Europa-List Digest Archive

Sat 11/24/12


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:41 AM - Electrics (Peter Field)
     2. 04:28 AM - Re: Electrics (Bob Harrison)
     3. 06:26 AM - Re: Electrics (Peter Jeffers)
     4. 07:23 AM - Re: Rear Wing Pins W 24 (Tyler)
     5. 10:10 AM - Re: Electrics (Frans Veldman)
     6. 12:20 PM - Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (graeme bird)
     7. 05:03 PM - tri gear socket installation (fireflier)
     8. 05:48 PM - Re: tri gear socket installation (craig)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:41:19 AM PST US
    Subject: Electrics
    From: "Peter Field" <Peter.Field@hgfield.co.uk>
    Does anybody know what retains the cables pushed into the terminal block (see photo)? The ignition circuit kill wires are the two white cables and we have had some trouble with these not making a good connection. There are rubber grommets that fit around the wires and appear to be the only means of securing a contact by applying pressure to the cable when fitted inside the block. Peter Field. G-CHOX


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:28:13 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
    Subject: Electrics
    Hi! Peter, The grommets are to stop the ingress of water and maintain the wire central, so mine are mounted vertically, perhaps that would help ? I presume that you have a tang crimped to the wire which engages in the slot in the socket from memory? Regards Bob Harrison. From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Field Sent: 24 November 2012 10:39 Subject: Europa-List: Electrics Does anybody know what retains the cables pushed into the terminal block (see photo)? The ignition circuit kill wires are the two white cables and we have had some trouble with these not making a good connection. There are rubber grommets that fit around the wires and appear to be the only means of securing a contact by applying pressure to the cable when fitted inside the block. Peter Field. G-CHOX


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:26:22 AM PST US
    From: "Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers@talktalk.net>
    Subject: Electrics
    Hi Pete, I can see from your photo that these white wires are not pushed fully home. You will notice that each of the other wires in the plastic multi connector shows two black/dark coloured parallel strips just inside where they enter the connector block. These are water seals. If you now look at your two offending white wires these strips do not look the same because they are not fully pushed home. So the answer to your question is to push them further in. You will find that they pop into place when in the correct position and should then look like the other wires. Give it a try, think you will find this fixes your problem. Pete _____ From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Field Sent: 24 November 2012 10:39 Subject: Europa-List: Electrics Does anybody know what retains the cables pushed into the terminal block (see photo)? The ignition circuit kill wires are the two white cables and we have had some trouble with these not making a good connection. There are rubber grommets that fit around the wires and appear to be the only means of securing a contact by applying pressure to the cable when fitted inside the block. Peter Field. G-CHOX _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:23:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Rear Wing Pins W 24
    From: Tyler <helidogtyler@gmail.com>
    Thank you for the information. On Nov 22, 2012, at 2:04 PM, K BURNS <kjburns@btinternet.com> wrote: > Tyler, > > Re Wing pins, W 24, I recently replaced the W 24 wing pins on my Europa XS , and was surprised at the increased length of the threaded portion of the p in that arrived. (Approx 3 times longer than removed pins). > > I rang Karen at the Europa factory to check that the part was of the corre ct specification. > > The reply was that the long pin was now standard , as supplied for the mod 52 (classic wing) modification, ie the pin is long enough to pass through t he mounting plates, and after cutting a hole in the underside (of the classi c) wing a flox resin pad is created under a washer and nylock nut, hence the longer thread. > > So a check assembly (dry run) should confirm if the installed pin length w ill allow the nut and washer to all fit. > > Or ring Karen first at the Europa factory and ask if the pins they stock a re the same size as the pin you have ( and the current part number) she is v ery helpful . > > PS when you go ahead get your inspectors sign off before you close up the a ccess hole ! > > Regards > > Kevin > > From: Tyler J <helidogtyler@gmail.com> > To: Europa-List@matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, 22 November 2012, 19:35 > Subject: Europa-List: Rear Wing Pins > > I just recently purchased a partially completed monowheel "classic" kit. T he rear wing pins have not been installed and I have all the parts for Mod 5 2. The pins with the Mod are sized W24/4 and because I was unsure whether t hey were the original W24 pin or new, I test fit them into the socket assem bly W26A,B,C and they fit perfectly. However, in reading Mod 74, it lists t he pins as W24/7. When reading Mod 52, in the body of the text talking abou t socket assembly, it relates the new W24/5 pin should be test fit. So, can someone tell me the difference between the W24/7, W24/5 and W24/4 terminolo gy as it relates to the pins? I know it is proabably a simple answer for th is esteemed group, but I appreciate any info as I am trying to increase my k nowledge of this wonderful aircraft. > > Tyler J. > http://www.matronics.com/contributuropa-List" rel="nofollow" target="_ blank">http://www.matronics.com/Nav.matronics.com/" rel="nofollow" target= "_blank">http://forums.matronics=============== == > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:10:21 AM PST US
    From: Frans Veldman <frans@privatepilots.nl>
    Subject: Re: Electrics
    On 11/24/2012 11:39 AM, Peter Field wrote: > Does anybody know what retains the cables pushed into the terminal block > (see photo)? The ignition circuit kill wires are the two white cables > and we have had some trouble with these not making a good connection. Apart from that they are not pushed fully home, as some others have mentioned, I see a few more worrying things. First, these wires should go to your ignition-switch and nowhere else. But within a very short distance I see a screw terminal (which are invented to connect lamp sockets to your house wiring - vibration free -, but are totally unsuitable for car purposes, let alone aircraft purposes), and some (soldered) connection within a shrink tube. Why is there not just a straigth cable going to your ignition switch? This is just asking for trouble, and it looks like your trouble already started. The vast majority of electrical failures are due to bad connections, so you should keep the amount of connections down to the absolute minimum, and where unavoidable, use high quality connectors (and houshold screw terminals do not in the least qualify for this). Furthermore it looks like some bare metal wires are poking out of the wires coming out of the screw terminal. I'm not sure what I'm seeing here but if these metal wires are connected to the ignition wire, they just have to touch anything and your ignition is killed. To elaborate more on connectors: The problem with these screw terminals is that they do not separate the electrical and mechanical connection. An electrical connection (clamping) creates a stress point in the metal, and any movement (vibration) focuses on this stress point using the rest of the wire as a lever, quickly causing metal fatigue and unexpected and unpredictable break of the wire. A good connector always has some way to retain the wire upstream of the electrical connection, so that the electrical connection point is absolutely free from any movement. (This also applies to soldering: Any solder joint should be free from any movement and vibration). For connecting a lamp socket to your house wiring that screw terminal is ok, because houses do not move or vibrate very often. If you ever have a carb going bad and your engine starts to shake or vibrate heavily, within a few minutes the wire will fall from the screw terminal. When that happens, the wire will dangle down and if it touches some metal it will kill the ignition. Frans


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:20:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake
    From: "graeme bird" <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
    My 912ULS runs too cool at around 80deg C, as I have the cowl home I am wondering about blocking some of the radiator air intake off, maybe half of it and adding a couple of LED landing lights. Some sort of variable vent might be best though. Any suggestions? -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Woodcomp 3000/W Newby: 35 hours g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388801#388801


    Message 7


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    Time: 05:03:42 PM PST US
    Subject: tri gear socket installation
    From: "fireflier" <fireflier@btinternet.com>
    Hello Today I have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a problem and wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they have overcome it? After taking my time setting everything up as per the build manual I inserted the gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the axle's in position against angled bar with the axle center line on fuselage station 70 and the axle end 36.75' from the fuselage center line. With all this set up the socket flanges are approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage. I tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made very little difference to the distance between socket flanges and the fuselage. I managed to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fuselage underside to ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm quoted in the build manual. I have attached some photos showing the gap between sockets and fuselage and also the position of the socket tubes within the baggage bays when inserted. Any comments or solutions to my problem would be much appreciated. Many thanks for taking the time in trying to help me find a solution to the problems I'm experiencing. Kind regards Donald -------- Fireflier Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388820 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_axle_494.jpeg http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_axle_172.jpeg http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_socket_position_in_baggage_bay_539.jpeg http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_leg_socket_188.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_socket_position_in_baggage_bay_886.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_leg_socket_744.jpeg


    Message 8


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    Time: 05:48:32 PM PST US
    From: "craig" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
    Subject: tri gear socket installation
    How long are your sockets from the bolt hole, to bottom of the tube, at the rear of the socket eg near the tail Mine measure at 245mm (9.5 inches), perhaps yours are longer than they should be. My gap when installed was about 4mm. Regards craig




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