Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some of intake (Bud Yerly)
2. 03:44 PM - Re: Oil in Turbo on 914 (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking some |
of intake
Good for blocking the air bypassing, but we need a flap to actually stop
the air going to or from the cooler to warm up the oil.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: mau11<mailto:mau11@free.fr>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Europa-List: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering
blocking some of intake
Hi Bud I send to you a drawing of my Coolers flap.
Michel AUVRAY
Builder 145
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From: Bud Yerly<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Date: 2012-11-25 22:49
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering
blocking some of intake
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According to Rotax there is not a technical minimum cylinder temp but
I agree that we know that a warmer cylinder will be more efficient and
the crankcase and gearbox will not harbor water in the case.
The oil thermostat is one way to get up the oil temp. I have tried to
make a simple rear flap to close up the back but you would not believe
the pressure coming out of the rear of those radiators and the duct
suction pulling on the other side of the flap. A moveable cowl flap
will work, but then we're talking repaint of the cowl. So how do we get
the glycol temp up? Tape over 1/3 of the glycol cooler is a start.
Next is making a removable metal air dam in front of the glycol cooler,
but that is not adjustable. So what is needed is an adjustable flap
that can be set from the cockpit for those warmer winter days, spring
and fall operations or high altitude cruise operations.
Those adjustable slotted cooler shutters are a solution. Unless you
need every bit of cooling air in the summer like I do here in Florida.
Mark Ferkin of High wing LLC (Kitfox guy of fame) makes a shutter for
the Rotax coolers. It doesn't work well for our setup but the concept
works.
Van's aircraft has the slotted flap as addressed above and used on
other Northern Europa's but it does block the air needed for summer
options.
For oil cooling, I have installed the oil thermostat and it is very
convenient and automatic so I'm waiting for it to fail...
I really have only one idea for a moveable Europa style XS coolers
with a two inch drop of the oil cooler. If you have one of my cockpit
heaters be sure to leave a cutout for the heater or the cockpit heat
gets shut off. See below:
Regards,
Bud Yerly
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Just a simple hinge setup with a flapper door to block the air
coming out of the glycol cooler and pivoted near the center to reduce
pull and hold forces. An oil cooler thermostat takes care of the oil
temps.
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y=!APxkChnz5qtFle0>
I really thought this would work but the force to hold the flap
shut against the air outflow from the coolers (and draw of the cowl
ramp) is considerable for a hinged flap at the leading edge.
----- Original Message -----
From: graeme bird<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 1:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: SV: Running too cool, considering blocking
some of intake
<graeme@gdbmk.co.uk<mailto:graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>>
Thats very neat, thanks. I am wondering though if its really a
problem to be running at 80deg. I tend to get higher temps initially at
take off which would get rid of condensation etc. What happens when the
engine is running warmer? I cant see any particular reference in the
Rotax manual.
I guess I could just tape over half of it with aluminium tape and
see for now.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 45 hours
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in Turbo on 914 |
Brad,
I agree with Frans. Disconnecting the airbox won't kill the engine, as
it will start and run, like and 80 horse, but it is not made for that.
(Although I have flown with the turbo inop, but it does take care and
knowledge.
First, the oil seep into the turbo is normal and irritating.
Oil will get into the inlet and the exhaust side. Get some mild
degreaser or dishwashing soap and water, as you will need it after
start. The oil coming out of the exhaust will coat the underside and
gear.
If the plane has sat for a few months, pull the air filter, and clean
the filter if it is saturated.
Put a small piece of tubing and syringe to suck out the excess oil out
of the cool side of the turbo or the carbs and sensors will get an oil
bath.
Be sure to burp the engine and it may be wise to pull the top plugs and
spin the engine until the oil pressure rises to at least 60 psi or 4
bars and continue cranking for 30 seconds to assure yourself that your
lifters have oil in them. If all is well, then install the air filter
and start it up and run it at 2200 or so until hot.
Failure to ensure your hydraulic lifters are full and pressurized will
result in engine failure. And it is very sudden. The Rotax is a superb
engine, but it needs oil and coolant constantly.
Your turbo oil leak is due to the oil ball check in the small line to
the turbo. That should be disconnected and cleaned and checked that the
ball seats properly into the bolt. Any small corrosion or crud will
keep the oil feeding from the tank to the supply side of the oil pump
and fill the turbo quite quickly after shutdown. It is nasty to do, but
I will put the ball into its seat, roll it around to assure it is seated
and blow with my mouth to check the seal. It may look like it is
sealed, but small imperfections in the seat will cause a leak. Check
that you have the new spring also. Depends on your year model.
If the oil begins leaking out of the sump can, get a gasket set and put
in a new O ring and gaskets. Follow the Rotax manual completely and do
not over-torque the fittings.
If you intend to not fly your 914 for long periods, you should consider
following the procedure for engine storage in the Rotax Operators and
line maintenance manuals available on line. Otherwise, things get
gummed up, seals will fail in the water pump, gearbox seals will dry
out, the gears will corrode, etc. Purge your oil system of all air IAW
the Rotax instructions before start.
For coolant I use glycol, but Evans coolant seems to corrode less at the
fittings than the Evans. Evans does not seem to transfer heat as fast
and with glycol I can keep my temps cooler down here in Florida with our
sized radiator and ducting. Up north, Evans is fine.
If you can, run the engine every two weeks to a full warm up and taxi to
run up to keep it cleaned out.
The key to a reliable aircraft is to exercise it often, maintain it by
the book and do a thorough 25 hour inspection at oil change intervals.
If mine sits three to six months, I open the carbs, and do a 100 hour
inspection on the engine, because I know it will not be reliable enough
to jump in and fly off somewhere.
I put in fresh fuel and oil. Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 semi synthetic is
good oil, but it does get gummy with time as any oil does. I prefer
Mobile MX4T or Racing T (but only with unleaded fuel) as it is cleaner
and lubes very well over time without gumming up, however, it is thin
and does fill my turbo quickly after a few days..
Airframe wise:
I keep my battery on a battery tender and take the Odessy to the dealer
every couple of years for a deep cycle. Visit the plane every two weeks
like visiting an old friend and check it over, fill the tires, and look
for leaks. Cycle the battery on and start it up and check all the
systems. Then if the sun is shinning, go for a quick flight to exercise
your own skills.
Best regards.
Bud Yerly
Tech support.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Shafer<mailto:bshafer708@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 3:30 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Oil in Turbo on 914
<bshafer708@gmail.com<mailto:bshafer708@gmail.com>>
Looking for some advice. My 914 hasn't been run for about 18 months.
Oil has
been collecting in the bottom of the turbo. I have the hose between
the
turbo and intercooler disconnected and I can suck up oil with paper
towels
in that opening. After about 2 months, the oil leaks back in. Any
suggestions on what could be causing this? And can I run the engine
with the
turbo to intercooler to intake disconnected? I'm assuming it would
just run
like a 912 but not sure. I would only do that for testing.
Thanks,
Brad
Europa XS with Rotax 914
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