Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:32 AM - Electrical Wiring (Tony Renshaw)
2. 02:49 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (richard)
3. 03:03 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Tony Renshaw)
4. 03:25 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
5. 03:37 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (david park)
6. 07:10 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Fred Klein)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Bob Harrison)
8. 09:55 AM - Re: Electrical Wiring (David Joyce)
9. 12:52 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Fred Klein)
10. 01:10 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Bob Harrison)
11. 01:29 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Fred Klein)
12. 01:41 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Donald Cameron)
13. 03:07 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Fred Klein)
14. 05:03 PM - Re: Electrical Wiring (Robert Borger)
Message 1
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Subject: | Electrical Wiring |
Gidday,
I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the small wires
in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia cabling of many devices.
Im sure there are some better than others, but I currently dont know any,
albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it down. So far, I have tried D sub terminals,
as they are easy to get and easy to solder. Should I stick with them??
regards
Tony Renshaw
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Yes Tony , I mounted a D socket on to the servo body so that I could remove
it for service in the future, its a bugger of a place to get at. The other
end tails go straight to the switch and indicator.
Best of luck
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Renshaw
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:32 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
Gidday,
I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the small
wires in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia cabling of many
devices. Im sure there are some better than others, but I currently dont
know any, albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it down. So far, I have tried
D sub terminals, as they are easy to get and easy to solder. Should I stick
with them??
regards
Tony Renshaw
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Hi Richard,
Other than the multi core wire of the servos, is there suggestions for connecting
the very thin wires together, other than D sub connectors.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 21 May 2014, at 7:48 pm, richard <rcollings@talktalk.net> wrote:
>
> Yes Tony , I mounted a D socket on to the servo body so that I could remove it
for service in the future, its a bugger of a place to get at. The other end
tails go straight to the switch and indicator.
> Best of luck
> Richard
> -----Original Message----- From: Tony Renshaw
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:32 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
>
>
> Gidday,
> I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the small wires
in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia cabling of many devices.
Im sure there are some better than others, but I currently dont know any,
albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it down. So far, I have tried D sub terminals,
as they are easy to get and easy to solder. Should I stick with them??
> regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Hi Tony
I used shielded wire and stagger soldered the connections and left a
service loop that allows easily access and replacement if ever needed
through an inspection hole and if it fails on a trip far from home, I
marked the wires so I can jog to neutral trim with a 9 volt battery:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=30484
I used nutplates and Allen screws that will allow removal of the servo
with a ball end Allen.
If you absolutely want to use a connector, Bob from Aeroelectric has
directions how to use a D-Sub connector with no housing, strain relieve
the wires with some clear goop, something like Shoe Goo or a name with
6000 in it, don't use stink silicone it can corrode things, no stink
is probably OK although Shoe Goo is pretty good stuff, then use a piece
of heat shrink to hold the two halves of the connector together.
Ron Parigoris
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Here is a pic of the connector mounted fwd of the trim motor.
Regards
David Park
dpark748@hotmail.co.uk
On 21 May 2014, at 11:03, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
>
> Hi Richard,
> Other than the multi core wire of the servos, is there suggestions for
connecting the very thin wires together, other than D sub connectors.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
> On 21 May 2014, at 7:48 pm, richard <rcollings@talktalk.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Yes Tony , I mounted a D socket on to the servo body so that I could
remove it for service in the future, its a bugger of a place to get at.
The other end tails go straight to the switch and indicator.
>> Best of luck
>> Richard
>> -----Original Message----- From: Tony Renshaw
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:32 AM
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
>>
<tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
>>
>> Gidday,
>> I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the
small wires in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia
cabling of many devices. I=92m sure there are some better than others,
but I currently don=92t know any, albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it
down. So far, I have tried D sub terminals, as they are easy to get and
easy to solder. Should I stick with them??
>> regards
>> Tony Renshaw
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
On May 21, 2014, at 2:32 AM, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the
small wires in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia
cabling of many devices. I=92m sure there are some better than others,
but I currently don=92t know any, albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it
down. So far, I have tried D sub terminals, as they are easy to get and
easy to solder. Should I stick with them??
Tony=85At that stage of the build, I was not comfortable w/ using D sub
terminals and questioned my ability to disconnect them w/ one hand=85I
used this AMP connector w/ the larger, crimped pins=85I also floxed the
nuts on the back face of the bulkhead which hold the servo in position,
though I=92d use nut plates were I to do it again=85Fred
Message 7
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Subject: | Electrical Wiring |
Attention Fred Klein .
Whilst I am not wishing to "enter the fray" about the issue of connectors it
occurs to me having looked at your photo of your servo and the plastic
clevises to ask if you have shortened them before connecting them with the
piece of threaded rod? You are headed for some hassle if you haven't,
since you won't get enough trim through the operating range of the
Stabilators without the bottom clevis fouling up on the operating lever at
the end of the travel range.. ( I think that was the best description of the
problem but check it out Fred before you close it up with the top on!)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 21 May 2014 15:10
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
On May 21, 2014, at 2:32 AM, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
I am interested in what is the correct or preferred connector for the small
wires in the RayAllen Servo wire bundles etc., the small dia cabling of many
devices. I'm sure there are some better than others, but I currently don't
know any, albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it down. So far, I have tried
D sub terminals, as they are easy to get and easy to solder. Should I stick
with them??
Tony.At that stage of the build, I was not comfortable w/ using D sub
terminals and questioned my ability to disconnect them w/ one hand.I used
this AMP connector w/ the larger, crimped pins.I also floxed the nuts on the
back face of the bulkhead which hold the servo in position, though I'd use
nut plates were I to do it again.Fred
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
I have just tried to replace my servo before discovering
that the fault lay in one of the connectors in an awkward
position behind the panel (actually a snapped wire going
into a crimped pin). In speaking to the guy at Ray Allen,
he was v. Surprised to hear that the servo had packed up,
and implied that they just don't do that even after as
many hours service as mine - and he proved correct when I
released the wiring and retested it. My advice would be to
solder the wires at the servo end to the same coloured
wires in the multicore cable also supplied by Ray Allen,
supporting individual joins and the whole bundle with
heatshrink and also supporting the cable near to the
servo, etc. I feel this is less likely to cause problems
than a connector, and in the very unlikely event that you
do need to replace the servo, replacing soldered joints is
no great issue. Incidentally I have a brand new servo
still in its original sealed pack should anyone need one!
Regards, David Joyce, G- XSDJ
On Wed, 21 May 2014 07:09:54 -0700
Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
>
> On May 21, 2014, at 2:32 AM, Tony Renshaw
><tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I am interested in what is the correct or preferred
>>connector for the small wires in the RayAllen Servo wire
>>bundles etc., the small dia cabling of many devices. Im
>>sure there are some better than others, but I currently
>>dont know any, albeit a ACS catalogue could narrow it
>>down. So far, I have tried D sub terminals, as they are
>>easy to get and easy to solder. Should I stick with
>>them??
>
> TonyAt that stage of the build, I was not comfortable
>w/ using D sub terminals and questioned my ability to
>disconnect them w/ one handI used this AMP connector w/
>the larger, crimped pinsI also floxed the nuts on the
>back face of the bulkhead which hold the servo in
>position, though Id use nut plates were I to do it
>againFred
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
On May 21, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
> it occurs to me having looked at your photo of your servo and the
plastic clevises to ask if you have shortened them before connecting
them with the piece of threaded rod? You are headed for some hassle if
you haven=92t, since you won=92t get enough trim through the operating
range of the Stabilators without the bottom clevis fouling up on the
operating lever at the end of the travel range.. ( I think that was the
best description of the problem but check it out Fred before you close
it up with the top on!)
Bob,
Thank you for taking a close look at my build photo=85as I read your
post, you=92re asking if I have shortened the plastic clevises.
=46rom the XS build manual, I read:
> Cut off a 32 mm (11/4=93) piece of the threaded rod and screw on the
two plastic fork-ends until they are butted together
I read nothing about shortening the plastic clevises; rather, it appears
to me that the intent of the instructions is to ensure that the
shortened length of threaded rod allows for the plastic fork-ends to
abut one another.
My top has been bonded on for several years, so you raise a possible
issue of some significance.
Have I missed a bit of Europa-lore which never made it into print in the
manual?=85or what?
All comments appreciated,
Fred
Message 10
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Subject: | Electrical Wiring |
Hi! Fred,
Better check with another "oracle" then but I remember first sizing the
clevises and then making the threaded rod to fit. What you need to do is
operate the trim motor to it's full travel position both ways to ensure that
the lever they are driving doesn't foul up on the root of the clevis before
the motor stops.
Sorry if I may have caused some confusion but I recall needing to size the
clevises first and yours are clearly to be seen untouched? Of Course all
these years on things may have changed. But it is interesting no one else
has commented?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: 21 May 2014 20:51
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
On May 21, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
it occurs to me having looked at your photo of your servo and the plastic
clevises to ask if you have shortened them before connecting them with the
piece of threaded rod? You are headed for some hassle if you haven't,
since you won't get enough trim through the operating range of the
Stabilators without the bottom clevis fouling up on the operating lever at
the end of the travel range.. ( I think that was the best description of the
problem but check it out Fred before you close it up with the top on!)
Bob,
Thank you for taking a close look at my build photo.as I read your post,
you're asking if I have shortened the plastic clevises.
>From the XS build manual, I read:
Cut off a 32 mm (11/4") piece of the threaded rod and screw on the two
plastic fork-ends until they are butted together
I read nothing about shortening the plastic clevises; rather, it appears to
me that the intent of the instructions is to ensure that the shortened
length of threaded rod allows for the plastic fork-ends to abut one another.
My top has been bonded on for several years, so you raise a possible issue
of some significance.
Have I missed a bit of Europa-lore which never made it into print in the
manual?.or what?
All comments appreciated,
Fred
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Bob=85I do recall using a 9v. battery to check for full travel=85I=92ll
be interested to hear whether other listers found it necessary...as you
apparently did=85to trim the plastic fork-ends in order to avoid a =93foul
up on the root of the clevis before the motor stops=94=85Fred
On May 21, 2014, at 1:09 PM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
> Hi! Fred,
> Better check with another =93oracle=94 then but I remember first
sizing the clevises and then making the threaded rod to fit. What you
need to do is operate the trim motor to it=92s full travel position both
ways to ensure that the lever they are driving doesn=92t foul up on the
root of the clevis before the motor stops.
> Sorry if I may have caused some confusion but I recall needing to size
the clevises first and yours are clearly to be seen untouched? Of Course
all these years on things may have changed. But it is interesting no one
else has commented?
> Regards
> Bob H G-PTAG
>
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
> Sent: 21 May 2014 20:51
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
>
>
> On May 21, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net>
wrote:
>
>
> it occurs to me having looked at your photo of your servo and the
plastic clevises to ask if you have shortened them before connecting
them with the piece of threaded rod? You are headed for some hassle if
you haven=92t, since you won=92t get enough trim through the operating
range of the Stabilators without the bottom clevis fouling up on the
operating lever at the end of the travel range.. ( I think that was the
best description of the problem but check it out Fred before you close
it up with the top on!)
>
> Bob,
>
> Thank you for taking a close look at my build photo=85as I read your
post, you=92re asking if I have shortened the plastic clevises.
>
> =46rom the XS build manual, I read:
>
> Cut off a 32 mm (11/4=93) piece of the threaded rod and screw on the
two plastic fork-ends until they are butted together
>
> I read nothing about shortening the plastic clevises; rather, it
appears to me that the intent of the instructions is to ensure that the
shortened length of threaded rod allows for the plastic fork-ends to
abut one another.
>
> My top has been bonded on for several years, so you raise a possible
issue of some significance.
>
> Have I missed a bit of Europa-lore which never made it into print in
the manual?=85or what?
>
> All comments appreciated,
>
> Fred
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Hi Fred
I think Bob might be correct. =46rom memory when i installed mine i had to s
horten the fork ends.
The reason being when connected to the bellcrank and you operate the servo i
t can bind in one direction.
You will know if its binding as it labours near the end of the travel.
This check is part of the final checklist, to ensure the trim servo moves th
rough its complete range with no binding at all.
Hope this helps
Kind regards
Donald
G-PUPY (nearly flying awaiting paperwork from LAA to test fly)
Sent from my iPhone
On 21 May 2014, at 21:28, Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
> BobI do recall using a 9v. battery to check for full travel
I=99ll be interested to hear whether other listers found it necessa
ry...as you apparently didto trim the plastic fork-ends in order to
avoid a =9Cfoul up on the root of the clevis before the motor stops
=9DFred
>
> On May 21, 2014, at 1:09 PM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi! Fred,
>> Better check with another =9Coracle=9D then but I remember fi
rst sizing the clevises and then making the threaded rod to fit. What you ne
ed to do is operate the trim motor to it=99s full travel position both
ways to ensure that the lever they are driving doesn=99t foul up on t
he root of the clevis before the motor stops.
>> Sorry if I may have caused some confusion but I recall needing to size th
e clevises first and yours are clearly to be seen untouched? Of Course all t
hese years on things may have changed. But it is interesting no one else has
commented?
>> Regards
>> Bob H G-PTAG
>>
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein
>> Sent: 21 May 2014 20:51
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Electrical Wiring
>>
>>
>> On May 21, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> it occurs to me having looked at your photo of your servo and the plasti
c clevises to ask if you have shortened them before connecting them with the
piece of threaded rod? You are headed for some hassle if you haven=99
t, since you won=99t get enough trim through the operating range of t
he Stabilators without the bottom clevis fouling up on the operating lever
at the end of the travel range.. ( I think that was the best description of
the problem but check it out Fred before you close it up with the top on!)
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Thank you for taking a close look at my build photoas I read you
r post, you=99re asking if I have shortened the plastic clevises.
>>
>> =46rom the XS build manual, I read:
>>
>> Cut off a 32 mm (11/4=9C) piece of the threaded rod and screw on th
e two plastic fork-ends until they are butted together
>>
>> I read nothing about shortening the plastic clevises; rather, it appears t
o me that the intent of the instructions is to ensure that the shortened len
gth of threaded rod allows for the plastic fork-ends to abut one another.
>>
>> My top has been bonded on for several years, so you raise a possible issu
e of some significance.
>>
>> Have I missed a bit of Europa-lore which never made it into print in the m
anual?or what?
>>
>> All comments appreciated,
>>
>> Fred
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> style="color: purple; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> purple; text-decoration: underline;">http://forums.matronics.com
>> style="color: purple; text-decoration: underline;">http://www.matronics
.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
On May 21, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Donald Cameron <fireflier@btinternet.com>
wrote:
> =46rom memory when i installed mine i had to shorten the fork ends.
Don=85not exactly what I wanted to hear, but I thank you nonetheless for
responding to my request=85after poking around a bit, I don=92t see any
insurmountable problems to trimming my plastic clevises at this late
stage of the game.
Though I=92m wondering=85when you =93shorten(ed) the fork ends=94, were
you trimming literally the ends of forks thru which the clevis pin
fits?=85or did you shorten what I=92ll call the base of the clevis,
i.e., the opposite end where the two clevises abut one another after
being brought together by the threaded rod?
Good luck with your paperwork=85I=92m rather envious,
Fred
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wiring |
Hay Fred,
Don=92t fret. I did mine just like yours:
It works just fine. That=92s the way my instructions said to do it:
Trim servo
Step 5
Unpack the MAC electric trim servo and study all the instructions.
Cut off a 32 mm (11/4=93) piece of the threaded rod and screw on the two
plastic fork-ends until they are
butted together.
There must have been a change in the instructions somewhere along the
way.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On May 21, 2014, at 5:06 PM, Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com> wrote:
On May 21, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Donald Cameron <fireflier@btinternet.com>
wrote:
> =46rom memory when i installed mine i had to shorten the fork ends.
Don=85not exactly what I wanted to hear, but I thank you nonetheless for
responding to my request=85after poking around a bit, I don=92t see any
insurmountable problems to trimming my plastic clevises at this late
stage of the game.
Though I=92m wondering=85when you =93shorten(ed) the fork ends=94, were
you trimming literally the ends of forks thru which the clevis pin
fits?=85or did you shorten what I=92ll call the base of the clevis,
i.e., the opposite end where the two clevises abut one another after
being brought together by the threaded rod?
Good luck with your paperwork=85I=92m rather envious,
Fred
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