---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 06/25/14: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:57 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce) 2. 01:03 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce) 3. 04:16 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (William Daniell) 4. 07:11 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (Fred Klein) 5. 07:47 AM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (David Joyce) 6. 09:52 AM - Auto Pilot for Mono (Jerry Rehn) 7. 10:11 AM - Re: Auto Pilot for Mono (Rob Housman) 8. 11:02 AM - Re: Soldering Advice (Tony Renshaw) 9. 01:18 PM - Re: My ailerons wont go down (Bud Yerly) 10. 10:34 PM - Re: Auto Pilot for Mono (AUVRAY Michel) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:57:24 AM PST US From: "David Joyce" Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down William, I don't know that I can really be any help without looking at the set up directly. But my point about the Smart tool is that it is an inclinometer (and there are cheaper if slightly less accurate ones available) with which you can measure the angle of the top surface in neutral, fully up and fully down positions. Subtracting one from the other gives you your deflections with no scope for confusion. I was not clear whether you are doing these measurements with both wings rigged and if so whether you are getting full down and limited up on each side. Also whether measuring deflections on the unrigged isolated wing gives you the full range (which of course rules out any question of the mass balance horn interfering). Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500 William Daniell wrote: > David > Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this >is the root of the > problem. I made two templates and following buds >instructions measured at > the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower >surface of the wing > compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I >am measuring both > up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid >point. > Is this correct? > Will > On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" > wrote: > >> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> >> >> >> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got >>one I would >> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so >>that you can easily >> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me >>to wonder whether >> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same >>surface (i.e. Are >> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper >>surface, then measuring >> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than >>the up angle of >> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower >>surface) Regards, David >> Joyce, G-XSDJ >> >> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500 >> William Daniell wrote: >> >>> I am rigging everything prior to closing >>> >>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the >>>underside mindful >>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge >>> >>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think). >>> >>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted >>>such that when the >>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has >>>moved 23.5 up.* >>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of >>>the lateral push-rod >>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a >>>line between both >>> spar bushes.* >>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that >>>both control >>> columns are parallel.* >>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s >>>and the CS15 >>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the >>>control columns are >>> vertical.* >>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should >>>be 23.5 up and 20 >>> down with full lateral **control column movement and >>>both ailerons should >>> be in their neutral positions together when the* >>> *control columns are vertical.* >>> >>> >>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both >>>stops but they don't >>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would >>>guess that they are >>> about 15-17 down >>> >>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled >>>around but Im stumped. >>> What I am I doing wrong? >>> >>> Might it be that the control columns should not be >>>parallell in this case >>> due to variation in the build.... >>> >>> thanks >>> >>> Will >>> >>> >>> William Daniell >>> LONGPORT >>> +57 310 295 0744 >>> >> > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== >> >> >> >> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:03:38 AM PST US From: "David Joyce" Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and full down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to adjust the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank. Regards, David On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500 William Daniell wrote: > David > Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this >is the root of the > problem. I made two templates and following buds >instructions measured at > the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower >surface of the wing > compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I >am measuring both > up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid >point. > Is this correct? > Will > On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" > wrote: > >> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> >> >> >> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got >>one I would >> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so >>that you can easily >> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me >>to wonder whether >> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same >>surface (i.e. Are >> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper >>surface, then measuring >> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than >>the up angle of >> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower >>surface) Regards, David >> Joyce, G-XSDJ >> >> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500 >> William Daniell wrote: >> >>> I am rigging everything prior to closing >>> >>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the >>>underside mindful >>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge >>> >>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think). >>> >>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted >>>such that when the >>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has >>>moved 23.5 up.* >>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of >>>the lateral push-rod >>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a >>>line between both >>> spar bushes.* >>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that >>>both control >>> columns are parallel.* >>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s >>>and the CS15 >>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the >>>control columns are >>> vertical.* >>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should >>>be 23.5 up and 20 >>> down with full lateral **control column movement and >>>both ailerons should >>> be in their neutral positions together when the* >>> *control columns are vertical.* >>> >>> >>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both >>>stops but they don't >>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would >>>guess that they are >>> about 15-17 down >>> >>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled >>>around but Im stumped. >>> What I am I doing wrong? >>> >>> Might it be that the control columns should not be >>>parallell in this case >>> due to variation in the build.... >>> >>> thanks >>> >>> Will >>> >>> >>> William Daniell >>> LONGPORT >>> +57 310 295 0744 >>> >> > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== >> >> >> >> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:16:25 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down From: William Daniell Gentlemen thanks for your contributions I do have more than the full movement required without the wings rigged leading me to identify the control system as the prime suspect. I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend (very annoying how work interferes with building) - I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one which is too unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short one - Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's instructions - Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg - level everything and check that the fuselage end is all correct - control columns vertical and parallel - centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are vertical (using my newly acquired short smart tool) - And then if that doesn't solve it start playing around with the fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit lies. - I think on reflection that I haven't followed the process carefully enough so ....I am going to do it again... thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce wrote: > davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> > > > William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and full > down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to adjust > the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank. Regards, Dav id > > On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500 > William Daniell wrote: > >> David >> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this is the root of t he >> problem. I made two templates and following buds instructions measured at >> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower surface of the wing >> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I am measuring bo th >> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid point. >> Is this correct? >> Will >> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" wrote: >> >>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> >>> >>> >>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got one I would >>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so that you can easil y >>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me to wonder wheth er >>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same surface (i.e. Ar e >>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper surface, then measurin g >>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than the up angle o f >>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower surface) Regards, Dav id >>> Joyce, G-XSDJ >>> >>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500 >>> William Daniell wrote: >>> >>> I am rigging everything prior to closing >>>> >>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the underside >>>> mindful >>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge >>>> >>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think). >>>> >>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted such that when t he >>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has moved 23.5=C2=BA up.* >>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of the lateral >>>> push-rod >>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90=C2=BA to a line bet ween >>>> both >>>> spar bushes.* >>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that both control >>>> columns are parallel.* >>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08=99s and th e CS15 >>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the control columns >>>> are >>>> vertical.* >>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should be 23.5=C2=BA u p and >>>> 20=C2=BA >>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and both ailerons >>>> should >>>> be in their neutral positions together when the* >>>> *control columns are vertical.* >>>> >>>> >>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both stops but they >>>> don't >>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would guess that they a re >>>> about 15-17 down >>>> >>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled around but Im >>>> stumped. >>>> What I am I doing wrong? >>>> >>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be parallell in this >>>> case >>>> due to variation in the build.... >>>> >>>> thanks >>>> >>>> Will >>>> >>>> >>>> William Daniell >>>> LONGPORT >>>> +57 310 295 0744 >>>> >>>> >>> =========== >> =========== >> =========== >> =========== >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:59 AM PST US From: Fred Klein Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down Will=85sorry that I=92ve been unable to help, but please do make a posting detailing how this works out for you; I suspect it would be most helpful to others=85Fred On Jun 25, 2014, at 4:15 AM, William Daniell wrote: > Gentlemen thanks for your contributions > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:47:46 AM PST US From: "David Joyce" Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down William, If your Smartool is anything like my long smartool you can unscreww the short smartool from it rather than buy another. Regards, David Joyce On Wed, 25 Jun 2014 06:15:43 -0500 William Daniell wrote: > Gentlemen thanks for your contributions > > I do have more than the full movement required without >the wings rigged > leading me to identify the control system as the prime >suspect. > > I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend >(very annoying how > work interferes with building) > > - I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one >which is too > unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short >one > - Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's >instructions > - Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg > - level everything and check that the fuselage end is >all correct > - control columns vertical and parallel > - centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are >vertical (using my > newly acquired short smart tool) > - And then if that doesn't solve it start playing >around with the > fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit >lies. > - I think on reflection that I haven't followed the >process carefully > enough so ....I am going to do it again... > > thanks Will > > William Daniell > LONGPORT > +57 310 295 0744 > > > On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce > > wrote: > >> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> >> >> >> William, As a PS if you do have full range on the >>unrigged wings and full >> down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then >>you need to adjust >> the length of control rods between wingroot and bell >>crank. Regards, David >> >> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500 >> William Daniell wrote: >> >>> David >>> Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this >>>is the root of the >>> problem. I made two templates and following buds >>>instructions measured at >>> the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower >>>surface of the wing >>> compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I >>>am measuring both >>> up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid >>>point. >>> Is this correct? >>> Will >>> On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" >>> wrote: >>> >>>> davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> >>>> >>>> >>>> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got >>>>one I would >>>> strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so >>>>that you can easily >>>> and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me >>>>to wonder whether >>>> you are measuring your up and down angles off the same >>>>surface (i.e. Are >>>> you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper >>>>surface, then measuring >>>> the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than >>>>the up angle of >>>> the upper surface and the down angle of the lower >>>>surface) Regards, David >>>> Joyce, G-XSDJ >>>> >>>> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500 >>>> William Daniell wrote: >>>> >>>> I am rigging everything prior to closing >>>>> >>>>> I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the >>>>>underside >>>>> mindful >>>>> or buds strictures to measure at the hinge >>>>> >>>>> I have followed the procedure on the book (i think). >>>>> >>>>> *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted >>>>>such that when the >>>>> bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has >>>>>moved 23.5 up.* >>>>> *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of >>>>>the lateral >>>>> push-rod >>>>> so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90 to a >>>>>line between >>>>> both >>>>> spar bushes.* >>>>> *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that >>>>>both control >>>>> columns are parallel.* >>>>> *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08s >>>>>and the CS15 >>>>> bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the >>>>>control columns >>>>> are >>>>> vertical.* >>>>> *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should >>>>>be 23.5 up and >>>>> 20 >>>>> down with full lateral **control column movement and >>>>>both ailerons >>>>> should >>>>> be in their neutral positions together when the* >>>>> *control columns are vertical.* >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both >>>>>stops but they >>>>> don't >>>>> go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would >>>>>guess that they are >>>>> about 15-17 down >>>>> >>>>> I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled >>>>>around but Im >>>>> stumped. >>>>> What I am I doing wrong? >>>>> >>>>> Might it be that the control columns should not be >>>>>parallell in this >>>>> case >>>>> due to variation in the build.... >>>>> >>>>> thanks >>>>> >>>>> Will >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> William Daniell >>>>> LONGPORT >>>>> +57 310 295 0744 >>>>> >>>>> >>>> =========== >>> =========== >>> =========== >>> =========== >>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== >> >> >> >> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:52:53 AM PST US From: Jerry Rehn Subject: Europa-List: Auto Pilot for Mono I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture and any particular tips and tricks? Thanks for input! Jerry Mono XS 914 Sent from my iPad ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:11:06 AM PST US From: "Rob Housman" Subject: RE: Europa-List: Auto Pilot for Mono Having recently done the retrofit of the Dynon servos (very similar to TruTrak) on my completed tri-gear airframe I have a few tips to offer. In fact, I attempted to post the tips to the forum about a month ago but apparently my attached files were not acceptable for posting. Contact me off list at rob92620@gmail.com and I will provide all the gory details, complete with bracket design for Dynon, 3D eDrawing files and a link to the utility for viewing eDrawing files. This is not a straightforward retrofit for Mod 76 on a completed airframe (contrary to what the factory implies in Mod 76). Best regards, Rob Housman Irvine, California Europa XS Rotax 914 S/N A070 Airframe complete Avionics in progress -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Rehn Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 9:52 AM Subject: Europa-List: Auto Pilot for Mono rehn@rockisland.com> I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture and any particular tips and tricks? Thanks for input! Jerry Mono XS 914 Sent from my iPad http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:02:48 AM PST US From: Tony Renshaw Subject: Re: Europa-List: Soldering Advice Thanks Bud, I have a point tip too and I realise now the benefits of a chisel tip. I'll g et one when I get home to Aussie. I understand the heat control better, as I have had the insulation shrink away from the joint. The chisel should make t he heat application more controlled. Now to find some 63/37 solder. I tried a t home and it seems hard to get, but I believe a jewellery supplier might be able to help me. Evidently they use different ratios of solder to work up t hings, as the underlying solder has a higher melting point. Clever. I've wat ched the odd YouTube vid, but am now off to watch some more. Thanks again. Regards Tony Renshaw Sent from my iPad > On 24 Jun 2014, at 4:16 pm, Bud Yerly wrote: > > Tony, > Back from a working vacation. To your questions: > > I use the 60/40 (tin/lead) solder mostly. Any lower tin content and after a few years funny noises happen as the solder joint ages. Higher tin is br ittle, but looks good on copper pipes. Since we don't do copper pipes, stic k to the recommended solder by the experts. 60/40 takes a bit more heat, co ols slower and can cause a cold joint if you move the wire while cooling. 6 3/37 melts and cools nicer. It cools faster, and allows you to hand solder w ithout using a helper or set of clamps to keep everything solid. Use rosin c ore not acid core solder period. For circuits the 2% silver solder is recom mended but not necessary. Heat is a bit higher so use patience. > > See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ for a great lesson on too ls then go to part 2 for soldering D subs. Also Google proper soldering tec hnique to prevent overheating wires, solder inspection for cold solders, etc . Pace Worldwide has a number of texts and now videos on techniques. > > As far as wicking, if you heat a wire (copper or mil spec) and get it very hot back under the insulation, when the solder is put to the wire, it will r apidly run up the wire and under the insulation making a very stiff wire. I f the wire is flexed or allowed to vibrate, it tends to be brittle and will c rack. If the proper technique is used to heat the wire just enough to melt t he solder you should be OK. I will admit, I allow my solder iron to get to p roper temp, clean the tip and put a small drop of solder on the tip. Then I dip the wire on to the hot solder gun and allow the drip of solder to begin to wick up to just short of the insulation. If the insulation is melting o r you can't hold the insulation because the wire is too hot, you've got too m uch heat. Practice and flex the wire then cut the wire and look. Work on y our technique. In a few minutes you will be an expert. > > Practice and see what works best as far your equipment and technique. If t he solder looks clean, bright and smooth, it will normally be a good joint. I use a round tip on my 20 watt Weller and it has a problem with heating an ything but a point source like on a circuit board. A chisel tip on my varia ble heat Weller is better for most of our work. > > Enjoy yourself, > Regards, > Bud Yerly > > > From: tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com > > Subject: Europa-List: Soldering Advice > > Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 12:01:54 +1000 > > To: europa-list@matronics.com > > m> > > > > Gidday, > > I read somewhere about using a different ratio solder from what seems to be more commonly available. Can someone confirm the ratios pleases omething like 70/30. Thanks. > > Regards > > Tony Renshaw==================== = > >==================== > > > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 01:18:06 PM PST US From: "Bud Yerly" Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down Will, You've got the right attitude. Setting the belcrank on the wing to 90 degrees is only one part of the rig. Your fuselage QDs may be the culprit as well. You can adjust the aileron as suggested many ways. Check that your flaps and wingtips are not drooping. Use your incidence board and check the flaps on both sides are dead level with the board. If your board is lost, you have only the lower wing to set level across the flaps with the lower first six inches of the wing skin. Big thing to remember is the outer short push rod sets the up limit at nominally 23.5 to 24.5 (25.5 max). The up limit on one aileron sets the down limit on the other. If you have full required travel of the aileron (roughly 42-46 degrees) your problem is normally your QDs are not set vertical to the ground with the fuselage level and plumb. Measuring with a Smart digital level is made easier by some manufacturers by removing the center portion. Now you have a short smart level. The smart tool is a bit cumbersome to use but essential for the flap/stab measurements. For the ailerons, I use a simple protractor made by General (#29) for inside and outside measurements. It is about $5. (A carpenters bevel gauge works outstanding also.) Set the protractor/bevel gauge at the desired angle and put it just to the outboard of either wing hinge (I use the inboard) and take a quick look and adjust down to about 24.5 degrees or so by just holding the gauge to the wing and looking at the gap. With the aileron up (outside postion on the protractor) I set the pushrod to give me 23.5 to 24.5 as set on my protractor/bevel gauge. I do the same on the other wing. I check that with the aileron down I get full down plus some before the wt. hits the closeout. Then set the fuselage and wing QD to vertical. That should work, but doesn't always as you found out! Some adjustment of the fuselage QD belcrank is necessary to get the ailerons to be level with the flaps and outboard wing tip. Use your now shortened smart tool to get the fuselage QD vertical with the outer skin as best you can, or put the pins in and set a T square on them to set the QDs. Yes, I know the T square is too big, so put the long section in the fuselage and use a piece of 6 inch 3/4 lumber on the QD and align it with the square. Make sure both sides are the same. Set the wing lateral push rod to get the wing QD parallel to the pins. Don't get excited about setting the phenolic pads right now. Look hard at your bolt head alignment on the QDs. They are probably off a bit. By adjusting slightly the angle of the QD you can adjust for some misalignment. Then put in the final pad. (If too far apart, tack some phenolic in place with a drop of super glue to help get things close to final.) Repeat on the other wing. Note the ailerons for droop or reflex (up) with both wings rigged and pinned. The ailerons should be even (both slightly up or down). Now, degrig, adjust the lateral pushrod a turn in the appropriate direction on each side, and rerig. Continue until you have them both even and the throw correct. To be honest, sometimes the wingtip is a bit off, so if your flaps are dead on, use them. If the tips are off, I use a smart level and my T squares to measure if there is twist between wings. That's another fix we won't get into right now. See my trimming notes if the incidence or flaps are not exactly the same. Good luck this weekend. You have all the tools and frankly it sounds like you have the total throw so you're almost there. Remember, if you haven't taken it apart and put it together at least five times (per wing), you're doing it wrong. Bud Yerly ----- Original Message ----- From: William Daniell To: europa-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 7:15 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: My ailerons wont go down Gentlemen thanks for your contributions I do have more than the full movement required without the wings rigged leading me to identify the control system as the prime suspect. I shall re-start the process from scratch next weekend (very annoying how work interferes with building) a.. I do actually have a smart tool but it's a long one which is too unwieldy for the ailerons so I will acquire a short one b.. Reducing the up throw by one degree per bud's instructions c.. Adjust the wing QD to 90 deg d.. level everything and check that the fuselage end is all correct a.. control columns vertical and parallel b.. centre the ailerons and ensure that the QDs are vertical (using my newly acquired short smart tool) e.. And then if that doesn't solve it start playing around with the fuselage link rods - where I now suspect the culprit lies. f.. I think on reflection that I haven't followed the process carefully enough so ....I am going to do it again... thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:02 AM, David Joyce > wrote: > William, As a PS if you do have full range on the unrigged wings and full down/reduced up on both with both wings rigged , then you need to adjust the length of control rods between wingroot and bell crank. Regards, David On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:25:15 -0500 William Daniell > wrote: David Yes the thought ocurred to me and it could be that this is the root of the problem. I made two templates and following buds instructions measured at the hinge both for up and down ie using the lower surface of the wing compared to the lower surface of the aileron. So yes I am measuring both up and down from the same place...the inboard hinge mid point. Is this correct? Will On 24 Jun 2014 12:43, "David Joyce" > wrote: davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> William, I don't know the answer, but if you haven't got one I would strongly advise getting or borrowing a Smart Tool so that you can easily and very accurately measure angles. It does occur to me to wonder whether you are measuring your up and down angles off the same surface (i.e. Are you measuring the neutral angle of say the upper surface, then measuring the up and down angles of the upper surface, rather than the up angle of the upper surface and the down angle of the lower surface) Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 11:44:48 -0500 William Daniell > wrote: I am rigging everything prior to closing I made some templates 23.5 up and 20 down for use on the underside mindful or buds strictures to measure at the hinge I have followed the procedure on the book (i think). *1. Check that the short aileron link-rod is adjusted such that when the bellcrank W13 is against its **stop, the aileron has moved 23.5=C2=BA up.* *2. With the aileron at neutral, adjust the length of the lateral push-rod so that the quick-connect **bellcrank W16 is at 90=C2=BA to a line between both spar bushes.* *3. Adjust the tie-rod between both cranks CS08 so that both control columns are parallel.* *4. Adjust the short outer push-rods between the CS08=99s and the CS15 bellcranks so that the latter are **vertical when the control columns are vertical.* *When the wings are rigged the aileron movement should be 23.5=C2=BA up and 20=C2=BA down with full lateral **control column movement and both ailerons should be in their neutral positions together when the* *control columns are vertical.* My ailerons go up the required 23.5 deg against both stops but they don't go down the required 20 deg...not even close I would guess that they are about 15-17 down I have taken it to bits and put it together fiddled around but Im stumped. What I am I doing wrong? Might it be that the control columns should not be parallell in this case due to variation in the build.... thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 =========== =========== =========== =========== st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List MS - k">http://forums.matronics.com e - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:05 PM PST US From: AUVRAY Michel Subject: Re: Europa-List: Auto Pilot for Mono Hello Jerry, I use Dynon Autopilot since 2008. It is very good product, easy to install and configure. My configuration is D10A+AP74+SV32 pitch+SV32 ailerons. Have agood day Michel AUVRAY Le 25/06/2014 18:52, Jerry Rehn a crit : > > I am considering installing auto pilot. Is there a consensus on manufacture and any particular tips and tricks? > Thanks for input! > Jerry > Mono XS 914 > > Sent from my iPad > > --- Ce courrier lectronique ne contient aucun virus ou logiciel malveillant parce que la protection avast! 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