Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:00 PM - Mod 11354 Control lock (spcialeffects)
2. 01:21 PM - Re: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator (Greg Fuchs)
3. 01:56 PM - Re: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
4. 02:13 PM - Re: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator (Greg Fuchs)
5. 02:23 PM - Re: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator (Greg Fuchs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Mod 11354 Control lock |
Hi all. Has anyone carried out this mod? If so could you please take a snap shot
of it and add some dimension to it for me so i can forward it to my fabricator
please. Many thanks Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417695#417695
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator |
Hi Paul,
THANKS! Wow, that's quite a detailed load analysis. I can see why you needed
it. It seems that the available Mega-micro (heehee) Watts available from the
Rotax generator are being well used in most modes of flight. I especially
like the slight rest it gets during cruise, ensuring it can top off the
batteries....and possibly lowering the chance of a failure during this phase
of flight.
Looking at the spreadsheet, I can't help but wonder if there is a need (or
at least used to be..before the changes) for a slightly bigger battery
capacity to help handle the load when the plane isn't at high rpm? Of
course, experience is what matters. If you can recall, what battery size is
working for you?
One side note: Over a decade ago, in order to save a few $$, I replaced the
normal extra-capacity battery on my car (they are quite a bit larger than
the normal size), with one that was smaller...and it kept leaving me
stranded during the winter when running the accessories like fan, electric
window heaters, etc. Granted, I was running the car at idle for periods of
about a half hour, to try to keep warm. I replaced it back to the beefier
battery rather quickly, and all starting problems went away. Of course,
there is no penalty of bigger batteries in a ground-bound vehicle and only a
last resort in an airplane. :)
Hmm.. some HAVE paid more attention to the weight during the build, and
still end up bloated.. 860 is not too bad, IMO.
I'll be trying to use lower power items, such as external LED lights and
EFIS. Since none of them pass Burt Rutans qualification of staying in the
air when tossed there, I will now be adding helium-balloon ballast to the
ship to compensate for it. :)
Thanks again for the detail,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul McAllister
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
Greg,
I echo David's thoughts on this. With the right design choices it is easy to
stay well within the electrical capacity of the standard Rotax. Modern
avionics, EFIS, LED position lights & strobes do not draw much current.
Attached is the load analysis I did for my aircraft in 2004. I have not
updated it since then but LED strobes, landing lights and low draw current
contactors make it possible to have an even lower electrical load during
cruise.
My 914 XS + Airmaster came in at 860 lb. Over the years I have taken weight
out by removing the vacuum instrument system and small tweaks in other
area's but I sure wish I had paid much more attention to this during the
build.
My favorite comment from Burt Rutan was, "If you are thinking of putting
something on your airplane, first toss it in the air. If it doesn't stay
there by itself then don't put it on."
Cheers, Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator |
The lightest Mono I know of was less than 750lbs. A showroom finish must we
igh 20 lbs=0Aat least and adds nothing to performance.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0A From: Greg Fuchs <gregoryf.flyboy@co
mcast.net>=0A=0AHmm.. some HAVE paid more attention to the weight during th
e build, and=0Astill end up bloated.. 860 is not too bad, IMO.=0A=0AI'll be
trying to use lower power items, such as external LED lights and=0AEFIS. S
ince none of them pass Burt Rutans qualification of staying in the=0Aair wh
en tossed there, I will now be adding helium-balloon ballast to the=0Aship
to compensate for it. :)=0A=0AThanks again for the detail,=0AGreg-
Message 4
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| Subject: | Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator |
Hi Bud,
Time will tell about that getting carried away part, hahaha.
I absolutely figured you had a mold for the cowl!
I looked in anticipation, but could not find the info on Jerry Hopes belt
drive alternator. Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but would certainly
like to find it.
A Garmin SL30 (maybe someday a 430 or 530) and an EFIS to show its output
has long been on my wish list, along with a HID landing light (lower power
draw, higher intensity light output).
I looked at a video on You|ube that was demo-ing that flashlight and must
say WOW. It has an amazing output. Imagine that one would work just great as
a Europa landing light. Might have to give the HID lights another thought.
:)
Thanks for the informative Ramblings,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
Greg,
I hope you don't get too carried away. Every ounce you add, or increase to
the frontal area, the more performance you loose.
To see an example of one of my cowl mods, look at Jerry Hope's 914 with
belt drive alternator. (www.customflightcreations.com click on accessories
and tips.) I cut the front of the cowl off, and Jerry and I made a floppy
glass cover then began the task of filling, smoothing, making a mirror image
for the other side and continuously checking for clearance for the belt and
pulley. I made a mold of the front early on and it is rough. I should have
cleaned it up. The belt drive alternator really does deliver the amps.
Note in the photo, you can see the alternator is right up against the intake
opening. It also extends the cowl forward about 1/8-1/4 inch because of the
pulley.
I still believe my Europa simple VFR cruiser is the best idea.
All LEDs, (including the feeble Kuntzelman landing light at .6 amp), no
pitot heat, all EFIS and light draw radio/transponder, keeps my amps in
check. Even with all my toys running, I do not draw over 15 amps until I
key the mic button.
If I do go on to do a light IFR (health permitting) I'll add a Garming Nav
Com like the SL30, and purchase a simple pitot heat (like Angus
Aviation/Dynon). I'll add an Aux battery and an Alternator to the back of
the gearbox to power the pitot heat and a proper landing light for night.
(Aveo has an LED unit, which is expensive, but bright. I still would prefer
an HID light, however check out the new 13000 Lumen flashlights by
Trusfire.)
The aux battery and alternator will most likely be similar to the B&Cs small
unit which will keep the aux battery charged but only have enough battery
life for about 30 minutes at idle for the HID/or LED light and supply the
pitot heat for just the time necessary to penetrate a thin deck.
Just the ramblings of an experimenter.
Regards,
Bud
_____
From: gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
>Perhaps in the situation above, it would be prudent for a 914 builder (914
can draw 11 amps on its own with both pumps running) to consider a belt
driven ??
>alternator of 40 amps, and simply redo the cowl front and keep the Rotax as
a backup in case of belt failure.
Bud, or those that know,
At some point, or future avionics upgrade, my ship will likely need the
extra Watts.
Would you care to supply a 'teaser' on the making of the cowl mod? I am
still waiting for my FF package, so don't yet have a handle on how it
integrates with the prop flange, but does the front of the cowl terminate
just behind the prop flange, on the smaller-radius drive tube? Are the
belt-driven alternator components in front of the cowl then, requiring the
cowl front face to be opened up and added to? Is this considered an
extensive change?
Regards,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Ducati rectifier/regulators
.....
If you are an amp zealot, but still want an aux fuel pump, pitot heat, 100
watt landing light, strobes, heavy draw radio (Garmin 430 type), Aux Radio,
Mode S transponder continuously working, autopilot, stereo high quality
music system, external power plugs for our phones, I-pads and inflight video
system, the Rotax charging system is not going to hack it.
Perhaps in the situation above, it would be prudent for a 914 builder (914
can draw 11 amps on its own with both pumps running) to consider a belt
driven alternator of 40 amps, and simply redo the cowl front and keep the
Rotax as a backup in case of belt failure.
If you build a 912S airplane with all LED lighting, Garmin 255 or Becker
Com, Simple digital Transponder, Aux Boost, and maybe an autopilot for
cruise only and a paper map, then the Rotax / Ducati should be fine. The
GR6 or SH may be better and longer lasting to boot. In my opinion the Rotax
system can't put out much more than 15 amps or so and as the current
increases, the voltage output starts to diminish (at least it does in my
poor old airplane) .
Just my thoughts.
Bud
> Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:40:25 +0100
> From: jan_de_jong@casema.nl
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Ducati rectifier/regulators
>
>
> Re two-phase bridge rectifier/regulator.
> The 2 thyristors in the rectifier bridge do not short the AC input or
> "dump" anything.
> On the contrary, they disconnect the DC output from the AC input when
> the output voltage threatens to exceed the set voltage.
> All output current passes through one branch of one diode and one
> thyristor in series half the time and through the other identical branch
> also half the time.
> Heat development is proportional to the output current and the voltage
> drop across a branch.
> Voltage drops increase somewhat with current, so heat development
> increases more than linearly with output current.
> In the Ducati device the diode is reportedly a MR2510 pill (typically
> 0.75V at 10A, 0.8V at 20A), the thyristor can be a 2N6504 (typically
> 1.1V at 10A, 1.3V at 20A).
> So at 10A the two branches of the bridge are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (7.5 + 11) = 9.25W (total 18.5W) of heat.
> And at 20A the two branches of the bridge are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (16 + 26) = 21W (total 42W) of heat.
>
> (
> a failure mode for the Ducati device is reportedly the loss of
> continuity of a diode pill attachment through thermal cycling; fitting
> external parallel diodes has been proposed as a solution; replacing the
> whole device seems more sensible
> )
>
> Cheers,
> Jan de Jong
>
&g======================
&g======
>
>
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator |
Yes, I think I read somewhere (maybe here), that one light mist coat and one
full coat of paint should do it, and save some weight.
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
The lightest Mono I know of was less than 750lbs. A showroom finish must
weigh 20 lbs
at least and adds nothing to performance.
Graham
_____
From: Greg Fuchs <gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net>
Hmm.. some HAVE paid more attention to the weight during the build, and
still end up bloated.. 860 is not too bad, IMO.
I'll be trying to use lower power items, such as external LED lights and
EFIS. Since none of them pass Burt Rutans qualification of staying in the
air when tossed there, I will now be adding helium-balloon ballast to the
ship to compensate for it. :)
Thanks again for the detail,
Greg
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