Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:09 AM - Re: PV 50 propellor (Mark Burton)
2. 11:18 AM - Re: Fuel sight tube (Bud Yerly)
3. 12:25 PM - Radio and wiring (William Bliss)
4. 12:41 PM - Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? (G-ODTW)
5. 02:11 PM - Re: Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? (Trevor Pond)
6. 05:07 PM - Re: Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: PV 50 propellor |
Hi Frank,
Yes, I have a PV-50 for sale. Please contact me off list if you are interested.
Cheers,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=391068#391068
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sight tube |
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Q>
Will,
Your sight gauge woes are common. Attached is a visual of what the
problem is. Essentially any fuel trapped in the vent side of your sight
system above the fuel tank fuel level adversely affects the fuel level
in the clear sight tube.
Not to insult intelligence of anyone, but the only way to keep the sight
tube vent side clear is to run it uphill all the way to the vent. I
personally don't like the overhead vent because the low pressure area
over the top of the aircraft creates changes in the sight tube level
also. To remove some of that problem, I prefer folks to put a tee in
the fill neck to allow the tank and the sight tube to be the same air
pressure. That said, running the sight tube vent side so that fuel can
never be trapped in the line on a mono or trigear is very difficult. At
times for a tail dragger, it is impossible. I have a sight gauge in my
trigear that works flawlessly. But it runs above the tank, downhill
from the top of the fill tube. But it still can get fuel in my vent
side. I know mono owners that have very accurate sight tubes but took
great care not to trap fuel in their upper line. Following Chapter 30
of the build manual, it shows a method to run the foot mounted sight
tube and it works well normally at cruise speed.
Most government regulations on aircraft require some means to visually
determine the amount of fuel in the fuel tanks by the pilot during
preflight because electronic gauges and senders are prone to their own
inaccuracies. I have a sight gauge, a fuel quantity gauge, a fuel
totalizer, and a wrist watch and knowledge of my engine's fuel usage per
hour. I also carry a small piece of tubing which inserts into the
inside of the fuel neck on to the tee to blow out any trapped fuel that
some line boy fueling my aircraft injected into my sight gauge line.
Talk about the department of redundant redundancy.
In the analysis from years of tinkering on quite a few aircraft: The
Europa electric fuel gauge works pretty well for a resistance unit. The
capacitance types work OK unless you change fuel from 100LL to auto fuel
as the capacitance is different leading to inaccuracies. Fuel flow
senders work generally well.
On my 914 I have a JPI. If I set the fuel on the totalizer accurately,
it is dead on accurate. The Grand Rapids dual flow are OK but require a
bit of setup tinkering then are quite good. The 912 and 912S do not use
a return flow meter and are OK but no system on these engines works
perfect, but it is close. Dynon newer systems like the Skyview use dual
fuel senders and seem OK, but all the older units can only use one
sender and are fairly accurate on the 912 series engines. Sight gauges
are a necessity to assure you that you have sufficient fuel to complete
a mission unless you always top off before any flight and land well
before a fuel low situation. I just never find myself in those
circumstances...
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Tech Support
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----- Original Message -----
From: William Bliss<mailto:william@wbliss.co.uk>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 5:58 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel sight tube
<william@wbliss.co.uk<mailto:william@wbliss.co.uk>>
Dear All
My fuel sight tube is about to be renewed. It does not seem to be very
accurate. Is there a more reliable installation position than the
pilot
footwell?
Will Bliss G-WUFF
-----
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Radio and wiring |
Dear All again. Trust you have had a good xmas and are looking forwards
to 2013.
Mr father in law and I have been trying to figure out what fried my
Narco com earth terminals. Think we found the cause but have some
questions for any avionics knowledgeables out there.
The most likely current path was battery +ve to external charging point
connection (no fuse in that wire) and across to the aerial earth (quite
possible that a metal aerial interconnector could have touched the
charging point +ve terminal as they are in close proximity). The aerial
earth is in connection with the radio case and radio/transponder tray.
The radio/transponder tray is not earthed so the current returned to the
battery via the radio earth terminal - which fried.
I will be looking closely at the siting of wires and insulation to try
and ensure no contacts can occur - but should be ensuring that such
contact will not do any damage.
You won't be surprised to see that the questions are about earths and fuses;
1. Should the metal radio/transponder tray be connected to earth?
2. I cannot find a fuse protecting the main bus bar. The master switch
works through a solenoid which connects battery direct to main bus bar.
Is it advisable to have a panel mounted 25amp circuit breaker between
battery and main bus bar? If it tripped I could then turn off selected
circuits and reset this 25amp circuit breaker and attempt to diagnose
the fault.
3. What fuse amperage would suit the requirements of an external battery
charging point? Is it best connected directly to the battery +ve terminal?
Hope the weather where you are is better than it is where I am
William Bliss
Message 4
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| Subject: | Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? |
I thought it a good idea to get my tailplanes balanced before I put my top on.
They needed filling (I used Ampreg21/Expancel as per Europa manual) & then will
need painting. But I am now finding it a heck of a job to sand the filler. After
2 days of it, I have had enough. The sandpaper constantly clogs, and it is
bl**** hard work - And my Classic wings are much bigger than the tail!
Some people seem instead to use Superfil. But I am also told that SP106 is the
resin many people use for the surface filling job, which sands without problems,
presumably with the supplied Expancel.
Many folk have trodden this path before me, using many methods. 20 years on, is
there now a "best practice" for filling / sanding / painting?
All advice greatfully received. Thanks. Dave Walters.
--------
David Walters
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=391094#391094
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? |
Hi David,
You need to have a word with Neville Eyre - there isn't a soul on the planet who
knows more about "rubbing down" Europa's.
Nev can be contacted be email on this forum.
Regards
Trev Pond
G-LINN
Sent from my iPhone
On 28 Dec 2012, at 20:40, "G-ODTW" <dave@robotas.co.uk> wrote:
>
> I thought it a good idea to get my tailplanes balanced before I put my top on.
They needed filling (I used Ampreg21/Expancel as per Europa manual) & then will
need painting. But I am now finding it a heck of a job to sand the filler.
After 2 days of it, I have had enough. The sandpaper constantly clogs, and it
is bl**** hard work - And my Classic wings are much bigger than the tail!
> Some people seem instead to use Superfil. But I am also told that SP106 is the
resin many people use for the surface filling job, which sands without problems,
presumably with the supplied Expancel.
>
> Many folk have trodden this path before me, using many methods. 20 years on,
is there now a "best practice" for filling / sanding / painting?
>
> All advice greatfully received. Thanks. Dave Walters.
>
> --------
> David Walters
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=391094#391094
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL? SP106? |
Dave=0AI use a 1/6 by volume addition of Cabosil (colloidal silica) mixed w
ith the expancell. It enables about 50% more expancell to be added to the s
ame amount of resin.=0AIt is best to be consistent as possible with the amo
unt of resin and expancell you mix to avoid variations in the filler=0ASupe
rfil is an easier solution but expensive. For rough sanding I use a very sh
arp small wood plane, (Russ Lefevre gave me that tip) it cuts through the i
ncompletely-=0Acured resin: the heat of sanding softens the resin unless
it is fully cured, (which takes days,) and that clogs the paper.=0AGraham
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: G-ODTW <dave@robotas.co.
uk>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, 28 December 2012, 20:4
0=0ASubject: Europa-List: Filling/Painting Classic wings & Tail. SUPERFIL?
k>=0A=0AI thought it a good idea to get my tailplanes balanced before I put
my top on. They needed filling (I used Ampreg21/Expancel as per Europa man
ual) & then will need painting. But I am now finding it a heck of a job to
sand the filler. After 2 days of it, I have had enough. The sandpaper const
antly clogs, and it is bl**** hard work - And my Classic wings are much big
ger than the tail!=0ASome people seem instead to use Superfil. But I am als
o told that SP106 is the resin many people use for the surface filling job,
which sands without problems, presumably with the supplied Expancel.=0A=0A
Many folk have trodden this path before me, using many methods. 20 years on
, is there now a "best practice" for filling / sanding / painting?=0A=0AAll
advice greatfully received. Thanks. Dave Walters.=0A=0A--------=0ADavid Wa
lters=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matroni
- - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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