---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 10/24/13: 13 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:15 AM - Re: Classic Manuel (Pete Lawless) 2. 02:55 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Frans Veldman) 3. 03:54 AM - Re: Re: MOD 78 (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 4. 08:21 AM - Re: Intercom Do you need one (David Joyce) 5. 08:43 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (goff) 6. 08:47 AM - Re: Classic Manuel (Andrew Sarangan) 7. 08:59 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (goff) 8. 09:17 AM - Re: Re: Coolant Radiator (Jeremy Fisher) 9. 09:34 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Neville Eyre) 10. 09:46 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Paul McAllister) 11. 02:23 PM - Re: Battery questions (Alan Carter) 12. 02:38 PM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Tony Renshaw) 13. 07:14 PM - Re: MOD 78 (djaflyact) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:15:08 AM PST US From: "Pete Lawless" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Classic Manuel Hi Frank My build number was 109 and it was the vertical method when I did mine in the mid 90's. Any upside down installations must have been very early on. Regards Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of spcialeffects Sent: 24 October 2013 04:29 Subject: Europa-List: Classic Manuel I am just about to bond the 1/2" bushes to the cockpit module along with the spar end caps but have a question. The original method was to set the cockpit module upside down and then rig everything but now they get you to stand it up on end to rig it all why? Also I would prefer to rig it all the 1st way because I can support the wings much safer and better this way, so could someone please send me the original pages of the Manuel to refer to. Thanks Frank Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411280#411280 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:55:47 AM PST US From: Frans Veldman Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 Take a look at www.aluminiumradiators.com They produce the Rotax radiators. The quality is high, support is excellent and the prices are very reasonable. They are also quite easy at building radiators at custom spec. I had my special radiator made there too. If you replace the standard SX-radiator, you might consider to make it "thinner" (less "depth"). Although this sounds contradictionary, this improves the airflow through the radiator and enhances cooling. The standard radiator is way too thick. Think about it this way: the air flowing through the radiator is picking up heat. When it arrives at the rear half of the radiator, the air has been warmed up during its journey through the front half, and is unable to offer much further cooling. The math says that if you double the depth of the radiator with 100%, it only offers 25% more cooling. However the airflow reduces due to internal friction, so at some point a thicker radiator will even offer less cooling than a thinner one. The Europa-XS radiator is way past the top of that curve, especially at lower airspeeds (like on the ground). You won't find such a thick radiator in other modern airplanes. Yes, the P51 had a thick radiator, but it was flying with quite a different speed than your Europa. In my airplane I have a thin radiator, and it was only when I took out the large bulky radiator that all my cooling issues disappeared. So, if you have to swap your radiator anyway, it might well worth it to allow for a little improvement. Frans -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v2.0.18 (GNU/Linux) iQIcBAEBAgAGBQJSaO6GAAoJEC+zXxqs0ZzVaMcP/i3AEuprwuZadFW56VTGnNX5 mUDaqSKgg7Jmdtx6QuL7DjYDWABuL1HKTPxMFpTH/VQxh3ncDQiBk4/dEAjgNGu2 nLzgSL8mbEh8H2iYomGOUNQnCHMn1HI+9kL03YogG5Wxz8X/ZxZ3bfU3Z2cdmjMb t56y5atrPBW+VSvXIitnw+J401tPVABjKXSyDu1R8/0CgwPdcPa4llwLzB+JtcPQ t6hNRm7G+XDckgNlIyAYUa4fXtm3KAXJ0MRbfqB80sxaxRGGlH04vEUB3B1tC0gT fm3poda5N3FgP1GEXb/1pVQ7Dk36Gsi/ALKfo/lQz+x3iHX/y5Qwg6XAQE7QYBuU ODXhHgtq3xs2ivJ5TWO39n4wwhT7r5iDIuMSTtjzMg4l3d2hMupG9DbdH0MzibK5 mYvuAnMxN/5K+iEHNSybKuKn298PKKHihXJTt0OKKo585w99/ffoob0u0g0omUMF DGhGyt0ginW3rxdNwDtjHoFhQ4y87SyF1/GVv7GhhoNIgL36a1Mm/5P7NZSRfDcA uLW0s2O7vjU3saEZvRIyg07tQdJL3WeViG8/GJf7BQH7n9WpmNP8Ar0tzsUYgh8E apicaq63XbAVavafYz3GDFi/vuRARUfi2cdjfxVtC82il5ZB4gqZE0bD+725USuS 3KxlJCq9Cjjo6tcGsHgj =NmR0 -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:54:30 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78 Nev=0AI like your technique wetting the carbon, my only difference is that I use industrial cling film instead of polythene.=0AMuch easier to squeegee .=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Neville Eyre =0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, 23 October 2013, 22:29=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78=0A =0A=0A=0AH i Dave,=0ATo do the job properly, you are going to have to take out the ail eron and airbrake pushrods anyway, so not much more of a job to grind / swe at off the tufnol block at the same time. Take measurements as to where the block is so you can replace it in exactly the same position. Best to keep to what has been tested / proven ?=0AMake up some sort of jig so you can fi nd the hole for the aileron belcrank pivot after the tang has been covered with the carbon wrap [ you will need a longer bolt =0Aafter the wrap ?]=0AT he Instructions imply the carbon cloth goes into and ends in-the corner, I didn't like all that extra stiffness stopping in one place, so I took the 4 side plies [ front and rear face] around the corner, onto the root rib, -stepping them off at 2'', 1.5'', 1'', .5'', and finished the 4 wraps-i n the corner.=0AHere's the tip regarding laying up the carbon cloth.... car bon is black and shiny when it is dry, and black and shiny when it is wet, so how does the laminator know if he [ or she] has got it all wet ?=0AWeigh ing out the cloth and using the same amount of resin is one way, but there may [ will] be areas that will end up too dry, especially if wetting it uph ill from underneath....... where a fair amount of resin-will go up your a rm !=0AGet some medium weight clear polythene sheet. Wash / wipe any releas e film contaminates off with paper towel and acetone.=0AMake a card templat e for the side plies, and the wrap plies to use to draw round.=0ADraw on th e- finished shape of each lay up onto the poly' with a ball pen, do this for every individual ply, and cut them out with a couple of inches to spare all around. Cut out the same number of blank- pieces the same size.=0ATu rn the poly' over onto a poly' covered bench so the pen ink is on the under side, place the precut [ slightly oversize] carbon cloth on top of the- p oly', so it overhangs the pen line, and pull the fibres about to get it all square and even. [the carbon is far-looser in weave, it goes out of shap e easier, but not as soft to go round corners.]=0AWet the carbon cloth init ially with a brush, dibbing rather than brushing so as not to disturbthe we ave, when it is wet and stuck to the poly', give it a gentle go over with a foam roller. Cover that with one of the plain sheets of poly', and squeege e through the poly' so it goes clear and you can see no dry weave areas thr u it. Flip the poly' cloth sandwhich over and squeegee it on the other side until there are no visible dry weave areas, you can chase the exess resin about to wet out any dry areas. Once it looks all wet, squeegee quite hard to wipe out the exess out of the sandwhich, and scoop up that resin off the bench back into your pot.=0AFlip the sandwhich back over, and cut through all of it with SHARP scissors, to the pen line which will just about be vis able in good light. Bin the offcut, you now have a poor mans prepreg ! Peel off the poly from the side you want to stick it on, and you can carry it o nto the job, it won't stretch / sag / and can be placed and removed until y ou are happy with the position. Squeegee it through the poly and chase out any air.=0APeel off the poly', and then roll over the carbon with a roller made from plain and spring washers, to get all the air out and really mash the cloth onto the surface.=0AWipe off the poly' covered bench to remove al l resin, and start again. You will need to put on new gloves for each ply, as you won't be able to smooth / stretch the cloth about with sticky gloves . Reckon on using a couple of gallons of acetone, 2 or three paper towel ro lls and 200 gloves for all of this, with all the poly' off cuts and sheets you will fill 3 dustbin liners !=0ADo a trial poly' prepreg before the real deal, to get the hang of doing it, really makes it easy compared with tryi ng to juggle with the cloth and wetting on the job. Ensure there are no cre ases / wrinkles in the poly, tailor the ink lines to miss any.=0AGood luck, =0ANev=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A----Original Message-----=0AFrom: djaflyac t =0ATo: europa-list =0ASen t: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 1:47 am=0ASubject: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78=0A=0A=0A--> Europa-List message posted by: "djaflyact" Thanks Ne v. I have ground one spar tang today. Had to quit due to roasting in =0Athe sun and just the mess of it. I'm wondering if anyone has done this mod on a =0Aflying airplane. The reason I ask is that the speed brake control tufn ol block =0Ais right there where the fiberglass is layed up against the roo t rib. To grind =0Athose payers off the root rib, I would ahve to remove th e controls for the speed =0Abrakes and also the ailerons. What I was hoping to do is leave the fiberglass on =0Athe spar out about 2 to 3 inches and t hen add the new layers as called for in =0Athe build manual, but only run t hem up the root rib where possible. Otherwise, =0Athe new plies would essen tially splice onto the existing pile on the root rib. =0AWhere I can run th em up the root rib, it would be thicker than called for in the =0Amanual. T here is also the issue of the glass that is holding on the wing root =0Afai ring, which is why I'm asking about not taking off the layers that are now on =0Athe root rib. I'm still getting lost in the terminology - roves - tow s, etc. Is there a source =0Aon the internet that defines what these terms mean? I'm attaching a photo of it now, with the intensifier board on top fo r scale. Oh - How far does the carbon fibre cloth go toward the rot rib? AL l the way to =0Athe 90 degree corner? Off to shower off the dust - you are right - it goes everywhere. I am wearing a =0Aspace suit and I still get it on me. Dave PS On one spar, There was a spot of somthing that looks almost like sap in a =0Aspot when I was grinding the shear web layers - toward th e wing root. Like a =0Apocket of sap or a pocket of something that was not cured. This is about a 12 =0Ayear old spar. Read this topic online here: h ttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411138#411138 Attachments: htt p://forums.matronics.com//files/grinding_done_196.jpg arget="_blank">http ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_b ==== ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:21:25 AM PST US From: "David Joyce" Subject: Re: Europa-List: Intercom Do you need one My thanks to Paul, Graeme & Pete. You seem to have answered my concerns (echoed by Pete) related to a suspicion that built into the radio intercoms give poor results. I will go for the GNC 250 and bin my separate intercom. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On Wed, 23 Oct 2013 12:19:12 -0500 Paul McAllister wrote: > Hello David, > > I have used the internal intercom on the SL30 for >several years and it > works quite nicely. > > Is there any reason why you would not use the internal >intercom in the Garmin > GNC255 ? > > Paul ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:43:02 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Coolant Radiator From: "goff" Philip, Gary, Mike, Kevin, Bob & Frans, Thanks so much for your replies, so many good sources out there. I've learned a lot. Based on Philip & Gary's recommendation we shipped our radiator for repair today to http://www.gmxradiators.co.uk/ This is probably the cheapest and easiest option for us at the moment, but I love Frans' idea of a thinner rad. For five years we've had to manage coolant temperatures rather than forget about them. We'll certainly look into this. Goff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411320#411320 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:47:31 AM PST US From: Andrew Sarangan Subject: Re: Europa-List: Classic Manuel Fred Thanks for your input. Unfortunately one has to back out to the thumbnails in order to get to another photo. I suppose I could put links in each frame to advance to the next, but I wanted to keep the overhead of each frame low so the response is fast. On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 2:08 AM, Fred Klein wrote: > > On Oct 23, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Andrew Sarangan wrote: > > If you are interested, you can see my > setup at this site: > > http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/index.html > > > Andrew...great site... > > Is there a way to scroll thru your photos?...or must one click back to the > small images every time in order to move forward? > > Fred > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:59:11 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Coolant Radiator From: "goff" Frans, Your link to www.aluminiumradiators.com doesn't work. Do you have another? Goff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411322#411322 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:17:34 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Coolant Radiator From: Jeremy Fisher The correct address is www.aluminiumracing.com, and I can vouch for the quality of their rads. The one I got from them was beautifully made, and considerably cheaper than the Rotax one. Jerry Fisher On Oct 24, 2013, at 11:58 AM, goff wrote: > > Frans, > > Your link to www.aluminiumradiators.com doesn't work. > Do you have another? > > Goff > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411322#411322 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:34:49 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator From: Neville Eyre Philip, I'm afraid I have to tell you, you are talking out of your southern hemisph ere ! The XS radiator was made specifically for Europa, by a well established Mot orsport supplier, never was from a motorcycle, and not from anyone in Saffr on Walden, or in fact anywhere in Essex. I know who and where, 'aint in Ess ex ! The company who make these for Europa have a very long lead time, I underst and a new batch is due to arrive at Europa some time very soon. Having one custom made will cost more than having a stock one from Europa. Having said that, I would look at having the original one repaired, any goo d alloy welder could do it easily. Do a pressure test, in a bucket of water to be sure all is well before refitting. Cheers, Nev. -----Original Message----- From: Philip Levi Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 10:11 pm Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator Goff, Mine is a Rotax UL but I had the same problem last April and Europa factory could not help. It is actually a motor cycle radiator and my engineer con tacted the original manufacturers (who had previously supplied Europa). I know they provided an excellent service very quickly, they did not replace the radiator but repaired it and gave it a full renovation job for about a third of the cost Europa would have charged for a new one. It came back lo oking like new and in perfect condition. I have spoken to my engineer and inspector, Gary Johnson, he recalls (from memory) it was a company in Saffron Walden, but will check out the name and contact details tonight and send them to you. He can be contacted on . I have just searched on Google and found a firm of motor cycle repairers an d restorers in Saffron Walden called Motorcycle Restoration Company (next t o Audley End Station), Unit 3, Wenden Court, Station Road, Wendens Ambro, S affron Walden, Essex, CB11 4LB, tel. 01799 542323/07734 591456, www.motorcy clerestorationcompany.com. There is also another motorcycle shop in Saffro n Walden, Bert's Motorcycles, 13b Debden Road, Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4AA, Tel. 01799 525611. I have no idea whether it was either of them or ne ither, but worth a phone call. Otherwise contact Gary tonight or he will co ntact you. Yours sincerely, Philip Philip J. Levi Europa Monowheel Classic, G-BWWB , based at Old Warden. On 23 October 2013 13:12, goff wrote: The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to rep lace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. Does anyone know of any other source? Goff Moore Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://forums.matronics.com le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:21 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator From: Paul McAllister Hi Had mine repaired and pressure tested for $50 by local radiator shop. Failing that I have a second hand one that I probably won't use if you want to buy it. Paul On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 11:33 AM, Neville Eyre wrote: > Philip, > I'm afraid I have to tell you, you are talking out of your southern > hemisphere ! > The XS radiator was made specifically for Europa, by a well established > Motorsport supplier, never was from a motorcycle, and not from anyone in > Saffron Walden, or in fact anywhere in Essex. I know who and where, 'aint > in Essex ! > The company who make these for Europa have a very long lead time, I > understand a new batch is due to arrive at Europa some time very soon. > Having one custom made will cost more than having a stock one from Europa. > Having said that, I would look at having the original one repaired, any > good alloy welder could do it easily. Do a pressure test, in a bucket of > water to be sure all is well before refitting. > Cheers, > Nev. > -----Original Message----- > From: Philip Levi > To: europa-list > Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 10:11 pm > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator > > Goff, > > Mine is a Rotax UL but I had the same problem last April and Europa > factory could not help. It is actually a motor cycle radiator and my > engineer contacted the original manufacturers (who had previously supplied > Europa). I know they provided an excellent service very quickly, they did > not replace the radiator but repaired it and gave it a full renovation job > for about a third of the cost Europa would have charged for a new one. It > came back looking like new and in perfect condition. > > I have spoken to my engineer and inspector, Gary Johnson, he recalls > (from memory) it was a company in Saffron Walden, but will check out the > name and contact details tonight and send them to you. He can be contacted > on . > > I have just searched on Google and found a firm of motor cycle repairers > and restorers in Saffron Walden called Motorcycle Restoration Company (next > to Audley End Station), Unit 3, Wenden Court, Station Road, Wendens Ambro, > Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4LB, tel. 01799 542323/07734 591456, > www.motorcyclerestorationcompany.com. There is also another motorcycle > shop in Saffron Walden, Bert's Motorcycles, 13b Debden Road, Saffron > Walden, Essex, CB11 4AA, Tel. 01799 525611. I have no idea whether it > was either of them or neither, but worth a phone call. Otherwise contact > Gary tonight or he will contact you. > > Yours sincerely, > *Philip* > * > * > *Philip J. Levi* > * > Europa Monowheel Classic, G-BWWB , based at Old Warden. > > * > > > On 23 October 2013 13:12, goff wrote: > >> >> The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to >> replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. >> >> Does anyone know of any other source? >> >> Goff Moore >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> ========== >> http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> le, List Admin. >> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > * > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 02:23:54 PM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Battery questions From: "Alan Carter" Hi All. Went flying today first time for a couple of weeks. Tested out a few things, on the 914. Master Switch OFF, Alternator On, engine kept running, Alternator OFF, Master ON, engine kept running, Ammeter 11.9 Both OFF, engine kept running ,Alternator providing spark, then later stopped starved of fuel. I must say even sitting on the ground when the engine quit it was alarming, I was under the impression it was the same as the spark, with its own little separate circuitry that would keep one pump going regardless of switch position. Having seen 11.9 volts on battery with everything turned off , I think I would make for the nearest airfield, Anyone every done a test on this, Obviously it will depend on how good you battery is, so a middle of the road figure would be useful. Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411355#411355 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:38:58 PM PST US From: Tony Renshaw Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator Hi Philip, I live in the Southern Hemisphere, and whilst I know most of the worlds population doesn't, we have feelings down under. We aren't precious though. ;-) TR > On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 11:33 AM, Neville Eyre wrote: > Philip, > I'm afraid I have to tell you, you are talking out of your southern hemisphere ! > The XS radiator was made specifically for Europa, by a well established Motorsport supplier, never was from a motorcycle, and not from anyone in Saffron Walden, or in fact anywhere in Essex. I know who and where, 'aint in Essex ! > The company who make these for Europa have a very long lead time, I understand a new batch is due to arrive at Europa some time very soon. Having one custom made will cost more than having a stock one from Europa. > Having said that, I would look at having the original one repaired, any good alloy welder could do it easily. Do a pressure test, in a bucket of water to be sure all is well before refitting. > Cheers, > Nev. > -----Original Message----- > From: Philip Levi > To: europa-list > Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 10:11 pm > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator > > Goff, > > Mine is a Rotax UL but I had the same problem last April and Europa factory could not help. It is actually a motor cycle radiator and my engineer contacted the original manufacturers (who had previously supplied Europa). I know they provided an excellent service very quickly, they did not replace the radiator but repaired it and gave it a full renovation job for about a third of the cost Europa would have charged for a new one. It came back looking like new and in perfect condition. > > I have spoken to my engineer and inspector, Gary Johnson, he recalls (from memory) it was a company in Saffron Walden, but will check out the name and contact details tonight and send them to you. He can be contacted on . > > I have just searched on Google and found a firm of motor cycle repairers and restorers in Saffron Walden called Motorcycle Restoration Company (next to Audley End Station), Unit 3, Wenden Court, Station Road, Wendens Ambro, Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4LB, tel. 01799 542323/07734 591456, www.motorcyclerestorationcompany.com. There is also another motorcycle shop in Saffron Walden, Bert's Motorcycles, 13b Debden Road, Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4AA, Tel. 01799 525611. I have no idea whether it was either of them or neither, but worth a phone call. Otherwise contact Gary tonight or he will contact you. > > Yours sincerely, > Philip > > Philip J. Levi > Europa Monowheel Classic, G-BWWB , based at Old Warden. > > > On 23 October 2013 13:12, goff wrote: > > The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. > > Does anyone know of any other source? > > Goff Moore > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg > > > > > ========== > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > ========== > http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > le, List Admin. > ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > > > > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:14:41 PM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78 From: "djaflyact" OK - Just as I was starting to feel like this mod was going to go OK..... If I have to remove the controls and the tufnol block, then there is the issue of the fiberglass that is used to mount the wing root fairing. I assume that I have to just grind through all that too? The grinding of fiberglass is easier than carbon, so maybe it won't be too bad. I will not take all of the root rib glass off, fearing grinding into the root rib, which would not be good. I still think that splicing into the existing fiberglass on the spar to root rib junction would work fine, but you are right - it has not been tested. I've finished the grinding, but now have more. I do have one question: The Ampreg 21 says best to use between 18 and 25 degrees C. What is the real world on this? RIght now, the weather is perfect as far as temperature and wind, but in the not too distant future, the temperature will drop to where we will not see above 15C for quite some time. Having to do more grinding pushed me into the colder weather. I have a large hangar, which is very difficult to heat. Thanks for all the inputs. Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411372#411372 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.