Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce)
2. 01:03 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce)
3. 04:16 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (William Daniell)
4. 07:11 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (Fred Klein)
5. 07:47 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce)
6. 09:52 AM - Auto Pilot for Mono (Jerry Rehn)
7. 10:11 AM - Re: Auto Pilot for Mono (Rob Housman)
8. 11:02 AM - Re: Soldering Advice (Tony Renshaw)
9. 01:18 PM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (Bud Yerly)
10. 10:34 PM - Re: Auto Pilot for Mono (AUVRAY Michel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
William, I don't know that I can really be any help
without looking at the set up directly. But my point about
the Smart tool is that it is an inclinometer (and there
are cheaper if slightly less accurate ones available) with
which you can measure the angle of the top surface in
neutral, fully up and fully down positions. Subtracting
one from the other gives you your deflections with no
scope for confusion. I was not clear whether you are doing
these measurements with both wings rigged and if so
whether you are getting full down and limited up on each
side. Also whether measuring deflections on the unrigged
isolated wing gives you the full range (which of course
rules out any question of the mass balance horn
interfering).
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500
William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
> David
> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this
>is the root of the
> problem. I made two templates and following buds
>instructions measured at
> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower
>surface of the wing
> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I
>am measuring both
> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid
>point.
> Is this correct?
> Will
> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce"
><davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
>
>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>
>>
>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got
>>one I would
>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so
>>that you can easily
>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me
>>to wonder whether
>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same
>>surface (i.e. Are
>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper
>>surface, then measuring
>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than
>>the up angle of
>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower
>>surface) Regards, David
>> Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>
>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500
>> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I am rigging everything prior to closing
>>>
>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the
>>>underside mindful
>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
>>>
>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
>>>
>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted
>>>such that when the
>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has
>>>moved 23.5 up.*
>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of
>>>the lateral push-rod
>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a
>>>line between both
>>> spar bushes.*
>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that
>>>both control
>>> columns are parallel.*
>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s
>>>and the CS15
>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the
>>>control columns are
>>> vertical.*
>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should
>>>be 23.5 up and 20
>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and
>>>both ailerons should
>>> be in their neutral positions together when the*
>>> *control columns are vertical.*
>>>
>>>
>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both
>>>stops but they don't
>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would
>>>guess that they are
>>> about 15-17 down
>>>
>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled
>>>around but Im stumped.
>>> What I am I doing wrong?
>>>
>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be
>>>parallell in this case
>>> due to variation in the build....
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Will
>>>
>>>
>>> William Daniell
>>> LONGPORT
>>> +57 310 295 0744
>>>
>>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged
wings and full down/reduced up on both with both wings
rigged , then you need to adjust the length of control
rods between wingroot and bell crank. Regards, David
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500
William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
> David
> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this
>is the root of the
> problem. I made two templates and following buds
>instructions measured at
> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower
>surface of the wing
> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I
>am measuring both
> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid
>point.
> Is this correct?
> Will
> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce"
><davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
>
>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>
>>
>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got
>>one I would
>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so
>>that you can easily
>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me
>>to wonder whether
>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same
>>surface (i.e. Are
>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper
>>surface, then measuring
>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than
>>the up angle of
>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower
>>surface) Regards, David
>> Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>
>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500
>> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I am rigging everything prior to closing
>>>
>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the
>>>underside mindful
>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
>>>
>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
>>>
>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted
>>>such that when the
>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has
>>>moved 23.5 up.*
>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of
>>>the lateral push-rod
>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a
>>>line between both
>>> spar bushes.*
>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that
>>>both control
>>> columns are parallel.*
>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s
>>>and the CS15
>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the
>>>control columns are
>>> vertical.*
>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should
>>>be 23.5 up and 20
>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and
>>>both ailerons should
>>> be in their neutral positions together when the*
>>> *control columns are vertical.*
>>>
>>>
>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both
>>>stops but they don't
>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would
>>>guess that they are
>>> about 15-17 down
>>>
>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled
>>>around but Im stumped.
>>> What I am I doing wrong?
>>>
>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be
>>>parallell in this case
>>> due to variation in the build....
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Will
>>>
>>>
>>> William Daniell
>>> LONGPORT
>>> +57 310 295 0744
>>>
>>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
Gentlemen thanks for your contributions
I do have more than the full movement required without the wings rigged
leading me to identify the control system as the prime suspect.
I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend (very annoying how
work interferes with building)
- I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one which is too
unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short one
- Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's instructions
- Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg
- level everything and check that the fuselage end is all correct
- control columns vertical and parallel
- centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are vertical (using my
newly acquired short smart tool)
- And then if that doesn't solve it start playing around with the
fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit lies.
- I think on reflection that I haven't followed the process carefully
enough so ....I am going to do it again...
thanks Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
wrote:
> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>
>
> William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and full
> down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to adjust
> the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank. Regards, Dav
id
>
> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500
> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> David
>> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this is the root of t
he
>> problem. I made two templates and following buds instructions measured
at
>> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower surface of the wing
>> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I am measuring bo
th
>> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid point.
>> Is this correct?
>> Will
>> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>>
>>>
>>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got one I would
>>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so that you can easil
y
>>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me to wonder wheth
er
>>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same surface (i.e. Ar
e
>>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper surface, then measurin
g
>>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than the up angle o
f
>>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower surface) Regards, Dav
id
>>> Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>>
>>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500
>>> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am rigging everything prior to closing
>>>>
>>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the underside
>>>> mindful
>>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
>>>>
>>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
>>>>
>>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted such that when t
he
>>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has moved 23.5=C2=BA
up.*
>>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of the lateral
>>>> push-rod
>>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90=C2=BA to a line bet
ween
>>>> both
>>>> spar bushes.*
>>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that both control
>>>> columns are parallel.*
>>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08=99s and th
e CS15
>>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the control columns
>>>> are
>>>> vertical.*
>>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should be 23.5=C2=BA u
p and
>>>> 20=C2=BA
>>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and both ailerons
>>>> should
>>>> be in their neutral positions together when the*
>>>> *control columns are vertical.*
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both stops but they
>>>> don't
>>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would guess that they a
re
>>>> about 15-17 down
>>>>
>>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled around but Im
>>>> stumped.
>>>> What I am I doing wrong?
>>>>
>>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be parallell in this
>>>> case
>>>> due to variation in the build....
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Will
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> William Daniell
>>>> LONGPORT
>>>> +57 310 295 0744
>>>>
>>>>
>>> ===========
>> ===========
>> ===========
>> ===========
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
Will=85sorry that I=92ve been unable to help, but please do make a
posting detailing how this works out for you; I suspect it would be most
helpful to others=85Fred
On Jun 25, 2014, at 4:15 AM, William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
> Gentlemen thanks for your contributions
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
William, If your Smartool is anything like my long
smartool you can unscreww the short smartool from it
rather than buy another. Regards, David Joyce
On Wed, 25 Jun 2014 06:15:43 -0500
William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
> Gentlemen thanks for your contributions
>
> I do have more than the full movement required without
>the wings rigged
> leading me to identify the control system as the prime
>suspect.
>
> I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend
>(very annoying how
> work interferes with building)
>
> - I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one
>which is too
> unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short
>one
> - Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's
>instructions
> - Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg
> - level everything and check that the fuselage end is
>all correct
> - control columns vertical and parallel
> - centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are
>vertical (using my
> newly acquired short smart tool)
> - And then if that doesn't solve it start playing
>around with the
> fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit
>lies.
> - I think on reflection that I haven't followed the
>process carefully
> enough so ....I am going to do it again...
>
> thanks Will
>
> William Daniell
> LONGPORT
> +57 310 295 0744
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce
><davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
> wrote:
>
>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>
>>
>> William, As a PS if you do have full range on the
>>unrigged wings and full
>> down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then
>>you need to adjust
>> the length of control rods between wingroot and bell
>>crank. Regards, David
>>
>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500
>> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> David
>>> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this
>>>is the root of the
>>> problem. I made two templates and following buds
>>>instructions measured at
>>> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower
>>>surface of the wing
>>> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I
>>>am measuring both
>>> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid
>>>point.
>>> Is this correct?
>>> Will
>>> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce"
>>><davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got
>>>>one I would
>>>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so
>>>>that you can easily
>>>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me
>>>>to wonder whether
>>>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same
>>>>surface (i.e. Are
>>>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper
>>>>surface, then measuring
>>>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than
>>>>the up angle of
>>>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower
>>>>surface) Regards, David
>>>> Joyce, G-XSDJ
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500
>>>> William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am rigging everything prior to closing
>>>>>
>>>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the
>>>>>underside
>>>>> mindful
>>>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
>>>>>
>>>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
>>>>>
>>>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted
>>>>>such that when the
>>>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has
>>>>>moved 23.5 up.*
>>>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of
>>>>>the lateral
>>>>> push-rod
>>>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a
>>>>>line between
>>>>> both
>>>>> spar bushes.*
>>>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that
>>>>>both control
>>>>> columns are parallel.*
>>>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s
>>>>>and the CS15
>>>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the
>>>>>control columns
>>>>> are
>>>>> vertical.*
>>>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should
>>>>>be 23.5 up and
>>>>> 20
>>>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and
>>>>>both ailerons
>>>>> should
>>>>> be in their neutral positions together when the*
>>>>> *control columns are vertical.*
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both
>>>>>stops but they
>>>>> don't
>>>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would
>>>>>guess that they are
>>>>> about 15-17 down
>>>>>
>>>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled
>>>>>around but Im
>>>>> stumped.
>>>>> What I am I doing wrong?
>>>>>
>>>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be
>>>>>parallell in this
>>>>> case
>>>>> due to variation in the build....
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Will
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> William Daniell
>>>>> LONGPORT
>>>>> +57 310 295 0744
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>> ===========
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Auto Pilot for Mono |
I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture and
any particular tips and tricks?
Thanks for input!
Jerry
Mono XS 914
Sent from my iPad
Message 7
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| Subject: | Auto Pilot for Mono |
Having recently done the retrofit of the Dynon servos (very similar to
TruTrak) on my completed tri-gear airframe I have a few tips to offer. In
fact, I attempted to post the tips to the forum about a month ago but
apparently my attached files were not acceptable for posting. Contact me off
list at rob92620@gmail.com and I will provide all the gory details, complete
with bracket design for Dynon, 3D eDrawing files and a link to the utility
for viewing eDrawing files. This is not a straightforward retrofit for Mod
76 on a completed airframe (contrary to what the factory implies in Mod 76).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, California
Europa XS
Rotax 914
S/N A070
Airframe complete
Avionics in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Rehn
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 9:52 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Auto Pilot for Mono
rehn@rockisland.com>
I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture
and any particular tips and tricks?
Thanks for input!
Jerry
Mono XS 914
Sent from my iPad
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering Advice |
Thanks Bud,
I have a point tip too and I realise now the benefits of a chisel tip. I'll g
et one when I get home to Aussie. I understand the heat control better, as I
have had the insulation shrink away from the joint. The chisel should make t
he heat application more controlled. Now to find some 63/37 solder. I tried a
t home and it seems hard to get, but I believe a jewellery supplier might be
able to help me. Evidently they use different ratios of solder to work up t
hings, as the underlying solder has a higher melting point. Clever. I've wat
ched the odd YouTube vid, but am now off to watch some more.
Thanks again.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
> On 24 Jun 2014, at 4:16 pm, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Tony,
> Back from a working vacation. To your questions:
>
> I use the 60/40 (tin/lead) solder mostly. Any lower tin content and after
a few years funny noises happen as the solder joint ages. Higher tin is br
ittle, but looks good on copper pipes. Since we don't do copper pipes, stic
k to the recommended solder by the experts. 60/40 takes a bit more heat, co
ols slower and can cause a cold joint if you move the wire while cooling. 6
3/37 melts and cools nicer. It cools faster, and allows you to hand solder w
ithout using a helper or set of clamps to keep everything solid. Use rosin c
ore not acid core solder period. For circuits the 2% silver solder is recom
mended but not necessary. Heat is a bit higher so use patience.
>
> See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ for a great lesson on too
ls then go to part 2 for soldering D subs. Also Google proper soldering tec
hnique to prevent overheating wires, solder inspection for cold solders, etc
. Pace Worldwide has a number of texts and now videos on techniques.
>
> As far as wicking, if you heat a wire (copper or mil spec) and get it very
hot back under the insulation, when the solder is put to the wire, it will r
apidly run up the wire and under the insulation making a very stiff wire. I
f the wire is flexed or allowed to vibrate, it tends to be brittle and will c
rack. If the proper technique is used to heat the wire just enough to melt t
he solder you should be OK. I will admit, I allow my solder iron to get to p
roper temp, clean the tip and put a small drop of solder on the tip. Then I
dip the wire on to the hot solder gun and allow the drip of solder to begin
to wick up to just short of the insulation. If the insulation is melting o
r you can't hold the insulation because the wire is too hot, you've got too m
uch heat. Practice and flex the wire then cut the wire and look. Work on y
our technique. In a few minutes you will be an expert.
>
> Practice and see what works best as far your equipment and technique. If t
he solder looks clean, bright and smooth, it will normally be a good joint.
I use a round tip on my 20 watt Weller and it has a problem with heating an
ything but a point source like on a circuit board. A chisel tip on my varia
ble heat Weller is better for most of our work.
>
> Enjoy yourself,
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> > From: tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com
> > Subject: Europa-List: Soldering Advice
> > Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 12:01:54 +1000
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >
m>
> >
> > Gidday,
> > I read somewhere about using a different ratio solder from what seems to
be more commonly available. Can someone confirm the ratios pleases
omething like 70/30. Thanks.
> > Regards
> > Tony Renshaw====================
=
> >====================
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: My ailerons wont go down |
Will,
You've got the right attitude.
Setting the belcrank on the wing to 90 degrees is only one part of the
rig. Your fuselage QDs may be the culprit as well. You can adjust the
aileron as suggested many ways. Check that your flaps and wingtips are
not drooping. Use your incidence board and check the flaps on both
sides are dead level with the board. If your board is lost, you have
only the lower wing to set level across the flaps with the lower first
six inches of the wing skin.
Big thing to remember is the outer short push rod sets the up limit at
nominally 23.5 to 24.5 (25.5 max). The up limit on one aileron sets the
down limit on the other. If you have full required travel of the
aileron (roughly 42-46 degrees) your problem is normally your QDs are
not set vertical to the ground with the fuselage level and plumb.
Measuring with a Smart digital level is made easier by some
manufacturers by removing the center portion. Now you have a short
smart level. The smart tool is a bit cumbersome to use but essential
for the flap/stab measurements. For the ailerons, I use a simple
protractor made by General (#29) for inside and outside measurements.
It is about $5. (A carpenters bevel gauge works outstanding also.)
Set the protractor/bevel gauge at the desired angle and put it just to
the outboard of either wing hinge (I use the inboard) and take a quick
look and adjust down to about 24.5 degrees or so by just holding the
gauge to the wing and looking at the gap. With the aileron up (outside
postion on the protractor) I set the pushrod to give me 23.5 to 24.5 as
set on my protractor/bevel gauge. I do the same on the other wing. I
check that with the aileron down I get full down plus some before the
wt. hits the closeout. Then set the fuselage and wing QD to vertical.
That should work, but doesn't always as you found out!
Some adjustment of the fuselage QD belcrank is necessary to get the
ailerons to be level with the flaps and outboard wing tip. Use your now
shortened smart tool to get the fuselage QD vertical with the outer skin
as best you can, or put the pins in and set a T square on them to set
the QDs. Yes, I know the T square is too big, so put the long section
in the fuselage and use a piece of 6 inch 3/4 lumber on the QD and align
it with the square. Make sure both sides are the same. Set the wing
lateral push rod to get the wing QD parallel to the pins. Don't get
excited about setting the phenolic pads right now. Look hard at your
bolt head alignment on the QDs. They are probably off a bit. By
adjusting slightly the angle of the QD you can adjust for some
misalignment. Then put in the final pad. (If too far apart, tack some
phenolic in place with a drop of super glue to help get things close to
final.) Repeat on the other wing. Note the ailerons for droop or
reflex (up) with both wings rigged and pinned. The ailerons should be
even (both slightly up or down). Now, degrig, adjust the lateral
pushrod a turn in the appropriate direction on each side, and rerig.
Continue until you have them both even and the throw correct.
To be honest, sometimes the wingtip is a bit off, so if your flaps are
dead on, use them. If the tips are off, I use a smart level and my T
squares to measure if there is twist between wings. That's another fix
we won't get into right now. See my trimming notes if the incidence or
flaps are not exactly the same.
Good luck this weekend. You have all the tools and frankly it sounds
like you have the total throw so you're almost there.
Remember, if you haven't taken it apart and put it together at least
five times (per wing), you're doing it wrong.
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down
Gentlemen thanks for your contributions
I do have more than the full movement required without the wings
rigged leading me to identify the control system as the prime suspect.
I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend (very annoying
how work interferes with building)
a.. I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one which is too
unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short one
b.. Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's instructions
c.. Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg
d.. level everything and check that the fuselage end is all correct
a.. control columns vertical and parallel
b.. centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are vertical
(using my newly acquired short smart tool)
e.. And then if that doesn't solve it start playing around with the
fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit lies.
f.. I think on reflection that I haven't followed the process
carefully enough so ....I am going to do it again...
thanks Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744<tel:%2B57%20310%20295%200744>
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>> wrote:
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>>
William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and
full down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to
adjust the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank.
Regards, David
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500
William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>> wrote:
David
Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this is the
root of the
problem. I made two templates and following buds instructions
measured at
the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower surface of the
wing
compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I am
measuring both
up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid point.
Is this correct?
Will
On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce"
<davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>> wrote:
davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk<mailto:davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>>
William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got one I
would
strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so that you
can easily
and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me to
wonder whether
you are measuring your up and down angles off the same surface
(i.e. Are
you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper surface, then
measuring
the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than the up
angle of
the upper surface and the down angle of the lower surface)
Regards, David
Joyce, G-XSDJ
On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500
William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>> wrote:
I am rigging everything prior to closing
I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the
underside mindful
or buds strictures to measure at the hinge
I have followed the procedure on the book (i think).
*1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted such
that when the
bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has moved
23.5=C2=BA up.*
*2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of the
lateral push-rod
so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90=C2=BA to a
line between both
spar bushes.*
*3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that both
control
columns are parallel.*
*4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the
CS08=99s and the CS15
bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the control
columns are
vertical.*
*When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should be
23.5=C2=BA up and 20=C2=BA
down with full lateral **control column movement and both
ailerons should
be in their neutral positions together when the*
*control columns are vertical.*
My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both stops but
they don't
go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would guess
that they are
about 15-17 down
I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled around but
Im stumped.
What I am I doing wrong?
Might it be that the control columns should not be parallell
in this case
due to variation in the build....
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744<tel:%2B57%20310%20295%200744>
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MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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avigator?Europa-List>
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on>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilot for Mono |
Hello Jerry,
I use Dynon Autopilot since 2008. It is very good product, easy to
install and configure.
My configuration is D10A+AP74+SV32 pitch+SV32 ailerons.
Have agood day
Michel AUVRAY
Le 25/06/2014 18:52, Jerry Rehn a crit :
>
> I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture and
any particular tips and tricks?
> Thanks for input!
> Jerry
> Mono XS 914
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
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