark blue and this has not shown itself a problem even on trips down in to Spain, Italy and Morocco. Dave Watts G-BXDY Classic Monowheel 1960 hours From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PHILLIPS I Sent: 18 October 2012 08:15 Subject: Re: Europa-List: silver paint Hi william What Svein has said is Europa's position on paint, But Peter Kember has painted his tri gear silver and it seems to have no problem. But a few years back an American europa painted blue on the bottom in Arizona, suffered a sagging engine after being heat soaked for a day, In August this year Bob Harrison and myself had ground temperatures of 40C in the Czech republic so Europe can still get very warm, regards Ivor On 18 October 2012 07:02, Sidsel & Svein Johnsen <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no> wrote: <sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no> Hi William, I would recommend against using metallic paints. I had the same thought as you, until I checked out the relative temperature of car surfaces (put my hand on the hood) at a parking lot on a sunny day: White is definitely the only "cold" colour. Silver metallic is up there among the other "warm" colours like green, blue and red. May sound strange, but it is caused by irregular particles in the paint reflecting radiation heat not only outwards (remember: angle out equals angle in). Regards, Svein LN-SKJ ========== target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ==========


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:44:46 AM PST US
    From: "G-IANI" <g-iani@ntlworld.com>
    Subject: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments
    William We have about 50 panel pictures on the Club web site http://www.theeuropaclub.org/for-builders/panel-instruments/ Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours Europa Club Mods Specialist e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:43:56 AM PST US
    From: Gary Leinberger <Gary.Leinberger@millersville.edu>
    Subject: Europa Instruments
    In reference to: From: "William Bliss" <william@wbliss.co.uk> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 6:33:32 PM Subject: Europa-List: electronic engine monitoring and flight instruments I am presently flying with the attached panel. It is full IFR, with a Garmi n 430W, a Mode S Garmin 330 GTX, a Tru-Trak 2-axis autopilot (with a back-u p attitude indicator), a Grand Rapids HX EFIS and EIS. I used a EXP buss fo r circuit breakers (that is the EXP indicator above the brakes and throttle ). I also have back-up airspeed (a Winter since I plan to do soaring and h ad a bit of a space problem), vertical speed and altimeter. I am using a Ai rmaster constant speed prop. Yes, it is a bit heavy (panel weighs 42 pounds - and it cost a bit more than 42 pounds - yuk-yuk - sorry, American humor ) but it is what I wanted. Europa is a great IFR platform - the 2-axis auto pilot is really overkill - the plane actually flies better hands off then w ith the autopilot (still wanders a bit but think I just need to do some fin e tuning) - haven't tried it in turbulence yet but have done an hour and ha lf in the soup. I also have a heated pitot tube which I have yet to test - but not planning on going into known icing conditions - but we get that her e (Northeast U.S.). We also have a great deal of traffic and with the new N ext Gen system I wanted to be able to see more of it on the screen - amazin g how much traffic we have and miss. I also use my IPad with Foreflight and a Stratus for weather. The IPad is mounted over the tray on the right wit h a RAM mount. I have a large 3 hole fan with tubing to cool the 430W and the 330GTX (tube s hook into the back of the units) and the other one is split between the E XP and the back of the HX. I also have two small fans on the top of the pan el set up with a thermostat and a timer. They run off the secondary battery (set up as a soaring buss) and they run for up to 45 minutes after shut d own, dependent on instrument temps. I have had the HX reboot twice for, I t hink, overheating but that was a hot day in Florida (90's F) with sun on th e panel. The photo should allow you to zoom in to see details on lettering on switch es and such. The Grant Rapids EFIS and EIS both work very well and provides far more inf o than is necessary. I am running a 912S and everything fits up neatly to t he sensors. It did take about 40 hours to get everything to talk to each ot her and to arrange the screens (will probably do more fiddling but of cours e that is why we call them experimental). Grand Rapids does make a smaller EFIS that I haven't heard anything bad about. I wanted all this stuff because, first, they are neat toys, and second, I f ly in a high traffic area with many days of fogs and low ceilings (my rule is I won't take off until I have at least 1500 AGL) where I use IFR a lot just to get out or back in (why are airports magnets for low ceilings?). Any other questions please let me know. Gary Leinberger A-237 62 hours Lancaster, Pa. gleinberger@millersville.edu


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:25:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Mod 73
    From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
    Hi Alan, Can't believe LaaLaaLand won't let you put Inspection Panels in as per the Manual ? If you have no panels back there at all, installing some as directed in the relevant Chapter won't be a ''Mod'', just bringing you airframe in complia nce with what has been approved ? The small spy hole lets you see in there, the larger access hole is in the correct position for you to get your arm in, folded round the corner and ab le to work on the torque tube / trim items. I would be tempted to do it, get it signed off by an Inspector, raise a Wor ksheet and make an entry in the aircraft's Log Book, at the same time as do ing the pin work. On next years Permit Renewal Form, in the ''any repairs / work carried out since the last Permit'' question, list the Pin repair work and the addition of inspection panels as per Chapter 23, P 3,4,5 ? The torque tube CAN be got out by working down the ''tunnel''. As you have noted, support the rear fuselage with a padded trestle. Fill th e baggage area with foam / cushions to the height of the seatback / D panel hole so you can ''surf'' in and out. If you have the Classic fuel filler, take the hose off and plug the tank inlet. Get cushions and carpet offcuts in the rear hull so you don't point load th e skin with elbows etc, 3 or 4 layers of carpet / underlay should do. Unbol t the pitch pushrod containment tower and remove, should be 8 bolts / nuts holding it to the hull / roof, and 2 on the wooden cross piece [ 3/8'' & 1/ 4'' spanners].Weight the tailplanes aft down and tie the stick forward to p ark the mass balance weight up in the roof. Surf aft and unbolt the mass ba lance arm, 2 bolts / nuts [3/8''&1/4''] and pushrod, 1 bolt / nut [1/2'' &3 /8'' ] from the horn. Bung the arm out and lay the pushrod in the hull. Pad under / over the pushrod so any body weight on it doesn't hurt it.Also pro tect the two glass lay up brackets in the hull for the tower, fill between with stiff foam so they don't get broken. Pad your self up from the hull with cushions so you adopt the ''Superman'' position, with your arm outstretched in front of you, you will have to hold yourself up with the palm of your hand while you are straightening the spl it pin and pulling it out, pointed nose pliers and gently used cutters are needed to pull / curl the split pins out. Start with the outer pins first. Pull the drive pin out with Mole Grips. You can now rotate the entire torque tube to allow better access to the rem aining 2 split pins. Mark everything as to its position, I put a red blob inside the bottom of t he port end on the main tube [ paint or nail varnish ] this won't get knock ed off at the Machine Shop. Mark all else with a indellable marker pen, ie Port / Stb TP12, TP 10 collars, with both the writing as to where, and a li ne though the lot so it can go together on the bench back in the same way. The red nail varnish on the Port TP12 in a place that won't get knocked off is a good plan. Cool lighting in there is needed, so not a 100 watt lead lamp ! and a fan b lowing in helps. Could take 3 to 4 hours of sweating and swearing to get it out, bit longer to put it back. Tools needed. Imperial spanners [ wrenches for those in the US] & Imperial sockets [ 1/4'' , 3/8'' , 1/2''] needle nose pliers, Mole [Vise] grips, si de cutters, copper / hide hammer, a selection of punches, magnetic bowl [ t o put the bolts / nuts in when you are in there, to stop them escaping ] an d a swear box. I have the cranked arm / long pushrod ratchet spanners which help to reach the bolt heads. To get a spanner on the nuts [1/4'' & 3/8''] I have B&Q plastic13mm double pipe clips [ as used to mount central heatin g pipes] to bolt the other end of the spanners to, which spring on to the t wo 1/2'' tube arms [ you can't get both arms up there at the same time ]. Entrust the assembly to a good Machine Shop to drill / ream to suit the O/S pins. Fitting is the reverse of dismantling, only more difficult ! Hard bit is ge tting the new pins aimed to go in and come out the other side ! I am workin g on a clamp / aiming / thumbscrew / press gizzmo at the moment, watch this space. -----Original Message----- From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net> Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:03 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73 Thanks Neville. honed the LAA today ref. New Inspection Hole. asically No, s i,m in the UK its new dowels and clamps approved by LAA. o i have to find a small person to climb down inside the tunnel after havin g emoved the mass balance weight. assume this is the easiest way to get at the pins, as you can see them. bviously with the tail propped,and all the panels off for light and air. f i go about it this way. ow long to get it out., and do you see any other problem, egards lan ead this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385573#385573 -= - The Europa-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List - -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -========================


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:12:58 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Mod 73
    From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
    Hello Neville. Many thanks for the detailed instructions, this really sound like one hell of a of job to do. Have you ever seen a Whale Surf, i think i will send boy Robin down the tunnel while i stay in the bat-mobile. I will print your instruction off, and check i have all the tools as listed. As for going down the tunnel, I am 14 stone so plan finding a small person to go down the tunnel for me, this will cost me quite a few Beers!! I have not looked down the tunnel yet, but was planning maybe two lengths of wood mounted on layers of carpet laid along each side of the tunnel with plywood screwed to them, so as to make a platform to lay on above any controls lines, and to spread the load, then get boy Robin to Surf down there. Will remove back panel and have a look to see if this is possible. But if you think this is not a good idea, please post. Regards Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385646#385646




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