Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:30 AM - Re: Stall Warning System installation (David Watts)
2. 12:55 AM - Re: Stall Warning System installation (spcialeffects)
3. 01:05 AM - Re: Re: Fuselage join (Pete Lawless)
4. 01:52 AM - Re: Re: Fuselage join (Karl Heindl)
5. 07:30 AM - Re: Stall Warning System installation (Scudrunner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning System installation |
Tony,
If you quickly flip through the Europa web information sheet on the Stall Warner
Installation you will find that the first half deals with the XS installation
and the second half deals with the Classic installation.
Dave Watts G-BXDY
> On 8 Jan 2015, at 05:38, tonyvaccarella <tony@weimagine.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> At the risk of sounding simple - I have a Europa Classic Wing that needs completion
and would like to know where to find information about installing the Stall
Warning on this wing.
>
> Information on the web has only shown stall warning installs for XS wings.
>
> Can anyone help please?
>
> Best regards,
> Tony Vaccarella
> Builder A011 (from USA)
> Sydney Aust
>
> --------
> Tony Vaccarella
> Mascot NSW 2020
> Sydney Australia
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436772#436772
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning System installation |
Hi Tony. When you go to the europa website click on the mod's tab and go into the
stall Warner mod, then like dave said it covers the XS install first and then
the classic. Is your wing all glassed up or are you able to work with the foam
block on the bench? I incorporated this mod while building the wings which
made it easier. Good luck, Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436776#436776
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage join |
Just as an extra precaution give the screws a good dose of WD40 or
similar before fitting then they come out easily once the glue has gone
off. I had mine in a pot pre dosed before I started the fit.
Pete
G-RMAC Classic #109
On 08/01/15 01:54, Bud Yerly wrote:
>
> Time for my two cents:
>
> Bob Berube introduced me to using the self tapping screws but caution
> is necessary.
>
> To fit the top I use US 3/32 inch clecos. This type of cleco does not
> pull through as easily since the lower flange is four layers. After
> fitting the top for the fourth time or more, sometimes I have to
> upgrade to 1/8 inch. We have probably close to 500 clecos so no big
> deal for us.
>
> For those using the British style temporary fastener:
> I will use washers with the British style fastener as the lip on these
> fasteners deteriorate the hole in fiberglass pretty quick. If I have
> to put on a washer, I have to prep the area, and I glue the washer on
> with super glue. Lasts a long time. Gluing is all about the prep. I
> wash the whole kit first with TSP or detergent to remove the release
> wax. Then I clean the joint with acetone and scotch brite. If you
> sand, and it makes dust, it's ready to glue. No dust on sanding, bad
> joint.
>
> Like Ron and many others, I will screw on my top on final, because I
> can put the screw in and pull down until the skins come to a nice
> fit. Don't pull the screw down hard and force the two skins to pull
> down so hard as to squeeze all the glue out. Nor do you want the
> screw to pull the outer skin away from the inner. It's a technique.
> Be careful. Screws are the same principle as the screw type temp
> fastener, which can be pulled down too tight as well.
>
> Technique:
> To get a nice fit, and get control of my joint, I open up my top side
> holes a bit to allow the screw to spin and not grip, and then allow
> the self tapping screw threads to bite into the lower so I can adjust
> the skin pull down with careful screw gun use...
>
> As for fit. I try to keep the sides level, but don't worry. Just
> fill it. The sides are flat on the kit, and I like to fill the sides
> then block a nice curvy rounded side. If the filler ever gets beyond
> 3/32 inch, consider putting a layer of 2 oz. glass over the filler.
> Peel ply and its ready for a bit more filler... No cracking. If you
> are worrying about your walkway area showing cracks around the wing
> fillet to skin, we lay one layer of carbon from just behind the wing
> spar out to the first forward rib to stiffen the skin, and to prevent
> cracks in the filler which is scary seeing cracks in your wing.
> Filler is a necessary evil in a composite airplane. Learn the
> technique. I started learning to fill by doing my wheel pants. I
> have found that nice wheel pants take as long to fill as the
> fuselage. All those curvy fillets are a pain.
>
> Have a happy new year you all.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2015 8:09 PM
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fuselage join
>
>> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>>
>> Hi Group
>>
>> As far as the fuse seam joint: "awe, just screw it"!
>>
>> I used Clecos for a gazillion on and offs, but screws that captured
>> very nice.
>>
>> I detailed my top bond on, could save a bunch of bullets in your foot:
>> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=35521
>> (3 pages)
>>
>> There are more notes than this so study pics and my notes. Here are a
>> few:
>> ** pay attention for need to trim sternpost (easy to overlook)
>> ** as I noted use enough fasteners, you can see recovery (I found out
>> when I cut vent hole)
>> ** my kit was missing foam and second layer of glass on the inboard
>> side, so I added foam and glass
>> ** My fin ribs fit terrible, so I mutilated and made them fit
>> ** poor fit starboard side corner fixed by "dolphin" repair
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Top bond on was a fun part of build! Enjoy.
>> Sincerely
>> Ron Parigoris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436762#436762
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage join |
Alternatively=2C don't put any oil on. Just turn c-clockwise 1/4 turn after
a few hours cure time. Even when fully cured=2C the screws will come out w
ithout any problem.Karl
> Date: Thu=2C 8 Jan 2015 09:05:03 +0000
> From: pete@lawless.info
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Fuselage join
>
>
> Just as an extra precaution give the screws a good dose of WD40 or
> similar before fitting then they come out easily once the glue has gone
> off. I had mine in a pot pre dosed before I started the fit.
>
> Pete
> G-RMAC Classic #109
>
> On 08/01/15 01:54=2C Bud Yerly wrote:
> >
> > Time for my two cents:
> >
> > Bob Berube introduced me to using the self tapping screws but caution
> > is necessary.
> >
> > To fit the top I use US 3/32 inch clecos. This type of cleco does not
> > pull through as easily since the lower flange is four layers. After
> > fitting the top for the fourth time or more=2C sometimes I have to
> > upgrade to 1/8 inch. We have probably close to 500 clecos so no big
> > deal for us.
> >
> > For those using the British style temporary fastener:
> > I will use washers with the British style fastener as the lip on these
> > fasteners deteriorate the hole in fiberglass pretty quick. If I have
> > to put on a washer=2C I have to prep the area=2C and I glue the washer
on
> > with super glue. Lasts a long time. Gluing is all about the prep. I
> > wash the whole kit first with TSP or detergent to remove the release
> > wax. Then I clean the joint with acetone and scotch brite. If you
> > sand=2C and it makes dust=2C it's ready to glue. No dust on sanding=2C
bad
> > joint.
> >
> > Like Ron and many others=2C I will screw on my top on final=2C because
I
> > can put the screw in and pull down until the skins come to a nice
> > fit. Don't pull the screw down hard and force the two skins to pull
> > down so hard as to squeeze all the glue out. Nor do you want the
> > screw to pull the outer skin away from the inner. It's a technique.
> > Be careful. Screws are the same principle as the screw type temp
> > fastener=2C which can be pulled down too tight as well.
> >
> > Technique:
> > To get a nice fit=2C and get control of my joint=2C I open up my top si
de
> > holes a bit to allow the screw to spin and not grip=2C and then allow
> > the self tapping screw threads to bite into the lower so I can adjust
> > the skin pull down with careful screw gun use...
> >
> > As for fit. I try to keep the sides level=2C but don't worry. Just
> > fill it. The sides are flat on the kit=2C and I like to fill the sides
> > then block a nice curvy rounded side. If the filler ever gets beyond
> > 3/32 inch=2C consider putting a layer of 2 oz. glass over the filler.
> > Peel ply and its ready for a bit more filler... No cracking. If you
> > are worrying about your walkway area showing cracks around the wing
> > fillet to skin=2C we lay one layer of carbon from just behind the wing
> > spar out to the first forward rib to stiffen the skin=2C and to prevent
> > cracks in the filler which is scary seeing cracks in your wing.
> > Filler is a necessary evil in a composite airplane. Learn the
> > technique. I started learning to fill by doing my wheel pants. I
> > have found that nice wheel pants take as long to fill as the
> > fuselage. All those curvy fillets are a pain.
> >
> > Have a happy new year you all.
> >
> > Best Regards=2C
> > Bud Yerly
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------
> > From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> > Sent: Wednesday=2C January 07=2C 2015 8:09 PM
> > To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fuselage join
> >
> >> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >>
> >> Hi Group
> >>
> >> As far as the fuse seam joint: "awe=2C just screw it"!
> >>
> >> I used Clecos for a gazillion on and offs=2C but screws that captured
> >> very nice.
> >>
> >> I detailed my top bond on=2C could save a bunch of bullets in your foo
t:
> >> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=35521
> >> (3 pages)
> >>
> >> There are more notes than this so study pics and my notes. Here are a
> >> few:
> >> ** pay attention for need to trim sternpost (easy to overlook)
> >> ** as I noted use enough fasteners=2C you can see recovery (I found ou
t
> >> when I cut vent hole)
> >> ** my kit was missing foam and second layer of glass on the inboard
> >> side=2C so I added foam and glass
> >> ** My fin ribs fit terrible=2C so I mutilated and made them fit
> >> ** poor fit starboard side corner fixed by "dolphin" repair
> >>
> >> Good luck.
> >> Top bond on was a fun part of build! Enjoy.
> >> Sincerely
> >> Ron Parigoris
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436762#436762
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning System installation |
One "gotcha" on this mod. I tried to retro install this and while "drilling/coring"
through the foam towards the leading edge I discovered that there was a conduit
in the way (running the wiring for the wing tip lights)! If I'd thought
it through, then I would have realised, but...
Howard [Embarassed]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436782#436782
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