Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:49 AM - Re: mono to trigear conversion (clivesutton)
2. 02:03 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Exhaust Spring Clip Faliure... (clivesutton)
3. 02:26 AM - Re: Re: Airmaster prop problems. (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
4. 09:18 AM - Re: mono to trigear conversion (Scudrunner)
5. 11:40 AM - Re: Landing a mono on 400m in the middle of Ukrainian winter (Roland)
6. 11:44 AM - Re: mono to trigear conversion (jonathanmilbank)
7. 11:45 AM - Re: mono to trigear conversion (Roland)
8. 12:05 PM - Re: Re: mono to trigear conversion (Bob Harrison)
9. 08:18 PM - Re: Re: Mono undercarriage lubrication? (Bud Yerly)
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| Subject: | Re: mono to trigear conversion |
Hello Bob - i am particularly interested in your comments about the configurable
UC on G-PTAG. Does it follow that for a few hours of work (and possibly a re-weigh/inspection)
G-PTAG can still be configured as either? And you comments
about never flying again as a mono - could you clarify: it cannot ever fly as
a mono (due to weight etc), or that YOU would never fly it again as a mono?
I guess that configuring the a/c for both UC types would come with a weight penalty
- do you have an idea of what that would be? Finally, did you have an issues
with the bonded-in frame in the tunnel re: accommodating both UC configurations?
Please let me know Clive S G-YETI, 99% complete
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Exhaust Spring Clip Faliure... |
If i may chip in with my two-pennarth re: exhaust spring failures, my learning
from a string of failures over about 200hrs was 1) always use the newer stainless
new springs 2) insert a suitable piece of silicone rubber tubing down the
spring and hold in place with high-temp RTV - to increase damping/reduce vibration
3) run wirelock down through this tube to retain the spring if it does break
[as Buds advice] and 4) avoid installing or removing springs by levering the
'hook' on or off using a screwdriver - this action can damage the surface of
the inside of the hook and initiate fatigue cracking. Much easier to use a
length of wire-locking wire (perhaps 200mm) with a loop formed at both ends (one
over the spring 'hook' and the other on the shaft of a screwdriver) to provide
a means of extending the spring and installing/removing it
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| Subject: | Re: Airmaster prop problems. |
I have limited experience of the Whirlwind blades but they do seem to be mu
ch nicer than the Warp Drive ones, which are much too stiff and cause a lot
of vibration as a result.The aerodynamics also are more optimized for the
performance the Europa is capable of. Warp Drive seem to have changed littl
e from the original target market of weight shift microlights.All my opinio
n of course so don't forget the salt!Graham
On Friday, 10 February 2017, 8:58, Roland <schmidtroland@web.de> wrote:
I can strongly recommend to get in contact with Martin from Airmaster - he
is VERY helpful.
My Europa is at the Belgian Airmaster dealer Oyen CTR just now to get its n
ew Whirlwind blades installed :-) Dirk Oyen also knows the complete propell
er system in depth.
Good luck with the troubleshooting.
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS TG 914
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S -
WIKI -
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=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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| Subject: | Re: mono to trigear conversion |
I've always assumed that you "need" at least the 912S for a trigear? The 80hp UL
just not man enough to overcome the increased rolling resistance on take off?
I'm talking typical UK 500m grass farm strip here, not 2000m of paved US municipal
airport!
(80HP, mono classic)
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| Subject: | Re: Landing a mono on 400m in the middle of Ukrainian winter |
Now I can imagine, what you wrote about! I guess you have the fastest bird on this
tiny airfield :-)
Happy landings,
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS TG 914
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| Subject: | Re: mono to trigear conversion |
Do it! After more than 15 years with the mono and having seen two friends who share
my aircraft lose directional control on landing, ground-looping and damaging
the Airmaster prop which twice had to be sent to NZ for inspection and new
blades, I got the conversion to tri-gear done 3 years ago.
The reduction in stress for all in our group was palpable. No more worries about
changes in wind direction when operating from tar runways. Bliss!!!
I have over 1000 hours of my 21.5k hours flying career in Piper Cub, Harvard (AT6
Texan) and including about 650 hours in my Europa as a mono. If it had been
fitted with conventional t/w undercarriage with differential brakes, I'd never
have decided to convert to tri-gear.
Very soon after the u/c conversion it became apparent that 80hp wasn't enough to
overcome grass safely on a calm or light wind day and heavy. Swapping to the
912S does the trick and I would recommend a set of Nev Eyre's cowls for their
excellent cooling. He also provides a superb engine bearer frame which is simpler
and stronger than the XS version, which needs both the Rotax ring bearer
and an intermediate frame to connect to the undercarriage frame.
I solemnly promise that you won't regret doing it.
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| Subject: | Re: mono to trigear conversion |
With my average flying skills I didn't even consider to buy a Monowheel after Andy
Draper took me up for a ride in the factory demonstrator G-GBXS.
However I also didn't even consider building one as well with my less than average
mechanical skills.
I just enjoy flying my Trigear and can well live with the little shortcomings in
weight and speed :-)
Roland
XS TG 914
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| Subject: | Re: mono to trigear conversion |
Hi! Clive/all
G-PTAG has never flown as a mono. The insurance claims for ground loopers
are a serious indicator to take notice of. Any weight increase for the
combined issues are not an issue since the mono wheel is replaced by the
nose wheel gear with a forward C of G anyway . OK the overall weight is
increased but I have a long range tank with 9 gallons making my max
passenger seat load only 39 lbs. The aircraft handles that when flown with
respect. The flap drive is by motor switch but the outrigger machinery /push
rods are removed. The main running gear sockets are glassed into
strengthening plywood cruciforms and the fuselage needs suspended over a
quide angle iron against which the axle stubs are clamped.
The whole assembly strengthens the design of the fuselage just aft of the
overlapping wing spars.
It easy to get too much toe in on the axle stubs which once set can not be
corrected committing to excessive tyre wear to make your eyes water. The
setting up procedure does not seem to allow for loaded deflections so that
when loaded the toe in corrects but as landing is effected the outside of
the wheels are first to skid contact. The tyres need to be watched and
turned round to get efficient tyre wear. Of course to be able to land on
grass always improves this issue .
The flap extension indicator is ideally sorted by a transfer attached to the
wing and flap viewable over the pilots left shoulder.
I'm sorry but haven't further time to discuss these pro's and con's.
Other than to say "go for it" you won't regret it IMHO . (there's those who
have done ground loops and those who have yet to do it on mono )
Regards
Bob Harrison.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of clivesutton
Sent: 14 February 2017 09:49
Subject: Europa-List: Re: mono to trigear conversion
--> <clive.maf@googlemail.com>
Hello Bob - i am particularly interested in your comments about the
configurable UC on G-PTAG. Does it follow that for a few hours of work (and
possibly a re-weigh/inspection) G-PTAG can still be configured as either?
And you comments about never flying again as a mono - could you clarify: it
cannot ever fly as a mono (due to weight etc), or that YOU would never fly
it again as a mono? I guess that configuring the a/c for both UC types
would come with a weight penalty - do you have an idea of what that would
be? Finally, did you have an issues with the bonded-in frame in the tunnel
re: accommodating both UC configurations? Please let me know Clive S
G-YETI, 99% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466167#466167
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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| Subject: | Re: Mono undercarriage lubrication? |
Jim and Jon,
As you said Jim, there isn't much written but corrosion control is a continuous
battle as is wear.
I have always used Corrosion X Aviation on steel I wish to keep bare. Problem
is you have to do it fairly often. A couple times a year is recommended on exposed
parts. It does not leave a waxy film, so it is less messy.
Just like you Jim, I use a Lithium type spray lube with teflon as I can't reach
anything in that mono wheel well easily. Anything that pivots or rotates gets
a shot. Corrosion X is a lube but I like something thicker I can see that sticks.
Wheel bearings I pack in Aeroshell 22 including the Airmaster prop so I only need
one grease. However consult with Timken bearings and Airmaster product literature
for other recommended greases for different temperatures and or wet conditions.
Any brass or oil lite bushing gets straight machine oil or a thin spray of the
white lithium.
As you know I do a 25 hour, so I wash the airplane, fly it to dry it off, pull
the stabs, lube the stab tube and fittings with Aeroshell 22 and squirt Corrosion
X into the tube where it rusts on the end. Corrosion X on the pins and a
drop of oil on the throttle pivot clamps. Your idea of anti seize isn't a bad
idea due to the dissimilar metals.
All hinges get a thin machine oil at a minimum and on annual get a thorough lube
with Corrosion X. All MW type bearings get a drop of oil. Internal MWs get
oil on the annual.
The mono wheel and spark plugs get anti seize on install. The mono LG25 and 26
should have anti seize in my opinion or you may not be able to get them free
when doing a tire change in the field.
At the 10 year point, the MW4 and 5 can be lubricated by unscrewing them and putting
a dab of grease in the threaded hole and screw them back in and listen for
the grease to squeeze out as there is a small hole just for that in the base.
Then wipe the excess off. Normally just a bit of light weight oil every year
is enough though. I'm in Florida and it is a corrosion nightmare down here,
so I lube often.
Don't forget to keep the prop flange free of corrosion and the engine needs some
TLC also. Keep up on those steel screws which corrode without some protection.
The turbo gets penetrating oil and cycled a few times as it always gets squeaky
around 25 hours.
You Classic owners, your exhaust system has stainless upper tubes and plane steel
on the lower. Consider using exhaust paint or header paint on the lower muffler
to prevent rust through.
AC 43 is my bible, but as you all know, everyone has a better idea. As for me,
ANY LUBE is better than none. The same was the advice from John and Roger.
Grease on bearings and oil on the rest.
Avoid off the shelf WD 40 general purpose squirt oil as it is designed for WATER
DISPLACEMENT and as a light weight lube but it does wash off easily and seems
to actually clean the part so it rusts better. WD 40 products do make lubricants
for many applications. Consult their website.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of h&jeuropa
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 8:26 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mono undercarriage lubrication?
Jon,
I was hoping Bud or Nev or Nigel would reply to this post as they have a lot of
experience. The manual doesn't provide much instruction about lubrication.
What we have found is that most moving parts require lubrication. We use a spray
lubricant purchased at a DIY store that supposedly leaves a teflon barrier
for most places including those swing arm bushes. We also use it on all hinges,
door mechanism, shoot bolts, rod ends and bearings (these last two probably
are unnecessary since they should be lubed and sealed for life). We use a heavy
anti seize paste on sliding connections, especially the torque tubes into
the tailplanes and the front and rear pins on the wings. We also lube all pip
pins with anti seize. It makes a mess but it is easy to disassemble next time!
We installed door locks and we lube them with lock lube, a graphite lube
available at DIY stores.
Hope this helps.
Jim
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