Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:11 AM - Re: Re: Old / new tailwheel (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
2. 01:30 AM - Re: LED lights intercom interference - Ferrite needed? (Alan Burrill)
3. 07:57 AM - Flap hinge FL9 bearing fit (n7188u)
4. 03:21 PM - Re: LED lights intercom interference - Ferrite needed? (Ruedi Vogel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Old / new tailwheel |
I did it that way first. Worked well. You might need a wider crank on the ne
w tail wheel. As you slow down through 20 knots you lose rudder control, no p
rop draft, so tail wheel steering has to take over.
Sent from my iPhone
> On 28 Oct 2018, at 17:00, Ruedi Vogel <r.vogel@ggs.ch> wrote:
>
> Hi
> Many thanks to Graham, Barry, Jonathan and Andreas for the good advises!
> Now I have decided to rid the old tail wheel. I will keep the old
> wheel bearing block with a modified steering arm. That's the way I can use
> the push road and the cables without modification. Is a bit heavier as the
> solution according to Mode 77. But I have had 3.7kg lead in the back as W/
B
> compensation before.
>
> Best regards
>
> Ruedi Vogel, HB-YJF
>
>
>
>> Am 22.10.2018 um 16:41 schrieb Gaham Singleton:
ernet.com>
>>
>> Hi Ruedi
>> One more thing, Don=99t get rid of the pushrod that moves the rudde
r. Connecting the rudder cables directly to the rudder puts too much load on
the rudder hinges
>> And the flange. Europa did take over my mod for this, the tailwheel is dr
iven by cables from a bracket bolted to the bulkhead.
>> It is possible to use the existing crank driving the old Classic tailwhee
l but using the mod will save weight.
>> Graham
>>
>>> On 22 Oct 2018, at 13:07, tennant <barrington.tennant@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
om>
>>>
>>> Hi Ruedi,
>>>
>>> Get rid of the old tail wheel. I did about 100 hrs on it and was scared o
f it. The later wheel is much better. I find the spring action perfect on ta
ke off as there is nearly no transition from ground to air.
>>> As to landing, I am told by passengers that I land with the tail wheel f
irst, I never notice because I am concentrating on keeping it straight. If y
ou do that there is no bounce!
>>> If you fit the new tail wheel see recent posts about mounting it.
>>>
>>> Barry
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Barry Tennant
>>> D-EHBT
>>> At EDLM - Germany
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483925#483925
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> Ruedi Vogel
> Wiesenweg 6
> CH-3380 Wangen a.A.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: LED lights intercom interference - Ferrite needed? |
Sounds like youve disturbed something in installing the new wiring.
First thing I would check is that everything is earthed to a common Earth Bus and
that all the connections are tight.
How are you powering the new LED? some converters that drop the 12V to LED voltages,
1.2 - 1.4 volt, produce noise from a switching circuit. does the noise stop
if you pull the LED breaker?
Alan
> On 28 Oct 2018, at 21:43, William Bliss <william@wbliss.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> I have installed bright LED's into the cowling for improved visual conspicuity.
When the engine is not running I now have audible breakthrough white noise
through the headsets in time with the Skyflash strobe light (which is mounted
on the tail). I have had no problems with the strobe system up until now. While
flying the white noise was continuous but I was able to partially stop it by
altering the intercom squelch. I then found I had no interference on one frequency
but still had lots on another frequency. Radio communications do not seem
to be affected. The LED and Strobe circuits run off separate contact breaker
switches. Radio and Transponder are Trig which work ok up to now.
>
> There is no high frequency noise suppresion in the LED wiring. I will try running
the power cable through a ferrite ring close to the LED unit. Any suggestions?
>
> William Bliss G-WUFF Mono
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Flap hinge FL9 bearing fit |
Dear Forum Members,
My flap hinge plates (W19, 20 , 21) where painted and there is paint in the holes
where the FL9 bearing is installed. I reamed one using a nominal 0.375" reamer
and found that the bearing OD is 0.375" (or slightly smaller) so it is now
a slip fit (most sleeve bearing are usually slightly oversize (0.001") to achieve
a slight press fit). So I just bonded that bearing with Loctite 638 but,
before I ream any more holes, I wonder if anyone remembers if these bearing normally
have a slight press fit of they are indeed a slip fit and rely on the Loctite
to be held in place. I will order an undersized reamer if necessary (I
would assume a slight press fit is desirable over a slip fit).
Also, I am in the process of fitting the flaps to the wings. I noticed less than
perfect alignment between the position of the hinge plates and the W18 supports
in the ribs (if you follow the manual). The good news for me is that since
the plates in the flaps (FL1, 2, 3) are not in yet I can adjust the position
of the ones at each end (except the center one which is obviously fixated to the
center rib). By adjusting the depth of the rebates at the flap root and tip
I can make the plates align properly (which is what I will do) but that means
the flap may move outboard slightly (possibly around 5mm, if I try to place the
FL# flap hinge plate on the same side as the W18 plate, which I know is not
mandatory but probably nice). Any concerns about the length of the flap actuation
cross tube ending up a little short if the flaps move out slightly or is
that tube longer than needed and needs to be trimmed (the logical scenario). Any
advise or experiences (pictures) of your flap hinge alignment issues would
be appreciated.
Best regards,
Chris Martin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=484078#484078
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: LED lights intercom interference - Ferrite needed? |
Hi William
I have the same problem caused by the switching voltage regulator inside
the LED spot
light in the cowling. One ferrite core was not enough to fix this problem.
I will test an EMI Suppression Filter, close to the LED, as next step
and will inform you about the result.
Ruedi Vogel
Am 28.10.2018 um 22:43 schrieb William Bliss:
>
> Hi all
>
> I have installed bright LED's into the cowling for improved visual
> conspicuity. When the engine is not running I now have audible
> breakthrough white noise through the headsets in time with the
> Skyflash strobe light (which is mounted on the tail). I have had no
> problems with the strobe system up until now. While flying the white
> noise was continuous but I was able to partially stop it by altering
> the intercom squelch. I then found I had no interference on one
> frequency but still had lots on another frequency. Radio
> communications do not seem to be affected. The LED and Strobe
> circuits run off separate contact breaker switches. Radio and
> Transponder are Trig which work ok up to now.
>
> There is no high frequency noise suppresion in the LED wiring. I will
> try running the power cable through a ferrite ring close to the LED
> unit. Any suggestions?
>
> William Bliss G-WUFF Mono
>
>
--
Ruedi Vogel, 3380 Wangen a.A.
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