Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:08 AM - Need good E-mail for (AirEupora)
2. 09:32 AM - Re: Need good E-mail for (davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk)
3. 12:36 PM - Re: Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight (cyli (William Daniell)
4. 01:40 PM - Metallurgy and undercarriage legs (jonathanmilbank)
Message 1
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Subject: | Need good E-mail for |
David Joyce I've tried davidjoyce@doctors.org
and One listed in " The Europa Flyer" Social@theeuropaclub.org
Still hoping to get a wing Pit Pin before May 8th.
Rick Stockton
N120EJ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479768#479768
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Need good E-mail for |
Rick, Sorry you have had problems, but it is not surprising as my emails
are: davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk (note the .uk; always fairly prominent in
the Trips section), or chairman@theeuropaclub.org or
trips@theeuropaclub.org I will pass this message on to Bob Hitchcock who
has masterminded the pins distribution and to Jim Butcher in the States.
Happy Flying, David Joyce, GXSDJ
On 2018-05-02 16:08, AirEupora wrote:
>
> David Joyce I've tried davidjoyce@doctors.org
>
> and One listed in " The Europa Flyer" Social@theeuropaclub.org
>
> Still hoping to get a wing Pit Pin before May 8th.
>
> Rick Stockton
> N120EJ
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479768#479768 [1]
>
Links:
------
[1] http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479768#479768
[2] http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
[3] http://forums.matronics.com
[4] http://wiki.matronics.com
[5] http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: MOD 62 3/8 pin tailplane - REAMER tapered or straight |
(cyli
An alternative.
I used 1/4 in bolts - short ones - with nuts on top of 1/2 moon shaped
spacers. If that makes sense. So you have a total of 4 bolts and 4
spacers. This was a bit of a pain to fit. However it does lock the whole
thing together.
Bud suggested a much better variation on this theme which is to use an
aluminium tube with a slit cut in it with nut plates instead of the half
moon spacers and nuts. Would have been much easier.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 8:32 PM, Christoph Both <christoph.both@acadiau.ca>
wrote:
> christoph.both@acadiau.ca>
>
> Hello Partick,
> I tried to respond directly by email, but it bounced back several times.
> Thank you very much for your suggestions, I have now scheduled a date wit
h
> a trustworthy machine shop to come up with a good solution. They even
> mentioned they could produce interference fit smaller pins than the 3/8 I
> got from Europa.
> Your valuable comments will go with the tube into the shop.
> Thank you very much,
> Christoph
>
>
> =EF=BBOn 2018-04-27, 17:07, "owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com on
behalf
> of Patrick Tunney" <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
> ptunney@intergen.com> wrote:
>
> ptunney@intergen.com>
>
> Christoph
>
> Not sure how you were planning to tackle this job but i would use a
> pedestal drill or milling machine with the torque tube fully assembled an
d
> clamped hard to the machine tool table.
>
> Hand drilling and reaming will probably lead to disaster unless your
> are very lucky!
>
> I would approach it this way -
>
> Match mark all components so you don,t get them round the wrong way.
>
> Assemble the torque tube on the original 1/4" pins and loctite the
> components on to the torque tube. Make sure you have the stabilator drive
> pins aligned port and starboard, this won,t be an issue if you have zero
> wear in the assembly on the standard quarter pins, if you have then align
> as best possible before the loctite sets.
>
> Once set knock out the 1/4" pins and set up on the machine tool
> aligning the spindle on your first hole to drill. If you cut the head of
> one of the original 1/4" pins you can use it as a guide by mounting in th
e
> chuck and centering through the first hole to drill on both sides of the
> torque tube.
>
> Clamp your tube firmly and then using cutting compound start drilling
> in small steps untill your 1/64" below 3/8". Finally use the reamer with
> cutting compound to achieve the 3/8" finished size.
>
> Repeat for the other three holes and then warm the components to
> soften the loctite enabling them to be removed.
>
> If i was local i would offer to do it for you unfortunately i guess i
> am not.
>
> Also if this is just to remove slop in the pins consider a smaller
> stem such as 5/16". Also if your nervous about the work take it to a loca
l
> machine shop as this type of work will be straight forward to them, they
> could also manufacture some 5/16" pins if you wished to go for that optio
n.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Pat
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479611#479611
>
>
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>
Message 4
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Subject: | Metallurgy and undercarriage legs |
Would you heat and straighten a Europa tri-gear undercarriage leg if it had become
slightly bent as a consequence of a heavy landing? I thought not, and neither
would I for the simple reason that I know nothing about how steel responds
to very high temperatures. It might become softer, or it might become brittle.
However the heavy landing in question didn't involve me, nor any Europa. A friend
landing a recent version of the Rans S6 with supposedly unbendable legs in
gusty conditions, unfortunately got caught by a gust and departed the runway.
His nose-wheel leg snapped, the propeller got smashed with a little engine power
applied and sideways drifting to the right caused the right wheel to dig into
the earth (mud on tyre sidewall) causing the right undercarriage leg to bow
slightly.
The right wheel now has a few degrees of positive camber (top outwards) and the
right leg lower end is now closer to the aircraft centreline, causing the aircraft
to lean a little to the left. After speaking to the Rans agent, who says
that he's never heard of the latest legs bending and suspects that there will
be distortion in the airframe, we've invited our inspector to come and take a
close look. Several experienced sets of eyes have already looked very closely
at the airframe and careful measurements have been made, thus far not revealing
the slightest evidence of airframe distortion or cracking anywhere in the vicinity
of main leg or nose leg attachments.
There is a strong temptation to get the local blacksmith to come and apply some
intense heat while we pull the wheel sideways, or push down on the bow, until
it stands vertical and the aircraft stands level again. I'm not going to make
encouraging noises about doing this, but my friend wants to give it a try. If
the aircraft were mine and knowing how light it is being a micro(ultra)light,
I would give it a try before spending over 800 on another leg. The bow really
is only a few degrees. But can you tell me, would it be SIGNIFICANTLY weaker?
Please answer if you have knowledge and/or experience in these matters. Rather
not reply thanks, if you're only expressing your gut feelings. And another thought
has just come to me; it would be simpler to do heating and bending in situ,
where the outcome is readily seen. Removing the leg and going back and forth
between workshop and hangar would likely give a less accurate result.
Of course we're already preparing to remove the Jabiru engine in readiness for
sending it to the agent for shock load testing. If you have other advice, all
help gratefully received thanks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479779#479779
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