Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:10 AM - Re: Tie-down points (Bud Yerly)
2. 09:09 AM - Typical mass of paint? (Clive Sutton)
3. 11:03 AM - Fuselage join (William Daniell)
4. 12:28 PM - Re: Typical mass of paint? (graeme bird)
5. 01:16 PM - Re: Typical mass of paint? (jonathanmilbank)
6. 01:37 PM - Re: Typical mass of paint? (Clive Sutton)
7. 01:59 PM - Re: Typical mass of paint? (jonathanmilbank)
8. 02:32 PM - Re: Fuselage join (Fred Klein)
9. 02:56 PM - Re: Fuselage join (davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk)
10. 03:02 PM - Re: Fuselage join (William Daniell)
11. 08:36 PM - Re: Tie-down points (Timward)
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Subject: | Re: Tie-down points |
Rick,
The classic tie down is a challenge with the wing speed kit. My nose gear
frame is open on the bottom.
At airshows and cross country, I use the gear frame on the front and my tail
eye hook. Many airports have a cable laid for tie down and it is just a
short clip and go if you have a cargo tie down strap. If all the airport
has is single point tie down anchors in the ground, I put the airplane in
backwards, tie the nose gear frame down, then tie their wing ropes together
to the tail.
Jeff Behrens has a simple setup using the outer flap bracket and a 1/8 or so
aluminum strap tied to all three bolts and bent out at about a 30 degree
angle. The outboard cover would (if cut right), over the tie down.
His setup tied at the frame, tail, and both wings went through the tornado
at Sun n Fun without a hitch or scratch. All the trigear Europa's did fine
as they were into the wind.
Not much help if you sealed up your nose gear.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 9:40 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Tie-down points
>
> Hi all,
>
> My Europa (Classic tri gear with XS wings and FWF) has no obvious tie down
> points. POH indicates that the undercarriage should be used, but with the
> speed kit I can see challenges there. What to you all use?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436605#436605
>
>
>
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Subject: | Typical mass of paint? |
Can anyone tell me what painting added to the weight of their mono please? I appreciate
it might seem like a 'how long is a piece of string' question . . .
The amount and quality of the filling & sanding done so far seems to be reasonable/not
excessive and I'm planning to use 2-pack acrylic - applied by someone
who knows what they are doing with a/c painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436687#436687
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I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a result
sliding down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the difference is
slight.
What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze
halves? Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top of
sanded the gel coat?
thanks
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Typical mass of paint? |
but what's the point of the question, you have to paint it and you are going to
use the minimum; I must have used about 7 -8 ltrs of 2 pack base coat and similar
for top coat. Most of the weight of the can evaporates, probably a third
of it goes on the floor or through the fans.
--------
Graeme Bird
G-UMPY
Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W
Newby: 135 hours 32 months on the Mono
g(at)gdbmk.co.uk
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436698#436698
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Subject: | Re: Typical mass of paint? |
Excuse me if I set myself up to be shot down, but I vaguely recall from when my
Classic Mono got painted in 1996 that two-pack (the poisonous stuff which needs
clever breathing apparatus to be worn while spraying, or else you die) contains
no solvents.
I was given to understand that apart from any overspray, all of the weight of the
contents of the paint tins ends up on the aircraft. Hence the need for a skilled
person with the spray gun, which is why I paid an expert.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436699#436699
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Subject: | Re: Typical mass of paint? |
The point of my question is that ive got a prediction spreadsheet running to estimate
the empty weight and need to put something in for the paint. The purpose
of the spreadsheet is to help make pre-fit choices about instrumentation, battery
placement etc before being stuck with whatever drops out of the final weighing
and avoid having to add eg lead to achieve w&b.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436701#436701
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Subject: | Re: Typical mass of paint? |
It's impossible, I would suggest, to predict the final W & B with the best spreadsheets
that money can buy. If you're going to have a 912 pulling you through
the sky and you install much the same kit as most others, then the C of G will
almost take care of itself. I can't see any substitute for simply getting on
with it and doing the measurements at the end. I left myself with the option
at the end of placing the battery either in the engine bay or behind the seats
in my Classic, but maybe that option isn't so attractive in the XS. But then
again, why not? It's such an easy fix!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436703#436703
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Subject: | Re: Fuselage join |
> On Jan 6, 2015, at 11:03 AM, William Daniell
<wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a
result sliding down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the
difference is slight.
>
> What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze
halves? Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top
of sanded the gel coat?
WillI had the opposite problemi.e., my lower half was
proud, and problem solved by adding spacers at each cleco and thickening
the Redux bed. For your case, i=99d of course remove the gel coat
along the edge of the upper half and rough up the gel coat on the lower
half; I don=99t think it=99s necessary to remove the entire
gel coat in order to add the requisite filler. Perhaps others w/ more
knowledge than I will make other recommendations.
Fred
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Fuselage join |
William, You can of course stick a go fast stripe over the join line,
but if your 'amour propre' insists on a perfect finish then fill any low
areas and sand it all down to a perfect finish. You should in any case
sand all the gel coat surface down to complete matness without the
smallest bit of refective surface visible, to give the optimum key to
whatever paint system you plan to use. One word of warning on which: The
release agent used in the original gel coat mould is a strong allergy
inducer. Make very sure you have washed all gel coated surfaces very
thoroughly before you start sanding them and wear a good mask. You might
be totally immune to normal fibreglass dust but get caught out by the
gel coat dust which is a more sinister animal!
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
On 2015-01-06 22:31, Fred Klein wrote:
>> On Jan 6, 2015, at 11:03 AM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a result sliding
down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the difference is slight.
>>
>> What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze halves?
Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top of sanded the
gel coat?
>
> Will...I had the opposite problem...i.e., my lower half was proud, and problem
solved by adding spacers at each cleco and thickening the Redux bed. For your
case, i'd of course remove the gel coat along the edge of the upper half and
rough up the gel coat on the lower half; I don't think it's necessary to remove
the entire gel coat in order to add the requisite filler. Perhaps others w/
more knowledge than I will make other recommendations.
>
> Fred
>
Links:
------
[1] http://www.aeroelectric.com
[2] http://www.buildersbooks.com
[3] http://www.homebuilthelp.com
[4] http://www.mypilotstore.com
[5] http://www.mrrace.com
[6] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
[7] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[8] http://forums.matronics.com
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Fuselage join |
thanks...go faster stripe is a great idea.
As for gel coal thanks for warning ...wash with soap or solvent?
On Jan 6, 2015 5:59 PM, <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
> William, You can of course stick a go fast stripe over the join line,
> but if your 'amour propre' insists on a perfect finish then fill any low
> areas and sand it all down to a perfect finish. You should in any case sand
> all the gel coat surface down to complete matness without the smallest bit
> of refective surface visible, to give the optimum key to whatever paint
> system you plan to use. One word of warning on which: The release agent
> used in the original gel coat mould is a strong allergy inducer. Make very
> sure you have washed all gel coated surfaces very thoroughly before you
> start sanding them and wear a good mask. You might be totally immune to
> normal fibreglass dust but get caught out by the gel coat dust which is a
> more sinister animal!
>
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
> On 2015-01-06 22:31, Fred Klein wrote:
>
>
> On Jan 6, 2015, at 11:03 AM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a
> result sliding down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the
> difference is slight.
>
> What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze
> halves? Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top of
> sanded the gel coat?
>
> Will...I had the opposite problem...i.e., my lower half was proud, and
> problem solved by adding spacers at each cleco and thickening the Redux
> bed. For your case, i'd of course remove the gel coat along the edge of the
> upper half and rough up the gel coat on the lower half; I don't think it's
> necessary to remove the entire gel coat in order to add the requisite
> filler. Perhaps others w/ more knowledge than I will make other
> recommendations.
>
> Fred
>
> *
>
> ectric.com <http://ectric.com>
> ">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
> builthelp.com <http://builthelp.com>
> lotstore.com <http://lotstore.com>
> m
> .matronics.com/contribution <http://matronics.com/contribution>
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>
> ics.com <http://ics.com>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Tie-down points |
Happy New Year Everyone.
I have a Monowheel Classic and tie it down by securing the large main wheel and
tail wheel only. The outriggers should prevent the wings from lifting. Therefore
no tie down points are required on the wings.
Thoughts?
Just saw for the first time my aircraft flying from the ground after giving my
son a rating to fly it!
Wonderful sight and such a proud father.
Now there is a cheaper way for him to build up his hours!
Weather dependent of course!
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t@xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
> On 7/01/2015, at 4:09 am, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> Rick,
> The classic tie down is a challenge with the wing speed kit. My nose gear frame
is open on the bottom.
>
> At airshows and cross country, I use the gear frame on the front and my tail
eye hook. Many airports have a cable laid for tie down and it is just a short
clip and go if you have a cargo tie down strap. If all the airport has is single
point tie down anchors in the ground, I put the airplane in backwards, tie
the nose gear frame down, then tie their wing ropes together to the tail.
>
> Jeff Behrens has a simple setup using the outer flap bracket and a 1/8 or so
aluminum strap tied to all three bolts and bent out at about a 30 degree angle.
The outboard cover would (if cut right), over the tie down.
>
> His setup tied at the frame, tail, and both wings went through the tornado at
Sun n Fun without a hitch or scratch. All the trigear Europa's did fine as they
were into the wind.
>
> Not much help if you sealed up your nose gear.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Rick Moss" <Rkwmoss@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 9:40 AM
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Tie-down points
>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> My Europa (Classic tri gear with XS wings and FWF) has no obvious tie down points.
POH indicates that the undercarriage should be used, but with the speed
kit I can see challenges there. What to you all use?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436605#436605
>
>
>
>
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