---------------------------------------------------------- Europa-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 07/24/15: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:35 AM - Re: Camloc for cowling (stephan cassel) 2. 05:30 AM - Re: Camloc for cowling (Greg Fuchs) 3. 07:58 AM - Re: Camloc for cowling (AirEupora) 4. 09:31 AM - Re: Charging System (Alan Carter) 5. 11:28 AM - Re: Re: Camloc for cowling (William Daniell) 6. 01:05 PM - DOTH RAF Langham. How to shoot down aeroplanes (Bob Hitchcock) 7. 01:17 PM - Re: Re: Charging System (Greg Fuchs) 8. 02:22 PM - Re: Charging System (Alan Carter) 9. 03:02 PM - Re: Re: Charging System (Richard Holder) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:35:01 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Camloc for cowling From: stephan cassel Hi Will Yes and it works perfekt. You need to messure each point and use different sizes. Regards Stephan LN-STE (via mobile) ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:30:41 AM PST US From: "Greg Fuchs " Subject: RE: Europa-List: Camloc for cowling Similar to camloc, I used southco fasteners (on the upper to lower cowl only, since it will be removed often) as pointed out in mod 10405 by Nigel Charles (found on the Europa club website). They allow the cowling to install quickly. My fasteners didn't perectly match the shape of the bowl in the tinnerman washers. Possibly the shape changed over time. They will not 'quite' sit flat. I pounded the southco into the tinnerman with a hammer using a formed backing to give it more 'like a glove' fit. Washers or shims can be used on the receptacle to allow the same length fastener at all attachment points. They can be lost easily, since they are not anchored to the cowling when it is removed off the aircraft. Work however, they do (said Yoda). For those who use this mod, plan to lay plies to keep the two cowling flanges in line with each other as pointed out else-where (lower cowlings single flange sandwiches into upper cowling double flange). That way, the fasteners poking through the upper cowling don't have to reach far to grab the receptacle in the lower cowling. Reach far, they won't. (oh boy..must be tired) _____ From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Daniell Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 11:34 AM Subject: Europa-List: Camloc for cowling has anyone used camloc fasteners on the cowling? thanks Will William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:58:58 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Camloc for cowling From: "AirEupora" I used the Skybolt fasteners for my cowl. There are some things that I would do differently. The receptacles should be made to attach to a flat surface inside the cabin area. That means it needs to be built up so that the stud is flat against the cowling. These are made for aluminum that is 0.20 to 032 in thickness. Our cowls are thicker. I have had trouble keeping the Grommet in place because of the wear and alignment of the holes and studs. I have tried to re-enforce the area, but it only last for a while. The last couple of time I have glassed in an AN 970 washers, but then it takes a larger or thicker Grommet. The other thing I don't like is they were sold to me a water proof, well the leak. If I leave the aircraft out I tape the top cowl with some tape, if I remember to bring it with me. I do like the look and the quick release of the cowl. If I were to do it again I just might go with 10/32 screws. They are a whole lot cheaper. Rick Stockton N120EJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445152#445152 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:31:49 AM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Charging System From: "Alan Carter" Hello All. Having received a private mail on how to check the Regulator of the 914 using the two brown wires connecting to terminal G. With engine running states 15 to 20 VAC at idle, I am getting 13.5 v at 2000 rpm so below the 15. And at high rpm should be between 30 to 40 VAC , at 4000 rpm I was getting 26v so again below the 30. So with the above in mind, points to the Alternator rather than the Regulator, ????? You Comments Please. PS, On New Battery just installed, Aircrafts Panel voltmeter at cruise reads only 12.4 v never ever seen it at 13v Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445154#445154 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:28:23 AM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Camloc for cowling From: William Daniell Excellent, thanks very much William Daniell LONGPORT +57 310 295 0744 On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 9:57 AM, AirEupora wrote: > > I used the Skybolt fasteners for my cowl. There are some things that I > would do differently. The receptacles should be made to attach to a flat > surface inside the cabin area. That means it needs to be built up so that > the stud is flat against the cowling. These are made for aluminum that is > 0.20 to 032 in thickness. Our cowls are thicker. I have had trouble > keeping the Grommet in place because of the wear and alignment of the holes > and studs. I have tried to re-enforce the area, but it only last for a > while. The last couple of time I have glassed in an AN 970 washers, but > then it takes a larger or thicker Grommet. The other thing I don't like is > they were sold to me a water proof, well the leak. If I leave the aircraft > out I tape the top cowl with some tape, if I remember to bring it with me. > > I do like the look and the quick release of the cowl. If I were to do it > again I just might go with 10/32 screws. They are a whole lot cheaper. > > Rick Stockton > N120EJ > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445152#445152 > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:05:23 PM PST US From: Bob Hitchcock Subject: Europa-List: DOTH RAF Langham. How to shoot down aeroplanes Hi All I had a most enthralling experience on Thursday. Visited the old RAF Langh am Norfolk and discovered it's adjacent newly declassified dome from WW2. Us ed for training British, Dutch and American forces. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02rcd2x https://langhamdome.org The operator of the strip is not too keen on welcoming the "whole world", bu t "interesting" aircraft such as Europa aircraft and experienced pilots from the Europa club may come with PPR at their own risk. Landing fee and visit i s not cheap at =C2=A325,but worth it. A discounted rate possible for separate private groups of ten people ( I.e. f ive aircraft) The owner operator; Henry is a charismatic pilot/mechanic. Looks after a few of DeHavillands in the hangar. Afterward did some research. Howard is very m odest he worked on "Out of Africa" Moth and many participated in other films . Hope he won't be annoyed about revealing his role. https://vimeo.com/98004861 David Joyce suggested I organise a potential discounted DOTH. Caution: Unlicensed airfield: Concrete peri track 10/28, 700x15 surface OK b ut not perfect. I chose the Grass strip 600 x 18, 20 foot trees at threshold of 20. 100 foot mast on airfield. Have a good look at Google maps to orient ate. Was very well attended by people visiting by tourists visiting by car. Anyone interest? David Joyce Mono is coming. Any others? All subject to weat her. Regards Bob Hitchcock XS Mono ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:17:52 PM PST US From: "Greg Fuchs " Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Charging System Hi Alan, Just a quick statement: To me, the values you are getting might be typical to a working system that is at or past maximum load. If the whole panel is lit up with all avionics on, lights, etc. Try turning off many of your electrical loads to see if the voltages come up. If they don't, then possibly it could be the generator. I would make a guess that they don't fail often, so a few more tests would be warranted (I could give a few hints as to what I'd do, when the time comes). The wiring in it is all in series, so it would not have failed 'open'. That doesn't mean it doesn't have a short in one of the windings, or that the magnets have weakened, which could cause low readings in the AC output voltage. Note: If the aircraft panel voltmeter is correctly connected, that charge voltage is much too low, and will eventually discharge your battery. I would not feel comfortable flying with such a condition. In the meantime, to be good to your brand new battery, charge it up with a good automatic charger (if you haven't already). Hope this helps. Good luck. Regards, Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Carter Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 9:31 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Charging System --> Hello All. Having received a private mail on how to check the Regulator of the 914 using the two brown wires connecting to terminal G. With engine running states 15 to 20 VAC at idle, I am getting 13.5 v at 2000 rpm so below the 15. And at high rpm should be between 30 to 40 VAC , at 4000 rpm I was getting 26v so again below the 30. So with the above in mind, points to the Alternator rather than the Regulator, ????? You Comments Please. PS, On New Battery just installed, Aircrafts Panel voltmeter at cruise reads only 12.4 v never ever seen it at 13v Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445154#445154 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:22:09 PM PST US Subject: Europa-List: Re: Charging System From: "Alan Carter" Hi Greg. This is becoming a big problem, I can see the panel voltmeter move slightly as I increase power, but you are right its not maintaining my battery. With the volt meter across the battery at cruise power its only 12.8v. Now we come to fixing it, sodding built in intricate mag/alternator on the back of the engine, I was expecting a bolt on Alternator replacement unit, insert the shaft and tighten up the 4 bolts , JOB DONE, same as the a tyre change on bloody main wheels, have to unlock and unbolt the disc to change a tyre, Took me longer to do the wire locking than it did to fit the new tyre. WHY ?? Anybody repaired the Alternator on the 914. Regards . Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445165#445165 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:02:14 PM PST US Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Charging System From: Richard Holder On 24/07/2015 22:18, Alan Carter wrote: > > Hi Greg. This is becoming a big problem, I can see the > panel voltmeter move slightly as I increase power, but > you are right its not maintaining my battery. With the > volt meter across the battery at cruise power its only > 12.8v. Now we come to fixing it, sodding built in > intricate mag/alternator on the back of the engine, I > was expecting a bolt on Alternator replacement unit, > insert the shaft and tighten up the 4 bolts , JOB DONE, > same as the a tyre change on bloody main wheels, have > to unlock and unbolt the disc to change a tyre, Took me > longer to do the wire locking than it did to fit the > new tyre. WHY ?? > > Anybody repaired the Alternator on the 914. i am going to offer my 10 cents worth These problems are why you need to have an ammeter AND a voltmeter to give sufficient information. Ammeters can either show current in and out of the battery (with a -30 0 +30 type scale), or measure the current out of the alternator (0 +30 scale). In and out of the battery is more useful. And i go further and say that digital meters only sample maybe 5 times a second. You need analogue meters with pointers. Without my analogue ammeter I would not have known that my charging system was fluctuating from 2 to 10 amps on a 5 cycles per second basis. I tried 4 new rectifier/regulators and they were all the same. Apparently they had changed the design ! I put a Schicke regulator on and all was well. I did try a used but older R/R and it was fine as had been my original. Electrics are really simple but you have to go back to first principles and understand what is actually happening. The stator on the flywheel is very reliable. The wiring and R/R are not. I would do comprehensive checks on the wiring and the R/R (and maybe the rest of your electrics) befor eeven considering fiddling with the stator. Is the body of your R/R earthed ? Richard Holder aka anrman :-) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message europa-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Europa-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/europa-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/europa-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.