Europa-List Digest Archive

Fri 06/14/13


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:46 AM - Re: where to locate fuel pressure sensor (nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk)
     2. 12:31 PM - iPad battery charger (Guerner Remi)
     3. 01:07 PM - Re: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop (Ken Carpenter)
     4. 01:22 PM - Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop (Remi Guerner)
     5. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop (David Joyce)
     6. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop (Bud Yerly)
     7. 01:58 PM - Re: iPad battery charger (Duncan & Ami)
     8. 04:36 PM - Re: iPad battery charger (craig)
     9. 06:02 PM - Re: iPad battery charger (Kevin Klinefelter)
    10. 06:21 PM - Re: iPad battery charger (Robert Borger)
    11. 11:45 PM - Re: iPad battery charger (Max Cointe (Free))
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:46:38 AM PST US
    From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: where to locate fuel pressure sensor
    Hi Rowland, Rotax introduced a fuel line mod in 2008. I have attached this FYI. You should be able to download the latest (August 2012) Rotax 912s Installation Manual from the Rotax web site. If you have any problems, contact me off-list and I'll send you a copy. The diagrams you need is on page four and five in the chapter on "Fuel Systems". Nigel On 13/06/2013 23:13, Rowland Carson wrote: > > On 13 Jun 2013, at 12:13, richard wrote: > >> Philip suggests making a fuel manifold, he probably didn't know that new rotax engines are supplied with just such a manifold, contact Conair for a price also look at the latest installation drawings for a picture. >> For what its worth I modified the fuel pipe runs, dispensing with the rubber pipes in favour of proper aircraft aluminium see Mod No 13304 > Richard - thanks for your message. I am planning to use aluminium piping (and racing-type steel-reinforced hose in the tunnel & FWF areas). I can't see mod 13304 anywhere on the LAA website yet, either as a prototype or standard mod. > > Where could I find the "latest installation drawings"? I had a look at the Europa factory website, but presumably this manifold is so new it hasn't percolated through to the factory's documentation. I'll see if I can find it on some of the Rotax websites. > > in friendship > > Rowland > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:31:04 PM PST US
    From: Guerner Remi <air.guerner@orange.fr>
    Subject: iPad battery charger
    Hi All, I have purchased a 12V battery charger for my iPad. This morning I flight tested it for the first time and was disappointed by the results: 1. The charger makes noise in the radio. The noise is the same as when I push the squelch button. I made some more testing and found that the noise was there on any frequency below 126 MHz. No noise on any frequency above 126. Of course I checked that the noise disappears as soon as I unplug the charger from the cigarette lighter. 2. The charging power is so low that it is just able to maintain the charging level of the battery, unless the iPad is turned off. Any suggestion or comments? Regards Remi Guerner


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:07:58 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop
    From: Ken Carpenter <kbcarpenter@comcast.net>
    Will add my two bits to the discussion. Have been using Airmaster prop with three blade warp drive for 550 hours. No sig problems and was able to repl ace one blade without difficulty when one blade damaged. Had a wire in the h ub break while flying and it no sig problem. Just stayed at the climb rpm t ill got back on ground. Have been happy with it...though have never flown with any other prop. Ken carpenter N212KC. 914 mono Sent from my iPad On Jun 13, 2013, at 3:43 PM, "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com> wrote: > Remi, > I am distressed that you are still having cooling issues. If you did all I described in the cooling 101 article printed in the Europa Flyer, it should cool handily. > > I can operate for 25 minutes on the ground and not hit 275F on a 90F day. The XS cowl is not optimal, but the root width is the same with my 332 as y ours. > The mono exit from your engine compartment is probably only an inch wide, b ut if your ducting is sealed you should be able to cool very well in Europe. > > I gave Martin my ideas for a root extension for the ferrule on the WD blad e, as I just don't have time to make one up. It basically is an extension t o the blade and a riveted airfoil shape to the spinner similar to the new bl ades on the C130J and other turboprop engine/prop combinations. That will h elp a breeze close in to the cowl, but is intended for cruise performance in crease. > > Check your ducting carefully. If you did not see my changes for the XS co wl, refer to my website or Airmaster's website (Europa Application) for down load. > > Bud Yerly > www.customflightcreations.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Guerner Remi > To: Europa-List Digest Server > Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 4:11 AM > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop > > > <<<<The "extra" twist for enhancement of cowl port airflow is not a > factor in a 912s application.>>>>> > > Hi Ira, > I have 630 hours on my Airmaster AP332/WarpDrive and I am very happy with t he reliability and performance of this prop. But the cooling problem on the g round with the WarpDrive blades is a big inconvenience, with any engine. All Europas I know, fitted with the WarpDrive prop, fixed or variable pitch, ev en with the 80 HP 912 have this ground cooling problem as soon as they have t o wait more than a few minutes at the holding point in hot weather. With the existing Europa XS cowl, I believe the only solution would be to have wide r blades at the root and higher twist, as offered by Woodcomp. > Regards > Remi Guerner > F-PGKL, XS Monowheel, 912ULS, 1014 hours. > p; Features Chat, http://www.matronnbsp; via the Web title=htt p://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums .matronics.com > _p; generous bsp; title=http://www.matronics. com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.m atronics.com/c================ > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:22:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop
    From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner@orange.fr>
    Hi Bud, I really think the solutions to overheating on the ground are either more airflow from the prop or a complete rework of the cooling system. The first one means better blades. The second one means a bigger and/or more effective radiator and a completely redesigned cowl. I have made only limited mods to my cowl which produced some positive results and I am not prepared to make a completely new cowl as I do not like when the plane is grounded for months and I cannot fly! I am not ready either to spend the money to replace my prop, unless I manage to break it one day. So I have to live with this issue and be careful not to boil over. Thanks for your comments. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402701#402701


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:39:49 PM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop
    Having said my bit several times before I hesitate to repeat it, but here is a short version: firstly I have a lot of friends using the Airmaster and they are happy with it, and it is clear to me hat it s a good propeller. I first became interested in the Woodcomp/Kremen as it then was, when I saw Tom Justic with a 914/Woodcomp combination appear to significantly out climb the Europa Company 914/Airmaster during the 2000 Europa Club fly out to Prague I ended up buying a Woodcomp SR2000. This performed well, but not I suspect any better than an Airmaster, and indeed the blade characteristics wre fairly similar. There were issues with the power of the pitch change motor affecting the system reliability which I feel have been largely addressed in the later SR3000 range. I changed to an SR3000W prop when I was trying to optimise performance with a view to flying to Australia. This has a blade twist of around 26 degrees (compared with something of the order of 12 degrees for the SR2000 and the Warp Drive blades), which is what you need theoretically to fly at speeds in the 90 to 160kt range -we were hoping to go to Australia at 150kts cruising at 10,000ft. I did closely monitored comparisons between my planes performance with he two propellers. With the SR3000 the climb rate and fuel consumption were slightly better. Top speed at various heights was 4kts higher (equivalent to an extra 7 HP) but most striking of all was that my cooling (which had always been a problem) was totally transformed. I no longer boiled if held up at the Rally waiting behind several planes for take off, and for the first time I could do a 5min full power climb. So my message to anyone having persiistent problems with 914/XS cooling is to get hold of a high twist propeller. The explanation, which barely needs stating is that with a low twist propeller the central part of the prop is effectively in Beta mode at any speed over 40kts and is diverting air away from the cooling intakes. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 16:04:26 -0400 Ken Carpenter <kbcarpenter@comcast.net> wrote: > Will add my two bits to the discussion. Have been using >Airmaster prop with three blade warp drive for 550 hours. > No sig problems and was able to replace one blade >without difficulty when one blade damaged. Had a wire in >the hub break while flying and it no sig problem. Just >stayed at the climb rpm till got back on ground. > Have been happy with it...though have never flown with >any other prop. > Ken carpenter > N212KC. 914 mono > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 13, 2013, at 3:43 PM, "Bud Yerly" ><budyerly@msn.com> wrote: > >> Remi, >> I am distressed that you are still having cooling >>issues. If you did all I described in the cooling 101 >>article printed in the Europa Flyer, it should cool >>handily. >> >> I can operate for 25 minutes on the ground and not hit >>275F on a 90F day. The XS cowl is not optimal, but the >>root width is the same with my 332 as yours. >> The mono exit from your engine compartment is probably >>only an inch wide, but if your ducting is sealed you >>should be able to cool very well in Europe. >> >> I gave Martin my ideas for a root extension for the >>ferrule on the WD blade, as I just don't have time to >>make one up. It basically is an extension to the blade >>and a riveted airfoil shape to the spinner similar to the >>new blades on the C130J and other turboprop engine/prop >>combinations. That will help a breeze close in to the >>cowl, but is intended for cruise performance increase. >> >> Check your ducting carefully. If you did not see my >>changes for the XS cowl, refer to my website or >>Airmaster's website (Europa Application) for download. >> >> Bud Yerly >> www.customflightcreations.com >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Guerner Remi >> To: Europa-List Digest Server >> Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 4:11 AM >> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop >> >><air.guerner@orange.fr> >> >> <<<<The "extra" twist for enhancement of cowl port >>airflow is not a >> factor in a 912s application.>>>>> >> >> Hi Ira, >> I have 630 hours on my Airmaster AP332/WarpDrive and I >>am very happy with the reliability and performance of >>this prop. But the cooling problem on the ground with the >>WarpDrive blades is a big inconvenience, with any engine. >>All Europas I know, fitted with the WarpDrive prop, fixed >>or variable pitch, even with the 80 HP 912 have this >>ground cooling problem as soon as they have to wait more >>than a few minutes at the holding point in hot weather. >>With the existing Europa XS cowl, I believe the only >> solution would be to have wider blades at the root and >>higher twist, as offered by Woodcomp. >> Regards >> Remi Guerner >> F-PGKL, XS Monowheel, 912ULS, 1014 hours. >> p; Features Chat, http://www.matronnbsp; via >>the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/ >>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> _p; generous bsp; >> title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c================ >> >> >> >> >> > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== > =================================== >>


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:57:06 PM PST US
    From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop
    Remi, I would be glad to look at photo's of your cowl and coolers and make suggestions that are cheap and fairly fast. Please also look at your exhaust as I have seen three recently with significant leaks. Near disaster really. The blade you have is long enough to get air to the cooling duct on the XS. Taxi in course prop setting. I get a significant airflow by running up to 2300 and then going manual and course back to 1900 to get more flow of blade and water pump. Best Regards, Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Remi Guerner<mailto:air.guerner@orange.fr> To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 4:20 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Woodcomp or Airmaster Prop <air.guerner@orange.fr<mailto:air.guerner@orange.fr>> Hi Bud, I really think the solutions to overheating on the ground are either more airflow from the prop or a complete rework of the cooling system. The first one means better blades. The second one means a bigger and/or more effective radiator and a completely redesigned cowl. I have made only limited mods to my cowl which produced some positive results and I am not prepared to make a completely new cowl as I do not like when the plane is grounded for months and I cannot fly! I am not ready either to spend the money to replace my prop, unless I manage to break it one day. So I have to live with this issue and be careful not to boil over. Thanks for your comments. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402701#402701<http://forums .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402701#402701> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on>


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:58:10 PM PST US
    From: "Duncan & Ami" <ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net>
    Subject: iPad battery charger
    The same thing happens with the 12v charger for a certain well renowned make of handheld GPS! Duncan McF. Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guerner Remi Sent: 14 June 2013 20:30 Subject: Europa-List: iPad battery charger Hi All, I have purchased a 12V battery charger for my iPad. This morning I flight tested it for the first time and was disappointed by the results: 1. The charger makes noise in the radio. The noise is the same as when I push the squelch button. I made some more testing and found that the noise was there on any frequency below 126 MHz. No noise on any frequency above 126. Of course I checked that the noise disappears as soon as I unplug the charger from the cigarette lighter. 2. The charging power is so low that it is just able to maintain the charging level of the battery, unless the iPad is turned off. Any suggestion or comments? Regards Remi Guerner


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:36:27 PM PST US
    From: "craig" <craigb@onthenet.com.au>
    Subject: iPad battery charger
    Perhaps you could use a Pulse Width Modulator. They run about $20 - $50 off ebay, usefull for controlling voltage And current you MAY be about to set the frequency high enough or low enough frequency so you can't notice it on your comms Or maybe you can find one of the "Old School" universal power packs that just used resistors and diodes, so no switching Noise, obviously you would need to do some cable "adjustments" or make a short adaptor cable to make it fit the Ipad One thing I have seen , was a USB adaptor for a "cigarette lighter" socket and run it from USB power just a thought Regards craig


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:02:27 PM PST US
    From: Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: iPad battery charger
    I use a USB adapter for cigar lighter for my iPad, no noise. Kevin On Jun 14, 2013, at 4:35 PM, "craig" <craigb@onthenet.com.au> wrote: > > Perhaps you could use a Pulse Width Modulator. They run about $20 - $50 off > ebay, usefull for controlling voltage > And current you MAY be about to set the frequency high enough or low enough > frequency so you can't notice it on your comms > Or maybe you can find one of the "Old School" universal power packs that > just used resistors and diodes, so no switching > Noise, obviously you would need to do some cable "adjustments" or make a > short adaptor cable to make it fit the Ipad > One thing I have seen , was a USB adaptor for a "cigarette lighter" socket > and run it from USB power just a thought > > Regards > craig > > > > > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:21:30 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: iPad battery charger
    From: Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com>
    Remi, I installed a 12 volt power socket and put in a double USB adaptor. One side for the iPad, the other for iPhone. Works great, no noise. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Compact-High-Output-Charger/dp/B00470C35E/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1371259137&sr=8-10&keywords=12+volt+usb+car+charger There's a bunch of them available through Apple, Amazon, e-bay, etc. And they're not expensive. Blue skies & tailwinds, Bob Borger Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop. Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208-5331 Cel: 817-992-1117 rlborger@mac.com On Jun 14, 2013, at 2:30 PM, Guerner Remi <air.guerner@orange.fr> wrote: Hi All, I have purchased a 12V battery charger for my iPad. This morning I flight tested it for the first time and was disappointed by the results: 1. The charger makes noise in the radio. The noise is the same as when I push the squelch button. I made some more testing and found that the noise was there on any frequency below 126 MHz. No noise on any frequency above 126. Of course I checked that the noise disappears as soon as I unplug the charger from the cigarette lighter. 2. The charging power is so low that it is just able to maintain the charging level of the battery, unless the iPad is turned off. Any suggestion or comments? Regards Remi Guerner


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:45:28 PM PST US
    From: "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe@free.fr>
    Subject: iPad battery charger
    Hi Remi (and all) I don't like lighters so I bought (few years ago) a 4400 mAh hand-held battery which gives me an additional 6 hours of autonomy for my iPad. It's a 7 x 5 x 2 cm and 200 gr piece of plastic with a USB output and a mini USB input. 50 or so. One of the main advantage is to be fully independent of the power of the ship. Max Cointe mcointe@free.fr F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures -----Message d'origine----- De : owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] De la part de Guerner Remi Envoy : vendredi 14 juin 2013 21:30 : Europa-List Digest Server Objet : Europa-List: iPad battery charger Hi All, I have purchased a 12V battery charger for my iPad.




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