Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 AM - where to put OAT sensor? (Guerner Remi)
2. 12:12 AM - Re: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot (nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk)
3. 01:16 AM - Re: where to put OAT sensor? (David Joyce)
4. 03:44 AM - Re: where to put OAT sensor? (nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk)
5. 06:52 AM - Buy Samsung Note 3+Gear$600/Samsung Galaxy S4 IV$420 (wabbss)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot (rparigoris)
7. 08:36 AM - Texel (David Joyce)
8. 08:48 AM - Re: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot (Rob Housman)
9. 08:55 AM - Re: Texel (John Heykoop)
10. 02:09 PM - Re: Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank (Greg Fuchs)
Message 1
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Subject: | where to put OAT sensor? |
Rowland
I put it inside the intake of the Rotax cylinder cooling baffle. It works fine
in flight but not on the ground where it is greatly influenced by the engine temperature.
BTW this shows that the Rotax cooling baffle is not effective at all for cylinder
cooling while on the ground.
Regards
Remi
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Subject: | Re: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot |
Hello Rob, I recently had to strip out and refit the CS10 and had to
face the same problem so know exactly what you are up against. There is
a solution. Ideally you need a trusty assistant - though I did succeed
by myself (it took a whole afternoon though :-( )
I used a long socket, and filled it with spare nuts such that it
prevented the nut you are attempting to tighten - sliding down into the
barrel of the socket. I magnetised the socket by stroking it a few times
with a strong magnet - that ensured that the nut would not drop out. Now
the nut can be held precisely.
The next bit seems non-intuitive, but tighten the bolt (not the nut)
from the other side of the aircraft using your assistant and a long
socket drive extension.
All you need to focus on is keeping the nut in place (a long socket is
easier to hold) until the thread catches. The only other thing to
consider is keeping the washers in place until the bolt is inserted -
this was done by sticking the washers using a blob of grease.
It is possible to achieve without resorting to an angle grinder!
Nigel
On 23/02/2014 23:52, Rob Housman wrote:
>
> Assuming that I am not the only one foolish enough to attempt a
> retro-fit of Mod 76 (Dynon) to a completed airframe I would appreciate
> any help from others who have done so.
>
> I am currently at an impasse. Removal of CS10 and replacing it with
> CS10/2 was tedious but relatively straightforward to complete,
> although the Europa Factory instructions manage to overlook a few
> essential points. I am stymied by my inability to get the nut on the
> bolt that attaches the rod end to the horn on CS10/2. With
> perseverance I managed to get the bolt through the horn on CS10/2 and
> the rod end, but my not very large hands cannot do both: hold the
> MS31042-3 nut and rotate it after I get it near the threaded end of
> the AN3-7A bolt. So far I have failed even to get the nut aligned so
> the bolt could be turned into the nut. At this point I am considering
> cutting another access hole in the bottom of the fuselage but only as
> a last resort would I start cutting.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
>
> Irvine, California
>
> Europa XS
>
> Rotax 914
>
> S/N A070
>
> Airframe complete
>
> Avionics in progress
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: where to put OAT sensor? |
Nigel, Yes I have a 914' but I am talking about the space
fed directly from a NACA inlet which gathers the air
before it enters the turbo. Like all the cowling inlets it
will be pressurised by the slipstream/propwash No doubt
post turbo the temperature will be higher still - which is
why 914s don't need carb icing protection.
Regards, David
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:29:44 +0000
"nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk"
<nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk> wrote:
>"nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk"
><nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
>
> If I remember correctly, isn't 'DJ powered by a 914? If
>so, the plenum will be fed with heat sinked (sunk?) air
>fresh from a blisteringly hot turbo. Once Mr. Boyle has
>added his two cents, I'm surprised that the difference
>between plenum and OAT is only 8c!
>
> Nigel
>
> On 23/02/2014 12:04, David Joyce wrote:
>><davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>
>>
>> Alan & rowland, problem with anywhere subject to ram air
>>pressurization is that it will give an appreciably higher
>>temp than true OAT.(Boyle & his law). I have an airbox
>>temp sensor in my air plenum and also an OAT sensor in
>>the wing root just in front of the flap control slot and
>>the two give significantly different temps once the plane
>>is flying, if I remember rightly by something like 8C.
>>Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>
>
>
>Un/Subscription,
>Forums!
>Admin.
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: where to put OAT sensor? |
Ahh! wrong plenum. That makes more sense as I would expect induction air
downstream of the turbo to be in the high 70's C.
Thanks for the clarification.
Nigel
On 24/02/2014 09:16, David Joyce wrote:
> <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>
> Nigel, Yes I have a 914' but I am talking about the space fed
> directly from a NACA inlet which gathers the air before it enters the
> turbo. Like all the cowling inlets it will be pressurised by the
> slipstream/propwash No doubt post turbo the temperature will be higher
> still - which is why 914s don't need carb icing protection.
> Regards, David
>
> On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:29:44 +0000
> "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk> wrote:
>> <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
>>
>> If I remember correctly, isn't 'DJ powered by a 914? If so, the
>> plenum will be fed with heat sinked (sunk?) air fresh from a
>> blisteringly hot turbo. Once Mr. Boyle has added his two cents, I'm
>> surprised that the difference between plenum and OAT is only 8c!
>>
>> Nigel
>>
>> On 23/02/2014 12:04, David Joyce wrote:
>>> <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>>
>>>
>>> Alan & rowland, problem with anywhere subject to ram air
>>> pressurization is that it will give an appreciably higher temp than
>>> true OAT.(Boyle & his law). I have an airbox temp sensor in my air
>>> plenum and also an OAT sensor in the wing root just in front of the
>>> flap control slot and the two give significantly different temps
>>> once the plane is flying, if I remember rightly by something like
>>> 8C. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>>
>>
>>
>> Un/Subscription,
>> Forums!
>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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Read this topic online here:
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot |
Hi Rob
Hmm, it looks to me like if you put a some scotch-tape around the nut and jammed
in either a box wrench or socket it may work?
If you were to use 1/4" socket with lots of extensions and universal/s could you
get to the bolt?
If not how about using a short, medium or long box wrench? If not, then buy a cheap
box wrench, cut, heat up and bend if needed and weld on an extension, or
use a box wrench you have and bend up a metal bar and use hose clamps to hold
it?
Since you are in there, get some inspection lacquer and mark the jam nut for the
ball fitting.
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419236#419236
Message 7
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Does Tim or Hank or any of our Dutch friends have a date
for Texel 2014, please?
David Joyce
Message 8
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Subject: | Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot |
Nigel: What you describe is almost exactly how I connected the port and
starboard pitch push rods to CS10/2, the only difference being that I did
not need to magnetize the socket. Both of these connections are relatively
easy to reach but that @#$%^&* third horn on CS10/2 is (so far) not within
my reach with either fingers or tools.
Ron: My problem is access. My combination of universal joints, extensions
and sockets will not clear the obstructions which include the support
bracket holding CS10/2 and the aileron bell crank where it mounts to the end
of CS05 torque tube. In other words, I cannot manage to get the tools to
align coaxially with the bolt even if I could get the nut onto the bolt
manually, which I can't.
Next up: Unless someone presents a simpler solution, I'll remove CS10/2 and
attach only the rod end to it and then after CS10/2 is reinstalled, attempt
to thread the servo push rod onto the rod end already in place. Only if
this fails will I resort to cutting another access port in the bottom of the
fuselage.
Incidentally, prior to installing CS10/2 I used 5 minute epoxy to hold all
of those washers in place and used a greased pin slightly smaller than the
size of the bolt holes to maintain alignment during cure. With my many
attempts to assemble the rod end to CS10/2 these washers have remained in
place.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2014 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 76 - Altitude Hold Autopilot
Hello Rob, I recently had to strip out and refit the CS10 and had to face
the same problem so know exactly what you are up against. There is a
solution. Ideally you need a trusty assistant - though I did succeed by
myself (it took a whole afternoon though :-( )
I used a long socket, and filled it with spare nuts such that it prevented
the nut you are attempting to tighten - sliding down into the barrel of the
socket. I magnetised the socket by stroking it a few times with a strong
magnet - that ensured that the nut would not drop out. Now the nut can be
held precisely.
The next bit seems non-intuitive, but tighten the bolt (not the nut) from
the other side of the aircraft using your assistant and a long socket drive
extension.
All you need to focus on is keeping the nut in place (a long socket is
easier to hold) until the thread catches. The only other thing to consider
is keeping the washers in place until the bolt is inserted - this was done
by sticking the washers using a blob of grease.
It is possible to achieve without resorting to an angle grinder!
Nigel
On 23/02/2014 23:52, Rob Housman wrote:
Assuming that I am not the only one foolish enough to attempt a retro-fit of
Mod 76 (Dynon) to a completed airframe I would appreciate any help from
others who have done so.
I am currently at an impasse. Removal of CS10 and replacing it with CS10/2
was tedious but relatively straightforward to complete, although the Europa
Factory instructions manage to overlook a few essential points. I am stymied
by my inability to get the nut on the bolt that attaches the rod end to the
horn on CS10/2. With perseverance I managed to get the bolt through the
horn on CS10/2 and the rod end, but my not very large hands cannot do both:
hold the MS31042-3 nut and rotate it after I get it near the threaded end of
the AN3-7A bolt. So far I have failed even to get the nut aligned so the
bolt could be turned into the nut. At this point I am considering cutting
another access hole in the bottom of the fuselage but only as a last resort
would I start cutting.
Suggestions?
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
Message 9
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David
The Texel airfield website shows the date of the fly as 5-6-7 September.
Regards
John
Europa XL G-JHKP
> On 24 Feb 2014, at 16:35, "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Does Tim or Hank or any of our Dutch friends have a date for Texel 2014, please?
> David Joyce
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Tufnell bonding to quick connect bellcrank |
Hi William,
As others have mentioned, adding flox will keep the glue from running.
HINT: A no-sanding method to take up the space between the bellcranks:
I don't know if anyone has done this, but I found a pretty slick method to
take up the clearance when gluing the 'tuffy' spacer between the bellcranks.
Get three 1/16" (or so) strips of double sided foamy tape. The squishy
stuff, not the normal double sided tape. Arts and craft store ought to have
them. Place the strips full length on each of the long sides of the tufnol,
and one in the middle. Carefully place the glue between the strips of tape
(not too much), and tenderly press the tufnol spacer into the correct
position on the bellcrank. The tape will hold it firm in place so it won't
wander around. Assemble the bellcranks together as they would be in normal
operation, with all of them bolted onto their swivels. Be sure the aileron
weight is unloaded off of the bellcranks (I disconnected mine), so that the
mating surfaces are not torqued. You want the surfaces to stay parallel to
each other and symmetrical forces all the way along the foam. ..The squishy
foam tape acts as a spring to take up the exact gap needed for a zero
clearance fit. It also contains the glue between the foam channels so one
can avoid using plastic sheeting, which might mess up the gap. The glue will
squidge out from the top and bottom a bit though, but it can be carefully
wiped away with a q-tip or the like. The foam is sacrificial, and will
become a permanent fixture in the plane. Bobs your Uncle!
Cheers,
Greg
Hello everyone
I have been trying to bond the piece of Tufnall to the fuselage aerolon
quick connect bellcrank. Problem is that the redux simply flows out the
bottom of the joint. It is too runny! The build manual describes assembling
the wings and letting the bond set in order to achieve a perfect fit. I am
sure this problem must have been surmounted by all the builders and it has
probably been discussed before. A link to the answer would be appreciated.
Thanks William Bliss G-WUFF
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