Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:07 AM - Re: LG08 bushes (David Watts)
2. 11:10 AM - Re: Re: Mod 73 - slightly different (William Daniell)
3. 12:25 PM - Re: LG08 bushes (Carl Pattinson)
4. 01:56 PM - Re: LG08 bushes (Kingsley Hurst)
5. 02:31 PM - Re: LG08 bushes (Neville Eyre)
6. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: Mod 73 - slightly different (Bud Yerly)
7. 03:35 PM - Re: Mod 73 (Alan Carter)
Message 1
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Kingsley,
My experience is that 400 to 500 hours is about normal for the LG08 bushes
and I have replaced mine 3 times and have the materials ready for the next
couple of times.
It is not a nice job replacing the bushes, but as with most things on the
Europa they are mostly fiddly and play on the mind, but are actually doable
in a relatively short time.
Dave Watts
G-BXDY Classic Monowheel 1960 hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kingsley Hurst
Sent: 19 October 2012 23:25
Subject: Europa-List: LG08 bushes
Hello all,
Our Mono has now done 477 hrs and 794 landings.
To my dismay, I have just discovered that the bushes on the LG08 forks are
quite badly worn.
Before ordering new bushes, I am wondering if anybody knows of a more
durable material from which these bushes could be manufactured.
Regards
Kingsley in Oz
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mod 73 - slightly different |
Stephan
Thanks for the idea. I shall do something very similar I think except
mine will be easier because I still have the top off. Less swearing.
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCASSEL
Sent: 17 October 2012 03:15
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73 - slightly different
Hi Will,
One washer on each bolt.
I guess there many different approaches and mine was probably not the
best but it made my day.
The washer was mounted on a wooden stick (about 1/2=9D x 1/2") A
slot was made that hold the washer on place.
Tight. You have to press the washer into the slot. It was quite easy to
put the washer on the bolt.
Same stick (but the opposite side) was used in order to create a long
handle to the spanner.
A mark was made on the stick so I know exactly how far in the tube I
was. The other hand on the bolt.
The first tree were quite easy. On the fourth and last nut the washer
went off and I had to rig the washer again.
( A small swearing was fired)
Best regards
Stephan
LN-STE Mono
Message 3
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The bushes are "oilite" which are impregnated with a lubricating oil (not sure
how they get the oil in) - if you need to heat the lg arms to sweat the old ones
out they will ooze oil from the inserts.
I doubt any other material would wear any less as the undercarriage takes a lot
of punishment.
Just make sure that you replace the top rubber block spacer plate facing exactly
the same way as you removed it - the block assembly can be removed without dismantling
but can be rotated through 180 degrees. If you do this the undercarriage
wont retract fully and you will be faced with having to disassemble everything.
You only make the mistake once - we did !
Ideally you can suspend the fuselage using an engine hoist - rope through the engine
mounting frame.
Its not a nice job but as David says can be done in a couple of hours.
Good luck,
Carl Pattinson
G-LABS.
Sent from my ASUS Pad
Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan@westnet.com.au> wrote:
>
>Hello all,
>
>Our Mono has now done 477 hrs and 794 landings.
>
>To my dismay, I have just discovered that the bushes on the LG08 forks are quite
badly worn.
>
>Before ordering new bushes, I am wondering if anybody knows of a more durable
material from which these bushes could be manufactured.
>
>Regards
>
>Kingsley in Oz
>
>
Message 4
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Dave / Carl
Many thanks for your replies. Your advice to note the orientation of the suspension
block is noted thanks Carl and will be heeded.
Cheers
Kingsley
Do not archive
Message 5
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Hi Kingsley,
If you are not going to do the fix in the next day or so, I will measure my
kit of bits / tools I use for this job on monday, and post a brief guide o
n how to do it, with a hoist, allow a couple of hours to do it, no need to
remove the wheel or disturb the brakes.
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 21:56
Subject: Re: Europa-List: LG08 bushes
>
Dave / Carl
Many thanks for your replies. Your advice to note the orientation of the
uspension block is noted thanks Carl and will be heeded.
Cheers
ingsley
Do not archive
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Mod 73 - slightly different |
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Stephan,
Richard did a great job on his mod. I have attached a drawing of our
solution which differed only in that the nutplates were riveted to a
tube horizontally and 1/4 inch bolts used. (see drawing) It was never
submitted as I had a local machine shop that could put out the work for
about $300 and make new holes and pins, or if the 3/8 pins weren't
installed yet, we could machine the holes to a zero tolerance fit. A
drop of Loctite or two and the whole thing stayed solid for so far, 3
years. So we dropped pursuing the idea. Richard's mod 11969 is a
perfectly sound solution that should work. I just felt that Redux on
the nutplate was a bit tedious when a rivet could be put into a steel
tube quickly. I used a 1 1/4 inch tube (Sloppy fit for ease of moving
into position into an existing stab, slotted it on the bandsaw, slid it
in and marked the holes with a centering punch (inserted into a 1/4 inch
tube to center the punch on the hole and gave it a try. A $10
experiment, that works, but it too is tedious. When Roger Bull came out
with the Loctite solution and got it all approved, I sure liked not
having to go through approvals when what he did works. You know us
Yanks, instant gratification.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
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----- Original Message -----
From: Stephan Cassel<mailto:stephan@scassel.se>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73 - slightly different
Hi Europa pilots/builders
I did the mod 73 per instructions five years ago and at first it
looked good. After a short while the play was back.
My assembly was perhaps a bit tighter then normal so the Loctite did
not penetrate enough.
In order to get rid of the play I made =93special=94 washer, situated
inside the torque tube. Now it was possible to tight the tubes hard
together.
The result was a zero play system. Complete solid for 5 year (340
hours) . I know another builder that has solved the play in the same
fashion with complete success.
Here is draft drawing that shows the parts involved. In my case it was
only necessary to change the outer bolts:
http://aero2012.scassel.se/Images/tailplanemod.PNG<http://aero2012.scasse
l.se/Images/tailplanemod.PNG>
It is necessary to create a spanner with looong shank. I used a wooden
stick and strapped the spanner to it. After 30-40 minutes and some
swearing (not much) it was tight, very tight I may add.
Additionally I made a thin black line, 4-5 cm long, on fuselage when
TP trailing edge was fully down, parallel with TP skin. This reference
line makes it very easy to catch very small play over time.
So far the TP is still on the reference line. I check this on every
pre flight.
Best regards
Stephan
LN-STE Mono in Norway.
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Message 7
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Hi Richard ,Peter
I had thought of solid cores , here you could see the nuts , as the nut would be
on the outside of the tube, you could check them or wire lock them, But the
1/4 moons as in your diagram allow any water to escape from within the tube.
Further more you could increase and have the say two 1/3rd moons, with two drilled
recesses in the back and say two 1/2diameter springs slipped in-between the
two part moons .
To fit just squeeze the two 1/3rd shaped moons together and pop into the end of
the tube , now its holds itself in place . Now you can attach a piece of wood
slide it down the tube twist it about and line the holes up then pop the bolts
in and tighten up.
As for the 2 little springs leave them there, or take another thin piece of wood
push down the tube and push them out, as they have done there job, and use them
again for the next set of 1/3rd shaped moons you are going to slid down the
tube to do the next pin hole.
Alan
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