Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:16 AM - Re: Roll pin coming out of LG08S + bungee (John Heykoop)
2. 04:45 AM - Re: Re: Swiss Tony (Trevpond@aol.com)
3. 04:48 AM - Re: Roll pin coming out of LG08S + bungee (Pete Lawless)
4. 08:07 AM - Electric Fuel pump (Scudrunner)
5. 08:25 AM - Re: Electric Fuel pump (Kevin Challis)
6. 08:43 AM - Re: Electric Fuel pump (Scudrunner)
7. 12:46 PM - Re: Electric Fuel pump (Bud Yerly)
8. 06:14 PM - Re: Fitting a 100HP to Classic (Troy Maynor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Roll pin coming out of LG08S + bungee |
Hi John, to replace the bungee cord you have got a choice. Either remove the
engine and the firewall or do the job from underneath via the wheel well. I
replaced mine last year via the wheel well. It is a filthy job (particularl
y if you have been operating off grass) but it is quick and relatively easy.
Start by buying about 30 feet of 3/8" standard type bungee cord. That is a g
ood deal more than you are going to need once you have tensioned the cord, b
ut it makes the job easier if you have plenty of cord you can pull on.
Next use an engine hoist to lift the fuselage off the ground. It is also wor
th rigging up secondary supports via the spar tunnel and underneath the tail
, just in case anything goes wrong - you don't want the fuselage to come cra
shing down on top of you when you are pulling hard on the bungee cord.
Next you have to remove the wheel. Remember that the swinging arm will want t
o snap into its retracted position when the wheel is removed, so make sure t
hat the gear safety catch is engaged. Even so I felt very unsafe, so reachin
g over the top of the wheel I cut the bungee cord before actually removing t
he wheel.
Next remove the LG04 pin and fold the shock absorber assembly out of the way
(just secure it with a piece of string). You now have reasonably good acces
s to the bungee cord (it helps to have long arms) and it should be easy to r
emove the old cord.
You can now install the new bungee cord. I found that due to limited space b
etween the frame and my Singleton firewall it was fairly difficult to thread
through, so I attached some locking wire to the end of the bungee, and pull
ed the locking wire with a pair of pliers before grabbing the bungee cord.
In order to tension the bungee cord correctly you will have to attach tempor
ary weights to the swinging arm to simulate the weight of the wheel and its s
tub axles. I used a broomstick as a temporary axle from which I hung two bag
s of sand.
Hope this helps. Best of luck with this job!
Regards
John
XS mono G-JHKP
> On 6 Oct 2014, at 10:21, John Archer <77alembert@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> While changing the shock absorber on my mono wheel I noticed that the 6 mm
roll pin that actuates the flaps and outriggers via LG08S had worked it's w
ay out of it's hole by about 15 mm (see build manual 21 M-4). I was able to g
et a G clamp across the flange and push it back into position and it is a go
od fit with no play.
> I would however, like to ensure that this doesn't happen again. As the pi
n is hollow I was thinking of putting a 3 mm bolt through the pin with Nyloc
nuts and washers at each end. Would this be acceptable and has anyone else h
ad this problem?
>
> Changing the shock absorber increased prop clearance by 80 mm as the old "
red" one had become "squashed" over time. I had to use clamps to assist put
ting the M8 bolts and getting down to 79 MM between plates, this has made th
e suspension much harder than previously. I will have a completely differen
t aircraft to fly next time out!
>
> On another subject, how much of what diameter bungee is required for the m
ono wheel retraction system and above all, how do you go about replacing it?
>
> Regards
>
> John
> Mono 192
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 2
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I lost over =A310K on my deal for the kit, the deposit (50%) for the 914,
Full price for the Airmaster plus the costs for the rest of the aircraft
that
wasn't delivered. KW should have been jailed for what he did.
It's my opinion that the LAA should not use his pictures for the LAA
magazine and I intend to second Nev's proposal.
Trev
G-LINN
In a message dated 06/10/2014 22:12:24 GMT Daylight Time, c
aptainmarty@bellsouth.net writes:
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Martymason"
<captainmarty@bellsouth.net>
As one who was told personally by KW that the kit was enroute to Florida
and several other untruths, I would encourage all who can to deny him the
privilage to sell his photographs to do so.
Marty Mason
Kit 291
Paid for twice!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431586#431586
========================
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Roll pin coming out of LG08S + bungee |
Hi John
If you have a Classic then just remove the exhaust and the stainless
steel firewall over the tunnel in the engine bay and you have easy
access to change to bungee. Don't forget to check the tension BEFORE
reassembly! The gear should retract and drop with almost no effort.
Regards
Pete
On 07/10/14 10:15, John Heykoop wrote:
> Hi John, to replace the bungee cord you have got a choice. Either
> remove the engine and the firewall or do the job from underneath via
> the wheel well. I replaced mine last year via the wheel well. It is a
> filthy job (particularly if you have been operating off grass) but it
> is quick and relatively easy.
>
> Start by buying about 30 feet of 3/8" standard type bungee cord. That
> is a good deal more than you are going to need once you have tensioned
> the cord, but it makes the job easier if you have plenty of cord you
> can pull on.
>
> Next use an engine hoist to lift the fuselage off the ground. It is
> also worth rigging up secondary supports via the spar tunnel and
> underneath the tail, just in case anything goes wrong - you don't want
> the fuselage to come crashing down on top of you when you are pulling
> hard on the bungee cord.
>
> Next you have to remove the wheel. Remember that the swinging arm will
> want to snap into its retracted position when the wheel is removed, so
> make sure that the gear safety catch is engaged. Even so I felt very
> unsafe, so reaching over the top of the wheel I cut the bungee cord
> before actually removing the wheel.
>
> Next remove the LG04 pin and fold the shock absorber assembly out of
> the way (just secure it with a piece of string). You now have
> reasonably good access to the bungee cord (it helps to have long arms)
> and it should be easy to remove the old cord.
>
> You can now install the new bungee cord. I found that due to limited
> space between the frame and my Singleton firewall it was fairly
> difficult to thread through, so I attached some locking wire to the
> end of the bungee, and pulled the locking wire with a pair of pliers
> before grabbing the bungee cord.
>
> In order to tension the bungee cord correctly you will have to attach
> temporary weights to the swinging arm to simulate the weight of the
> wheel and its stub axles. I used a broomstick as a temporary axle from
> which I hung two bags of sand.
>
> Hope this helps. Best of luck with this job!
>
> Regards
> John
>
> XS mono G-JHKP
>
>
> On 6 Oct 2014, at 10:21, John Archer <77alembert@gmail.com
> <mailto:77alembert@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> While changing the shock absorber on my mono wheel I noticed that the
>> 6 mm roll pin that actuates the flaps and outriggers via LG08S had
>> worked it's way out of it's hole by about 15 mm (see build manual 21
>> M-4). I was able to get a G clamp across the flange and push it back
>> into position and it is a good fit with no play.
>> I would however, like to ensure that this doesn't happen again. As
>> the pin is hollow I was thinking of putting a 3 mm bolt through the
>> pin with Nyloc nuts and washers at each end. Would this be acceptable
>> and has anyone else had this problem?
>>
>> Changing the shock absorber increased prop clearance by 80 mm as the
>> old "red" one had become "squashed" over time. I had to use clamps
>> to assist putting the M8 bolts and getting down to 79 MM between
>> plates, this has made the suspension much harder than previously. I
>> will have a completely different aircraft to fly next time out!
>>
>> On another subject, how much of what diameter bungee is required for
>> the mono wheel retraction system and above all, how do you go about
>> replacing it?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> John
>> Mono 192
>> *
>>
>> D============================================
>> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> D============================================
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D============================================
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D============================================
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Electric Fuel pump |
My Classic Monowheel 1st flew in 1996, and I'm wondering if the facet electric
fule pump is now starting to show its age.
I have a fuel pressure guage that measures at the carb inlets and always test the
electric pump before starting the engine. I don't remember the units here and
now, but I get only a 20% deflection relative to the pressure I get from the
mechanical pump (engine running). But then I guess that the stationary mechanical
pump will restrict the fuel pressure with the engine stationary?
Anyway, I just wondered if anyone else has a fuel pressure guage similarly fitted
and can advise on what pressure they see from the facet only?
Thanks
Howard
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431605#431605
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel pump |
I get a higher pressure with the electric pump on and the engine stopped than
with just the engine running and no electric pump. Does that help?
Kevin Challis
> On 7 Oct 2014, at 16:07, Scudrunner <howardbrooksster@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> My Classic Monowheel 1st flew in 1996, and I'm wondering if the facet electric
fule pump is now starting to show its age.
>
> I have a fuel pressure guage that measures at the carb inlets and always test
the electric pump before starting the engine. I don't remember the units here
and now, but I get only a 20% deflection relative to the pressure I get from
the mechanical pump (engine running). But then I guess that the stationary mechanical
pump will restrict the fuel pressure with the engine stationary?
>
> Anyway, I just wondered if anyone else has a fuel pressure guage similarly fitted
and can advise on what pressure they see from the facet only?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Howard
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431605#431605
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel pump |
Thanks Kevin, that does suggest that my electric pump is on its way out!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431609#431609
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Fuel pump |
Howard,
Facet fuel pump required is the 40106 which delivers between 4 and 7 psi
depending on high flow or low flow, that is no restriction, high
restriction.
You should be seeing about 7 psi. Use a fuel pressure guage to assure
the sender is working properly.
Aircraft Spruce has them in stock: PN 40106 12 volt 4-7 Psi, 32gph and
will lift fuel at least 12 inches. Price about $37US.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Facet No. Volts PSI Max-Min GPH Fitting Size Lift Min. Dry Check
Valve Position Shut Off Valve Description Part Number Price
40106 12 7.0-4.0 32 1/8 - 27 INT 12" N N Facet Solid State Fuel
Pump 40106 $36.65
40106 12 7.0-4.0 32 1/8 - 27 INT 12" N N Facet Solid State Fuel
Pump 40106 $36.65
----- Original Message -----
From: Scudrunner<mailto:howardbrooksster@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2014 11:07 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Electric Fuel pump
<howardbrooksster@gmail.com<mailto:howardbrooksster@gmail.com>>
My Classic Monowheel 1st flew in 1996, and I'm wondering if the facet
electric fule pump is now starting to show its age.
I have a fuel pressure guage that measures at the carb inlets and
always test the electric pump before starting the engine. I don't
remember the units here and now, but I get only a 20% deflection
relative to the pressure I get from the mechanical pump (engine
running). But then I guess that the stationary mechanical pump will
restrict the fuel pressure with the engine stationary?
Anyway, I just wondered if anyone else has a fuel pressure guage
similarly fitted and can advise on what pressure they see from the facet
only?
Thanks
Howard
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431605#431605<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431605#431605>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting a 100HP to Classic |
Hi,
I second what Dave says about the starter. The heavy duty one that now comes on
the 912S hits the classic fwf mount.
An alternative to the soft start system that has worked fine for me for 4 years
is to wire the ACS start switch that I installed to where when you turn it to
the "Start" position one mag is grounded allowing the engine to only start on
one mag. The instant you release the switch both mags are on line. I've never
had any kick back with the small starter and a 4 year old battery. Thinking I
may change the battery this year even though it still spins up the engine fine.
It's the Odyssey 680 I believe.
FWIW
Troy Maynor
UK120
250 hours (slow year)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431636#431636
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