Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:35 AM - Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Kelvin Weston)
2. 04:13 AM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (jonathanmilbank)
3. 05:01 AM - Airmaster propeller spare blades (jonathanmilbank)
4. 04:27 PM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Bud Yerly)
5. 04:44 PM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Tony Renshaw)
6. 07:05 PM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Robert Borger)
7. 07:10 PM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Tony Renshaw)
8. 07:25 PM - Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay (Robert Borger)
9. 10:04 PM - Bob Berube Taildraggers (Tony Renshaw)
10. 11:55 PM - Re: Bob Berube Taildraggers (Fred Klein)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Hi All,
I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the baggage bay for
the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few questions for those that
have gone before me and successfully completed this mega task.
The manual states layup 2 plies of bid over the entire area of the baggage bay
up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state any preference.
What have others done?
b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds and overlap?
This would certainly make for a simpler and neater installation and would also
increase the number of layers in the corners. Surely a good thing?
I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier handling, before
attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height, onto the baggage
bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central tunnel, with the fibres
running spanwise.
c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage bay box?
Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or centre tunnel,
so just into the corners then?
Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build and what is
considered best practice for this layup.
The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back support belt and
pain relief cream are standing by!
Many thanks.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
About 18 months ago I engaged the services of a well-known expert to do the bulk
of this task for me, while I stood nearby and assisted. My aircraft had flown
for 15 years as a mono wheel and I wanted to go into retirement with something
less challenging for landings and take offs.
So the task was made more difficult by having to remove the fabric lining and associated
glue, followed by an enormous amount of rough sanding. Of course all
this had to be done with the fuselage top half in place and the wing root linking
metalwork already installed.
Anyway, to get to the point. I agree with what you have written, although I can't
recall exactly how far the uni extended. It seems to me that the numerous layers
of bid are simply to stiffen the existing structure and to provide multiple
load paths.
This reply is about as useful as udders on a bull, but I thought that you'd prefer
anything rather than a deafening silence. Good luck with the task and bear
in mind that it could be a lot worse.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423763#423763
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| Subject: | Airmaster propeller spare blades |
Further to my reply on the subject of baggage bay undercarriage lay-ups below,
I am reminded of the consequences of changing my undercarriage.
The first time that I landed and took off on grass, it became very obvious that
more horsepower would be needed to overcome the increased rolling resistance
compared with the mono wheel. So I've recently completed the installation of a
Rotax 912ULS and sold the 80hp engine.
I've retained the brilliant Airmaster AP308 VP constant speed hub, but it was necessary
to instal the wider Warp Drive blades in order to make efficient use
of the extra 20hp. So I'm left with three Warp Drive tapered blades complete with
root ferrules for the Airmaster hub. They're in very good nick (i.e. with
minimal "nicks") and should go to a good home somewhere in the UK.
Considering the hefty cost of purchase and import, they've got to be worth three
"tons". Tell you what guv'na, I'll also throw in for free the AC100 controller
and associated bits 'n bobs to match the Rotax 2.27:1 gearbox.
Can't say fairer than that!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423767#423767
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| Subject: | Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Kevin=2C
I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the corners as
in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my clients make tapes
as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes when it goes a bit wro
ng. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay after the bid. During the
layup of the dry glass procedure=2C the sticky initial layer and flox make
s placement of the white glass in the dark hole and cutting and darting eas
ier for me. Good sharp shears are essential. In the dry glass layup=2C yo
u will use more epoxy as gravity works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up t
he excess when done and let it cure. Use just a bit of denatured alcohol i
f the puddle is getting sticky. Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel p
ly by.
Go slow=2C take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My clients
have me do the cuts as I am faster=2C but don't trust the manual cutouts=2C
make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to leave work
ing room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find that the dry gla
ss layups can go fairly fast=2C but with the top on it is a real back break
er. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for good visibility (in
candescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida and the glue kicks very
fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential to check for voids and dry
bid. In places it is necessary to cut the handle of the brush down and ro
und it off so it doesn't snag anything to get in those corners well.
It is nice to have one person glassing one side=2C and I on the other=2C wi
th a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the project i
n 4 days but prefer 7.
My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial reinforcements on
day 1.
Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check everything abs
olutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux in the tubes.
Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over it a
nd allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib=2C peel p
ly and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over tacky gl
ass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good for that and
have a kit with the top off.
Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
Day 6 grind the tops and clean up=2C then apply uni. You can pop the gear
and finish up or...
Day 7 Pop out the gear=2C finish the outside layups=2C and reinstall the ge
ar=2C pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
Working alone=2C make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and ma
ke it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop=2C and if memory serves
=2C it took a full two weeks to pull the gear=2C clean up and put in the tr
i-gear=2C we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my standard and
closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
Regards=2C
Bud Yerly
CFC=2C Inc.
> Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> Date: Sun=2C 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi All=2C
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the baggage
bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few questions for
those that have gone before me and successfully completed this mega task.
>
> The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire area of
the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
>
> a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state any
preference. What have others done?
>
> b) If done in one piece of bid=2C is it okay to cut the corner folds and
overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater installation a
nd would also increase the number of layers in the corners. Surely a good
thing?
>
> I intend to layup the bid on plastic=2C my normal method for easier handl
ing=2C before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
>
> Next=2C the manual states - add 2 plies of uni=2C to the same height=2C o
nto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central tunnel
=2C with the fibres running spanwise.
>
> c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage bay bo
x?
> Also=2C there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor=2C sides or cen
tre tunnel=2C so just into the corners then?
>
> Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build and w
hat is considered best practice for this layup.
>
> The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back support bel
t and pain relief cream are standing by!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> --------
> Regards
>
> Kelv Weston
> Kit 497
> kelv@kdweston.biz
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Hi Bud,
Quick question, and no doubt an easy one, and I think I know the
answer=85.what is dart the corners?? If its cut and overlap, well you=92d
end up with double the thickness of plies in the corners to the number
of layups, which probably isn=92t a bad thing at all. Its a real shame
there isn=92t some sort of 3 D wand thingo that you can beam around
inside the leg wells, and it digitises the interior, and then place your
legs accordingly, and digitise them too, and then electronically make up
the ply so that it fits perfectly in every corner. Maybe I was born
before my time ;-)
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 26 May 2014, at 9:26 am, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the
corners as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my
clients make tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes
when it goes a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay
after the bid. During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky
initial layer and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark
hole and cutting and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are
essential. In the dry glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity
works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it
cure. Use just a bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting
sticky. Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
>
> Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My
clients have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual
cutouts, make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to
leave working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find
that the dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is
a real back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for
good visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida
and the glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential
to check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
>
> It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
>
> My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial
reinforcements on day 1.
> Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check
everything absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux
in the tubes.
> Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over
it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib,
peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
> Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over
tacky glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good
for that and have a kit with the top off.
> Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
> Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the
gear and finish up or...
> Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
>
> Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and
make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
>
> Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
>
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
> CFC, Inc.
>
>
>
> > Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> > From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> > Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >
<kelv@kdweston.biz>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
> >
> > The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire
area of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
> >
> > a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state
any preference. What have others done?
> >
> > b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds
and overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater
installation and would also increase the number of layers in the
corners. Surely a good thing?
> >
> > I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
> >
> > Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height,
onto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central
tunnel, with the fibres running spanwise.
> >
> > c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage
bay box?
> > Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
> >
> > Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build
and what is considered best practice for this layup.
> >
> > The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back
support belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
> >
> > Many thanks.
> >
> > --------
> > Regards
> >
> > Kelv Weston
> > Kit 497
> > kelv@kdweston.biz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Kevin,
Check my site at EuropaOwners.org. On the main page (
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=60232 ) there=92s an
album in the upper right corner titled Tri-Gear Conversion. It has a
fairly complete pictorial documentation of the work at Bud=92s shop. Go
slow, take your time, it=92s a worthwhile conversion to reduce the
personal stress of landing to just about zero.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On May 25, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
Kevin,
I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the corners
as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my clients make
tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes when it goes
a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay after the bid.
During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky initial layer
and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark hole and cutting
and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are essential. In the dry
glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity works 24/7 so simply
peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it cure. Use just a
bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting sticky. Remember to
leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My clients
have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual cutouts,
make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to leave
working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find that the
dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is a real
back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for good
visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida and the
glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential to
check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial reinforcements
on day 1.
Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check everything
absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux in the
tubes.
Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over
it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib,
peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over tacky
glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good for that
and have a kit with the top off.
Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the gear
and finish up or...
Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and
make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
CFC, Inc.
> Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
>
> The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire area
of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
>
> a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state
any preference. What have others done?
>
> b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds and
overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater installation
and would also increase the number of layers in the corners. Surely a
good thing?
>
> I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
>
> Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height, onto
the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central tunnel,
with the fibres running spanwise.
>
> c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage bay
box?
> Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
>
> Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build
and what is considered best practice for this layup.
>
> The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back support
belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> --------
> Regards
>
> Kelv Weston
> Kit 497
> kelv@kdweston.biz
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Hi Bob,
Can you tell me if the axles are for 500 series wheels please, and do
they have provision for spats, standard??
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 26 May 2014, at 12:03 pm, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> Check my site at EuropaOwners.org. On the main page (
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=60232 ) there=92s an
album in the upper right corner titled Tri-Gear Conversion. It has a
fairly complete pictorial documentation of the work at Bud=92s shop. Go
slow, take your time, it=92s a worthwhile conversion to reduce the
personal stress of landing to just about zero.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
>
>
> On May 25, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the
corners as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my
clients make tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes
when it goes a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay
after the bid. During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky
initial layer and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark
hole and cutting and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are
essential. In the dry glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity
works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it
cure. Use just a bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting
sticky. Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
>
> Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My
clients have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual
cutouts, make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to
leave working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find
that the dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is
a real back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for
good visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida
and the glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential
to check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
>
> It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
>
> My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial
reinforcements on day 1.
> Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check
everything absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux
in the tubes.
> Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over
it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib,
peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
> Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over
tacky glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good
for that and have a kit with the top off.
> Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
> Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the
gear and finish up or...
> Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
>
> Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and
make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
>
> Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
>
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
> CFC, Inc.
>
>
>
> > Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> > From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> > Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >
<kelv@kdweston.biz>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
> >
> > The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire
area of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
> >
> > a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state
any preference. What have others done?
> >
> > b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds
and overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater
installation and would also increase the number of layers in the
corners. Surely a good thing?
> >
> > I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
> >
> > Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height,
onto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central
tunnel, with the fibres running spanwise.
> >
> > c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage
bay box?
> > Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
> >
> > Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build
and what is considered best practice for this layup.
> >
> > The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back
support belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
> >
> > Many thanks.
> >
> > --------
> > Regards
> >
> > Kelv Weston
> > Kit 497
> > kelv@kdweston.biz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay |
Hi again Tony,
Can=92t tell if the axles are for 500 series wheels right off the top of
my head. Bud could probably answer that quicker than I could.
No, they do not have provisions for spats as standard. I had to make up
all the fittings for spats and get wheel nuts for spats.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On May 25, 2014, at 9:09 PM, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
wrote:
Hi Bob,
Can you tell me if the axles are for 500 series wheels please, and do
they have provision for spats, standard??
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 26 May 2014, at 12:03 pm, Robert Borger <rlborger@mac.com> wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> Check my site at EuropaOwners.org. On the main page (
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=60232 ) there=92s an
album in the upper right corner titled Tri-Gear Conversion. It has a
fairly complete pictorial documentation of the work at Bud=92s shop. Go
slow, take your time, it=92s a worthwhile conversion to reduce the
personal stress of landing to just about zero.
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger@mac.com
>
>
> On May 25, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the
corners as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my
clients make tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes
when it goes a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay
after the bid. During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky
initial layer and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark
hole and cutting and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are
essential. In the dry glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity
works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it
cure. Use just a bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting
sticky. Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
>
> Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My
clients have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual
cutouts, make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to
leave working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find
that the dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is
a real back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for
good visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida
and the glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential
to check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
>
> It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
>
> My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial
reinforcements on day 1.
> Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check
everything absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux
in the tubes.
> Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over
it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib,
peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
> Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over
tacky glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good
for that and have a kit with the top off.
> Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
> Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the
gear and finish up or...
> Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
>
> Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and
make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
>
> Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
>
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
> CFC, Inc.
>
>
>
> > Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> > From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> > Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >
<kelv@kdweston.biz>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
> >
> > The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire
area of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
> >
> > a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state
any preference. What have others done?
> >
> > b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds
and overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater
installation and would also increase the number of layers in the
corners. Surely a good thing?
> >
> > I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
> >
> > Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height,
onto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central
tunnel, with the fibres running spanwise.
> >
> > c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage
bay box?
> > Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
> >
> > Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build
and what is considered best practice for this layup.
> >
> > The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back
support belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
> >
> > Many thanks.
> >
> > --------
> > Regards
> >
> > Kelv Weston
> > Kit 497
> > kelv@kdweston.biz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Bob Berube Taildraggers |
Gidday,
I am hoping in being put in touch with others who have built or are building the
Berube Taildragger, particularly flying. Any help appreciated.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Bob Berube Taildraggers |
Tonythere was one which has showed up at the Rough River, TN fly inperhaps someone
else who was there remembers the builder/pilots name?seems to me it had yellow
trimthought it was from Ohio, but may be mistakenFred
On May 25, 2014, at 10:03 PM, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Gidday,
> I am hoping in being put in touch with others who have built or are building
the Berube Taildragger, particularly flying. Any help appreciated.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
>
>
>
>
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