Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:58 AM - Carburettor Float Settings (Carl Pattinson)
2. 02:02 AM - Re: Throttle Stops (Carl Pattinson)
3. 02:30 AM - Re: Throttle Stops (Duncan & Ami)
4. 02:47 AM - Re: Throttle Stops (Duncan & Ami)
5. 02:48 AM - Re: Throttle Stops (Duncan & Ami)
6. 03:08 AM - Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 06/01/13 (Tony Renshaw)
7. 03:22 AM - AW: Door Seals and poor fit to Fuselage (A. Buess - Aviatik)
8. 06:10 AM - Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets........P.S. (Tony Renshaw)
9. 08:11 AM - Re: Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets........P.S. (Pete)
10. 09:37 AM - Re: Carburettor Float Settings (Jerry Rehn)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: Door Seals and poor fit to Fuselage (Mike Gamble)
12. 10:01 AM - Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Jerry Rehn)
13. 10:05 AM - Fw: Carburettor Float Settings (Jerry Rehn)
14. 10:10 AM - Carb float settings Rorax 9xx (Jerry Rehn)
15. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 06/01/13 (Bud Yerly)
16. 10:39 AM - Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Bud Yerly)
17. 11:26 AM - Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Matthew Carpenter)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Jerry Rehn)
19. 12:42 PM - How do I order Mod 77 for a Europa XS Trigear? (Jeffrey Williams)
20. 06:29 PM - Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Jerry Rehn)
21. 07:46 PM - Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking (Matthew Carpenter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Carburettor Float Settings |
Hi,
Has anyone used the proper Rotax tool for setting the float levels.
We have just overhauled the carburettors using the Bing overhaul kit
(nearly
=A3300 from Skydrive) ' this was long overdue and should be done
every 5
years. I assumed that the supplied float operating arm would be factory
set
but it seems this is not the case.
According to the maintenance manual, a special tool should be used which
I
understand can be hired from Skydrive for a nominal charge. Looking at
the
manual it looks as though the float arms need to be parallel to the main
carb body but I could be wrong in this assumption.
The upshot of the overhaul has been a rough running engine which upon
investigation looks like a weak mixture. Conrad Beales website says that
if
you remove the float bowls after running the engine the fuel level
should be
1=928 =93 (3mm) from the top of the bowl ' we had nearer 8- 10 mm.
Looks like
we need to order up the setting tool and do the job properly.
So back to the original question ' anyone used the adjustment tool and
how
easy was this. Failing this is there another better way.
I spoke briefly to Kevin Dilks and he suggested that the float arms
should
be parallel(as above) but I=92m not sure this is a precise enough
setting.
PS: thanks all for your comments on THROTTLE STOPS ' I am inclined to
agree
with Duncan in his observation that the carb stops are the main ones
that
can be overridden by applying gentle backpressure on the throttle lever
to
give a usefully reduced RPM on descent ' with the cockpit stop acting
as the
safety backup to prevent damaging the carb throttle arms etc.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan &
Ami
Sent: 01 June 2013 08:53
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful
to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed
closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is
deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits
any
excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful
facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any
case will still always be well above the static setting, as the forward
motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate backpressure on the
lever
is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Pattinson
Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that
we
should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the
cockpit).
I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors
have
their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as
you
increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the
throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the
cockpit stop.
We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running
with a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the
stop block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are
resetting the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to
be
addressed ' it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the
throttle stop.
Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I
note
that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no
explanation as to why.
I=92m sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some light
on
this.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron
href
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It does make a difference =93 on our setup with the engine idling
normally (carb throttle arm touching the carb stops) we get 2,000 RPM
=93 apply back pressure and the RPM drops to 1,700 RPM =93
release pressure and the RMP goes back up. The distance between the
throttle lever and the backstop is about 2 =93 3 mm when no
pressure applied.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk
Sent: 01 June 2013 13:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
+1
Confused of Southampton
On 01/06/2013 09:21, David Watts wrote:
Duncan,
You've got me there. Surely if you have already pulled the throttle back
to the stop on the carb., pulling the lever any more will not make any
difference at all. Unless I am missing something.
Dave Watts
G-BXDY Classic Monowheel (Still just short of 2000hrs. But at least we
are now flying again from our previously waterlogged airfield, so
another week should see us over the magic number, and loving every
minute of it)
On 1 Jun 2013, at 08:52, "Duncan & Ami" <ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net>
wrote:
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first,
followed closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever
is deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This
limits any excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides
a useful facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight
(which in any case will still always be well above the static setting,
as the forward motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate
backpressure on the lever is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
Message 3
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Dave,
You're missing the elasticity of the throttle stops on the carbs (just
bent
bits of mild steel), which are sufficiently springy to drop idle rpm by
a
couple of hundred.
DMcF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Watts
Sent: 01 June 2013 09:21
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
Duncan,
You've got me there. Surely if you have already pulled the throttle back
to
the stop on the carb., pulling the lever any more will not make any
difference at all. Unless I am missing something.
Dave Watts
G-BXDY Classic Monowheel (Still just short of 2000hrs. But at least we
are
now flying again from our previously waterlogged airfield, so another
week
should see us over the magic number, and loving every minute of it)
On 1 Jun 2013, at 08:52, "Duncan & Ami" <ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net>
wrote:
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful
to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed
closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is
deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits
any
excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful
facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any
case will still always be well above the static setting, as the forward
motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate backpressure on the
lever
is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Pattinson
Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that
we
should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the
cockpit).
I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors
have
their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as
you
increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the
throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the
cockpit stop.
We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running
with a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the
stop block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are
resetting the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to
be
addressed - it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the
throttle stop.
Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I
note
that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no
explanation as to why.
I'm sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some light on
this.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron
href
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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=========
Message 4
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I should add that it also makes a big difference to the smoothness of
engine
shutdown; switch off one mag, pull back on throttle lever just as rpm
dips
then switch off the other mag. The engine slows to a graceful stop.
DMcF.
-----Original Message-----
From: Duncan & Ami [mailto:ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net]
Sent: 02 June 2013 10:30
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
Dave,
You're missing the elasticity of the throttle stops on the carbs (just
bent
bits of mild steel), which are sufficiently springy to drop idle rpm by
a
couple of hundred.
DMcF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Watts
Sent: 01 June 2013 09:21
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
Duncan,
You've got me there. Surely if you have already pulled the throttle back
to
the stop on the carb., pulling the lever any more will not make any
difference at all. Unless I am missing something.
Dave Watts
G-BXDY Classic Monowheel (Still just short of 2000hrs. But at least we
are
now flying again from our previously waterlogged airfield, so another
week
should see us over the magic number, and loving every minute of it)
On 1 Jun 2013, at 08:52, "Duncan & Ami" <ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net>
wrote:
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful
to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed
closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is
deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits
any
excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful
facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any
case will still always be well above the static setting, as the forward
motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate backpressure on the
lever
is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Pattinson
Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that
we
should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the
cockpit).
I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors
have
their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as
you
increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the
throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the
cockpit stop.
We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running
with a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the
stop block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are
resetting the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to
be
addressed - it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the
throttle stop.
Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I
note
that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no
explanation as to why.
I'm sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some light on
this.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron
href
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
=========
cs.com
=========
matronics.com/contribution
=========
Message 5
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Carl,
Thank you for understanding my email, no pills needed!
DMcF
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Pattinson
Sent: 02 June 2013 10:02
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
It does make a difference =93 on our setup with the engine idling
normally (carb throttle arm touching the carb stops) we get 2,000 RPM
=93 apply back pressure and the RPM drops to 1,700 RPM =93
release pressure and the RMP goes back up. The distance between the
throttle lever and the backstop is about 2 =93 3 mm when no
pressure applied.
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk
Sent: 01 June 2013 13:11
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
+1
Confused of Southampton
On 01/06/2013 09:21, David Watts wrote:
Duncan,
You've got me there. Surely if you have already pulled the throttle back
to the stop on the carb., pulling the lever any more will not make any
difference at all. Unless I am missing something.
Dave Watts
G-BXDY Classic Monowheel (Still just short of 2000hrs. But at least we
are now flying again from our previously waterlogged airfield, so
another week should see us over the magic number, and loving every
minute of it)
On 1 Jun 2013, at 08:52, "Duncan & Ami" <ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net>
wrote:
Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's
useful to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first,
followed closely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever
is deliberately pulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This
limits any excess strain that can be applied to the cables, but provides
a useful facility to temporarily pull down the idle speed in flight
(which in any case will still always be well above the static setting,
as the forward motion drives the prop). As soon as the deliberate
backpressure on the lever is released, 'normal service' is resumed
This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is
helpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
Duncan McF.
http://www.matron===================
<=EF=BD - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS via the Web -->
http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous
=EF=BD -Matt http://www.matronics.com/c=
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 06/01/13 |
Gidday,
Thanks to Richard Wheelwright, Richard Collings, and Ron Parigoris for their replies
regarding TE Lift Pin Sockets. I had to move all 4 of my lift pin socket
plates from the sides of the fuselage, due to them being in the wrong position,
and no, my dimensions are correct. A bunch of other builders, well at least
one other, have had to move plates. So, the rear plates were extracted and moved
from the outside due to access with the cockpit module in the way. Suffice
to say I have a buildup over the plates that whilst over the top of the plates
it is flat, as you migrate outward, I have multiple plies of cloth including
the mandatory 4 plies of BID for reinforcement. So, whilst I like curves of the
feminine sense, I hate them otherwise. I've got curves going off in all directions
and I'm just hopeless at the trial and error of shaping ply. I have an
admission, I love car bog. Polyester resin mixed with talc. Easy to sand, easy
to shape. I am wondering if rather than ply I could apply car bog over the plate
area, shape it nicely, and then layup over the top of it. It aint going to
crack away or migrate anywhere as it is captive by the BID, and should remain
"in"compressible, certainly no more than ply. Or, if the car bog is the issue,
why not apply it, shape it, splash it, fill it with redux and flox, and redux
it back on? I can build most of the kit but when it comes to multiple fit and
sand, fit and sand, etc, I know most will think it an easy thing, but I struggle
and simply don't enjoy it. So, any other options??
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Whingy Aussie
On 02/06/2013, at 5:01 PM, Europa-List Digest Server <europa-list@matronics.com>
wrote:
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:55:53 AM PST US
> From: Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
>
> Tony,=0A--- Depending on the thickness you need. I used waste from th
> e tri-gear leg sockets ribs. I cut a 2 1/2 inch circle with a hole saw, the
> n it was cut down through its edge at the angel needed to contour the side
> of the fuselage. Worked a treat.=0A=0A===========
> =========0A=0ARichard Wheelwright=0A======
> ==============0A =0A=0A__________________________
> ______=0A From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list@m
> atronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, 1 June 2013, 9:17=0ASubject: Europa-List: R
> ear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List messag
> e posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0A=0AI would like to r
> equest advice regarding methods of shaping the ply inserts for the rear Tra
> iling Edge Lift Pin Sockets if anyone has digressed from the manual, either
> by material/medium or method. Thanks.=0ARegards=0ATony Renshaw=0ASydney Au
> ==================
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:27:53 AM PST US
> From: "richard" <rcollings@talktalk.net>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
>
> I did the same as Richard W , I drew a circle on a piece of the 12mm
> plywood the same dia as the bracket tried it in place with the wings in
> position then once I had the thickness correct blended out from the
> bracket circle to the edge this made the outside dia about 3 1/2 inches
> . Then glue and glass as per manual. Good luck Richard C
>
> From: Richard Wheelwright
> Sent: Saturday, June 1, 2013 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
>
> Tony,
> Depending on the thickness you need. I used waste from the tri-gear
> leg sockets ribs. I cut a 2 1/2 inch circle with a hole saw, then it was
> cut down through its edge at the angel needed to contour the side of the
> fuselage. Worked a treat.
>
> ==================
>
> Richard Wheelwright
> ==================
>
> From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2013, 9:17
> Subject: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
>
>
> <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
>
> I would like to request advice regarding methods of shaping the ply
> inserts for the rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets if anyone has
> digressed from the manual, either by material/medium or method. Thanks.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney st"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Listhttp://fo
> rums.matronbsp; nbsp; -Matt com/contribution"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
> ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:41:36 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
> From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us
>
>
> Hi Tony
>
>
> "anyone has digressed from the manual, either by material/medium or
> method."
>
>
> Here's how I did it:
>
>
> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=31838
>
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Door Seals and poor fit to Fuselage |
Craig,
I had the same problem and solved it by putting the original seals only to
the top and to the front and rear flanges. This eliminated the door bulge
completely. On the lower flange I installed a seal that has no "ear", that
means it is slimmer and barely touches the window frame. Hope this works for
you too.
--------------------------------------------------
Alfred Buess, Europa XS HB-YKI
CH-3700 Spiez, Switzerland
Email ykibuess@bluewin.ch
Von: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von craig
Gesendet: Sonntag, 2. Juni 2013 07:16
An: europa-list@matronics.com
Betreff: Europa-List: Door Seals and poor fit to Fuselage
I am basically ready to paint my baby, but REALLY don't like the door seal
arrangement
With the seals off my doors are as close to perfect as I want, and they are
ok to close,
Just a small amount of force to overcome the strut for the rear lock pin to
close and lock the
Doors, all edges align nicely with the skin of the A/C, when I put the seals
on however
The doors become VERY hard to close and cause a 3 to 5mm bulge front back
top and bottom
In the middle between hinges locks etc. I was considering cutting down the
seal I bought to relieve most
Of the pressure on the door, or removing completely and using some of the
soft draft seal stuck
To the door to take up any gap. Has anyone done anything different to
resolve this
Thanks
Craig in OZ
Kit 577
Message 8
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| Subject: | Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets........P.S. |
> Gidday again,
I've already received a private message telling me of other airframes with the
problem of the lift pin plates being in the wrong place within the fuselage moulding.
Comment was passed about the suitability of car bog, polyester based,
with our epoxy layups, and the PFA's view of its suitability under compressive
load. Anticipating some negative commentary I would like to make the following
respectful comments. Those doubters I'd like to ask, have you ever tried to
remove car bog from something? My lower fuselage jig is bonded to the floor to
keep it level and true. I needed to use a chisel and a lot of effort to remove
it. Now a chisel is a very concentrated force, and I can guarantee the load
exerted by the fuselage facing "face" of a rear lift pin socket would need an
exorbitant amount of force to compress an entrapped amount of this polyester resin
based filler. Also, once encapsulated in 4 plies of BID, whether it sticks
to the BId or not, my belief is it will be there forever. I believe there is
a greater likelihood of it being there in 50 years than plywood. Why didn't
Europa use it as a medium in their manual? I believe because it was possibly overlooked,
and did not have a historical base in aircraft structures. Personally,
if it is inert, doesn't age or shrink, is easily workable into complex shapes,
or be sanded and shaped into such, I'd be happy with it in my bird, with
my kids on board. So, a bit of a vent really, but I am irritated I have to use
an in exact method on some preconception it will be better, when I think it won't.
Mind you, Downunder like the US, I am allowed to make structural modifications.
I'm tempted, but my conservative pilot nature brings me here first.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Frustrated Aussie
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets........P.S. |
Not commenting on chemistries, but if we are talking about the rear lift sockets,
it is my understanding that the rear pins are under tension during accelerated
flight (like a pull-up) preventing the wings from folding forward.
Cheers,
Pete
A239
On Jun 2, 2013, at 9:09 AM, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Gidday again,
> I've already received a private message telling me of other airframes with the
problem of the lift pin plates being in the wrong place within the fuselage
moulding. Comment was passed about the suitability of car bog, polyester based,
with our epoxy layups, and the PFA's view of its suitability under compressive
load. Anticipating some negative commentary I would like to make the following
respectful comments. Those doubters I'd like to ask, have you ever tried to
remove car bog from something? My lower fuselage jig is bonded to the floor
to keep it level and true. I needed to use a chisel and a lot of effort to remove
it. Now a chisel is a very concentrated force, and I can guarantee the load
exerted by the fuselage facing "face" of a rear lift pin socket would need an
exorbitant amount of force to compress an entrapped amount of this polyester
resin based filler. Also, once encapsulated in 4 plies of BID, whether it sticks
to the BId or not, my belief is it will be there !
> forever. I believe there is a greater likelihood of it being there in 50 years
than plywood. Why didn't Europa use it as a medium in their manual? I believe
because it was possibly overlooked, and did not have a historical base in aircraft
structures. Personally, if it is inert, doesn't age or shrink, is easily
workable into complex shapes, or be sanded and shaped into such, I'd be happy
with it in my bird, with my kids on board. So, a bit of a vent really, but I
am irritated I have to use an in exact method on some preconception it will be
better, when I think it won't. Mind you, Downunder like the US, I am allowed
to make structural modifications. I'm tempted, but my conservative pilot nature
brings me here first.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
> Frustrated Aussie
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Carburettor Float Settings |
Message 11
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| Subject: | Door Seals and poor fit to Fuselage |
I had the same problem Craig - I felt the door close mechanism would break
if I continued trying to lock it.
I purchased smaller section door seal from a car spares firm and I am now
quite happy with the result.
Mike
G-CFMP
Message 12
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| Subject: | Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and go off as
they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles thru properly at
startup as well. With the engine running the yellow light is not blinking at
idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and continues as rpms rise, go below
2300rpm and the light goes out. With the engine off and the turbo powered up
the yellow light also is off at idle throttle setting and if I advance the throttle
the light starts blinking and will stop as I pull back. So it seems that
the throttle sensor is sending a signal to the tcu as it moves. But what is
the issue? Sensor, tcu, other.
This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me to remove
the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue? I have searched
this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end with no resolution,
so I know I'm not alone out there.
Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure it is adding
boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points to the throttle
sensor.
Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk to a pc in
dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody know if a dongle is
available and software? Maybe Lockwood or?
Regards
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
Message 13
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| Subject: | Carburettor Float Settings |
>
> Carl
> I have just spent the last three weeks fighting carb issues and also insta
lled the overhaul kit. I also installed new carb bowls as mine were deformed
from over torque on the attachment bolt. I have also replaced the attachmen
t bolt for the car bowl with the new type and oring. The new bolt has a rece
ss for the oring and therefore holds the oring in place! I was unsure about t
he distance for the float arms as well. I reinstalled the old ones and measu
red the distance from the center of the arm to the flat area of where the ma
in jet assembly is screwed in. So the carb is sitting upside down for this m
easurement just like the manual shows if you had the special rotax measuring
device. Anyway I did see that they are parallel to the body, your can see t
his pretty well. I also measured from the center of the arm up to the carb f
lange that is right next to the arm and is a reference point to see if the a
rm is parallel. That distance was 11mm. I put the new arms back on and tweak
ed them so that they also are the same as old or 11mm. That puts them parall
el also. This worked for me. My engine was running very rough at about 3000 r
pm and then would bog down before the carb overhaul. After the overhaul I co
uld move thru the rough area and smooth out again.
> I went thru the mechanical balance and pneumatic balance,this helped but s
till had rough spot. =46rom my rotax class they had a trouble shooting metho
d for carbs. Set the rpm at 2000 after engine is warm, then slowly pull the
carb choke out. The rpm should rise about 400 to 600 rpm then bog. That wou
ld be normal for main jet setting. Mine only gained 200 rpm which indicates t
o lean a setting. I moved main jet needles on each carb to a richer position
, lowered the clip on each carb which raise the jet to a richer setting. Ran
the engine and was much better and the rough spot went away. Long story but
my engine is now running smooth again thru all ranges.
> But I still have a separate issue with my yellow caution lite blinking. Th
e rotax folks want me to send it (tcu) in for a diagnosis, looks like I will
be doing that Monday. The light starts to blink at about 2300rpm and will s
top if throttle down and then start again as rpms rose to about 2300. Even w
ith the engine not running the lite will come on when the throttle is advanc
ed and extinguish when pulled back. So looks like the throttle position sens
or is working but maybe not correct or the tcu is not working. This issue wa
s there before I overhauled the carbs so is not due to the overhaul.
> I will start a new thread on this issue.
> I will try attach a photo of the attachment bolt.
> Good luck Carl.
> Jerry
>
> <image.jpeg>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 2, 2013, at 1:57 AM, "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Has anyone used the proper Rotax tool for setting the float levels.
>>
>> We have just overhauled the carburettors using the Bing overhaul kit (nea
rly =C2=A3300 from Skydrive) =93 this was long overdue and should be d
one every 5 years. I assumed that the supplied float operating arm would be f
actory set but it seems this is not the case.
>>
>> According to the maintenance manual, a special tool should be used which I
understand can be hired from Skydrive for a nominal charge. Looking at the m
anual it looks as though the float arms need to be parallel to the main carb
body but I could be wrong in this assumption.
>>
>> The upshot of the overhaul has been a rough running engine which upon inv
estigation looks like a weak mixture. Conrad Beales website says that if you
remove the float bowls after running the engine the fuel level should be 1
=998 =9C (3mm) from the top of the bowl =93 we had nearer 8-
10 mm. Looks like we need to order up the setting tool and do the job prope
rly.
>>
>> So back to the original question =93 anyone used the adjustment too
l and how easy was this. Failing this is there another better way.
>>
>> I spoke briefly to Kevin Dilks and he suggested that the float arms shoul
d be parallel(as above) but I=99m not sure this is a precise enough se
tting.
>>
>> PS: thanks all for your comments on THROTTLE STOPS =93 I am incline
d to agree with Duncan in his observation that the carb stops are the main o
nes that can be overridden by applying gentle backpressure on the throttle l
ever to give a usefully reduced RPM on descent =93 with the cockpit st
op acting as the safety backup to prevent damaging the carb throttle arms et
c.
>>
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan & Ami
>> Sent: 01 June 2013 08:53
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
>>
>> Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's usefu
l to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed cl
osely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is deliberately p
ulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits any excess strain t
hat can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful facility to temporar
ily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any case will still always b
e well above the static setting, as the forward motion drives the prop). As s
oon as the deliberate backpressure on the lever is released, 'normal service
' is resumed
>> This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is h
elpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
>>
>> Duncan McF.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Pattinson
>> Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
>>
>> I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that w
e should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the cock
pit).
>>
>> I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors ha
ve their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as y
ou increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the cockp
it stop.
>>
>> We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running w
ith a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the stop
block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are resetti
ng the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to be addressed
=93 it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the throttle
stop.
>>
>> Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I n
ote that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no expla
nation as to why.
>>
>> I=99m sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some l
ight on this.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Carb float settings Rorax 9xx |
Carl
I am resending this email, didn't want to take before?
Carl
I have just spent the last three weeks fighting carb issues and also installed
the overhaul kit. I also installed new carb bowls as mine were deformed from over
torque on the attachment bolt. I have also replaced the attachment bolt for
the car bowl with the new type and oring. The new bolt has a recess for the
oring and therefore holds the oring in place! I was unsure about the distance
for the float arms as well. I reinstalled the old ones and measured the distance
from the center of the arm to the flat area of where the main jet assembly
is screwed in. So the carb is sitting upside down for this measurement just like
the manual shows if you had the special rotax measuring device. Anyway I did
see that they are parallel to the body, your can see this pretty well. I also
measured from the center of the arm up to the carb flange that is right next
to the arm and is a reference point to see if the arm is parallel. That distance
was 11mm. I put the new arms back on and tweaked them so that they also are
the same as old or 11mm. That puts them parallel also. This worked for me. My
engine was running very rough at about 3000 rpm and then would bog down before
the carb overhaul. After the overhaul I could move thru the rough area and
smooth out again.
I went thru the mechanical balance and pneumatic balance,this helped but still
had rough spot. From my rotax class they had a trouble shooting method for carbs.
Set the rpm at 2000 after engine is warm, then slowly pull the carb choke
out. The rpm should rise about 400 to 600 rpm then bog. That would be normal
for main jet setting. Mine only gained 200 rpm which indicates to lean a setting.
I moved main jet needles on each carb to a richer position, lowered the clip
on each carb which raise the jet to a richer setting. Ran the engine and was
much better and the rough spot went away. Long story but my engine is now running
smooth again thru all ranges.
But I still have a separate issue with my yellow caution lite blinking. The rotax
folks want me to send it (tcu) in for a diagnosis, looks like I will be doing
that Monday. The light starts to blink at about 2300rpm and will stop if throttle
down and then start again as rpms rose to about 2300. Even with the engine
not running the lite will come on when the throttle is advanced and extinguish
when pulled back. So looks like the throttle position sensor is working but
maybe not correct or the tcu is not working. This issue was there before I
overhauled the carbs so is not due to the overhaul.
I will start a new thread on this issue.
I will try attach a photo of the attachment bolt.
Good luck Carl.
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 06/01/13 |
Greetings Tony,
Moving the plates isn't all that bad but you are right in it takes time
and patience. As for covering up your "curves" I prefer to see you
fill with an epoxy filler. Personally, if a customer mucks up the wood
shims, I fix it with Redux, set the socket and put peel ply around the
edges of the taped up socket. Peel the socket off smooth and glass it
up. Cover with your glass and peel ply well. Works fast and easy.
Redux is as good as ply and with the extra glass on top it is
bulletproof. To fill, you can use your expand cell with epoxy supplied
in the kit. Make it good and thick. I know that it takes longer, but
here is the reason:
Polyester resin and fillers will de-bond from epoxy. The rule is
nothing on epoxy but epoxy or polyurethane paint. If polyester filler
is used, it grips to rough surfaces and is best on metal , primer, or
other polyester. Vinylester sticks to poly, and epoxy sticks to
everything that is dry (no greasy poly please).
In experiments with my painter, polyester pops off epoxy gelcoat or
weave (heat cured or not) in about a month unless sanded very course,
but watch the edges, they are what de-bonds. All the filler MSDS sheets
indicate do not put poly on epoxy. Vinylester is a different animal.
It is a long molecule but not as long as epoxy. It will stick but will
flake off with bending. I have Evercoat Rage Vinylester filler on one
of my flaps as an experiment and have had no problem after 5 years. But
the Evercoat folks tell me it will eventually peel.
Caution: Any filler or even glass tape with a raw edge will lift when
painted with urethane. Always make sure you have a wet edge and peel
plied in a stress area like a wing walk area or it will show a crack.
Will it peel all the way, no but the inspection will have you grinding
on a newly finished airplane.
As a general rule:
Fill with epoxy/expand cell, finish the smooth out with a sanding block
to about 150 grit then prime. I fill pinholes by using Dupont 2K type
filler primer but any will do. Any further minor imperfections in our
experience are filled with a good quality glazing filler such as 3M,
over the primer to fill those small imperfections. Keep it very thin.
It sticks well, is fast and is easy to prime/sand/fill/prime to a
perfect finish.
Stay away from resin and talc as it is heavy and will peel off epoxy.
I hate to do wheel pants and the transitions. I swear it is faster to
fill the fuselage completely than wheel pants because of all the small
curves. Once my glass work is done, I fill initially with expand cell
and sand for a day. Once reasonably close, I prime, and break out the
Rage. By the end of the day, I am ready to prime. I prime and spot
fill/prime and shoot the polyurethane.
The cowl and doors are a baked ester resin, so Rage works on small dings
pretty well.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 6:08 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 06/01/13
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>>
Gidday,
Thanks to Richard Wheelwright, Richard Collings, and Ron Parigoris for
their replies regarding TE Lift Pin Sockets. I had to move all 4 of my
lift pin socket plates from the sides of the fuselage, due to them being
in the wrong position, and no, my dimensions are correct. A bunch of
other builders, well at least one other, have had to move plates. So,
the rear plates were extracted and moved from the outside due to access
with the cockpit module in the way. Suffice to say I have a buildup over
the plates that whilst over the top of the plates it is flat, as you
migrate outward, I have multiple plies of cloth including the mandatory
4 plies of BID for reinforcement. So, whilst I like curves of the
feminine sense, I hate them otherwise. I've got curves going off in all
directions and I'm just hopeless at the trial and error of shaping ply.
I have an admission, I love car bog. Polyester resin mixed with talc.
Easy to sand, easy to shape. I am wondering if rather than ply I coul!
d apply car bog over the plate area, shape it nicely, and then layup
over the top of it. It aint going to crack away or migrate anywhere as
it is captive by the BID, and should remain "in"compressible, certainly
no more than ply. Or, if the car bog is the issue, why not apply it,
shape it, splash it, fill it with redux and flox, and redux it back on?
I can build most of the kit but when it comes to multiple fit and sand,
fit and sand, etc, I know most will think it an easy thing, but I
struggle and simply don't enjoy it. So, any other options??
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Whingy Aussie
On 02/06/2013, at 5:01 PM, Europa-List Digest Server
<europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>> wrote:
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:55:53 AM PST US
> From: Richard Wheelwright
<rpwheelwright@yahoo.co.uk<mailto:rpwheelwright@yahoo.co.uk>>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket
Mounting
>
> Tony,=0A--- Depending on the thickness you need. I used waste from
th
> e tri-gear leg sockets ribs. I cut a 2 1/2 inch circle with a hole
saw, the
> n it was cut down through its edge at the angel needed to contour
the side
> of the fuselage. Worked a
treat.=0A=0A===========
> =========0A=0ARichard
Wheelwright=0A======
> ==============0A
=0A=0A__________________________
> ______=0A From: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0ATo<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com%3E=0A
To>: europa-list@m<mailto:europa-list@m>
> atronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, 1 June 2013, 9:17=0ASubject:
Europa-List: R
> ear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting=0A =0A=0A-->
Europa-List messag
> e posted by: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0A=0AI<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com%3E=
0A=0AI> would like to r
> equest advice regarding methods of shaping the ply inserts for the
rear Tra
> iling Edge Lift Pin Sockets if anyone has digressed from the manual,
either
> by material/medium or method. Thanks.=0ARegards=0ATony
Renshaw=0ASydney Au
> ==================
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:27:53 AM PST US
> From: "richard"
<rcollings@talktalk.net<mailto:rcollings@talktalk.net>>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket
Mounting
>
> I did the same as Richard W , I drew a circle on a piece of the 12mm
> plywood the same dia as the bracket tried it in place with the wings
in
> position then once I had the thickness correct blended out from the
> bracket circle to the edge this made the outside dia about 3 1/2
inches
> . Then glue and glass as per manual. Good luck Richard C
>
> From: Richard Wheelwright
> Sent: Saturday, June 1, 2013 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket
Mounting
>
> Tony,
> Depending on the thickness you need. I used waste from the
tri-gear
> leg sockets ribs. I cut a 2 1/2 inch circle with a hole saw, then it
was
> cut down through its edge at the angel needed to contour the side of
the
> fuselage. Worked a treat.
>
> ==================
>
> Richard Wheelwright
> ==================
>
> From: Tony Renshaw
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>>
> Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2013, 9:17
> Subject: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket Mounting
>
>
> <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>>
>
> I would like to request advice regarding methods of shaping the ply
> inserts for the rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Sockets if anyone has
> digressed from the manual, either by material/medium or method.
Thanks.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
> Sydney st"
>
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Listhttp://fo
> rums.matronbsp; nbsp; -Matt com/contribution"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:41:36 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rear Trailing Edge Lift Pin Socket
Mounting
> From: rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us<mailto:rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>
> Hi Tony
>
>
> "anyone has digressed from the manual, either by material/medium or
> method."
>
>
> Here's how I did it:
>
>
>
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=31838<http://www.europao
wners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=31838>
>
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
Jerry,
The last time I talked to Dean at Lockwood, they weren't loaning their
dongle, but I fly down there and have used theirs.
Your indications do point to a bad sensor.
Throttle sensor and waste gate I have discussed before so follow that.
If the waste gate moves OK with the engine off while moving the
throttle, then the throttle sensor is probably OK, and the servo is OK,
that leaves airbox / ambient pressure senders, temp and TCU.
Your comment on the boost coming on too soon can be easily checked>
Put the MP on the airbox plug and check your AB pressure for yourself.
Convert to millibars and check the graphs in the TCU manual. That
checks the airbox sensor but not its signal.
Hard to diagnose without the Dongle and the old Dos 8 reader. With only
a Dos reader, and a regular serial cable, I think you can still see
throttle position, time and RPM. Try it and see.
Now you can see why I spent the bucks for the new TCU.
As for the carb float arms, just setting them parallel to the carb base
seems to work OK. Even using the $100 tool, it still comes out that
way. So what the heck. If it isn't flooding and runs OK it works for
me.
Regards,
Still grounded for lack of a new fuel line fitting to the carb.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Rehn<mailto:rehn@rockisland.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 1:01 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking
<rehn@rockisland.com<mailto:rehn@rockisland.com>>
The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and
go off as they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles
thru properly at startup as well. With the engine running the yellow
light is not blinking at idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and
continues as rpms rise, go below 2300rpm and the light goes out. With
the engine off and the turbo powered up the yellow light also is off at
idle throttle setting and if I advance the throttle the light starts
blinking and will stop as I pull back. So it seems that the throttle
sensor is sending a signal to the tcu as it moves. But what is the
issue? Sensor, tcu, other.
This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me
to remove the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue?
I have searched this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end
with no resolution, so I know I'm not alone out there.
Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure
it is adding boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points
to the throttle sensor.
Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk to
a pc in dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody know
if a dongle is available and software? Maybe Lockwood or?
Regards
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
You can rent the dongle from Lockeeood for around 50$ (we rented it about 8
years ago so price might have gone up).=C2-
=8BWell worth it! =C2-Within 15 mins I knew what was wrong and
recalabrated the throttle.=C2-
Matt Carpenter=C2-
=94
Sent from Mailbox for iPhone
On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com> wrote:
> The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and go
off as they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles thru
properly at startup as well. With the engine running the yellow light is
not blinking at idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and continues as
rpms rise, go below 2300rpm and the light goes out. With the engine off
and the turbo powered up the yellow light also is off at idle throttle
setting and if I advance the throttle the light starts blinking and will
stop as I pull back. So it seems that the throttle sensor is sending a
signal to the tcu as it moves. But what is the issue=3F Sensor, tcu, other.
> This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me to
remove the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue=3F I
have searched this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end with
no resolution, so I know I'm not alone out there.
> Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure it
is adding boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points to the
throttle sensor.
> Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk to a
pc in dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody know if a
dongle is available and software=3F Maybe Lockwood or=3F
> Regards
> Jerry
> Sent from my iPad
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
Thanks Matthew, was your light behaving like mine?
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 2, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "Matthew Carpenter" <europaxs@gmail.com> wrote:
> You can rent the dongle from Lockeeood for around 50$ (we rented it about 8
years ago so price might have gone up).
>
> =8BWell worth it! Within 15 mins I knew what was wrong and recalabr
ated the throttle.
>
> Matt Carpenter
> =94
> Sent from Mailbox for iPhone
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com> wrote:
>
>
> The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and go of
f as they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles thru prop
erly at startup as well. With the engine running the yellow light is not bli
nking at idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and continues as rpms ri
se, go below 2300rpm and the light goes out. With the engine off and the tur
bo powered up the yellow light also is off at idle throttle setting and if I
advance the throttle the light starts blinking and will stop as I pull back
. So it seems that the throttle sensor is sending a signal to the tcu as it m
oves. But what is the issue? Sensor, tcu, other.
> This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me to r
emove the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue? I have s
earched this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end with no res
olution, so I know I'm not alone out there.
> Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure it i
s adding boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points to the th
rottle sensor.
> Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk to a p
c in dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody know if a don
gle is available and software? Maybe Lockwood or?
> Regards
> Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | How do I order Mod 77 for a Europa XS Trigear? |
Hello Bud!
I have been looking at installing the pushrod rudder drive, Mod 77, and I would
like to know if I order that from you, or directly from Europa? I have a Trigear
Europa XS. I looks like the price is something around $327 US, plus whatever
taxes, shipping, and handling would be.
Regards,
Jeff Williams
340 North Park Blvd.
Brookfield, WI 53005
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
I looked at the rotax maintenance manual and they have a process to test the
throttle sensor, I goy out my ohm meter and did the test. The sensor is def
initely bad. So this makes a lot of sense for the issues I have been having.
Will update when I install the new sensor.
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 2, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com> wrote:
> Thanks Matthew, was your light behaving like mine?
> Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 2, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "Matthew Carpenter" <europaxs@gmail.com> wrot
e:
>
>> You can rent the dongle from Lockeeood for around 50$ (we rented it about
8 years ago so price might have gone up).
>>
>> =8BWell worth it! Within 15 mins I knew what was wrong and recalab
rated the throttle.
>>
>> Matt Carpenter
>> =94
>> Sent from Mailbox for iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and go o
ff as they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles thru pro
perly at startup as well. With the engine running the yellow light is not bl
inking at idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and continues as rpms r
ise, go below 2300rpm and the light goes out. With the engine off and the tu
rbo powered up the yellow light also is off at idle throttle setting and if I
advance the throttle the light starts blinking and will stop as I pull back
. So it seems that the throttle sensor is sending a signal to the tcu as it m
oves. But what is the issue? Sensor, tcu, other.
>> This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me to r
emove the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue? I have s
earched this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end with no res
olution, so I know I'm not alone out there.
>> Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure it i
s adding boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points to the th
rottle sensor.
>> Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk to a p
c in dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody know if a don
gle is available and software? Maybe Lockwood or?
>> Regards
>> Jerry
>>
>> Sent from my iPad ============= ">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List ronics.com www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
==========================
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==========================
=========
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=========
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 yellow caution light blinking |
Yes, sure was.
Found that the throttle was not calibrated like it should have been.
Once we knew the positions 110%,100%,75%,65%,etc.. we marked them on the
throttle.
No issues after that.
On Jun 2, 2013, at 2:09 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com> wrote:
> Thanks Matthew, was your light behaving like mine?
> Jerry
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 2, 2013, at 11:25 AM, "Matthew Carpenter" <europaxs@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> You can rent the dongle from Lockeeood for around 50$ (we rented it
about 8 years ago so price might have gone up).
>>
>> =8BWell worth it! Within 15 mins I knew what was wrong and
recalabrated the throttle.
>>
>> Matt Carpenter
>> =94
>> Sent from Mailbox for iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn@rockisland.com>
wrote:
>>
>>
>> The yellow caution light is blinking. The warning lights come on and
go off as they should when the tcu is powered up, the waste gate cycles
thru properly at startup as well. With the engine running the yellow
light is not blinking at idle but starts to blink at about 2300 rpm and
continues as rpms rise, go below 2300rpm and the light goes out. With
the engine off and the turbo powered up the yellow light also is off at
idle throttle setting and if I advance the throttle the light starts
blinking and will stop as I pull back. So it seems that the throttle
sensor is sending a signal to the tcu as it moves. But what is the
issue? Sensor, tcu, other.
>> This issue just started on its own. So, the rotax folks would like me
to remove the tcu and send it in for diagnoses. Anybody had this issue?
I have searched this and have seen it discussed but the threads just end
with no resolution, so I know I'm not alone out there.
>> Also the turbo is working and does boost the engine but I pretty sure
it is adding boost too soon for the throttle setting which also points
to the throttle sensor.
>> Lastly my tcu is of the old type 4.5 which needs the dongle to talk
to a pc in dos! So I can't plug in my pc and test it myself. Anybody
know if a dongle is available and software? Maybe Lockwood or?
>> Regards
>> Jerry
>>
>> Sent from my iPad =============
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List ronics.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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