Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:09 AM - Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution... (Matt Dralle)
1. 12:56 AM - Re: Electrics (Mark Burton)
2. 12:57 AM - Re: tri gear socket installation (Neville Eyre)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: tri gear socket installation (jglazener)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: Re: tri gear socket installation (Frans Veldman)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (Gilles Thesee)
6. 08:43 AM - starboard door (Max Cointe)
7. 09:46 AM - SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
8. 09:53 AM - Handheld with external antenna (Sidsel & Svein Johnsen)
9. 10:06 AM - Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (graeme bird)
10. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (David Watts)
11. 12:04 PM - Re: tri gear socket installation (K BURNS)
12. 12:07 PM - Re: tri gear socket installation (Bud Yerly)
13. 01:50 PM - Re: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (Bud Yerly)
14. 01:58 PM - Re: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (Frans Veldman)
Message 0
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Subject: | Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution... |
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short
days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support
is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully
it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the
Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there
is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums.
The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit
card, Paypal, or a personal check:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support
the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator
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Hello Peter,
If you want to remake those white-wire connections, I can supply you (for free)
with the correct crimp terminals (male & female) for that Rotax connector.
Cheers,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388904#388904
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Subject: | Re: tri gear socket installation |
Hi Donald,
1/2'' to 5/8'' gaps betwen the socket flange and the outer skin is not unus
ual, I could never work out where the variation came from ?
Most important is the ST 70 dimension.
Then ensure the track is true with the legs clamped to an angle straight ed
ge.Take measurements from tailplane torque tube ends to check this.
Then ensure the horizontal datum of the angle aligns with the aircrafts hor
izontal datum [ tailplane torque tube / wing spar bushes ].
Then check the lateral position from the aircrafts centre line [ also check
the positive camber of the axle shafts and adjust [ worsen] the side to si
de positioning to get the camber of the shafts nearer to each other.
Forget about closing up the gap between the socket flanges and the fuselage
skin.
If you can close up the gap [ dropping the fuselage ] without buggering up
any of the other parameters, well and good, otherwise go for it and use a t
hick Redux pad in the gap. I have slipped in some plywood shims to bulk out
the gap if it as large as you describe [ Redux is expensive, slivers of wo
od will be free !]
Other things I do different, the lay up of the socket to Rib 1, don't smear
Redux on the socket and do the lay up with Ampreg, do a HOT Redux lay up i
n 1 ply of Bid, 2'' onto each side of the Rib around the socket, peel ply a
nd let cure. Then do the lay ups as per Manual.
Do a hot Redux lay up on the outer face of the socket flange, peel ply etc,
before doing the 2 Bid lay up on to the skin. Do the hot Redux lay ups ont
o plastic sheet, wet out well, then slap it on like an elastoplast !
Ampreg doesn't stick too well to steel, and I don't like messing with two d
ifferent epoxy systems going wet on wet ?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: fireflier <fireflier@btinternet.com>
Sent: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 1:04
Subject: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
Hello
Today I have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a prob
lem
nd wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they have
vercome it?
After taking my time setting everything up as per the build manual I insert
ed
he gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the axle's in position aga
inst
ngled bar with the axle center line on fuselage station 70 and the axle end
6.75' from the fuselage center line. With all this set up the socket flang
es
re approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage.
I tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made very
ittle difference to the distance between socket flanges and the fuselage.
I
anaged to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fuselage undersi
de
o ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm quoted in the
uild manual.
I have attached some photos showing the gap between sockets and fuselage an
d
lso the position of the socket tubes within the baggage bays when inserted.
Any comments or solutions to my problem would be much appreciated.
Many thanks for taking the time in trying to help me find a solution to the
roblems I'm experiencing.
Kind regards
onald
--------
ireflier
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388820
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_axle_494.jpeg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_axle_172.jpeg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_socket_position_in_baggage_bay_
539.jpeg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_leg_socket_188.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/port_socket_position_in_baggage_bay_886.j
pg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/port_leg_socket_744.jpeg
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Subject: | Re: tri gear socket installation |
Donald,
Obviously, writing a post after Nev I have little to add on how to do things right.
I did however have the same problem and in my case at least it turned out
to be faulty measurements. There are quite a few variables and any one of them
can knock the measurements off. My garage for instance has a drain in the middle
and the floors slope very slightly towards that. I ended up having to grind
the whole lot out again. The second time round the plates did fit against
the skin. It really is worth checking everything 10 times to avoid that.
See:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44767
Regards,
--------
Jeroen
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388911#388911
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Subject: | Re: tri gear socket installation |
On 11/25/2012 03:41 PM, jglazener wrote:
> Obviously, writing a post after Nev I have little to add on how to do
> things right. I did however have the same problem and in my case at
> least it turned out to be faulty measurements. There are quite a few
> variables and any one of them can knock the measurements off. My
> garage for instance has a drain in the middle and the floors slope
> very slightly towards that.
To avoid this problem I welded two vertical bars to my build craddle
with adjustable ends, so I could attach an artificial floor straight
edge to it, and adjust everything independantly from the floor. This
might be a solution for you if your floor is not perfectly even, or when
you use a movable build craddle.
Also make sure you end up with some degree of toe in on the axles, as
the aircraft weight and roll friction will push the wheels outward a
little. This prevents the problem that the tires wear prematurely on the
inboard side. (After 200 hours, I still have even wear on the tires,
never had to swap or reverse them).
> It really is worth checking everything 10 times to avoid that.
Yep, don't rush it. It is hard to readjust later on.
Frans
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Subject: | Re: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake |
graeme bird a crit :
>
> My 912ULS runs too cool at around 80deg C, as I have the cowl home I am wondering
about blocking some of the radiator air intake off, maybe half of it and
adding a couple of LED landing lights. Some sort of variable vent might be best
though. Any suggestions?
>
Hi Graeme,
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_aerodyn_radia_en.php
http://contrails.free.fr/tunnel_en.php
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_air_inlets.php
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 6
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Hi There all,
To-day flight was cut short because the starboard (probably badly secured)
departed from the ship 10 mn after takeoff. As we speak we don't know where
it grounded but at least on quite on a no-man's land. Luckily no other
damage and normal flying back and landing.
Has anyone a complete starboard door available for sale (best would be with
bronze window but we'll consider every proposal)?
Max Cointe
F-PMLH Europa_TriGear
Kit #560 912ULS Airmaster 450 hours
<mailto:mcointe@free.fr> mcointe@free.fr
Message 7
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Subject: | Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake |
Graeme,
> My 912ULS runs too cool at around 80deg C, as I have the cowl home I am
> wondering about blocking some of the radiator air intake off, maybe half
of it
> and adding a couple of LED landing lights. Some sort of variable vent
might be
> best though. Any suggestions?
I have for several years flown in cold and hot weather with Van's variable
shutter in front of approx. 50% of the radiator - see attached photo (the
photo was taken before I installed an oil thermostat, so I have no plates in
front of the oil cooler anymore). My 912ULS has 50/50 glycol/water, and I
have not experienced problems even on hot airfields. However, to be on the
safe side if flying much in hot summers, the shutter can be removed in 30
minutes for such seasonal flying, as this will allow more air to pass
through the radiator.
I purchased the shutter fra Van's Aircraft in the US, and the Bowden cable
with accessories from Aircraft Spruce.
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 8
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Subject: | Handheld with external antenna |
Hi Max,
So sorry to read about your sudden cabriolet conversion.
Did you have a chance to test the Icom handheld with the external antenna
before this happened? If so, how did it work?
I have now purchased the AAE VHF-5T antenna, which I plan to fix vertically
to the fuselage inside skin on the right side behind the luggage bay
bulkhead (I have the transponder antenna on the left side). Any particular
recommendations (e.g. type of adhesive that you used).
Regards,
Svein
LN-SKJ
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake |
Thats very neat, thanks. I am wondering though if its really a problem to be running
at 80deg. I tend to get higher temps initially at take off which would
get rid of condensation etc. What happens when the engine is running warmer? I
cant see any particular reference in the Rotax manual.
I guess I could just tape over half of it with aluminium tape and see for now.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 45 hours
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388922#388922
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of |
intake
Graeme,
I always run with at least 50% of the radiator sealed off with duct tape
during the winter months down here in coldest (?) Kent on my monowheel/912S
Dave Watts
G-BXDY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of graeme bird
Sent: 25 November 2012 18:06
Subject: Europa-List: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of
intake
Thats very neat, thanks. I am wondering though if its really a problem to
be running at 80deg. I tend to get higher temps initially at take off which
would get rid of condensation etc. What happens when the engine is running
warmer? I cant see any particular reference in the Rotax manual.
I guess I could just tape over half of it with aluminium tape and see for
now.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 45 hours
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388922#388922
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: tri gear socket installation |
Donald,=0A-=0AThe build manual says:-=0A-"If necessary, to ensure that
the plate of the gear leg socket is against the side of the fuselage,move t
he=0Aaxles as required relative to the fuselage centreline keeping the axle
centres on FS70".=0A-=0ABy moving the legs in 1/2 an inch or so equaly o
n each side , you will close up the gap to a wedge shape, the manual also s
ugests the socket flanges can be adjusted to fit the profile better.=0A-
=0AMy fit was-close enougth-for an acceptable-redux filling, after ad
justing-the fuselage holes slightly, but it does appears that your legs n
eed to come together slightly-.=0A-=0A-=0AThere will be differences i
n exact positioning of the sockets due variations -to the elogation requi
red of the hole.=0A-=0ATwo-extra check measurement that I-found usefu
ll-were from a second angle iron ran through the cockpit, sat on the door
sills,pushed hard against the seat back, and dropped a plumbline from the
inboard end to find a measurement from the spar face reference points :-=0A
-Not e :- F S 70 is 2.25" aft of the forward face of the port spar=0A
-------------------------
-- 1.00 aft of the forward face of the Starboard spar.=0A-=0AMark up
the fuselage to get a measurement to transfer from your second angle iron /
-plumb line, stick a spirit level on the angle Iron to check it is all pa
rallel when setting up , and stand back an look at the job, making sure it
is all square...=0A-=0AAlso, make sure your build cradle is squared off o
n all corners, and can not move.=0A-=0AI set up a false floor with 3 laye
rs of 3/4 ply,screwed down onto a pallet, with a timber beam accross to scr
ew down and clamp on, you will end up spending days setting your measuremen
ts unless everything is fastened down solid.=0A-=0AFinaly, you can do a d
ry run by lifting the sockets and legs to a flush position ,an using the fi
rst wedge shaped ply brace, hold the assembly in possition , then look at t
he axle to see how far in it is sitting .=0A-=0AYou are trying to acheive
aligned axles on FS 70, within the factory height specified (prop clearanc
e)- 1/2 " or so different track width will make no significant difference
, and is the factory recomended solution per the manual.=0A-=0ARegards
=0A-=0AKevin=0A-=0A-=0A--=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A- =0A=0A_________
_______________________=0A From: fireflier <fireflier@btinternet.com>=0ATo:
europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, 25 November 2012, 1:02=0ASubjec
t: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation=0A =0A--> Europa-List message
posted by: "fireflier" <fireflier@btinternet.com>=0A=0AHello=0A=0AToday I
have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a problem and
wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they have ov
ercome it?=0A=0AAfter taking my time setting everything up as per the build
manual I inserted the gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the ax
le's in position against angled bar with the axle center line on fuselage s
tation 70 and the axle end 36.75' from the fuselage center line.- With al
l this set up the socket flanges are approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage.=0A
=0AI tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made v
ery little difference to the distance between socket flanges and the fusela
ge.- I managed to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fusela
ge underside to ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm
quoted in the build manual.=0A=0AI have attached some photos showing the g
ap between sockets and fuselage and also the position of the socket tubes w
ithin the baggage bays when inserted.=0A=0AAny comments or solutions to my
problem would be much appreciated.=0A=0AMany thanks for taking the time in
trying to help me find a solution to the problems I'm experiencing.=0A=0AKi
nd regards=0ADonald=0A=0A--------=0AFireflier=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic
online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388
820=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAttachments: =0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/por
t_axle_494.jpeg=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_axle_172.jpe
g=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_socket_position_in_baggage
_bay_539.jpeg=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_leg_socket_188
.jpg=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/port_socket_position_in_baggage_b
ay_886.jpg=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/port_leg_socket_744.jpeg=0A
==
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: tri gear socket installation |
Nev, Donald, and others having tri gear concerns.
Nev is right that the gap is really not that much of a concern
especially at 5-8 mm. Organizing the project for efficiency of work
comes with practice.
The adjustment of the height of the fuselage to gear plane is one
excellent way to make and adjustment to the fit. Just don't get too
carried away, keep it close to the vertical distance in the book, which
keeps the tail from being too low (nose gear higher means banging it
more often) or too high which increases the camber angle making tire
wear increase.
I do bend the flanges a bit to allow me not to have to use as much
Redux. Then just bond it in.
Unlike Nev, I prefer to glue in the cleaned and dimpled metal sockets
first and allow to cure, then put in Rib one the next day. If working
alone, I put in both rib ones and let them partially cure, getting a
long coffee break. If working with an assistant, we return when the
ribs are firm and apply Aeropoxy or Ampreg flox to fill the gaps at the
walls and smooth our Redux job a bit and apply more Redux to the leg
face for a good bond and follow with the number one layups. If we are
making good time, we lay on rib two with Redux then take a quick lunch
break. We come back and while the Redux is a bit sticky but the rib is
in firmly, we lay in more flox and glass it up. Then I allow it to cure
with a bit of peel ply. That makes for a really long day though.
However, if you're not on with your glassing MOJO, as the kids say, then
I do rib two the next day. Of course you can gather that the one and
two ribs are carefully cut to a tight fit and ready to install before
hand. In a perfect world, the next day I do the trimming of the three
and four ribs and install them. Your back will really need a break when
done. Then take the gear out and glass in the bottom.
If working alone, and if the top is on already, work gets slowed down a
bit, so one rib a day is normally the rule. It is getting winter time,
so heating of the project is necessary so it also tends to slow the
project a bit.
>From start to finish, one week to get the plane level and set, ribs in
and legs on. That leaves the next week to get the wheels and brakes in
and operating, and the plane rolling. Week three is needed for the
wheel pants and such. Then you need a much deserved break but only a
short one, as there is more to do. Getting the monowheel hole closed up
and figure how to get a lower access hole installed and fuel lines
cleaned up and accessories in that big old cockpit module hole.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Neville Eyre<mailto:neveyre@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
Hi Donald,
1/2'' to 5/8'' gaps betwen the socket flange and the outer skin is not
unusual, I could never work out where the variation came from ?
Most important is the ST 70 dimension.
Then ensure the track is true with the legs clamped to an angle
straight edge.Take measurements from tailplane torque tube ends to check
this.
Then ensure the horizontal datum of the angle aligns with the
aircrafts horizontal datum [ tailplane torque tube / wing spar bushes ].
Then check the lateral position from the aircrafts centre line [ also
check the positive camber of the axle shafts and adjust [ worsen] the
side to side positioning to get the camber of the shafts nearer to each
other.
Forget about closing up the gap between the socket flanges and the
fuselage skin.
If you can close up the gap [ dropping the fuselage ] without
buggering up any of the other parameters, well and good, otherwise go
for it and use a thick Redux pad in the gap. I have slipped in some
plywood shims to bulk out the gap if it as large as you describe [ Redux
is expensive, slivers of wood will be free !]
Other things I do different, the lay up of the socket to Rib 1, don't
smear Redux on the socket and do the lay up with Ampreg, do a HOT Redux
lay up in 1 ply of Bid, 2'' onto each side of the Rib around the socket,
peel ply and let cure. Then do the lay ups as per Manual.
Do a hot Redux lay up on the outer face of the socket flange, peel ply
etc, before doing the 2 Bid lay up on to the skin. Do the hot Redux lay
ups onto plastic sheet, wet out well, then slap it on like an
elastoplast !
Ampreg doesn't stick too well to steel, and I don't like messing with
two different epoxy systems going wet on wet ?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: fireflier <fireflier@btinternet.com>
To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 1:04
Subject: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
<fireflier@btinternet.com<mailto:fireflier@btinternet.com>>
Hello
Today I have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a
problem
and wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they
have
overcome it?
After taking my time setting everything up as per the build manual I
inserted
the gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the axle's in position
against
angled bar with the axle center line on fuselage station 70 and the axle
end
36.75' from the fuselage center line. With all this set up the socket
flanges
are approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage.
I tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made
very
little difference to the distance between socket flanges and the
fuselage. I
managed to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fuselage
underside
to ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm quoted in
the
build manual.
I have attached some photos showing the gap between sockets and fuselage
and
also the position of the socket tubes within the baggage bays when
inserted.
Any comments or solutions to my problem would be much appreciated.
Many thanks for taking the time in trying to help me find a solution to
the
problems I'm experiencing.
Kind regards
Donald
--------
Fireflier
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388820<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388820>
Attachments:
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Message 13
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Subject: | Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of |
intake
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According to Rotax there is not a technical minimum cylinder temp but I
agree that we know that a warmer cylinder will be more efficient and the
crankcase and gearbox will not harbor water in the case.
The oil thermostat is one way to get up the oil temp. I have tried to
make a simple rear flap to close up the back but you would not believe
the pressure coming out of the rear of those radiators and the duct
suction pulling on the other side of the flap. A moveable cowl flap
will work, but then we're talking repaint of the cowl. So how do we get
the glycol temp up? Tape over 1/3 of the glycol cooler is a start.
Next is making a removable metal air dam in front of the glycol cooler,
but that is not adjustable. So what is needed is an adjustable flap
that can be set from the cockpit for those warmer winter days, spring
and fall operations or high altitude cruise operations.
Those adjustable slotted cooler shutters are a solution. Unless you
need every bit of cooling air in the summer like I do here in Florida.
Mark Ferkin of High wing LLC (Kitfox guy of fame) makes a shutter for
the Rotax coolers. It doesn't work well for our setup but the concept
works.
Van's aircraft has the slotted flap as addressed above and used on other
Northern Europa's but it does block the air needed for summer options.
For oil cooling, I have installed the oil thermostat and it is very
convenient and automatic so I'm waiting for it to fail...
I really have only one idea for a moveable Europa style XS coolers with
a two inch drop of the oil cooler. If you have one of my cockpit
heaters be sure to leave a cutout for the heater or the cockpit heat
gets shut off. See below:
Regards,
Bud Yerly
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Just a simple hinge setup with a flapper door to block the air
coming out of the glycol cooler and pivoted near the center to reduce
pull and hold forces. An oil cooler thermostat takes care of the oil
temps.
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I really thought this would work but the force to hold the flap
shut against the air outflow from the coolers (and draw of the cowl
ramp) is considerable for a hinged flap at the leading edge.
----- Original Message -----
From: graeme bird<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 1:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking
some of intake
<graeme@gdbmk.co.uk<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>>
Thats very neat, thanks. I am wondering though if its really a
problem to be running at 80deg. I tend to get higher temps initially at
take off which would get rid of condensation etc. What happens when the
engine is running warmer? I cant see any particular reference in the
Rotax manual.
I guess I could just tape over half of it with aluminium tape and see
for now.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 45 hours
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
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Message 14
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Subject: | Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some |
of intake
On 11/25/2012 07:06 PM, graeme bird wrote:
> Thats very neat, thanks. I am wondering though if its really a
> problem to be running at 80deg.
There are a few reasons to keep the engine temperature higher:
1) Wear of the engine. Different parts of the engine expand at different
rates when the engine gets warmer. Ideally, you have the engine running
always at the same temperature, so all the parts wear in for exactly
that specific temperature, and fit nicely together around that specific
temperature, without too much friction of leakage. If the temperature
changes, friction in some parts increases, and other parts become too
sloppy. So, aim to keep the engine always wearing at the same
temperature. For that reason, I always keep my engine at 115C and avoid
wear at other temperatures. 80C could also if you manage to keep the
engine running at that temperature during the summer, but then there are
still a couple of other reasons to aim for a higher temperature:
2) Efficiency. The engine gets its energy from burning fuel, more
exactly from producing heat, the temperature difference between the
pressure of the air before and after the combustion. Ideally, there
would be no losses. Unfortunately, we have to cool the engine, and by
cooling we take precious energy away. The more we cool, the more we harm
the efficiency. So to get the most bang for the buck, you will want to
run the engine as hot as possible... without melting some parts. For the
Rotax, this sweet point is close to 115C, which is a safe distance from
135C where the cylinder heads become soft and start to deform.
3) Condensation. Byproduct of combustion is water. Part of the
combustion gasses including the water is escaping between the pistons
and cylinder walls, anything below 100C will condensate this water. So.
the condensation in the engine is not just something like the
condensation in the fuel tank, but is actually produced at a high rate
during your flight. (Don't underestimate the amount of these so called
blow-by gasses; these gasses are actually responsible for transporting
the oil back from the crankcase into the oil tank). If you run the
engine at 80C you will collect a lot of water in the engine, and due to
other substances in the fuel, the water will have a low pH and eat away
the engine. If your engine only gets hot during take off, it is not
sufficient to boil away all the water, and the water collected during
the cruise will remain in the engine until the next take off, which
might be a long time away, especially in the winter. So, it is best to
keep the oil temp during the cruise above 100C to avoid collecting too
much water.
(You won't find the water at the bottom of the oil tank except in
extreme cases, as the oil is formulated to keep a lot of water in
suspension, but still this suspended water is corrosive and also worsens
lubrication.)
Frans
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