Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - Re: Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help (Alex Kaarsberg)
2. 06:22 AM - Re: Instuments Misreading (willydewey)
3. 07:00 AM - Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help (h&jeuropa)
4. 07:15 AM - Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help (Vlodek9)
5. 09:32 AM - Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help (Vlodek9)
6. 09:32 AM - Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help (Vlodek9)
7. 01:46 PM - Re: Throttle cables (Kelvin Weston)
8. 03:18 PM - Re: Re: Throttle cables (ami-mcfadyean@talktalk.net)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help |
The areas you mentioned of the fuselage, that have a web-like appearance could
be caused by shrinking paint/filler, or in the worst case, by impact damage to
the sandwich leading to the collapse of the thin foam core.
For this case, there are instructions in the mail list somewhere.
A simple and effective way to look through it is to do just that, with a strong
(cool) light placed on the inside of the fuselage.
Enjoy,
Alex Kaarsberg
> On 18 Nov 2017, at 18:10, Vlodek9 <rv9a2000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm attaching a pic of a snapped off pice of what I think is the filler. I do
believe that this is the case in most if not all of the bubbles that are on
the wing.
>
> I want to thank everyone that replied so far. You guys gave me allot to think
about and yes, depending on what I find once I open all the bubbles, I may decide
to take it to a professional.
>
> However, I am still interested in what materials (filler, resin, etc) are suggested
for working with as it pertains to the Europa. I would like to learn about
this stuff and unfortunately the best way I learn is hands on and by making
mistakes. Not on the airplane in this case, but practicing on the "bench".
>
> So if anyone does have experience with a certain resin, filler, etc that he/she
would recommend, please let me know the brand/type/manufactures and I'll start
my research/learning.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475196#475196
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1275_1_805.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Instuments Misreading |
Hi Tony and Pete
I have solved the problem. It was the EIS that had gone out of SYNC
REsetting that has solved the problem
Thanks for your suggestions
Bill Dewey
--------
Give a wise man knowledge and he will be yet wiser
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475306#475306
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help |
Mike Duane has given you the Aircraft Spruce part numbers for flox and microspheres
and both have their place. But read the factory manual and understand the
difference of microspheres (Q-Cel) and expancel. They are different materials
and have different uses.
Also be aware that the resin to hardener ratio in the manual is not for Aeropoxy.
In the UK Ampreg was supplied. In the US Aeropoxy was supplied. Aeropoxy
ratio is 100:27 by weight and 3 to 1 by volume.
Jim Butcher
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475307#475307
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Subject: | Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help |
Thank you sir. I was eyeballing this for a while and thought that this may do
the job. With your confirmation, I feel confident to place my order and get started.
Thank you again.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475308#475308
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Subject: | Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help |
OK, quick summery, lets see if I got this right.
The Q-Cel is primarily used as a micro (slurry for filling foam, dry for dings
before lay-up). But, it can be used as a final finish.
Expancel can be considered as an alternative or primarily as a final finish only.
(Per CBM1)
SO per CBM 37-3
I would use the Q-Cel (or the 3M Glass) to fill in any dips/dents on the surface
of the cloth. Then sand it down to a point where I see the fiberglass cloth/weave
and create a smooth even surface all the way across.
Only then I would use thermoplastic polymer microsphe res (NOT GLASS) or aka Expancel
as the final finishing filler. Assuming that I'm not using Q-Cel as the
final filler.
Assuming that my above understanding is correct and I would purchase the 3M Glass
Bubble from Aircraft Spruce, then I also have to purchase the Expancel (or
other thermoplastic polymer microspheres) as the final filler before paint. Based
on the fact that the 3M is glass.
Please confirm if my understanding is correct.
One other thing that Im curious about. Per the attached pic of the pice I snapped
off, I concluded that in this case, the bond between the cloth and filler
has failed. However, based on what I have read so far, I'm a bit taken back by
the thickness of the filler that snapped off. It is way thicker than what is
suggested in the manual, as I read it.
Do you guys agree or is that normal?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475314#475314
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Resins, faring compounds, etc, Need help |
OK, quick summery, lets see if I got this right.
The Q-Cel is primarily used as a micro (slurry for filling foam, dry for dings
before lay-up). But, it can be used as a final finish.
Expancel can be considered as an alternative or primarily as a final finish only.
(Per CBM1)
SO per CBM 37-3
I would use the Q-Cel (or the 3M Glass) to fill in any dips/dents on the surface
of the cloth. Then sand it down to a point where I see the fiberglass cloth/weave
and create a smooth even surface all the way across.
Only then I would use thermoplastic polymer microsphe res (NOT GLASS) or aka Expancel
as the final finishing filler. Assuming that I'm not using Q-Cel as the
final filler.
Assuming that my above understanding is correct and I would purchase the 3M Glass
Bubble from Aircraft Spruce, then I also have to purchase the Expancel (or
other thermoplastic polymer microspheres) as the final filler before paint. Based
on the fact that the 3M is glass.
Please confirm if my understanding is correct.
One other thing that Im curious about. Per the attached pic of the pice I snapped
off, I concluded that in this case, the bond between the cloth and filler
has failed. However, based on what I have read so far, I'm a bit taken back by
the thickness of the filler that snapped off. It is way thicker than what is
suggested in the manual, as I read it.
Do you guys agree or is that normal?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475313#475313
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Throttle cables |
Hi Richard
Attached are pictures of my throttle box.
I found the original design less than satisfactory and made the following changes:
a) Bolt is clamped to box with a large washer either side of the box, a spacer
tube and a nut with Loctite to stop rotation.
b) I made two aluminium plates, shaped to fit the box. These stop any rotation
and provide a good flat surface for the nylon washers - 2 each side of the lever.
Have not tested in anger yet by it has a really smooth action and the friction
is easily adjusted to counter the carb spring by tightening the stiff nut.
More importantly, despite many, many operations of the lever back and forwards,
the friction never changes.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475335#475335
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_3_190.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_2_193.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_888.jpg
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Throttle cables |
You might want to impregnate the exposed elements of the throttle cables with resin.
This stiffens them and reduces the chances of buckling in compression when
the throttle is opened more quickly than the carb springs can pull.
Duncan Mcf.
----Original Message----
From: kelv@kdweston.biz
Subj: Europa-List: Re: Throttle cables
Hi Richard
Attached are pictures of my throttle box.
I found the original design less than satisfactory and made the following changes:
a) Bolt is clamped to box with a large washer either side of the box, a spacer
tube and a nut with Loctite to stop rotation.
b) I made two aluminium plates, shaped to fit the box. These stop any rotation
and provide a good flat surface for the nylon washers - 2 each side of the lever.
Have not tested in anger yet by it has a really smooth action and the friction
is easily adjusted to counter the carb spring by tightening the stiff nut.
More importantly, despite many, many operations of the lever back and forwards,
the friction never changes.
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=475335#475335
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_3_190.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_2_193.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/throttle_box_888.jpg
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