Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:31 AM - Re: 914 surging/loss of power (Jim Brown)
2. 09:07 AM - Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday (PHILLIPS I)
3. 01:25 PM - Re: Re: Mod 73 (Neville Eyre)
4. 01:40 PM - Re: Re: Mod 73 (danny shepherd)
5. 02:13 PM - Re: Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday (Steven Pitt)
6. 02:31 PM - Working cabin heater (ploucandco)
7. 02:37 PM - Re: Working cabin heater (Gilles Thesee)
8. 02:46 PM - Re: Re: Mod 73 (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
9. 03:28 PM - Re: Working cabin heater (ploucandco)
10. 03:32 PM - Re: Working cabin heater (G-IANI)
11. 04:02 PM - Re: Working cabin heater (ploucandco)
12. 05:23 PM - Reserve Fuel (Alan Carter)
13. 05:54 PM - Re: Reserve Fuel (Tim Ward)
14. 07:42 PM - Introducing Aircraft Specialty (Aircraft Specialty)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: 914 surging/loss of power |
Jeff, check the throttle cable, where it attaches to- the arm, on the exh
aust pipe, if its worn it may-be bending, instead of-moving- the turbo
arm...At 700 hours I had to replace the cable=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________
_________________=0AFrom: Jeff B <topglock@cox.net>=0ATo: europa-list@matro
nics.com =0ASent: Monday, October 22, 2012 12:08 PM=0ASubject: Re: Europa-L
B <topglock@cox.net>=0A=0ARestricted fuel lines/filters?=0A=0AOn 10/21/201
mp;jeuropa" <butcher43@att.net>=0A>=0A> We are stuck in Lamar CO with 914 p
roblems.- Have spent most of the day talking to Bud for ideas. Flew about
4 hours yesterday, stopped for fuel and lunch.- Takeoff was normal but w
hen leveled off, noted fuel flow was only 3.5 gph, not the expected 5.5.-
Increasing throttle gave more MP but same fuel flow.- Engine felt rough
or different than normal.=0A>=0A> Landed and inspected under cowl - no prob
lem noted.- We had just gotten fuel so thought maybe that caused it.- T
ried flight this morning when it was cooler, had to make emergency landing
because power dropped soon after takeoff.- No vibration, just wouldn't cl
imb.- Found that our fuel tank vent was plugged, cleared it, ran ground t
ests & Jim did 20 minute solo test flight with no problem.- Loaded plane
& departed again, engine power dropped just after gear retract, made anothe
r emergency landing.- (Obvious answer is don't let Heather in the plane
- [Wink] )=0A>=0A> At this point we're thinking pull carbs for rebuild.
- Any other ideas?=0A>=0A> Thanks, Jim & Heather N241BW=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>
=0A> Read this topic online here:=0A>=0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewt
opic.php?p=385747#385747=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A
=============
Message 2
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Subject: | Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday |
*Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday 27*
* *
*Hi Guys *
**
* The weather is looking hopeful for this weekend, with free landing and
food its an event worth making an effort for, Hope to see a bunch of
Europa's there,*
**
*Ivor*
* *
On the 27th of October 2012, The Calais Aeroclub is organising an "open
day" from 10:00 am to 18:00 pm open to all - pilots and all public. This
year is rather exceptional in as such that our Air club is celebrating its
85th anniversary. The local district authorities - who manages the LFAC
airfield - has decided that by promoting our Club as well as their airport
- that all private planes, local or international, no matter their
nationality - that the landing fee on that particular day will be free of
charge..
Soft drinks (Coca Cola, Coffee with or withour milk available on site at
the Club hangar as well as sandwiches. Hot meal is equally available at the
Brasserie des Aviateurs inside the main hall. For your information, Miss
Hardelot 2012 will be present - Miss Hardelot is the local and regional
elected beauty queen.
In the club hangar, we will present various old and recent photos of the
club, various planes (Regis Delbaert, a T6 plane -belonging to Gilles and
other planes - obviously outside. The Air club comity and myself hope that
you could participate on this exceptional day for our club. The more planes
land at LFAC - landing is FOC as mentioned above - can only be encouraging
for our club not forgetting the local authorities who endeavour in
promoting their airfield.
Obviously, this day and success depends on weather conditions. Rain clouds
or wind is not welcomed on this particular day.
All the best to all of you. Hope to see you soon.
Sincerest regards
Alain Castille
A=E9roclub de Calais Chair**
Message 3
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Hi All,
No one spotted my deliberate mistake in my earlier posting, re the interfer
ence fit of the pins.......a typo....
Should have read as 0.0007'' undersize holes in the torque tube, so not a j
ob for the local blacksmith !
I was talking to someone about Bud's cooling the pins system when it dawned
on my I had missed a zero......
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
Sent: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
Hi Alan,
Can't believe LaaLaaLand won't let you put Inspection Panels in as per the
Manual ?
If you have no panels back there at all, installing some as directed in the
relevant Chapter won't be a ''Mod'', just bringing you airframe in complia
nce with what has been approved ?
The small spy hole lets you see in there, the larger access hole is in the
correct position for you to get your arm in, folded round the corner and ab
le to work on the torque tube / trim items.
I would be tempted to do it, get it signed off by an Inspector, raise a Wor
ksheet and make an entry in the aircraft's Log Book, at the same time as do
ing the pin work.
On next years Permit Renewal Form, in the ''any repairs / work carried out
since the last Permit'' question, list the Pin repair work and the addition
of inspection panels as per Chapter 23, P 3,4,5 ?
The torque tube CAN be got out by working down the ''tunnel''.
As you have noted, support the rear fuselage with a padded trestle. Fill th
e baggage area with foam / cushions to the height of the seatback / D panel
hole so you can ''surf'' in and out. If you have the Classic fuel filler,
take the hose off and plug the tank inlet.
Get cushions and carpet offcuts in the rear hull so you don't point load th
e skin with elbows etc, 3 or 4 layers of carpet / underlay should do. Unbol
t the pitch pushrod containment tower and remove, should be 8 bolts / nuts
holding it to the hull / roof, and 2 on the wooden cross piece [ 3/8'' & 1/
4'' spanners].Weight the tailplanes aft down and tie the stick forward to p
ark the mass balance weight up in the roof. Surf aft and unbolt the mass ba
lance arm, 2 bolts / nuts [3/8''&1/4''] and pushrod, 1 bolt / nut [1/2'' &3
/8'' ] from the horn. Bung the arm out and lay the pushrod in the hull. Pad
under / over the pushrod so any body weight on it doesn't hurt it.Also pro
tect the two glass lay up brackets in the hull for the tower, fill between
with stiff foam so they don't get broken.
Pad your self up from the hull with cushions so you adopt the ''Superman''
position, with your arm outstretched in front of you, you will have to hold
yourself up with the palm of your hand while you are straightening the spl
it pin and pulling it out, pointed nose pliers and gently used cutters are
needed to pull / curl the split pins out. Start with the outer pins first.
Pull the drive pin out with Mole Grips.
You can now rotate the entire torque tube to allow better access to the rem
aining 2 split pins.
Mark everything as to its position, I put a red blob inside the bottom of t
he port end on the main tube [ paint or nail varnish ] this won't get knock
ed off at the Machine Shop. Mark all else with a indellable marker pen, ie
Port / Stb TP12, TP 10 collars, with both the writing as to where, and a li
ne though the lot so it can go together on the bench back in the same way.
The red nail varnish on the Port TP12 in a place that won't get knocked off
is a good plan.
Cool lighting in there is needed, so not a 100 watt lead lamp ! and a fan b
lowing in helps.
Could take 3 to 4 hours of sweating and swearing to get it out, bit longer
to put it back.
Tools needed. Imperial spanners [ wrenches for those in the US] & Imperial
sockets [ 1/4'' , 3/8'' , 1/2''] needle nose pliers, Mole [Vise] grips, si
de cutters, copper / hide hammer, a selection of punches, magnetic bowl [ t
o put the bolts / nuts in when you are in there, to stop them escaping ] an
d a swear box. I have the cranked arm / long pushrod ratchet spanners which
help to reach the bolt heads. To get a spanner on the nuts [1/4'' & 3/8'']
I have B&Q plastic13mm double pipe clips [ as used to mount central heatin
g pipes] to bolt the other end of the spanners to, which spring on to the t
wo 1/2'' tube arms [ you can't get both arms up there at the same time ].
Entrust the assembly to a good Machine Shop to drill / ream to suit the O/S
pins.
Fitting is the reverse of dismantling, only more difficult ! Hard bit is ge
tting the new pins aimed to go in and come out the other side ! I am workin
g on a clamp / aiming / thumbscrew / press gizzmo at the moment, watch this
space.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:03
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
Thanks Neville.
honed the LAA today ref. New Inspection Hole.
asically No,
s i,m in the UK its new dowels and clamps approved by LAA.
o i have to find a small person to climb down inside the tunnel after havin
g
emoved the mass balance weight.
assume this is the easiest way to get at the pins, as you can see them.
bviously with the tail propped,and all the panels off for light and air.
f i go about it this way.
ow long to get it out., and do you see any other problem,
egards
lan
ead this topic online here:
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On 24/10/2012 21:23, Neville Eyre wrote:
Dam, I just saked my local blacksmith to fix thew plroblem
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:-) .
> Hi All,
> No one spotted my deliberate mistake in my earlier posting, re the
> interference fit of the pins.......a typo....
> Should have read as 0.0007'' undersize holes in the torque tube, so
> not a job for the local blacksmith !
> I was talking to someone about Bud's cooling the pins system when it
> dawned on my I had missed a zero......
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
> To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:26
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
>
> Hi Alan,
> Can't believe LaaLaaLand won't let you put Inspection Panels in as per
> the Manual ?
> If you have no panels back there at all, installing some as directed
> in the relevant Chapter won't be a ''Mod'', just bringing you airframe
> in compliance with what has been approved ?
> The small spy hole lets you see in there, the larger access hole is in
> the correct position for you to get your arm in, folded round the
> corner and able to work on the torque tube / trim items.
> I would be tempted to do it, get it signed off by an Inspector, raise
> a Worksheet and make an entry in the aircraft's Log Book, at the same
> time as doing the pin work.
> On next years Permit Renewal Form, in the ''any repairs / work carried
> out since the last Permit'' question, list the Pin repair work and the
> addition of inspection panels as per Chapter 23, P 3,4,5 ?
> The torque tube CAN be got out by working down the ''tunnel''.
> As you have noted, support the rear fuselage with a padded trestle.
> Fill the baggage area with foam / cushions to the height of the
> seatback / D panel hole so you can ''surf'' in and out. If you have
> the Classic fuel filler, take the hose off and plug the tank inlet.
> Get cushions and carpet offcuts in the rear hull so you don't point
> load the skin with elbows etc, 3 or 4 layers of carpet / underlay
> should do. Unbolt the pitch pushrod containment tower and remove,
> should be 8 bolts / nuts holding it to the hull / roof, and 2 on the
> wooden cross piece [ 3/8'' & 1/4'' spanners].Weight the tailplanes
> aft down and tie the stick forward to park the mass balance weight up
> in the roof. Surf aft and unbolt the mass balance arm, 2 bolts /
> nuts [3/8''&1/4''] and pushrod, 1 bolt / nut [1/2'' &3/8'' ] from the
> horn. Bung the arm out and lay the pushrod in the hull. Pad under /
> over the pushrod so any body weight on it doesn't hurt it.Also protect
> the two glass lay up brackets in the hull for the tower, fill
> between with stiff foam so they don't get broken.
> Pad your self up from the hull with cushions so you adopt the
> ''Superman'' position, with your arm outstretched in front of you, you
> will have to hold yourself up with the palm of your hand while you are
> straightening the split pin and pulling it out, pointed nose pliers
> and gently used cutters are needed to pull / curl the split pins out.
> Start with the outer pins first.
> Pull the drive pin out with Mole Grips.
> You can now rotate the entire torque tube to allow better access to
> the remaining 2 split pins.
> Mark everything as to its position, I put a red blob inside the bottom
> of the port end on the main tube [ paint or nail varnish ] this won't
> get knocked off at the Machine Shop. Mark all else with a indellable
> marker pen, ie Port / Stb TP12, TP 10 collars, with both the writing
> as to where, and a line though the lot so it can go together on the
> bench back in the same way. The red nail varnish on the Port TP12 in a
> place that won't get knocked off is a good plan.
> Cool lighting in there is needed, so not a 100 watt lead lamp ! and a
> fan blowing in helps.
> Could take 3 to 4 hours of sweating and swearing to get it out, bit
> longer to put it back.
> Tools needed. Imperial spanners [ wrenches for those in the US] &
> Imperial sockets [ 1/4'' , 3/8'' , 1/2''] needle nose pliers, Mole
> [Vise] grips, side cutters, copper / hide hammer, a selection of
> punches, magnetic bowl [ to put the bolts / nuts in when you are in
> there, to stop them escaping ] and a swear box. I have the cranked arm
> / long pushrod ratchet spanners which help to reach the bolt heads. To
> get a spanner on the nuts [1/4'' & 3/8''] I have B&Q plastic13mm
> double pipe clips [ as used to mount central heating pipes] to bolt
> the other end of the spanners to, which spring on to the two 1/2''
> tube arms [ you can't get both arms up there at the same time ].
> Entrust the assembly to a good Machine Shop to drill / ream to suit
> the O/S pins.
> Fitting is the reverse of dismantling, only more difficult ! Hard bit
> is getting the new pins aimed to go in and come out the other side ! I
> am working on a clamp / aiming / thumbscrew / press gizzmo at the
> moment, watch this space.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net
> <mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>>
> To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:03
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
>
>
> Thanks Neville.
> Phoned the LAA today ref. New Inspection Hole.
> Basically No,
> As i,m in the UK its new dowels and clamps approved by LAA.
> So i have to find a small person to climb down inside the tunnel after having
> removed the mass balance weight.
> I assume this is the easiest way to get at the pins, as you can see them.
>
> Obviously with the tail propped,and all the panels off for light and air.
> If i go about it this way.
> How long to get it out., and do you see any other problem,
> Regards
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385573#385573
>
>
> arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> *
>
> arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday |
Sounds good Ivor - sorry I will be over in the USA but hope you get good
weather and some decent response to the fly-in.
Regards
Steve Pitt
----- Original Message -----
From: PHILLIPS I
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 5:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday
Drop of the hat Calais this Saturday 27
Hi Guys
The weather is looking hopeful for this weekend, with free landing
and food its an event worth making an effort for, Hope to see a bunch
of Europa's there,
Ivor
On the 27th of October 2012, The Calais Aeroclub is organising an
"open day" from 10:00 am to 18:00 pm open to all - pilots and all
public. This year is rather exceptional in as such that our Air club is
celebrating its 85th anniversary. The local district authorities - who
manages the LFAC airfield - has decided that by promoting our Club as
well as their airport - that all private planes, local or international,
no matter their nationality - that the landing fee on that particular
day will be free of charge..
Soft drinks (Coca Cola, Coffee with or withour milk available on site
at the Club hangar as well as sandwiches. Hot meal is equally available
at the Brasserie des Aviateurs inside the main hall. For your
information, Miss Hardelot 2012 will be present - Miss Hardelot is the
local and regional elected beauty queen.
In the club hangar, we will present various old and recent photos of
the club, various planes (Regis Delbaert, a T6 plane -belonging to
Gilles and other planes - obviously outside. The Air club comity and
myself hope that you could participate on this exceptional day for our
club. The more planes land at LFAC - landing is FOC as mentioned above -
can only be encouraging for our club not forgetting the local
authorities who endeavour in promoting their airfield.
Obviously, this day and success depends on weather conditions. Rain
clouds or wind is not welcomed on this particular day.
All the best to all of you. Hope to see you soon.
Sincerest regards
Alain Castille
A=E9roclub de Calais Chair
Message 6
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Subject: | Working cabin heater |
Hello all,
The cold season is starting this week in Eastern Europe!
I am looking at options to have a really working cabin heater for my rotax 914
based Europa. Mean that it is still warm enough in the cabin at -20C (flying in
winter when everything is white is something marvelous).
My understanding is that only a heater with air warmed from the exhaust will achieve
that.
Does someone has pictures/instruction/specific parts of a working system for a
914 Europa?
Thanks, Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385933#385933
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Subject: | Re: Working cabin heater |
ploucandco a crit :
>
> Hello all,
>
> The cold season is starting this week in Eastern Europe!
>
> I am looking at options to have a really working cabin heater for my rotax 914
based Europa. Mean that it is still warm enough in the cabin at -20C (flying
in winter when everything is white is something marvelous).
>
> My understanding is that only a heater with air warmed from the exhaust will
achieve that.
>
> Does someone has pictures/instruction/specific parts of a working system for
a 914 Europa?
>
Jacques,
Here what we did :
http://contrails.free.fr/cellule_chauffage_en.php
Very efficient, no fumes, but you need a correctly designed *radiator duct.*
Hope this helps,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 8
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Hi Group
With regard to getting a good fit of pins on my quick build tailplanes
that had a lot of play at the tip of the stabilators from the get go (at
least 1"), I machined my own pins.
What I found was that even while taking extreme care using slightly
undersized drill, then reaming to size using plenty of cutting fluid (10
mm), the hole although it was close to proper size (using precision guage
pins in .0001 steps to measure), it was a pretty poor finish on the hole
if you look with a microscope. In other words half of the metal was only
making contact with the pin! After a bit of head scratching, I machined a
number of pins with .0001" tolerance in incremental size. I was able
to tap these in using lubricant until I could see and feel that there was
good contact. Then measuring with my precision pins, I made the
"real deal" pins between .0007 to m.0009" interference fit
of this "sized" hole. I cheated a little bit where I made the
first hole the pin would go in a few tenths larger at least than the
second hole, and made the pin a dog bone shape, where the center was a
few thousands smaller in diameter so it would not drag and oversize the
first hole. The only interference fit on the pin was ~ 1/8" longer
than needed. Machining to .0001" takes a bit of practice, but what I
did was laid out all my holes and machined the first pin the largest
size. This way if I went under, I was able to use this now undersized pin
for the smaller holes. Anyway about 33% scrap, not too bad. End result
was a really nice fit during final assembly. You can't use a
lath tool bit to work within .0001", you need to lap your size. If
you're lucky you may get within less than a thousand, if not two or
three thousands. In other words, wet and dry sandpaper glued to a
tongue depressor. Using a precision micrometer, use sandpaper on any over
sized areas to keep uniform diameter. net is you can work within amazing
tolerances! I made out of free machining 410 stainless purchased from
www.mcmaster.com
To make dogbone was easy. Tape over area of interference fit and using
tongue depressor with sandpaper go after what you want to make
undersized. Perhaps takes 5 or 10 minutes each pin.
If you want to see some pics, look under Torque Tube fit:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=86924
Ron Parigoris
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Working cabin heater |
Merci Gilles.
I saw this one but on the Europa, it seems that the amount of heat going in the
cockpit with an engine at the lower green limits (winter time!) is not enough
to warm up the cabin.
If someone can prove me the opposite, I am happy to hear.
Jacques.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385938#385938
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Subject: | Working cabin heater |
Jacques
On the Club Web site you will find a copy of the Mod 10986 which describes
the heater fitted to G-JULZ. A number of other aircraft have very similar
installations. It is also very similar to the MCR-4S heater described by
Gilles.
Here is a direct link to the Mod
http://www.theeuropaclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/10986all.pdf
Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
Europa Club Mods Specialist
e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Working cabin heater |
Thanks Ian. I saw this one as well. The goal is to get +15C in the cabin when the
outside air is -20C.
Do you or someone else have positive experience that this system will provide
this +35C difference in temperature?
Sorry to be difficult but I read a few times that such heater will work well when
the engine is running hot. Mine is running cool in winter.
Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385943#385943
Message 12
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Hi All.
I am just putting this in as it may be of use to low hour flyer's or owners that
purchased there aircraft like me.
I purchased my Europa about 3 months ago and have clocked up just over 35 hours
in her.
The previous owner flew her in to Headcorn and basically said nothing , leaving
the plane with a 600 rpm Mag drop which i had to fix.
Eventually I went flying loading extra fuel as i did not know the aeroplane, and
thinking the fuel gauge might be over read a little thinking maybe 5 to 8 litres.
A few weeks later i decided to drain the tanks and check the gauge, lucky i did
for a couple of reasons as follows.
I drained both Main and Reserve as i did not know which tank saddle was the reserve,
more by chance i drained the Main tanks Saddle first,
it was a long process as i used the fuel drain valves under the aircrafts belly.
Then i drained the Reserve the same way ,Here i made a discovery, the 8 litres
of drained fuel was Stale, contained particles and some emulsified water droplets.
I concluded from my detective work (1) That the previous owner never used the Reserve
Side of the Tank, and (2) That even though the Fuel Filler Cap Hose goes
down the same side as the Reserve saddle the fuel in the reserve does not mix
so leaving old stale dirty fuel in the saddle.
I have flow 4 Europa's and nothing about Checking Reserve was printed one there
Check Lists, so i suspect they are quit a few who never use the Reserve,??
So I have added a line to my Check List, Taxing In on Reserve, and then change
back to Main, I am not likely to use Reserve, and the least i fiddle with before
Take Off suits me.
At least i know i have fresh clean fuel there should i need it, And Taxing In after
flying gets me use to putting my hand down the tunnel and correctly moving
the fuel cock to the correct selections.
I refilled the tank using a 5 litre cans checking the gauge and making a Fuel Ref
Chart, to my surprise 58 Lts on the gauge equaled 35 Ltr actually in the tank.
It was way out, i must have been very close empty at times, Now i am using my Chart/Gauge
tables which is quit accurate. I will get round to re calibrating the
gauge now i have instruction Manual. So (3) Know what's actually in the Tank.
I have no fuel filters just a Gasolator, so in cleaning this , i run some main
fuel then and some reserve fuel, having selected Reserve no fuel came through,
another discovery, i have to put my hand down the tunnel to get at the fuel cock,
and selected the fuel cock pointer, to the ON RESERVE position , but was
actually selected to the FUEL OFF position, ie the fuel cock handle position
for Reserve was not as i would have thought to be,it looked and appeared to me
to be set correctly.
(4) Check and Confirm the position and look of the lever for, Fuel Off and the
position and look of the lever for Fuel Reserve , (I am referring to the old early
stile fuel cocks)( not the little Red new type cocks)
I know some have all the latest gismo's , but others with just the bare bones may
find this helpful.
So in a nutshell, Fuel/Gauge Tables,Handle the Fuel Cock,Burn some Reserve.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385950#385950
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Subject: | Re: Reserve Fuel |
Alan,
Interesting finds. For the Monowheel Classic, the best!
I normally run my reserve in the cruise to avoid what you have said and keep the
fuel flow exercised from both sides. Back to Main for LDG and TO.
I placed an extension (workshop drill extension adaptor) from the fuel cock to
bring it to be easily accessible to the pilot as the fuel selector on the centre
armrest.
Was the Fuel Gauged table measurements done with the aircraft in the flying attitude?
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t@xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
On 25/10/2012, at 9:23 AM, "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq@onetel.net> wrote:
>
> Hi All.
> I am just putting this in as it may be of use to low hour flyer's or owners that
purchased there aircraft like me.
> I purchased my Europa about 3 months ago and have clocked up just over 35 hours
in her.
> The previous owner flew her in to Headcorn and basically said nothing , leaving
the plane with a 600 rpm Mag drop which i had to fix.
> Eventually I went flying loading extra fuel as i did not know the aeroplane,
and thinking the fuel gauge might be over read a little thinking maybe 5 to 8
litres.
>
> A few weeks later i decided to drain the tanks and check the gauge, lucky i did
for a couple of reasons as follows.
> I drained both Main and Reserve as i did not know which tank saddle was the reserve,
more by chance i drained the Main tanks Saddle first,
> it was a long process as i used the fuel drain valves under the aircrafts belly.
> Then i drained the Reserve the same way ,Here i made a discovery, the 8 litres
of drained fuel was Stale, contained particles and some emulsified water droplets.
> I concluded from my detective work (1) That the previous owner never used the
Reserve Side of the Tank, and (2) That even though the Fuel Filler Cap Hose goes
down the same side as the Reserve saddle the fuel in the reserve does not
mix so leaving old stale dirty fuel in the saddle.
> I have flow 4 Europa's and nothing about Checking Reserve was printed one there
Check Lists, so i suspect they are quit a few who never use the Reserve,??
> So I have added a line to my Check List, Taxing In on Reserve, and then change
back to Main, I am not likely to use Reserve, and the least i fiddle with before
Take Off suits me.
> At least i know i have fresh clean fuel there should i need it, And Taxing In
after flying gets me use to putting my hand down the tunnel and correctly moving
the fuel cock to the correct selections.
>
> I refilled the tank using a 5 litre cans checking the gauge and making a Fuel
Ref Chart, to my surprise 58 Lts on the gauge equaled 35 Ltr actually in the
tank.
> It was way out, i must have been very close empty at times, Now i am using my
Chart/Gauge tables which is quit accurate. I will get round to re calibrating
the gauge now i have instruction Manual. So (3) Know what's actually in the Tank.
> I have no fuel filters just a Gasolator, so in cleaning this , i run some main
fuel then and some reserve fuel, having selected Reserve no fuel came through,
another discovery, i have to put my hand down the tunnel to get at the fuel
cock, and selected the fuel cock pointer, to the ON RESERVE position , but was
actually selected to the FUEL OFF position, ie the fuel cock handle position
for Reserve was not as i would have thought to be,it looked and appeared to
me to be set correctly.
> (4) Check and Confirm the position and look of the lever for, Fuel Off and the
position and look of the lever for Fuel Reserve , (I am referring to the old
early stile fuel cocks)( not the little Red new type cocks)
> I know some have all the latest gismo's , but others with just the bare bones
may find this helpful.
> So in a nutshell, Fuel/Gauge Tables,Handle the Fuel Cock,Burn some Reserve.
> Alan
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385950#385950
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Introducing Aircraft Specialty |
Good evening fellow builders, pilots and enthusiasts. I want to take this
opportunity to introduce Aircraft Specialty.
We have been working the last few months on developing a web presence and
already count a lot of you as customers and friends.
Our mission is simple=85..we want to help fellow builders out by building a
nd
selling the highest quality products at the best prices with excellent
customer service. We will do whatever it takes to earn your business and
make sure that you are a satisfied customer not just in the days and weeks
after your purchase, but forever.
Also, we know that your time is extremely valuable, so we have tried to
make our web site extremely user friendly. We have developed several
interactive applications to simplify some things. For instance, if you
need a data plate or are looking to have your fuel caps engraved, you can
input all the data on our website exactly as you would like it to appear,
add it to your cart and purchase without having to email back and forth to
get set up. We also have developed an interactive pricing application to
let you design and price custom fuel lines or battery cables right on the
website and order with our interactive application. It=92s never been
easier.
We have also been diligently working on new products to enhance the
experience of builders. We are extremely excited to announce the
=93Signature Series=94 line of parts to the community. Anything with this
logo
on it is something that we manufacture in house. It is of the highest
quality and also carries our limited lifetime warranty. We have some very
unique items, such as our Aftermarket Flap handle, which not only looks
great and is easy to install, but also solves a problem that plagues many
toggle switches. Our won=92t rotate with the toggle and as such provides a
great looking alternative to a standard toggle switch at a price that is
cheaper than any other flap shaped switch. We also have a unique, great
looking alternate static system that will integrate with the SafeAir1
system, and also eventually our own pitot static system that we are
developing.
Since we have extremely low overhead and make many of the parts in house,
we are able to offer incredible pricing. This also holds true on our
clecos and bucking bars. We have been able to secure great pricing due to
high volume purchases and rather than keeping our already low prices the
same, we have lowered them to pass the savings on to our customers.
You can take a look at all of our products by remembering one of three
website names. We can be found at www.aircraftspecialty.com,
www.kitplanemods.com, or www.kitplanehoses.com. All three domains will
take you to the same place.
Finally, as a fellow builder, I would like to let everyone know that this
business will evolve around YOUR needs. I really welcome comments as well
as any constructive criticism that you may have. I definitely welcome
the creativity of the homebuilding community and would like to help develop
new products that you are interested in. This will benefit the entire
community in the long run.
If you run into any website issues, please let me know as we are still a
small but rapidly growing company and do all our IT in house and will do
our best to resolve it
Thank you for your time, and we look forward to earning your business.
Steve and Dawn
steve@aircraftspecialty.com
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