Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:38 AM - =?windows-1252?Q?Wing_to_Fuse_Fairings=85=85=2E=2EAlternative_Me?= =?windows-1252?Q?thods=85=2Emaybe? (Tony Renshaw)
2. 04:07 AM - =?utf-8?B?UmU6IEV1cm9wYS1MaXN0OiBXaW5nIHRvIEZ1c2UgRmFpcmluZ3PigKbigKYu?= =?utf-8?B?LkFsdGVybmF0aXZlIE1ldGhvZHPigKYubWF5YmU=? (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
3. 04:50 AM - access door hinges (Jan de Jong)
4. 04:51 AM - Oil and collant radiators (William Daniell)
5. 04:59 AM - more instruments (Jan de Jong)
6. 06:02 AM - Re: Oil and collant radiators (Bob Harrison)
7. 06:22 AM - Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer (Bob Harrison)
8. 06:52 AM - Re: Oil and collant radiators (William Daniell)
9. 06:52 AM - Re: Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer (nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk)
10. 06:56 AM - Re: Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer (pjeffers@talktalk.net)
11. 07:09 AM - Re: more instruments (Max Cointe (Free))
12. 07:24 AM - Re: access door hinges (Robert Borger)
13. 07:33 AM - Re: more instruments (Robert Borger)
14. 07:49 AM - Re: more instruments (Karl Heindl)
15. 08:07 AM - Re: more instruments (Bob Harrison)
16. 08:31 AM - Re: Some nice NZ scenery (duanefamly@aol.com)
17. 09:42 AM - Tyres for tri gear (Kevin Challis)
18. 11:20 AM - Re: Tyres for tri gear (Jeff B)
19. 11:40 AM - Re: Tyres for tri gear (Kevin Challis)
20. 02:59 PM - =?windows-1252?Q?AN3_Nut_Torque_Values=85=85=2Eor_any_Torque_Val?= =?windows-1252?Q?ues_depending_on_type_of_Nuts? (Tony Renshaw)
21. 03:39 PM - =?utf-8?B?UmU6IEV1cm9wYS1MaXN0OiBBTjMgTnV0IFRvcnF1ZSBWYWx1ZXPigKbigKYu?= =?utf-8?B?b3IgYW55IFRvcnF1ZSBWYWx1ZXMgZGVwZW5kaW5nIG9uIHR5cGUgb2YgTnV0?= =?utf-8?B?cw==? (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
22. 05:17 PM - Re: Some nice NZ scenery (Rob Waters)
Message 1
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Subject: | =?windows-1252?Q?Wing_to_Fuse_Fairings=85=85=2E=2EAlternative_Me?= |
=?windows-1252?Q?thods=85=2Emaybe?
Gidday,
I'm after advice regarding the wing to fuse fairings, whether an alternative method
was attempted by anyone else, as I'm a little bit motivated in that regard.
I'm using Fred Kleins P51 trailing edge to fuse mouldings, and it suits that
setup that I know where the extension of the wing meets the fuse, so, I've used
thin foam glued ontop of the wing, shaped to the fuse as a "shelf" which I've
built up on the closeout side, and then lay-up BID ontop to reinforce it.
So, once the original foam on the top of the wing has been removed I now have
the wing extended all the way to the fuse. I can now more accurately shape foam
to the fuse, which especially on the underside requires the foam to be shaped
to be well over 90 degrees, to mate with the face. If I wasn't working upside
down I'd bog it up with car bog, and then shape it, which would create a perfect
layup substrate. Still, I can't, but since I have the wing skin extended
all the way to the fuse i am wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I hear that
it is a good idea to make the fairings flexible, because under aerodynamic
load they need to be able to flex.
My first question is, had anyone made rigid fairings, and do they pop against the
fuse under G, or are there any negatives? My setup if I persist will result
in a triangular cross section which won't flex easily, vs what the book wants,
and also there is the issue of the number of plies i need to use. It didn't
make sense to me to follow the book on the top, and bottom of the Leading edge
where I have on average 10-15 mm max of gap, and with a 25 mm radius, it just
didn't gel with me as the best way. Maybe I should clarify where the gap on the
trailing edge is far more, so it seemed I needed to extend the wing anyway.
Any help with alternative suggestions would be appreciated. I know what the book
says, but my question is more pertinent to those that might have chosen an alternative
method.
Thanks.
regards
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
Message 2
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Subject: | =?utf-8?B?UmU6IEV1cm9wYS1MaXN0OiBXaW5nIHRvIEZ1c2UgRmFpcmluZ3PigKbigKYu?= |
=?utf-8?B?LkFsdGVybmF0aXZlIE1ldGhvZHPigKYubWF5YmU=?
Tony=0AJustin Kennedy has wing root fairings that are very similar to Fred'
s and he's been flying for years.=0AYou could ask him if there are any down
sides to the way he did it (with Ted Gladstone)=0AJustin@systemwise.co.uk T
he upside is a marked performance improvement I understand.=0ASorry can't f
ind any pix=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: T
ony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@matronics.com" <e
uropa-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Monday, 28 October 2013, 7:37=0ASubject:
Europa-List: Wing to Fuse Fairings..Alternative Methods
onyrenshaw268@gmail.com>=0A=0AGidday,=0AI'm after advice regarding the wing
to fuse fairings, whether an alternative method was attempted by anyone el
se, as I'm a little bit motivated in that regard. I'm using Fred Kleins P51
trailing edge to fuse mouldings, and it suits that setup that I know where
the extension of the wing meets the fuse, so, I've used thin foam glued on
top of the wing, shaped to the fuse as a "shelf" which I've built up on the
closeout side, and then lay-up BID ontop to reinforce it. So, once the ori
ginal foam on the top of the wing has been removed I now have the wing exte
nded all the way to the fuse. I can now more accurately shape foam to the f
use, which especially on the underside requires the foam to be shaped to be
well over 90 degrees, to mate with the face. If I wasn't working upside do
wn I'd bog it up with car bog, and then shape it, which would create a perf
ect layup substrate. Still, I can't, but since I have the wing skin extende
d all the way to the fuse i am
wondering if anyone has!=0A=C2- any suggestions. I hear that it is a goo
d idea to make the fairings flexible, because under aerodynamic load they n
eed to be able to flex. =0AMy first question is, had anyone made rigid fair
ings, and do they pop against the fuse under G, or are there any negatives?
My setup if I persist will result in a triangular cross section which won'
t flex easily, vs what the book wants, and also there is the issue of the n
umber of plies i need to use. It didn't make sense to me to follow the book
on the top, and bottom of the Leading edge where I have on average 10-15 m
m max of gap, and with a 25 mm radius, it just didn't gel with me as the be
st way. Maybe I should clarify where the gap on the trailing edge is far mo
re, so it seemed I needed to extend the wing anyway. =0AAny help with alter
native suggestions would be appreciated. I know what the book says, but my
question is more pertinent to those that might have chosen an alternative m
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -=0A_
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2
========================
Message 3
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Subject: | access door hinges |
Hi all,
This may be an old trick but I newly discovered it.
A small access door hinge of 2 x 0.5" one side, 0.25" + 0.5" + 0.25" the
other, can be made to come apart easily by putting in a 4 x 0.5" pin
instead of a 1 x 2" pin. Moving it 0.25" does it. The abutting hinge pin
sections are contained by a split pin or a piece of safety wire through
a 1mm hole at each end.
The advantage is that only very little room at one end of the hinge is
needed.
Jan de Jong
Message 4
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Subject: | Oil and collant radiators |
The manual shows an arrangement with the oil rad behind the coolant rad.
I seem to recall that the optimum cooling was an arrangement with the
coolant rad above the oil rad such that the oil rad dint receive already
heated air. Is this correct and if so where do I find the pics.
Will
Message 5
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Subject: | more instruments |
Hi all,
Further to recent discussion two European instrument producers for a change.
An Italian company:
http://www.flyboxavionics.it/en/index.html
A Slovenian company:
http://www.kanardia.eu/
Any experiences anybody?
Jan de Jong
Message 6
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Subject: | Oil and collant radiators |
Hi! Will,
Since my oil never gets to a reasonable temperature anyway ....... !
The general plan is to have the oil cooler set slightly (about 1.5
inches lower that the water cooling Rad. Also have plans to plug the
gap below both radiators and the bottom of the cowl. When I have time a
friend gave me a thermostat oil controller to elevate the oil
temperature but I need to prove the oil temperature sensor before I
=9Cmonkey=9D with the system. I have a much modified cooling
air intake and also an intake air flap to direct more cold air to the
radiator on a delayed departure situation.
Frans has a wealth of info. on this subject and he may share some of it
with you but we all need to know what Europa and what engine have you ?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Daniell
Sent: 28 October 2013 11:51
Subject: Europa-List: Oil and collant radiators
The manual shows an arrangement with the oil rad behind the coolant rad.
I seem to recall that the optimum cooling was an arrangement with the
coolant rad above the oil rad such that the oil rad dint receive already
heated air. Is this correct and if so where do I find the pics.
Will
Message 7
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Subject: | Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer |
Does Anyone know if the whereabouts of Tony Wickens ?
I have for two weeks tried to connect with him but to no avail .
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
Message 8
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Subject: | Oil and collant radiators |
Graham
Thanks that pretty much answers my question for now as I am in the
process of building the ducting
However further information would be gratefully received especially with
respect to ducting and airflow. I figure that once it=99s all set
up it=99s much easier to deal with a cool running engine than a
hot running engine.
I have a tri.
The engine part is a little more complex. My engine is a turbo 912 - a
Colombian adaptation which originated before the 914 came out to cope
with the high altitudes. This has a very similar footprint to a 914. I
normally limit the MAP to 33=9D. I have one in my ICP Savannah
and it works extremely well and it has never overheated but this
aircraft has a HUGE radiator and lots of space under the cowl.
As far as the heat generation is concerned I suspect it is somewhere
between a 912S and a 914. I have the standard Europa 914 kit components
inc oil and coolant rad.
Thanks
Will
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Harrison
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 08:00
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Oil and collant radiators
Hi! Will,
Since my oil never gets to a reasonable temperature anyway ....... !
The general plan is to have the oil cooler set slightly (about 1.5
inches lower that the water cooling Rad. Also have plans to plug the
gap below both radiators and the bottom of the cowl. When I have time a
friend gave me a thermostat oil controller to elevate the oil
temperature but I need to prove the oil temperature sensor before I
=9Cmonkey=9D with the system. I have a much modified cooling
air intake and also an intake air flap to direct more cold air to the
radiator on a delayed departure situation.
Frans has a wealth of info. on this subject and he may share some of it
with you but we all need to know what Europa and what engine have you ?
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Daniell
Sent: 28 October 2013 11:51
Subject: Europa-List: Oil and collant radiators
The manual shows an arrangement with the oil rad behind the coolant rad.
I seem to recall that the optimum cooling was an arrangement with the
coolant rad above the oil rad such that the oil rad dint receive already
heated air. Is this correct and if so where do I find the pics.
Will
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer |
He's enjoying a well earned break in sunny Florida Bob. If your business
is "Europa Flyer" or club related you can contact me on
"treasurer@theeuropaclub" and I will make sure Tony gets it.
Cheers
Nigel
On 28/10/2013 13:21, Bob Harrison wrote:
>
> Does Anyone know if the whereabouts of Tony Wickens ?
>
> I have for two weeks tried to connect with him but to no avail .
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tony Wickens......... Editor Europa Flyer |
=0AHi Bob,=0AHe is on holiday in Florida. If you leave yo
ur message on matronics I am sure he will reply in due c
ourse. If it is urgent I can contact him directly as I
am not far from where he is staying at this time.=0A=0APete=0A
=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talkt
alk.net>=0ATo: Europa Matronic Circuit <europa-list@matronics.com>=0ASen
t: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 13:35=0ASubject: Europa-List: Tony Wickens..
....... Editor Europa Flyer =0A=0A=0A=0ADoes Anyone know if the
whereabouts of Tony Wickens ?=0AI have for two weeks tried t
o connect with him but to no avail .=0ARegards=0ABob Harrison.
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Message 11
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Subject: | more instruments |
Hi There All
As an happy guy I fly part time on a Dyn'aero MCR 4Seats where the flaps are
directed by a 4 position switch (0-10-17-35) and part time on our gentle
Europa XS where the switch is full analog (wherever you want between 0 to
35). I won't enter in a contest between both option but I'm curious to see
(pics and explanation) if any of the members of the community installed a
servo allowing to have pre-set flaps position (0-10-full).
Have Good Flights,
Max Cointe
mcointe@free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: access door hinges |
Jan,
Im sorry, but Im a visual person. Do you have a picture you could post?
Blue Skies & Tailwinds,
Bob Borger
On Oct 28, 2013, at 6:49 AM, Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong@casema.nl> wrote:
Hi all,
This may be an old trick but I newly discovered it.
A small access door hinge of 2 x 0.5" one side, 0.25" + 0.5" + 0.25" the other,
can be made to come apart easily by putting in a 4 x 0.5" pin instead of a 1
x 2" pin. Moving it 0.25" does it. The abutting hinge pin sections are contained
by a split pin or a piece of safety wire through a 1mm hole at each end.
The advantage is that only very little room at one end of the hinge is needed.
Jan de Jong
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: more instruments |
Max,
I can see the distinct advantage of what you describe. Electric version of the
manual flap with stops at 10, 20, 30, etc. I used to fly an old C-150 with manual
flaps like that and it was really handy. Pull click 1 on downwind, click
2 on base, click 3 on final. Nothing to watch or distract from flying the aircraft.
That could be a mod that would be worth the effort to install.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Oct 28, 2013, at 9:08 AM, Max Cointe (Free) <mcointe@free.fr> wrote:
Hi There All
As an happy guy I fly part time on a Dyn'aero MCR 4Seats where the flaps are
directed by a 4 position switch (0-10-17-35) and part time on our gentle
Europa XS where the switch is full analog (wherever you want between 0 to
35). I won't enter in a contest between both option but I'm curious to see
(pics and explanation) if any of the members of the community installed a
servo allowing to have pre-set flaps position (0-10-full).
Have Good Flights,
Max Cointe
mcointe@free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
Message 14
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Subject: | more instruments |
I too am interested in a flap switch which works just like we have on most
car windows=2C on the driver's side: push once and the window opens fully o
r closes from any position=2C i.e. full flap or full retract flaps. Especi
ally in an emergency or when workload is high it is irritating having my ri
ght hand tied up holding the current toggle switch for quite a long time=2C
when it should really be on the throttle.
Karl
> From: mcointe@free.fr
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: more instruments
> Date: Mon=2C 28 Oct 2013 15:08:22 +0100
>
>
> Hi There All
>
> As an happy guy I fly part time on a Dyn'aero MCR 4Seats where the flaps
are
> directed by a 4 position switch (0-10=B0-17=B0-35=B0) and part time on ou
r gentle
> Europa XS where the switch is full analog (wherever you want between 0 to
> 35=B0). I won't enter in a contest between both option but I'm curious to
see
> (pics and explanation) if any of the members of the community installed a
> servo allowing to have pre-set flaps position (0-10=B0-full).
> Have Good Flights=2C
>
> Max Cointe
> mcointe@free.fr
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
>
> F-PLDJ Dyn=92A=E9ro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | more instruments |
Max.......Further to what Bob has said I recall my last solo circuit before
my Skill test at Ormond Beach Aviation when I was allocated a Cesna Aerobat
and hadn't noticed the flaps were by a switch needing it centred to "off" by
hand, when on late final over the student accommodation I became aware I was
basically only descending and likely into the accommodation roof. By chance
I happened to see the 40deg flap by my left ear in my peripheral view.
Prompting me to slam the switch up then causing a flapless landing since I
still hadn't grasped there was no detent positions. ! I since prefer to use
my own selection by observation of the Europa supplied stick on indicators
on the flap visible over my left shoulder. Never have liked bloody Cesna's
ever since !
Regards to all.....
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Borger
Sent: 28 October 2013 14:33
Subject: Re: Europa-List: more instruments
Max,
I can see the distinct advantage of what you describe. Electric version of
the manual flap with stops at 10, 20, 30, etc. I used to fly an old
C-150 with manual flaps like that and it was really handy. Pull click 1 on
downwind, click 2 on base, click 3 on final. Nothing to watch or distract
from flying the aircraft. That could be a mod that would be worth the
effort to install.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Oct 28, 2013, at 9:08 AM, Max Cointe (Free) <mcointe@free.fr> wrote:
Hi There All
As an happy guy I fly part time on a Dyn'aero MCR 4Seats where the flaps are
directed by a 4 position switch (0-10-17-35) and part time on our gentle
Europa XS where the switch is full analog (wherever you want between 0 to
35). I won't enter in a contest between both option but I'm curious to see
(pics and explanation) if any of the members of the community installed a
servo allowing to have pre-set flaps position (0-10-full).
Have Good Flights,
Max Cointe
mcointe@free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
Message 16
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|
Subject: | Re: Some nice NZ scenery |
Rob,
Great video! Glad you knew where you were going....especially dropping into
the clouds while landing.
Mike Duane
Do Not Archive.
Message 17
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Subject: | Tyres for tri gear |
Hi
Does anyone know the best tyres to use on the tri gear. The tyres I put on last
time haven't lasted very well. I think they are Condors.
Thanks
Kevin Challis
G ODJG
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Tyres for tri gear |
Kevin. I've used everything from the "el cheapo" to the most expensive
Michelins. They all last about the same, as far as tread wear is
concerned. I have the 6 ply Air Tracs on, now and they are doing fine...
Jeff - Baby Blue
On 10/28/2013 11:39 AM, Kevin Challis wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Does anyone know the best tyres to use on the tri gear. The tyres I put on last
time haven't lasted very well. I think they are Condors.
>
> Thanks
>
> Kevin Challis
> G ODJG
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Tyres for tri gear |
Jeff
Thank you for the information.
Kevin
> On 28 Oct 2013, at 18:19, Jeff B <topglock@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> Kevin. I've used everything from the "el cheapo" to the most expensive Michelins.
They all last about the same, as far as tread wear is concerned. I have
the 6 ply Air Tracs on, now and they are doing fine...
>
> Jeff - Baby Blue
>
>> On 10/28/2013 11:39 AM, Kevin Challis wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Does anyone know the best tyres to use on the tri gear. The tyres I put on last
time haven't lasted very well. I think they are Condors.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Kevin Challis
>> G ODJG
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | =?windows-1252?Q?AN3_Nut_Torque_Values=85=85=2Eor_any_Torque_Val?= |
=?windows-1252?Q?ues_depending_on_type_of_Nuts?
Gidday,
Yesterday I was tightening by hand one of the two AN3 bolts that clamp
the flap cross tube to the articulating/hinge arms that are attached in
the floor. So, in case there is the slightest movement and this would
exacerbate in my flaps I decided to do them up "tight". Guess what, I
snapped one, yep snapped. It broke at the top of the shank where the
thread started, and did NOT strip the thread as many might have
presumed. This got me thinking that normally most bolts are designed to
effect a shear load, and not normally a clamping load. Anyway, I know
there is counter arguments to all of this, but what matters is the
applicable torque loads we use if we torque them using a wrench, and I
just stumbled upon a reference I think is important. I found this on an
VansForce website, and why it matters is the torque values are NOT for
locknuts, which have an inherent friction drag torque value of 14
in-lbs. So, referring to the attached table an AN3 needs 20-25 in-lbw,
but in actuality would be more like 34-39 in-lbs.
I think this could be easily overlooked, and if the friction drag torque
of locknuts is not taken into account, people are under torquing their
bolts.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
Message 21
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Subject: | =?utf-8?B?UmU6IEV1cm9wYS1MaXN0OiBBTjMgTnV0IFRvcnF1ZSBWYWx1ZXPigKbigKYu?= |
=?utf-8?B?b3IgYW55IFRvcnF1ZSBWYWx1ZXMgZGVwZW5kaW5nIG9uIHR5cGUgb2YgTnV0?=
=?utf-8?B?cw==?
Tony=0Ado you still have the bolt? If so put it in a vice and bend it, it s
hould bend significantly without=0Asnapping. Hi tensile steel bolts normall
y won't bend, that's why we don't use them in aircraft.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw26
8@gmail.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@matronics.com>
=0ASent: Monday, 28 October 2013, 21:58=0ASubject: Europa-List: AN3 Nut Tor
que Values.or any Torque Values depending on type of Nuts
=0A =0A=0A=0AGidday,=0AYesterday I was tightening by hand one of the two AN
3 bolts that clamp the flap cross tube to the articulating/hinge arms that
are attached in the floor. So, in case there is the slightest movement and
this would exacerbate in my flaps I decided to do them up "tight". Guess wh
at, I snapped one, yep snapped. It broke at the top of the shank where the
thread started, and did NOT strip the thread as many might have presumed. T
his got me thinking that normally most bolts are designed to effect a shear
load, and not normally a clamping load. Anyway, I know there is counter ar
guments to all of this, but what matters is the applicable torque loads we
use if we torque them using a wrench, and I just stumbled upon a reference
I think is important. I found this on an VansForce website, and why it matt
ers is the torque values are NOT for locknuts, which have an inherent frict
ion drag torque value of 14 in-lbs. So, referring to the attached table an
AN3 needs 20-25
in-lbw, but in actuality would be more like 34-39 in-lbs.=C2-=0AI think
this could be easily overlooked, and if the friction drag torque of locknut
s is not taken into account, people are under torquing their bolts.=C2-
=0ARegards=0ATony Renshaw=0ASydney Aussie.=C2-
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Some nice NZ scenery |
Hi Mike,
I should clarify that I wasn't flying this plane. It's a commercial Air NZ
flight into Queenstown ZQN I think the aircraft is a 737 300 but Tim may
know better me if he's around
Rob
On Tuesday, October 29, 2013, wrote:
> Rob,
>
> Great video! Glad you knew where you were going....especially dropping
> into the clouds while landing.
> Mike Duane
>
> Do Not Archive.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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