Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:18 AM - Re: Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB (Peter Jeffers)
2. 01:21 AM - Re: Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB (Peter Jeffers)
3. 01:49 AM - Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB (Glenn Perry)
4. 02:19 AM - Re: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB (jonathanmilbank)
5. 03:24 AM - Re: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB (Peter Jeffers)
6. 07:09 AM - Re: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB (Scudrunner)
7. 07:53 AM - AW: Re: Europa-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/14/16 (A. Buess Aviatik)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB |
Hi Glenn,
If in doubt refer to sectional drawing of your assembly in the EUROPA Build
manual page 29M-9 issue 1 available either in your build manual or on line
from EUROPA AIRCRAFT.
It shows the internal bolt that people are referring you to and which is
probably why you are experiencing difficulties.
Hope this helps
Pete Jeffers [LAA Inspector to the Europa Club]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Rehn
Sent: 15 September 2016 20:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB
Did you remove the bolt that runs thru the middle of the stub axles?
Just a thought.
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Glenn Perry <gfhperry@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all.
>
> Thanks for a great forum! The amount of great information going around is
staggering.
>
> I bought a Classic monowheel about a year ago. I want to change the tire
as it appears to be very old. On trying to remove the stub axles, I found
them immovable. I have tried all manner of persuasion with no luck,
including a purpose made tool that forces two sharp wedges under the flange
from opposite sides. It can apply considerable force. Still to no avail. All
I can think is that the axle tube has rusted solid into the stub axles due
to NO maintenance by previous owner. Does any one have some ideas?
>
> Thanks, Glenn Perry
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB |
Hi Glenn,
Just one further bit of clarification re my last posting. The bolt is
described as a socket head CAP screw M6 X 150.
Pete Jeffers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Rehn
Sent: 15 September 2016 20:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Removing a Monowheel G-DLCB
Did you remove the bolt that runs thru the middle of the stub axles?
Just a thought.
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Glenn Perry <gfhperry@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all.
>
> Thanks for a great forum! The amount of great information going around is
staggering.
>
> I bought a Classic monowheel about a year ago. I want to change the tire
as it appears to be very old. On trying to remove the stub axles, I found
them immovable. I have tried all manner of persuasion with no luck,
including a purpose made tool that forces two sharp wedges under the flange
from opposite sides. It can apply considerable force. Still to no avail. All
I can think is that the axle tube has rusted solid into the stub axles due
to NO maintenance by previous owner. Does any one have some ideas?
>
> Thanks, Glenn Perry
>
>
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB |
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the responses. Sorry, I should have mentioned, I removed the three bolts
on the brake disk side, plus the brake calliper, the single bolt on the other
side as well as the long through bolt that fits from stub axle to stub axle.
Still no movement. This aircraft spent a lot of time in a very wet area of
Wales.
Thanks once again for all advice.
Glenn Perry
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB |
Hi Glen,
There must be several mono swinging arms (main wheel forks) around, because several
owners including me have converted to tri-gear. Mine is probably in a scrapyard
because I left it with Nev Eyre and he no longer occupies his former workshop.
I know someone else who got his conversion done by Nev at Nev's house, but I've
no idea what happened to that swinging arm either.
It shouldn't take too long to get an offer, if you put out an SOS on Matronics
and a few other websites such as AFORS.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460518#460518
Message 5
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| Subject: | Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB |
Sorry Glenn,
Seems you will need a lot of patience and WD-40.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Perry
Sent: 16 September 2016 09:49
Subject: Europa-List: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the responses. Sorry, I should have mentioned, I removed the
three bolts on the brake disk side, plus the brake calliper, the single bolt
on the other side as well as the long through bolt that fits from stub axle
to stub axle. Still no movement. This aircraft spent a lot of time in a very
wet area of Wales.
Thanks once again for all advice.
Glenn Perry
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Removing a mono wheel G-DLCB |
While I hesitate to recommend in this application, when messing around with old
motorbikes, I've had success with heat cycling the components (talking about
a blowlamp - I think the thermal expansion crushes the corrosion between the components
into dust/breaks the bond?) and if it were a bike wheel, I'd try a very
long bolt/rod fed through from the opposite side at a bit of an angle followed
by lots of hammer tapping (easier to push something out than pull?). Obviously
there are also many proprietary dismantling fluids, though I've had less
success there (too impatient no doubt). Hope that helps.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460523#460523
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/14/16 |
Tony,
You might find Duralac at your local boat store.
Regards, Alfred
=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2
=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8
=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8=C2=A8
Alfred Buess
CH-3700 Spiez, Switzerland
Europa XS HB-YKI, Ercoupe 415-E N94804
Von: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] Im Auftrag von GRAHAM
SINGLETON
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 15. September 2016 13:13
An: europa-list@matronics.com
Betreff: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/14/16
Tony
I use Duralac, obtainable in UK from LAS, <https://www.lasaero.com/>
https://www.lasaero.com/
Might be issues shipping it, it's considered hazardous.
Graham
On Thursday, 15 September 2016, 9:43, Sky
<richard.churchill-coleman@sky.com
<mailto:richard.churchill-coleman@sky.com> > wrote:
Tony
I believe Duralac chromate paste is what you need.
Richard CC
On 15 Sep 2016, at 09:06, Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com
<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> > wrote:
Gidday,
I have stainless screws holding my Nav lights onto wingtip mountings,
that mate with standard nut plates that are rivetted in place with two
opposing wings on the body of the entrapped nut. I believe they would be
dissimilar metals so I looked for my Hermetite Golden, to find the tube
cap split, air had invaded, and it was useless. The product is no longer
available, so I am wondering if anyone is using something to protect
against bi-metallic corrosion, electrolysis I think k is what it is
called, and if so it's name and where I might get it.
Thanks in hope.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On Thursday, 15 September 2016, Europa-List Digest Server
<europa-list@matronics.com <mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> > wrote:
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