Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - Re: Mono weight (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 10:32 AM - Re: Mono weight (David Joyce)
3. 01:27 PM - Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank (William Bliss)
4. 01:47 PM - Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank (Tony Renshaw)
5. 02:36 PM - Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank (Bob Harrison)
6. 02:44 PM - where to put OAT sensor? (Rowland Carson)
7. 02:54 PM - static line drain essential? (Rowland Carson)
8. 05:59 PM - Re: where to put OAT sensor? (Kevin Klinefelter)
9. 06:56 PM - Re: where to put OAT sensor? (Robert Borger)
10. 11:19 PM - Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank (Kingsley Hurst)
Message 1
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> After an extended build time .... . . . . .I find my overall empty
weight at what for me is the astounding figure of 814.8 pounds
Good onyer Mate!! What's that in 'real' weight? . . . . 370 kg . . .
. still good !
Kingsley
do not archive
Message 2
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Fred, Sounds highly encouraging, but for what it is worth
the weights required by LAA and those recorded by the
Europa Club are Ready for service weights, ie including
all oil, coolant, unuseable fuel, instruments and
compulsory things like fire extinguishers.
Regards, David Joyce, G- XSDJ
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 17:28:46 -0800
Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
><fklein@orcasonline.com>
>
> Guys...I am too thrilled to keep quiet...
>
> After an extended build time w/ numerous non-standard
>aspects to Mono #A194...and ambiguous results at attempts
>to weigh her w/ multiple bathroom scales (hey...I
>know...a big no no, but I had to try)...I find my overall
>empty weight at what for me is the astounding figure of
>814.8 pounds using a proper aircraft scale...that would
>be 737# on the main wheel, and 77.8# on the tail w/ fore
>and aft axis dead level, wing tips balanced /
>feather-light, and w/ battery positioned abreast of the
>mass balance arm tower back in the tailcone.
>
> A few caveats: this is a weight w/o fluids in the
>engine, unusable fuel, an ELT, finish paint, tools,
>spares, etc. and a second PC680 battery which I want to
>carry w/ my totally electrically dependent engine.
>
> Notwithstanding my heavy engine (a 140 hp MPEFI variant
>of the Sube EA81), I've tried to build light, and
>presently have a GA prop due concerns about overall
>weight and C of G.
>
> I wanted a preliminary W & B in order to locate and run
>power to my battery(ies)...my high tolerance for
>ambiguity had simply reached its limit...
>
> onward and upward,
>
>Fred
>
>Un/Subscription,
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank |
Hello everyone
I have been trying to bond the piece of Tufnall to the fuselage aerolon
quick connect bellcrank. Problem is that the redux simply flows out the
bottom of the joint. It is too runny! The build manual describes
assembling the wings and letting the bond set in order to achieve a
perfect fit. I am sure this problem must have been surmounted by all the
builders and it has probably been discussed before. A link to the answer
would be appreciated.
Thanks William Bliss G-WUFF
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank |
Hi William,
I am not sure from your explanation, and I dont have the book with me, but I roughed
up the gluing inner face of my aileron bell crank quick connect, using my
Dremel and a Permagrit drum abrader. It tears the metal in a small way, and
leaves quite a distressed surface for bonding. Prime the surface with pure redux
on a cotton bud, and then put flox in with the redux for the actual adhesive.
If your doing the bonding as per the book you will neef other peoples advice
as to how to stop sticking everything together, as I did mine a different way.
Good luck.
> On 23 Feb 2014, at 8:26, William Bliss <william@wbliss.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone
> I have been trying to bond the piece of Tufnall to the fuselage aerolon quick
connect bellcrank. Problem is that the redux simply flows out the bottom of the
joint. It is too runny! The build manual describes assembling the wings and
letting the bond set in order to achieve a perfect fit. I am sure this problem
must have been surmounted by all the builders and it has probably been discussed
before. A link to the answer would be appreciated.
> Thanks William Bliss G-WUFF
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank |
Hi! William ,
Ok just use a smear of the redux mixed in liquid form to impregnate the
scuffed surfaces then mix up quite a stiff mix with flox which is for the
purpose of stiffening so that the resulting blob won't actually drip off
your mixing stick and apply the blob to the relevant surfaces. I would then
cover one of the assemblies with one layer of cling film and be careful when
assembling the wing to mate up the Tufnell surfaces so there is no chance of
any such squeezed out excess bonding the two bellcranks together.
Somewhere in the manual there is an instruction as to the procedure of
adding the flox but from my experiences so long as all the fibres of the
flox are coated it is pretty broard spectrum fool proof. Incidentally if you
have any of the very thinnest of the tuffnell left over I could do with a
couple of bits.!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Bliss
Sent: 22 February 2014 21:27
Subject: Europa-List: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank
Hello everyone
I have been trying to bond the piece of Tufnall to the fuselage aerolon
quick connect bellcrank. Problem is that the redux simply flows out the
bottom of the joint. It is too runny! The build manual describes assembling
the wings and letting the bond set in order to achieve a perfect fit. I am
sure this problem must have been surmounted by all the builders and it has
probably been discussed before. A link to the answer would be appreciated.
Thanks William Bliss G-WUFF
Message 6
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Subject: | where to put OAT sensor? |
I'm wondering where to put my outside air temperature (OAT) sensor. Obviously it
doesn't want to be in direct sunlight (although PA28s seem to think that's OK),
and not anywhere on the belly downstream of the exhaust. Does anyone have
a good suggestion for it? It's tiny, less than thumbnail size, so doesn't need
much room, and the wires back to the panel can be as long as needed.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
Message 7
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Subject: | static line drain essential? |
I note in the installation instructions for my Trig transponder it says:
"In all cases, the static line should include drainage provisions and should be
routed in accordance with CS 23.1325 or other applicable airworthiness provisions
for the aircraft."
CS23 1325 says (inter alia):
"(1) The design and installation of a static pressure system must be such that
(i) Positive drainage of moisture is provided;"
Obviously this is for factory-built CoA aircraft. But shouldn't we be following
good practice? And does anyone know what the LAA position on static drains might
be?
Any advice or experience appreciated.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: where to put OAT sensor? |
I put mine in the stbd wing root area. Below the fuel elbow. So it's never exposed
to the sun, outside the cockpit, opposite the exhaust. Oh, and not exactly
sticking out in the breeze creating drag. The wires run under the passenger window
to the panel.
Seems to work well...
Kevin
> On Feb 22, 2014, at 2:44 PM, Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm wondering where to put my outside air temperature (OAT) sensor. Obviously
it doesn't want to be in direct sunlight (although PA28s seem to think that's
OK), and not anywhere on the belly downstream of the exhaust. Does anyone have
a good suggestion for it? It's tiny, less than thumbnail size, so doesn't need
much room, and the wires back to the panel can be as long as needed.
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: where to put OAT sensor? |
Rowland,
I used a small plastic P clip to connect it to the underside of the CD7 (CBM-XS
914 Installation Manual, page 4-6) with the wiring passing through the same grommet
as the Wastegate Cable.
I will be working on the Europa tomorrow. With any luck Ill remember to take a
picture for you.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On Feb 22, 2014, at 4:44 PM, Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm wondering where to put my outside air temperature (OAT) sensor. Obviously it
doesn't want to be in direct sunlight (although PA28s seem to think that's OK),
and not anywhere on the belly downstream of the exhaust. Does anyone have
a good suggestion for it? It's tiny, less than thumbnail size, so doesn't need
much room, and the wires back to the panel can be as long as needed.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank |
< I have been trying to bond the piece of Tufnall to the fuselage aerolon quick
connect bellcrank.
William,
There is no good reason to bond the tufnol spacers by rigging the wings as described
in the manual.
The process can be much more easily achieved by placing a sufficiently long 1/4"
bolt (AN4 if you have one) vertically in a vice captured by its hex end and
placing the quick connects on the bolt in their correct orientation.
You can then set up the Tufnol spacers with the Redux/flox mix and see what you
are doing.
A VERY important thing for the quick connects is that the bolt through the spar
and the bolt in the quick connect bracket MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED AND CONCENTRIC
else there will be tight and loose spots in the aileron movement.
Cheers
Kingsley in Oz.
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