Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:36 AM - Europa XS Kit for Sale, Airframe Complete (N6ZY)
2. 12:06 PM - Pitot/static (Eoin Maguire)
3. 01:38 PM - Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel (zwakie)
4. 02:16 PM - Re: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel (Alan Burrill)
5. 03:15 PM - Re: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel (zwakie)
6. 03:47 PM - Re: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel (Bud Yerly)
7. 04:12 PM - Re: Re: Instrument Panel (Bud Yerly)
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| Subject: | Europa XS Kit for Sale, Airframe Complete |
We are moving from the USA to the UK, and I need to sell my Europa XS kit with
considerable regret. The airframe is complete, primed ready for final paint,
with a reconditioned Rotax 914 mounted, and an instrument panel for GRT instruments.
I will sell the airframe with or without engine and instruments. Aircraft
is located on the Falmouth Airpark on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Email me
at jffisher@gmail.com for details and prices. Buyer will be responsible for collection
or shipping.
Jerry Fisher
Read this topic online here:
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| Subject: | Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel |
I'm in the process of installing a new panel with a.o. a TRIG TY91 radio and TRIG
TT21 transponder with remote control heads.
The radio units have been installed on a tray under the baggage area, and I am
now wondering what the easiest way is to route the wire bundles for those forward
to the instrument panel.
To my dislike the builder has routed most electrical wires as well as fuel lines
through the tunnel, but I am going to leave that for now. This however makes
the tunnel an already 'busy place', and I do not want to create problems with
existing wires and lines so I need to be careful when routing the new wire bundles.
Routing the bundles across the bottom floor and then work them upwards to the top
of the tunnel (which is my preferred position, above the fuel ilnes) is going
to be a problem as a number of wires/lines is running from port to starboard,
effectively making this approach impossible.
Another idea I had was to use some sort of flexible 'pipe' with 2" diameter, and
work that through the tunnel first to use is as a guide to pull the bundles
through. Problem with this approach however is that it will be hard to properly
connect the bundle to the top of the tunnel. Additional trouble factor is that
the DB connectors for the control heads is of the fixed type that cannot be
opened up to allow for a smaller diameter.
Any suggestions for others options to pull this off? I appreciate all the advise
I can get.
--------
Marcel Zwakenberg
XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483655#483655
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| Subject: | Re: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel |
How about along the door sill line from panel to baggage bay panel and then down
to the installed trays.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
> On 6 Oct 2018, at 21:38, zwakie <mz@cariama.nl> wrote:
>
>
> I'm in the process of installing a new panel with a.o. a TRIG TY91 radio and
TRIG TT21 transponder with remote control heads.
>
> The radio units have been installed on a tray under the baggage area, and I am
now wondering what the easiest way is to route the wire bundles for those forward
to the instrument panel.
>
> To my dislike the builder has routed most electrical wires as well as fuel lines
through the tunnel, but I am going to leave that for now. This however makes
the tunnel an already 'busy place', and I do not want to create problems with
existing wires and lines so I need to be careful when routing the new wire
bundles.
>
> Routing the bundles across the bottom floor and then work them upwards to the
top of the tunnel (which is my preferred position, above the fuel ilnes) is going
to be a problem as a number of wires/lines is running from port to starboard,
effectively making this approach impossible.
>
> Another idea I had was to use some sort of flexible 'pipe' with 2" diameter,
and work that through the tunnel first to use is as a guide to pull the bundles
through. Problem with this approach however is that it will be hard to properly
connect the bundle to the top of the tunnel. Additional trouble factor is
that the DB connectors for the control heads is of the fixed type that cannot
be opened up to allow for a smaller diameter.
>
> Any suggestions for others options to pull this off? I appreciate all the advise
I can get.
>
> --------
> Marcel Zwakenberg
> XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483655#483655
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel |
Burrilla wrote:
> How about along the door sill line from panel to baggage bay panel and then down
to the installed trays.
Thanks for thinking along Alan.
I have looked at that too, but the total number of wires make up a bundle too thick
to fit there (even when splitting the wires up in a bundle routed starboard
and one routed on the port side), so that's not really an option I'm afraid.
I also thought of using a variation on the door sill route: creating some sort
of horizontal 'gutter' right under the door sill or at the floor both port
and starboard side.
To be fair: all options are open, but I really prefer routing it through the tunnel
despite the challenges that come with it.
I thought a bit more on the 'pipe' approach: maybe I can find a lightweight and
flexible semi-circular pipe (half round - half flat) that serves both as a guide
for installation as well as fixture on a more permanent basis. Perhaps the
collective wisdom here knows of such materials and where to obtain it from?
Well, as you can probably tell, my mind is spinning at stellar speed and chances
are that my keyboard is spitting out a load of rubbish now... ;)
--------
Marcel Zwakenberg
XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483657#483657
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| Subject: | Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel |
Marcel,
There is no easy solution, but I have had the luxury of wiring a number of
new aircraft and rewiring a number of older aircraft.
Since your airplane is used you can either live with what the previous buil
der did, rewire, or patch.
If it isn=92t broke and you are going to patch, follow these rules:
1. Make sure the com/transponder/vhf nav antenna wires are clear of the
com and any current carrying wires.
2. Shield all the intercom and radio wires you can. Power and ground ar
e not shielded normally.
3. Since it is a patch job, clearly mark all the wires using permanent m
arking ties. (A zip tie thingy with a tab.)
4. Make sure you have adequate access to the center tunnel hole as fuel,
brake, and wires are present and by adjusting the position of much of this
you may cause a brake line leak, fuel line cut etc. Make a new access hol
e if necessary. I have one large belly panel and a smaller one at the rear
.
5. Most rewire jobs are hampered by the wires running like a spider web
all over the place. Simply pull what you can, mark, lay out and deconflict
the wires. Mark them well. If the run is too short to put it where you w
ant it, you may be better served by making a new wire loom. If not, cut th
e wires and put in a circular or similar plug that is appropriate to make a
n extension. If you don=92t know how to properly crimp and solder=85Practi
ce, buy the right tools and learn the skill.
6. The sticks, autopilot servos, flaps, fuel pump, fuel flow sensors, et
c. will run wires in many directions in the tunnel. Most previously wired
airplanes were wired on the fly rather than in bundles with neat runs comin
g off the bundle. To straighten out the spaghetti, you may have to disasse
mble plugs, and restring the wire. This is tedious, and many hours of mark
ing wires, pins and breaking pins trying to remove them will ensue. Someti
mes it is best to just leave it like spaghetti, but well marked and where p
ossible, bundled. Often it is best to simply group wires into multiple bun
dles and just live with it. It looks messy, but it works. See below.
[cid:image003.jpg@01D45DA4.F34C2360]
1. Plan your panel to airframe interface now. If a panel is not easily
serviceable it will not get serviced.
* The panel and its center support if used should be on nutplates th
rough the firewall for ease of removal.
* If wires run through a hole into the center base of the panel, put
in both strain relief, grommet or smooth casing through the tunnel, bend y
our wire bundle to allow room for the panel to have the wires come up to th
e panel without chafing, interfering with components or restricting install
ation or removal of the panel.
[cid:image007.jpg@01D45DA4.F34C2360]
* I like to make a series of junction plugs. One of mine has a junc
tion plug right where the wire bundle comes out of the tunnel hole. Then a
jumper bundle moves over to my firewall penetration hole (covered by a sta
inless plate and reinforced for shear strength).
* Making the face plates of the panel of FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced
Plastic) as it is easy to fix small oopses, easily painted, easy to cut, an
d very strong. Metal is fine, just don=92t make an error.
1. Plan your firewall penetration for ease of disconnect.
[cid:image008.jpg@01D45DA4.F34C2360]
1. Lay out your panel ergonomically. Use a smooth flow with switches an
d instruments grouped by function or live with what the previous owner stuc
k you with.
2. If radios are in the rear heat in the panel is reduced unless you hav
e an older Dynon or similar EFIS. Heat will build rapidly in the panel. P
lan cooling fans if necessary.
3. Create drawings and take pictures to document what you have done.
4. Label you plugs and the wires in them for troubleshooting.
5. Make up a wiring book because I guarantee in a couple months you will
forget.
Contact me off line as I am putting together a second hand panel with its d
ocumentation. I can send examples for documentation.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
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s 10
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of zwakie <mz@cariama.nl>
Sent: Saturday, October 6, 2018 4:38:27 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Advise wanted: route new wire bundle through tunnel
I'm in the process of installing a new panel with a.o. a TRIG TY91 radio an
d TRIG TT21 transponder with remote control heads.
The radio units have been installed on a tray under the baggage area, and I
am now wondering what the easiest way is to route the wire bundles for tho
se forward to the instrument panel.
To my dislike the builder has routed most electrical wires as well as fuel
lines through the tunnel, but I am going to leave that for now. This howeve
r makes the tunnel an already 'busy place', and I do not want to create pro
blems with existing wires and lines so I need to be careful when routing th
e new wire bundles.
Routing the bundles across the bottom floor and then work them upwards to t
he top of the tunnel (which is my preferred position, above the fuel ilnes)
is going to be a problem as a number of wires/lines is running from port t
o starboard, effectively making this approach impossible.
Another idea I had was to use some sort of flexible 'pipe' with 2" diameter
, and work that through the tunnel first to use is as a guide to pull the b
undles through. Problem with this approach however is that it will be hard
to properly connect the bundle to the top of the tunnel. Additional trouble
factor is that the DB connectors for the control heads is of the fixed typ
e that cannot be opened up to allow for a smaller diameter.
Any suggestions for others options to pull this off? I appreciate all the a
dvise I can get.
--------
Marcel Zwakenberg
XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR
Read this topic online here:
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Sorry Dave,
Lately half the matronics list is going to junk mail.
The Europa panels are just FRP and expensive. You can buy your own and mak
e them as easy.
The pitot static check is best done by a professional avionics shop. Typic
al cost for us here in Florida is $250.
For quick and dirty checks:
>From the EAA and Bingalis books pull one inch of mercury by mouth (raise th
e altimeter exactly 1000 feet via the static tube. On a stock Europa you c
an pull it at the wing pitot static but it is easier to remove the pitot tu
be and disconnect the static line..
VSI or VVI should show a climb and settle to zero.
ASI should indicate 135KIAS
Altimeter should read 1000 feet and be steady.
If leaking on the static, disconnect the VSI as they do fail.
Next the ASI,
If the altimeter is leaking, get it rebuilt.
Never blow into the static. If unsure, pull a slight vacuum on a line and
check. If nothing moves it is most likely a pitot line. Use very light pr
essure, or a small manometer to pressurize the pitot line to one inch of wa
ter. If the airspeed doesn=92t move, its broke.
I make all my panels to be easily removable. It takes me longer to pull th
e cowl off than pull the panel. With the brakes easy to drop down and the
throttle back, I put a towel on the handles and rotate out the panel.
See other post.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Window
s 10
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of david park <dpark748@me.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2018 5:25:37 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Instrument Panel
My advise would be to get a dremel and cut the panel out and replace with r
emovable panels available from Europa!!!!
The three panels pull fwd for access to instruments etc leave sufficient or
iginal panel round the edge to install fixed nuts.
Regards
Dave Park
[cid:946cf8cf-3edc-4d76-93b2-b04fbe8d77d3@namprd02.prod.outlook.com]
> On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Cheers Jonathan
>
> Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me
what=92s sounds like a horrendous job.
>
> Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have
been working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitte
d in Ireland.
>
> The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which regis
tered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the
pitot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so
replumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under t
he dash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I
=92m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
>
> Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively
identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static
and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
>
> Kind Regards
> Eoin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>>
.uk>
>>
>> Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst jo
b that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox fro
m an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because
if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you'
re going to be "in a world of pain"!
>>
>> The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted
from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the coc
kpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) th
at I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it
until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at w
hat's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll neve
r need to come out again. Idiot!
>>
>> I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub a
way scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish
cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking
tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, bel
ieve me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their soc
kets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that
they provide at least some protection for your back.
>>
>>> From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slid
e myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll p
robably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from
the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of th
e console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
>>
>> YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS ST
AGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WI
LL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
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>
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