Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:29 AM - Re: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
2. 10:52 AM - Re: G-KITS. (Richard Lamprey)
3. 11:33 AM - Outside aircraft (andrew cullum)
4. 02:41 PM - Re: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder (Neville Eyre)
5. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
6. 04:23 PM - Re: Outside aircraft (Fred Klein)
7. 04:32 PM - Re: windscreen de-fogging (rampil)
8. 04:46 PM - Re: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder (Neville Eyre)
9. 04:53 PM - Re: Outside aircraft (andrew cullum)
10. 06:32 PM - Re: Re: windscreen de-fogging (craig)
11. 11:48 PM - Re: Re: windscreen de-fogging (David Joyce)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder |
Thanks Bud,=0AI use Gurney flaps for trim, a few inches of draft excluder s
tuck under the trailing edge of one aileron. I always tried to get the flap
s reflexed up a bit to match the digital print out of the airfoil. Most fol
ks assume it should be flat under the TE but it isn't. Another omission in
the manual! Poor old Andy, he was under so much pressure when he wrote it,
all sorts of things needing attention, especially the hassles they had with
the fuel tank. No one told them the tank would expand when filled with Mog
as! Took a year to fix that! =0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________
__________=0A From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matronic
s.com =0ASent: Friday, 5 July 2013, 3:02=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: An
gle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder=0A =0A=0A=0A =0AGraham,
=0AWell said.- If a plane comes in here we do the same thing.- It =0Asa
ves a lot of head scratching.- We measure root, (granted outside of the
=0Afiller and fillets), mid wing between the flap and aileron, and tip.-
Then =0Acompare the two wing sides.- If you adjust the flap and aileron t
o even =0Athem up (the aileron has to be contoured to stay where you want i
t) it makes =0Atrimming a lot less trial and error plus you don't need thos
e ugly bendy =0Atabs.=0ABud-=0A----- Original Message ----- =0A>From: GRA
HAM SINGLETON =0A>To: europa-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Thursday, July 04
, 2013 3:29 PM=0A>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a C
lassic Taildragger Downunder=0A>=0A>=0A>The AoA that must be accurate is a
t roughly the outboard end of the spar.=0A>AoA =0A at the wing root is pre
tty irrelevant. Think about it, there's almost no =0A rolling moment there
. =0A>I made a jig to measure AoA using the leading edge =0A and the trail
ing edge, a Vee on it's side for the LE and a straight edge to =0A sit on
the trailing edge. Straight edge to join the two. This is your datum =0A l
ine, not essential that it is parallel to the wing chord line but you will
=0A need to use a digital level.=0A>Next get the first wing set up as per
the =0A manual.=0A>Now set up the second wing to match the first. =0A>It w
ouldn't do =0A any harm to check the wings at the tips too, this will=0A>t
ell you if the =0A wings have different washout angle but maybe you didn't
want to know =0A that!=0A>Graham=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>_____________
___________________=0A> From: AirEupora <AirEupora@sbcglobal.net>=0A>To: eu
ropa-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: Thursday, 4 July 2013, 16:39=0A>Subject:
Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder=0A
global.net>=0A>=0A>Tony, =0A I can tell you from experience that both wing
s have to be the same.- I =0A set my up with the fuselage bottom only.
- I now have both top and bottom =0A on and have 30 hours of flight time
.- I have a left wing low.- I =0A went back and measured both wings an
d the right is 2.4 degrees and the left is =0A 1.7 degrees.- =0A>=0A>Not
sure why!- I took pictures of the level =0A showing 2.5 degrees on both
wings!=0A>=0A>I have lower the left wing flap =0A about a degree or two,
but at low speed the aircraft left wing drops in a =0A second.- I'm plan
ning on resetting the front socket.- =0A>=0A>I'm =0A worried about the h
oles that I drilled in the metal plate that is in the =0A fuselage and wil
l cut out the fuselage skin and add a plate to the ole one =0A then set th
e wing up correctly.=0A>=0A>Do it right the first, second, third =0A time.
- If it's right you will have no troubles when you fly it.- Use =0A a
laser measure from the tail plane tubes to the wind aileron end plate to se
t =0A the sweep.=0A>=0A>Rick Stockton=0A>N120EJ=0A>Jabiru 3330L=0A>Whirlwi
nd Ground =0A Adjustable=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>Read this topic online here:
=0A>=0A>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=cs.com/Navigator?Euro
pa-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Na=- - - -
- - - - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS href="http://forums.matronics.com/" t
arget="_blank">http://forums.matr - - - - - - - - -
- &nbs//www.matronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.co===================0A>=0A>=0A
>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">ht
tp://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics
.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com
===============
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Thank you Andy. My Europa lives in a nice hangar on a country airfield in Kenya
for 10 months each year. The other 2 months, it sits at the main lightplane
airfield of Kenya, outside in the sun and rain (because there is no space in
any hangar there), waiting for a Civil Aviation inspector to inspect it for its
annual "Kenya Restricted Certificate of Airworthiness". Eventually an inspector
will come, usually facilitated to do so by a fat brown envelope. This happens
year after year. I have a Cambrai cover for the fuselage, but nothing for
wings and tailplane, so last year, at inspection time, I had a local cover-maker
make covers for wings and tail. The sun came out, it rained, more sun,
and more rain. The covers were soaked, then warmed, soaked again etc. Finally
the inspector came and went, advising me that to get the Certificate renewed,
I would have to paint the words 'no push' in red paint on the ailerons. Two
months later, I noticed some of the osmosis bubbles had formed on the stabilator
surface, not many, but entirely due to wet covers and osmosis. So moral of
the story, try to keep it out of sun and rain for long period, but if you cant
avoid this, don't put covers on the wings and tail.
Best
Richard
Kenya
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403992#403992
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| Subject: | Outside aircraft |
Hi Richard,
Thanks for your message,personally I would never leave DH outside for any
Appreciable time,with or without covers.
I've done quite a bit of gliding in my time,so I'm well familiar with composites
and their draw-backs.
Did you sand back,dry out and re-paint
Your tailplanes?
The aircraft I saw here in the U.K.at first
Looked ok,but on closer inspection,it was obvious it was in a sorry state,with
Quite a few blisters mid-way on the D-box on the wing,..just where you don't want
to see them.
So,it looks like it would require major strip dry out at 35-40 c dehumidifiers,
Silica gel etc,and even then there could
Be underlying freezing damage to the structure,which would require investigation
before any re-painting was
carried out.
If you do leave your aircraft out,a polish with good old beeswax is a good tip
to help keep the water out.
Best Regards
Andy Cullum.
Sent from my iPhone
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder |
Hi Guys,
I would like to make a few comments / observations, not in any particular o
rder, on some of the postings on here recently.
G-KITS, originally had a set of Classic wings, built by a third party, wher
e the port wing had 1.5 degrees of washIN, not evenly distributed along the
wing, but mostly in the outboard panel. Wings rigged using the root area a
s datum. It flew, as you would expect, one wing low.
Attempts to trim this out with aileron re rigging and flap drooping were un
successful, so the port wing was re rigged, can't remember by how much in d
egrees, but the figure of .3'' down at the leading edge comes to mind.
Went much better after that, with some stall strip juggling it stalled true
, BUT spins in one direction were frightening [ as in change of underpants
frightening !].
G-KITS was then retro fitted with a new set of XS wings,[ the original G-KI
TS wings went on the then retired G-YURO which was lost from active service
in a take off incident when the Arplast prop decided, uncommanded, to go i
nto Beta.........]
Sockets had been unbolted / sweated off, alloy plates replaced and wing ref
itted as per Manual. Seatback spar bush re aligned with a hot, tapered pin
''pugler''. Warm the pin, shove it through the seatback / wing spars and g
o for a coffee.
UV degradation.... the paint would have been AERODUR C100UVR, about as good
as paints get, the registration decals would have been Fascal vinyl, with
a 7 year life... how old is KITS now ?..... Quality polyurathane paints li
ve quite well in Miami and Bahama marina's, unlike some of the ''unquality'
' water thinned cr*p
Wing incidence cock up.......do it correctly, NOW ! Sweat the sockets off
and redo it. Make sure the wings are fully forward, by tieing the spar tang
s forward with rope, or chocking with wedges.
If using a digital level, MAKE SURE YOU READ IT FROM THE SAME DIRECTION [
LOOKING INBOARD AT IT ON THE PORT WING, AND OUTBOARD AT IT ON THE STARBOARD
WING] I have seen builders doing ''dry runs'' and looking inboard at the r
eadout on both wings, any error in the tool itself, or in fuselage levellin
g will be doubled. Tap the level to see which way the reading ''skips'', ge
t the ''skip'' the same on both wings. This will be as close a matters in t
he real world.
Shore the wings in several places so no movement is possible during the ove
rnight Redux cure.
Osmosis.... people are confusing Osmosis with Micro Blistering. What will b
e evident on a painted Epoxy surface is Micro Blistering, where water has g
ot between the paint and the substrate, usually as a result of covering a w
et [ water] surface and letting it sweat like a sauna, the moisture has gon
e through the paint skin and is trapped. Leaving this out in the sun will
usually dry it out. Left uncovered is a better option than covers. Micro Bl
isters are not a structural issue, merely water sitting on top of the epoxy
substrate.
Cover a car with a non breathing cover, left wet, the same Micro Blisterin
g will occur over a steel substrate.
Osmosis [ in the GRP meaning of the word ] is the reaction with chemicals
in / on the glass fibres [ usually the PVA binder holding the CSM together]
and water, usually within polyester resin, which turns to acid [ and will
smell of vinegar if the bubble is popped.]
My Inspector said ''that's the one with all the Mods''....... working from
memory, there were 32 Mods incorporated into the XS Kit by 1996, since the
n there have been 8 MANDATORY MODS, the rest have been upgrades. Put this i
nto perspective, the Slingsby Firefly has 1200 + mods, wonder how many mods
apply to a C150 ?
The tie bar was introduced to allow the Gross weight to be raised to 1370 l
bs, if anyone is happy to have the 1300 lb limit, the tie bar is not requir
ed [ nor is it required to change to the swivelling rear sockets.]
Bit of History, the original G-YURO front wing pins were .75'' long, and th
ere was no top hat stiffener from thigh support to door sill. Pete Clark [b
less him] was ''vigorously exploring the flight envelope'', and pulled a '
'bit'' of G, and the front pin popped out of the socket and rode above sai
d socket. Apart from the ''bang'' which scared the s**t out of Pete and Rog
er Bull [ who was riding shotgun], nothing else happened, though it took so
me effort to de rig the wing later.
A longer front pin [ same length as the flap pin,] and the top hat stiffene
r cured that.
Regarding Inspections, if the Inspector chosen for Permit Renewals only ''k
nowledge'' of the Europa is ''that's the one with all the Mods'', he probab
ly [ or more likely definitely] isn't the Inspector you need to do the Perm
it, especially if you are not the builder of the aircraft.
I once worked on a Europa that the current owner had just bought, with 5 ho
urs flight time since the previous Permit, that had been Inspected by an ''
old timer'' Inspector, and there were so many flight safety faults with it,
I had to ''dob in'' the Inspector to LaaLaaLand. Turns out he was an exper
t in Austers and the like, but knew SFA about the Europa. LAA didn't take a
ny action as he had since retired from Inspecting.
Comparing a C150 with the Europa is pure folly, like comparing a Morris 100
0 with a Ford Focus ST ?
I have 1.4 hrs in a C150, time I am never going to get back..... wasted...
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lamprey <lamprey.richard@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 6:10 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downu
nder
.com>
Getting it right first time is good. But also I dimly remember (from the d
ays
of the Europa Newsletter, around 1997) the tale of G-KITS, the first factor
y
demonstrator for the Classic tri-gear, where one wing was accidentally buil
t
with 1 degree WASHIN, not 1.5 degree washout. You would think it would hav
e
stall/ wingdrop characteristics from hell, but apparently it flew just fine
, and
is still flying - I see its picture online. So perhaps there is some leewa
y in
the AoI.
Richard
Classic Reg 5Y-LRY, Kenya
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403933#403933
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder |
NEv=0Awasn't it an Ivoprop that went into Beta?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_
_______________________________=0A From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>=0AT
o: europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, 5 July 2013, 22:37=0ASubject:
Re: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder
=0A =0A=0A=0AHi Guys,=0AI would like to make a few comments / observations,
not in any particular order, on some of the postings on here recently.=0AG
-KITS, originally had a set of Classic wings, built by a third party, where
the port wing had 1.5 degrees of washIN, not-evenly distributed along th
e wing, but mostly in the outboard panel. Wings rigged using the root area
as datum. It flew, as you would expect, one wing low.=0AAttempts to trim th
is out with aileron re rigging and flap drooping were unsuccessful,-so th
e port wing was re rigged, can't remember by how much in degrees, but the f
igure of .3'' down at the leading edge comes to mind.=0AWent much better af
ter that, with some stall strip juggling it stalled true, BUT spins in one
direction were frightening-[ as in change of underpants frightening !].
=0AG-KITS was then retro fitted with a new set of XS wings,[ the original G
-KITS-wings went on the then retired G-YURO which was lost from active se
rvice in a take off incident-when the Arplast prop decided, uncommanded,
to go into Beta.........]=0ASockets had been unbolted / sweated off, alloy
plates replaced and wing refitted as per Manual. Seatback spar bush re alig
ned with a hot, tapered-pin- ''pugler''. Warm the pin, shove it through
the seatback / wing spars and go for a coffee.=0AUV degradation.... the pa
int would have been AERODUR C100UVR, about as good as paints get, the regis
tration decals would have been Fascal vinyl, with a 7 year life... how old
is KITS now ?..... Quality- polyurathane paints live quite well in Miami
and Bahama marina's, unlike some of the ''unquality'' water thinned cr*p=0A
-=0AWing--incidence cock up.......do it correctly, NOW ! Sweat the so
ckets off and redo it. Make sure the wings are fully forward, by tieing the
spar tangs forward with rope, or chocking with wedges.=0A-If using a-d
igital level, MAKE SURE YOU READ IT FROM THE SAME DIRECTION [ LOOKING INBOA
RD AT IT ON THE PORT WING, AND OUTBOARD AT IT ON THE STARBOARD WING] I have
seen builders doing ''dry runs'' and looking inboard at the readout on bot
h wings, any error in the tool itself, or in fuselage levelling will be dou
bled. Tap the level to see which way the reading ''skips'', get the ''skip'
' the same on both wings. This will be as close a matters in the real world
.-=0AShore the wings in several places so no movement is possible during
the overnight Redux cure.=0A-=0AOsmosis.... people are confusing Osmosis
with Micro Blistering. What will be evident on a painted Epoxy surface is M
icro Blistering, where water has got between the paint and the substrate, u
sually as a result of covering a wet [ water] surface and letting it sweat
like a sauna, the moisture has gone through the paint skin and is trapped.
Leaving this out in- the sun will usually dry it out. Left uncovered is a
better option than covers. Micro Blisters are not a structural issue, mere
ly water sitting on top of the epoxy substrate.=0A-Cover a car with a non
breathing cover, left wet, the same Micro Blistering will occur over a ste
el substrate. =0AOsmosis [- in the GRP meaning of the word ]-is the rea
ction with chemicals in / on the glass fibres [ usually the PVA binder hold
ing the CSM together] and water, usually within- polyester-resin,-whi
ch turns to acid [ and will smell of vinegar if the bubble is-popped.]=0A
-=0AMy Inspector said ''that's the one with all the Mods''.......- work
ing from memory, there were 32 Mods incorporated into the XS Kit by 1996, s
ince then there have been 8 MANDATORY MODS, the rest have been upgrades. Pu
t this into perspective, the Slingsby Firefly has 1200 + mods, wonder how m
any mods apply to a C150 ?=0AThe tie bar was introduced to allow the Gross
weight to be raised to 1370 lbs, if anyone is happy to have the 1300 lb lim
it, the tie bar is not required [ nor is it required to change to the swive
lling rear sockets.]=0ABit of History, the original G-YURO front wing pins
were .75'' long, and there was no top hat stiffener from thigh support to d
oor sill. Pete Clark [bless him] was ''vigorously exploring the flight enve
lope'', and- pulled a ''bit'' of- G, and the front pin popped out of th
e socket and rode above said socket. Apart from the ''bang'' which scared t
he s**t out of Pete and Roger Bull [ who was riding shotgun], nothing else
happened, though it took some effort to de rig-the wing later.=0AA longer
front pin [ same length as the flap pin,] and the top hat stiffener cured
-that.-=0ARegarding Inspections, if the Inspector chosen for Permit Ren
ewals only ''knowledge'' of the Europa is ''that's the one with all the Mod
s'', he probably [ or more likely definitely] isn't the Inspector you need
to do the Permit, especially if you are not the builder of the aircraft.=0A
I once worked on a Europa that the current owner had just bought, with 5 ho
urs flight time since the previous Permit, that had been Inspected by an ''
old timer'' Inspector, and there were so many flight safety faults with it,
I had to ''dob in'' the Inspector to LaaLaaLand. Turns out he was an exper
t in-Austers and the like, but knew SFA about the-Europa. LAA didn't ta
ke any action as he had since retired from Inspecting.=0AComparing a C150 w
ith the Europa is pure folly, like comparing a Morris 1000 with- a Ford F
ocus ST ?=0AI have 1.4 hrs in a C150, time I am never going to get back....
. wasted...=0A--=0A-=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Richard Lam
prey <lamprey.richard@gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.c
om>=0ASent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 6:10 pm=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: Angle of I
ncidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder=0A=0A=0A--> Europa-List message
posted by: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard@gmail.com> Getting it right
first time is good. But also I dimly remember (from the days =0Aof the Eur
opa Newsletter, around 1997) the tale of G-KITS, the first factory =0Ademon
strator for the Classic tri-gear, where one wing was accidentally built =0A
with 1 degree WASHIN, not 1.5 degree washout. You would think it would hav
e =0Astall/ wingdrop characteristics from hell, but apparently it flew just
fine, and =0Ais still flying - I see its picture online. So perhaps there
is some leeway in =0Athe AoI. Richard=0AClassic Reg 5Y-LRY, Kenya Read thi
s topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403933#4
03933 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0Atp:
//forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A
=============
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Outside aircraft |
Sounds to me like this ship would deserve full sand bagging for checking POS and
NEG G-loading before flight test...
On Jul 5, 2013, at 11:33 AM, andrew cullum wrote:
> The aircraft I saw here in the U.K.at first
> Looked ok,but on closer inspection,it was obvious it was in a sorry state,with
> Quite a few blisters mid-way on the D-box on the wing,..just where you don't
want to see them.
> So,it looks like it would require major strip dry out at 35-40 c dehumidifiers,
> Silica gel etc,and even then there could
> Be underlying freezing damage to the structure,which would require investigation
before any re-painting was
> carried out.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: windscreen de-fogging |
i have read the discussion on the issue of defogging and it appears that
are no actual answers out there yet regarding airflow, temperature, etc.
I will add my meager data to the pool
My bird has a Blue Mountain EFIS 4 series which shuts down at temps
above abt 144F. I have a 24 cfm fan in a convective tower directly
above the EFIS leading into a 3 in louver directed into the plexi.
On a 90F sunny day as so many local days are here on Long Island,
without the fan, the EFIS will blackout within an hour of the plane out
of the hangar, flying or not. The installed fan slows the inexorable rise somewhat
say by 15 min to overheat. Clearly unacceptable cooling. However,
it has actually cleared plexi condensation in two instances where it existed,
in about 5 minutes (this was light grey mist, not dripping condensation).
As I contemplate my move to much warmer clime, i will need to
re-engineer the cooling. These little muffin fans are not likely to be useful
even if ganged together. High velocity outside air is probably the best answer.
Actual flight testing is needed.
As usual, your mileage will vary
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404012#404012
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downunder |
No, it was definitely the Arplast, the Ivoprop gears stripped when being cy
cled on the bench ! We never flew it. As I said before, if an Ivoprop was u
sed as a ceiling fan, I wouldn't walk under it without a crash helmet on !
The Arplast had done the same trick on the ground previously, Roger Sherida
n P1, with me shotgun, sitting in front of the hangar at Wombleton, Went Be
ta and we backed up !
Alan whatshisname came back to sort it, with bits he had left over from wha
t looked like his R/C helicopter bin, never trusted it , pretty poor engine
ering.
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 5, 2013 11:06 pm
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger D
ownunder
NEv
wasn't it an Ivoprop that went into Beta?
Graham
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, 5 July 2013, 22:37
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger
Downunder
Hi Guys,
I would like to make a few comments / observations, not in any particular o
rder, on some of the postings on here recently.
G-KITS, originally had a set of Classic wings, built by a third party, wher
e the port wing had 1.5 degrees of washIN, not evenly distributed along the
wing, but mostly in the outboard panel. Wings rigged using the root area a
s datum. It flew, as you would expect, one wing low.
Attempts to trim this out with aileron re rigging and flap drooping were un
successful, so the port wing was re rigged, can't remember by how much in d
egrees, but the figure of .3'' down at the leading edge comes to mind.
Went much better after that, with some stall strip juggling it stalled true
, BUT spins in one direction were frightening [ as in change of underpants
frightening !].
G-KITS was then retro fitted with a new set of XS wings,[ the original G-KI
TS wings went on the then retired G-YURO which was lost from active service
in a take off incident when the Arplast prop decided, uncommanded, to go i
nto Beta.........]
Sockets had been unbolted / sweated off, alloy plates replaced and wing ref
itted as per Manual. Seatback spar bush re aligned with a hot, tapered pin
''pugler''. Warm the pin, shove it through the seatback / wing spars and g
o for a coffee.
UV degradation.... the paint would have been AERODUR C100UVR, about as good
as paints get, the registration decals would have been Fascal vinyl, with
a 7 year life... how old is KITS now ?..... Quality polyurathane paints li
ve quite well in Miami and Bahama marina's, unlike some of the ''unquality'
' water thinned cr*p
Wing incidence cock up.......do it correctly, NOW ! Sweat the sockets off
and redo it. Make sure the wings are fully forward, by tieing the spar tang
s forward with rope, or chocking with wedges.
If using a digital level, MAKE SURE YOU READ IT FROM THE SAME DIRECTION [
LOOKING INBOARD AT IT ON THE PORT WING, AND OUTBOARD AT IT ON THE STARBOARD
WING] I have seen builders doing ''dry runs'' and looking inboard at the r
eadout on both wings, any error in the tool itself, or in fuselage levellin
g will be doubled. Tap the level to see which way the reading ''skips'', ge
t the ''skip'' the same on both wings. This will be as close a matters in t
he real world.
Shore the wings in several places so no movement is possible during the ove
rnight Redux cure.
Osmosis.... people are confusing Osmosis with Micro Blistering. What will b
e evident on a painted Epoxy surface is Micro Blistering, where water has g
ot between the paint and the substrate, usually as a result of covering a w
et [ water] surface and letting it sweat like a sauna, the moisture has gon
e through the paint skin and is trapped. Leaving this out in the sun will
usually dry it out. Left uncovered is a better option than covers. Micro Bl
isters are not a structural issue, merely water sitting on top of the epoxy
substrate.
Cover a car with a non breathing cover, left wet, the same Micro Blisterin
g will occur over a steel substrate.
Osmosis [ in the GRP meaning of the word ] is the reaction with chemicals
in / on the glass fibres [ usually the PVA binder holding the CSM together]
and water, usually within polyester resin, which turns to acid [ and will
smell of vinegar if the bubble is popped.]
My Inspector said ''that's the one with all the Mods''....... working from
memory, there were 32 Mods incorporated into the XS Kit by 1996, since the
n there have been 8 MANDATORY MODS, the rest have been upgrades. Put this i
nto perspective, the Slingsby Firefly has 1200 + mods, wonder how many mods
apply to a C150 ?
The tie bar was introduced to allow the Gross weight to be raised to 1370 l
bs, if anyone is happy to have the 1300 lb limit, the tie bar is not requir
ed [ nor is it required to change to the swivelling rear sockets.]
Bit of History, the original G-YURO front wing pins were .75'' long, and th
ere was no top hat stiffener from thigh support to door sill. Pete Clark [b
less him] was ''vigorously exploring the flight envelope'', and pulled a '
'bit'' of G, and the front pin popped out of the socket and rode above sai
d socket. Apart from the ''bang'' which scared the s**t out of Pete and Rog
er Bull [ who was riding shotgun], nothing else happened, though it took so
me effort to de rig the wing later.
A longer front pin [ same length as the flap pin,] and the top hat stiffene
r cured that.
Regarding Inspections, if the Inspector chosen for Permit Renewals only ''k
nowledge'' of the Europa is ''that's the one with all the Mods'', he probab
ly [ or more likely definitely] isn't the Inspector you need to do the Perm
it, especially if you are not the builder of the aircraft.
I once worked on a Europa that the current owner had just bought, with 5 ho
urs flight time since the previous Permit, that had been Inspected by an ''
old timer'' Inspector, and there were so many flight safety faults with it,
I had to ''dob in'' the Inspector to LaaLaaLand. Turns out he was an exper
t in Austers and the like, but knew SFA about the Europa. LAA didn't take a
ny action as he had since retired from Inspecting.
Comparing a C150 with the Europa is pure folly, like comparing a Morris 100
0 with a Ford Focus ST ?
I have 1.4 hrs in a C150, time I am never going to get back..... wasted...
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Lamprey <lamprey.richard@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 6:10 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Angle of Incidence on a Classic Taildragger Downu
nder
.com>
Getting it right first time is good. But also I dimly remember (from the d
ays
of the Europa Newsletter, around 1997) the tale of G-KITS, the first factor
y
demonstrator for the Classic tri-gear, where one wing was accidentally buil
t
with 1 degree WASHIN, not 1.5 degree washout. You would think it would hav
e
stall/ wingdrop characteristics from hell, but apparently it flew just fine
, and
is still flying - I see its picture online. So perhaps there is some leewa
y in
the AoI.
Richard
Classic Reg 5Y-LRY, Kenya
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403933#403933
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator_blank"; href="http://forums.matronics.
com/">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Outside aircraft |
Yes,good point Fred.
Just to illustrate my point,a few years ago there was a Rallye Minerva parked at
a local airfield.
It had a composite Hoffman variable pitch propellor,almost brand new.
Sadly, the owner hadnt paid the bill for
Maintenance,so the company put it outside,without removing the propellor.
It remained outside for about 18 months,which meant particularly cold temps in
winter,snow etc.
I examined the prop and lo and behold,
Every blade had a nasty crack at the base close to the vari pitch hub,about 2"
long....water ingress and freezing damage obviously.
I rest my case.
Andy Cullum.
Sent from my iPhone
On 6 Jul 2013, at 00:28, "Fred Klein" <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
>
> Sounds to me like this ship would deserve full sand bagging for checking POS
and NEG G-loading before flight test...
>
> On Jul 5, 2013, at 11:33 AM, andrew cullum wrote:
>
>> The aircraft I saw here in the U.K.at first
>> Looked ok,but on closer inspection,it was obvious it was in a sorry state,with
>> Quite a few blisters mid-way on the D-box on the wing,..just where you don't
want to see them.
>> So,it looks like it would require major strip dry out at 35-40 c dehumidifiers,
>> Silica gel etc,and even then there could
>> Be underlying freezing damage to the structure,which would require investigation
before any re-painting was
>> carried out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: windscreen de-fogging |
You might want to try a couple of the 12v brushless DC fans, they range in
size from 30mm up to about 200mm
They move a lot of air for their size, like the ones you find in your
computer to ventilate the case
I had two network file servers running inside a closed cupboard total load
of about 1000w with a hole in the bottom
Back of the cupboard and one 100mm brushless DC fan to extract the air at
the top and didn't have an issue with them overheating
Worth a look at least, they normally run about $10 each, or free if you can
get your hands on a couple of old computers and pull them apart
To get the fans out of the power supply's
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Fan-12V-120mm-x-120mm-x-2
5m-/180729347608?pt=AU_Components&hash=item2a144efe18
this link just goes to one I found on ebay no doubt you could find your own
regards
craig
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| Subject: | Re: windscreen de-fogging |
Ira, I have a comparable system to keep my Blue Mountain
EFIS happy, although my fan has inlet above pax feet and
outlet through a dozen holes blowing on to pilot screen.
Moderately effective as demister, but EFIS starts to
complain when temps get up into vicinity of 35C (95 in
your old units). I have found that laying a layer of 5mm
neoprene with foil on one side, across top of panel (which
is painted dark blue for visibility) cuts out direct sun
heating and addresses the problem. So I have that Neoprene
sheet available in the back and use it intermittently in
exceptionally hot conditions
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:32:15 -0700
"rampil" <ira.rampil@gmail.com> wrote:
><ira.rampil@gmail.com>
>
> i have read the discussion on the issue of defogging and
>it appears that
> are no actual answers out there yet regarding airflow,
>temperature, etc.
>
> I will add my meager data to the pool
>
> My bird has a Blue Mountain EFIS 4 series which shuts
>down at temps
> above abt 144F. I have a 24 cfm fan in a convective
>tower directly
> above the EFIS leading into a 3 in louver directed into
>the plexi.
> On a 90F sunny day as so many local days are here on
>Long Island,
> without the fan, the EFIS will blackout within an hour
>of the plane out
> of the hangar, flying or not. The installed fan slows
>the inexorable rise somewhat
> say by 15 min to overheat. Clearly unacceptable cooling.
>However,
> it has actually cleared plexi condensation in two
>instances where it existed,
> in about 5 minutes (this was light grey mist, not
>dripping condensation).
>
> As I contemplate my move to much warmer clime, i will
>need to
> re-engineer the cooling. These little muffin fans are
>not likely to be useful
> even if ganged together. High velocity outside air is
>probably the best answer. Actual flight testing is
>needed.
>
> As usual, your mileage will vary
>
> Ira
>
> --------
> Ira N224XS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404012#404012
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Un/Subscription,
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
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