Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:21 AM - Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions (Thomas Theron)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions (Nigel Graham)
3. 06:15 AM - Europa Club Membership expired (Greg Fuchs)
4. 06:56 AM - Re: Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions (Thomas Theron)
5. 08:00 AM - =?utf-8?Q?Re:__Re:_Bob_Berube_Taildragger_Plans/Instructions? ()
6. 09:00 AM - Re: Europa Club Membership expired (h&jeuropa)
7. 09:01 AM - Alt Light Flickers (h&jeuropa)
8. 09:02 AM - Re: Europa Club Membership expired (Nigel Graham)
9. 10:11 AM - Re: Europa Trigear with Rotax 914 running out of steam at FL20 (h&jeuropa)
10. 11:02 AM - Re: Re: Europa Club Membership expired (Greg Fuchs)
11. 11:32 AM - Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cylindrical0 shaft (Christoph Both)
12. 12:27 PM - Re: Alt Light Flickers (Greg Fuchs)
13. 12:32 PM - Re: Europa Trigear with Rotax 914 running out of steam at FL20 (Roland)
14. 01:07 PM - Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli (Patrick Tunney)
Message 1
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Subject: | Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions |
Good day Gents,
Does anyone perhaps have some instructions or plans for Bob Berube's
taildragger conversion?
Thanks,
--------
Real Men Fly Homebuilts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479588#479588
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Subject: | Re: Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions |
Here you go Thomas.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479591#479591
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/berube_taildragger_instructions_178.pdf
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Subject: | Europa Club Membership expired |
I got a notice that my Club membership was expired, but I was on the
automatic paypal renewal plan, which has worked now for 3 or 4 years. Just
yesterday, I verified the renewal information was still there in PP. Anyone
else have this happen?
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Bob Berube Taildragger Plans/Instructions |
Thank you Kindly Nigel!
Regards,
--------
Real Men Fly Homebuilts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479594#479594
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Subject: | Re: utf-8?Q?Re:_Europa-List:_Re:_Bob_Berube_Taildragger_Plans/Instructions? |
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Subject: | Re: Europa Club Membership expired |
Greg,
I had the same problem. My renewal is set for April 24 and in fact it was taken
from Pay Pal on that date. What is the date for your auto renewal?
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479597#479597
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Subject: | Alt Light Flickers |
The alt light (its a LED, not incandescent) on my Rotax 914 (over 900 hours) has
started to flicker even when at cruise (5000 rpm). It has often flickered when
at low rpm and it always turns full on when the engine is not running. I
have two Hall amp sensors but I can only display one at a time. At cruise, the
amps being delivered by the Rotax system are about 8 to 10 which I what I expect
given the loads turned on. At cruise the amps measured at the battery are
roughly 0, the indication will vary a little from +1 or 2 to 1 or 2 which I
take to be instrument error. The bus voltage is around 13.3 prior to engine
start. After start it slowly climbs to about 14.4 after 20-30 minutes of cruise.
The aircraft is wired in accordance with AeroElectric Z-16. The battery is an
EarthX ETX680 and its monitoring circuit does not show any problem. I switched
from lead acid to EarthX ETX36 in 2014 and in March 2017 changed to ETX 680C.
Ive only had this problem recently. Everything was normal at first after installing
the ETX680C.
In 2014 I added external diodes to supplement the original Ducatti (PN 343620)
regulator/rectifier and a few months later I replaced that Ducatti R/R as the
alt light was illuminating while operation seemed normal. The replacement was
the later model Ducatti (PN 362001) but I left the diodes in place.
I discovered (I think during 2017) that the Rotax system was not delivering a high
enough voltage to keep the EarthX fully charged. I added a diode in series
in the C lead to boost the voltage. While troubleshooting the charging problem
I changed back to the original Ducatti which has operated fine until the recent
flickering issue.
I cant decide if I have a battery problem or a Rotax/Ducatti problem.
Jim Butcher
Europa XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479598#479598
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Subject: | Re: Europa Club Membership expired |
Hi Gregory,
The membership section of our website generates an automatic reminder as your membership
is about to expire. Unfortunately, it has no way of knowing if you have
set up an external automatic payment arrangement through PayPal or via your
bank.
You don't need to do anything, leave your existing arrangements unchanged and ignore
the reminder. We can easily tell if you membership is about to genuinely
expire and if you do by any chance double pay, we will detect this and refund
the over-payment (you don't need to do anything).
We have recently amended the wording on the email reminder to alert everyone to
this.
Nigel
(With club treasurers hat on)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479599#479599
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Subject: | Re: Europa Trigear with Rotax 914 running out of steam at |
FL20
Roland,
We often fly at 12K ft in our mono-wheel. We see about 130 - 140 kts ias at 70%
power (30.5 in Hg, 5000 rpm).
Our experience has shown there are three important factors for higher altitude
flight. The turbo waste gate must fully close - no free play in the cable. There
must be no leaks at the carb bowls - look for fuel stains on the drip trays.
If you have the coarse setting of the Airmaster per the manual, your coarse
setting will not be coarse enough. As I recall, we had to adjust the coarse
setting about two turns more coarse for proper performance. Bud suggests fly
in CRUISE /AUTO mode at full power (100%) at cruise altitude. Pitch down and
accelerate towards VNE. If the rpm increases well before reaching VNE, you have
hit the coarse limit and it needs to be set more coarse.
The fuel flows you report are about right. We see 5.5 gph at 70% power and roughly
7 gph at 100%. You really need a manifold pressure gauge!
I hope this helps.
Jim & Heather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479604#479604
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Subject: | Re: Europa Club Membership expired |
Nigel and Jim,
Thanks for info. I must have gotten the old email reminder, since there was
no such wording.
The auto-payment was scheduled for today, and a notice of payment did come
through from PayPal only 18 minutes after my matronics message. The
expiration message preceded the auto renewal payment by about 6 hours.
Thus all is good.
Almost paid twice here, but decided to kill the new transaction in case of a
delay, phew.
Regards,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nigel Graham
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 9:02 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa Club Membership expired
--> <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Hi Gregory,
The membership section of our website generates an automatic reminder as
your membership is about to expire. Unfortunately, it has no way of knowing
if you have set up an external automatic payment arrangement through PayPal
or via your bank.
You don't need to do anything, leave your existing arrangements unchanged
and ignore the reminder. We can easily tell if you membership is about to
genuinely expire and if you do by any chance double pay, we will detect this
and refund the over-payment (you don't need to do anything).
We have recently amended the wording on the email reminder to alert everyone
to this.
Nigel
(With club treasurers hat on)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479599#479599
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight |
(cylindrical0 shaft
Hello,
MOD 62 (change 1/4 inch pin to 3/8 pin, tail plane torque tube) says:
Use a 23/64 sharp drill to open up the 1/4-inch hole. No problem.
However, there is nowhere an indication if the 3/8 reamer specified is actually
of the tapered or straight variety.
23/64 comes just in sufficiently narrower that I assume a tapered reamer needs
to be used to widen the drill hole to 3/8 for small interference fit. I assume
the cylindrical won't even fit into the smaller 23/64 hole.
For those familiar or been there, what type did you use?
I need to order the correct type of 3/8 reamer, and they are over $100 a piece.
Christoph Both
#223 Wolfville Nova Scotia
Canada
Message 12
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Subject: | Alt Light Flickers |
Hello Jim,
I too, am using an LED in substitution of an incandascent light. I don't ever remember
it flickering while the engine is running.
I assume that your hall sensor reading the batt current will have a significant
reading right after starting the aircraft(while its chargine), before it settles
down to zero in cruise? ...just to verify its working somewhat..
According to a description in a regulator manual I have,
'The light should come on only when the system is not charging or is discharging
the battery'.
The battery charging voltage in cruise is 14.4, so it appears to be at a healthy
charging voltage. In other words, its not discharging.
Since the alternator/Ducati are producing power for your accessories, I'll take
that to mean the system is 'charging' to use the term in the first sentence.
Unless there is a short-term voltage dropout caused by a shorted coil or magnet
broken loose (could be found by a scope) or a wiring/connection issue, it seems
the regulator has a higher chance of being the culprit, IMO.
Just out of curiosity...it seems your original Ducati had the same issues, and
that is why you replaced it, before re-installing it later. Could it be that the
original Ducati's twerking is coming back around to roost? Maybe throw the
newer regulator back on and see what happens?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of h&jeuropa
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 9:02 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Alt Light Flickers
The alt light (its a LED, not incandescent) on my Rotax 914 (over 900 hours) has
started to flicker even when at cruise (5000 rpm). It has often flickered when
at low rpm and it always turns full on when the engine is not running. I
have two Hall amp sensors but I can only display one at a time. At cruise, the
amps being delivered by the Rotax system are about 8 to 10 which I what I expect
given the loads turned on. At cruise the amps measured at the battery are
roughly 0, the indication will vary a little from +1 or 2 to 1 or 2 which I
take to be instrument error. The bus voltage is around 13.3 prior to engine
start. After start it slowly climbs to about 14.4 after 20-30 minutes of cruise.
The aircraft is wired in accordance with AeroElectric Z-16. The battery is an
EarthX ETX680 and its monitoring circuit does not show any problem. I switched
from lead acid to EarthX ETX36 in 2014 and in March 2017 changed to ETX 680C.
Ive only had this problem recently. Everything was normal at first after installing
the ETX680C.
In 2014 I added external diodes to supplement the original Ducatti (PN 343620)
regulator/rectifier and a few months later I replaced that Ducatti R/R as the
alt light was illuminating while operation seemed normal. The replacement was
the later model Ducatti (PN 362001) but I left the diodes in place.
I discovered (I think during 2017) that the Rotax system was not delivering a high
enough voltage to keep the EarthX fully charged. I added a diode in series
in the C lead to boost the voltage. While troubleshooting the charging problem
I changed back to the original Ducatti which has operated fine until the recent
flickering issue.
I cant decide if I have a battery problem or a Rotax/Ducatti problem.
Jim Butcher
Europa XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479598#479598
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Subject: | Re: Europa Trigear with Rotax 914 running out of steam at |
FL20
Jim and Heather,
130-140KIAS is not achievable with the Trigear. As I wrote I see 130KIAS at 100%
(MCP) @10000ft, me alone on board. I have the impression, that the Trigear is
not at all comparable with the Mono performance wise. Erich Trombleys Mono is
about 10kt faster at 18k ft than Bud's Trigear. What I'll try next is max cruise
@18k ft to compare that with Bud's 118KIAS. However I don't expect to see
such numbers, given my 105KIAS @ FL200, rather about 110KIAS. My Europa is a
little more draggy for sure, but given the lower fuelflow compared to Bud's Trigear
I assume, that my 914 lacks power.
Good suggestion to check the wastegate operation - and the MP-gauge of course.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS TG 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479610#479610
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Subject: | Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight |
(cyli
Christoph
Not sure how you were planning to tackle this job but i would use a pedestal drill
or milling machine with the torque tube fully assembled and clamped hard to
the machine tool table.
Hand drilling and reaming will probably lead to disaster unless your are very lucky!
I would approach it this way -
Match mark all components so you don,t get them round the wrong way.
Assemble the torque tube on the original 1/4" pins and loctite the components on
to the torque tube. Make sure you have the stabilator drive pins aligned port
and starboard, this won,t be an issue if you have zero wear in the assembly
on the standard quarter pins, if you have then align as best possible before the
loctite sets.
Once set knock out the 1/4" pins and set up on the machine tool aligning the spindle
on your first hole to drill. If you cut the head of one of the original
1/4" pins you can use it as a guide by mounting in the chuck and centering through
the first hole to drill on both sides of the torque tube.
Clamp your tube firmly and then using cutting compound start drilling in small
steps untill your 1/64" below 3/8". Finally use the reamer with cutting compound
to achieve the 3/8" finished size.
Repeat for the other three holes and then warm the components to soften the loctite
enabling them to be removed.
If i was local i would offer to do it for you unfortunately i guess i am not.
Also if this is just to remove slop in the pins consider a smaller stem such as
5/16". Also if your nervous about the work take it to a local machine shop as
this type of work will be straight forward to them, they could also manufacture
some 5/16" pins if you wished to go for that option.
Good Luck
Pat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479611#479611
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