Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:25 AM - Re: Re: Electrics on a Europa. (Brian Davies)
2. 08:48 AM - Re;: Monowheel inner tubes (John Wigney)
3. 09:47 AM - Arblast PV 50 Prop. CS Motor, (Alan Carter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Electrics on a Europa. |
Alan,
You have some good advice from Bud but if you do not have a multimeter
or a wiring diagram it will be difficult to trouble shoot using normal
electrical processes. The alternative is to make a few basic checks
which can be done with no electrical knowledge or electrical test
equipment..
There is a possibility that the alternator supply is insufficient to
support the loads that you are applying. Based on previous field
experience the part that gives most trouble is the regulator. Most
owners don=99t change the firewall forward part of the electrical
system so the standard Rotax electrical diagram, available in their
manual, or the Europa Build Manual basic electrical diagram should give
you some guidance. The alternator supply should be protected by a large
fuse or circuit breaker. Track it down and check physically if it is
tripped/ blown. You don=99t need a meter for this. Then check
all of the connections to the regulator. They are automotive spade
connections, normally inside a plastic plug. Check all of the
connections are free of corrosion and are tight. Next check the earth
connection on the body of the regulator. Remove and clean the earth
connection. Next take a deep breath and buy a replacement regulator. If
it does not fix it you now have a spare for when yours does fail or you
can sell it to someone who has had a regulator failure and is desperate
for a replacement.
If you are still in trouble you will now need to become an aviation
electrical engineer and start proper trouble shooting as described by
many posters.
Good luck!
Regards
Brian Davies
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: 06 September 2015 00:17
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Electrics on a Europa.
Alan,
A good schematic is worth its weight in gold for troubleshooting.
Good advice from all on the charging. It should be about 13.7 volts at
5000 RPM below 15-18 amps draw.
I start by pulling all the circuit breakers on the ground. Measure the
bat voltage with a volt meter then turn on the master. Check which
components come on with the master ( those items not on CBs).
The master contactor can draw one amp. Look up your solenoid specs.
You need to use a VTVM or amp/ volt/ohm meter to check amp draw as you
flip on components.
Next, ensure your C or control voltage reads battery voltage. Look to
see your alternator to panel or battery contact is secure.
Then start pushing in CBs to assess. Make a list of the components on
each of your CBs and their draw if you can. As an example, a turn and
slip going bad can be troublesome as the flag doesn't show but it is
burning up amps instead of running at less than an amp.
In my opinion, the only way to check the health of your electrical
system in flight is with a volt and amp meter. You may want to invest
in one. Westach makes a nice combo instrument.
Keep plugging away you'll find the cause.
Bud Yerly,
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
On Aug 31, 2015 10:43 AM, Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net> wrote:
<alancarteresq@onetel.net>
Hi , Bob, Peter.
I have no low voltage warning light just a voltmeter,
The problem is that in cruise my with all my panel working, that's the
T/Co- odinator, TCU, FlyDat Engine inst,, 1 Fuel Pump, 1 Strobe Lt,
Skyforce GPS, Transponder, Radio,
I get about 12.1 volts showing,
Pull all the CBs and you get a little more showing.
Now if you switch the MASTER SWITCH OFF, it fly's up to 13.1 volts.
I take it now that the Alternator has taken over the supply to the fuel
pump
provided its turned ON.
So with the Master switch off and 13+ volts coming out it does not look
like being the Alternator or Rectifier, wear is the power going ?????
12v is not enough to maintain a full battery
Have bought a new battery ,but the old one is as good as the new one, so
it not the battery.
Alan
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09/06/15
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re;: Monowheel inner tubes |
Hi Paul,
I found an alternative at
http://www.gaithersburgequipment.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=tube+15x6.00-6&Submit=Search
Relatively inexpensive at $7.14.
Cheers, John
ORIGINAL MESSAGE
From: "Paul McAllister"<paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Monowheel inner tubes
Hello Everyone,
I was greeted at the hanger today by the sight of a flat tire so I went to my usual
online source (Wicks) and they no longer seem to stock the inner tubes I
need.
Could anyone tell me where they source them from these days?
Thanks, Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Arblast PV 50 Prop. CS Motor, |
Hi All.
My PV50 CS motor failed in the climb out, just maintained 80 kts, high nose attitude
but made it home.
After landing found power reaching the motor, 11.9 volts, so its the motor that's
failed.
Q1. Where do I get a new PV 50 CS electric motor from.
Q2. Which bit is the motor, or how do you take the motor out,
Long shaft with motor on the end of it, this piece of shaft with motor on it is
secured with three small bolts to the prop, is this the complete unit to be
replaced,
OR is it the little black motor on the end of the shaft only needs replacing.
ie unsolder the two wire, and with a pair of grips turn and unscrew the motor
off the end of the Shaft.
Alan
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