Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:36 AM - Re: Voltage regulator connection (Brian Davies)
2. 05:05 AM - Re: Idle adjustment (Griffo)
3. 05:10 AM - Re: Water Drain (Griffo)
4. 05:27 AM - Re: Idle adjustment (JonathanMilbank)
5. 08:08 AM - Re: Water Drain (Matt Dovey)
6. 12:42 PM - Re: Re: Water Drain (Alan Burrill)
7. 05:27 PM - Re: Water Drain (Bud Yerly)
8. 06:45 PM - Re: Voltage regulator connection (Bud Yerly)
9. 06:55 PM - Re: Idle adjustment (budyerly@msn.com)
10. 06:59 PM - Re: Headset howl (budyerly@msn.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Voltage regulator connection |
Hi Paul,
That is the common failure mode for that connection. I am not sure that the
black connector block adds anything to the security of the installation. It
is an easy way to connect all of the regulator wires in one go but it masks
the physical state of the spade terminals. I always check that each
individual terminal is secure after installation. In my current new build I
am considering leaving the black plastic bit off and simply protecting each
individual terminal with heat shrink insulation. This would enable a good
physical inspection of each terminal during routine checks.
Brian Davies
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Paul M 383
Sent: 09 May 2021 20:45
Subject: Europa-List: Voltage regulator connection
--> <europaul383@hotmail.com>
Has anybody seen this voltage regulator connection issue? One of the yellow
generator connectors has clearly got hot and is too close to its slot in the
plug.
It's definitely melted, not vibration or mechanical abrasion and looks like
it's simply too close to the edge of its slot in the plug.
How to avoid re-occurrence?
(Apologies for the first image - auto focus [Rolling Eyes] )
Many thanks in advance,
Paul M
XS Mono 912 ULS
G-PLPM
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| Subject: | Re: Idle adjustment |
Hi JonathanM;
I like the sound of your idle low speed stop - any chance of a photo or two.
On the carburettor balance - here is absolutely no need to go to the expense of
a "Carb Mate" any half decent motorcycle shop (or on line) will sell you a pair
of cheap vacuum gauges and the bits to adjust down the inlet pulses. Then
all you will need are two suitable lengths of tubing, so that you can monitor
the vacuum in each carbi, in the cockpit. Don't forget to disconnect the balance
tube befor making your readings Oh and do your static/manual adjustment
befor doing your pneumatic fine tuning. Simple as!!.
--------
46
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Maaate! - every aircraft should have some effective way of sampling the fuel (sump)
in the tank, not just for water but for other contaminants. Oh! & water in
fuel is not the sole concern of ULP , unleaded fuels in general or even ethanol
blends - water contamination can simply be from the diernal temperature range
& atmospheric moisture - fit the drains & do the sampling, befor every first
flight of the day.
--------
46
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| Subject: | Re: Idle adjustment |
Sorry that the aircraft's away for a while, being used by a friend elsewhere. A
photo wouldn't be much use, because it's up to each person to make a penny washer
into a gentle spiral / cam by filing the edge progressively nearer to the
washer hole, about halfway around the circumference.
It's trial and error, to suit the distance between the back of the throttle lever
and the aft bolt holding the throttle quadrant box in place. Another way to
do it might be to follow the instructions in Mod.20, making a plate as shown
but slotting the bolt hole to allow fore and aft movement of the plate.
My method with the penny washer is similar but on a smaller scale to the rotating
parking brake methods I've seen on a couple of Europa monos.
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Griffo thanks for the input mate. I know all that, I work on aircraft for a living.
I didnt build the plane unfortunately. If I had it would have had the drain
valves. Having had the tank outlets out recently i'm in no hurry to revisit
that nightmare. However if there is an alternative to Mod 33 then that may be
an option. The thing has been flying for 20 odd years without them. The mod is
"optional" if your running the thing on Avgas and mandatory (in the UK) if using
mogas! Never came across an aircraft without drains before.
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Not sure what your unhappiness is with mod 33. It was done by builder on mine but
not with long pipes to the back. The drains are just slightly forward of the
tank, tri-gear, but use the essential hardware of Mod33.
Having just changed the aged rubbers sealing the outlets into the tank, replaced
with fuel proof silicon, I agree its not an easy area to work in.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
> On 10 May 2021, at 16:10, Matt Dovey <mattdovey@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Griffo thanks for the input mate. I know all that, I work on aircraft for a living.
I didnt build the plane unfortunately. If I had it would have had the drain
valves. Having had the tank outlets out recently i'm in no hurry to revisit
that nightmare. However if there is an alternative to Mod 33 then that may
be an option. The thing has been flying for 20 odd years without them. The mod
is "optional" if your running the thing on Avgas and mandatory (in the UK) if
using mogas! Never came across an aircraft without drains before.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501836#501836
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Matt,
Sorry I don't know you or your kit, but I have done my own Mod33 fuel drain
for years.
About 5 aircraft have a simple 90 degree fitting epoxied to the floor of th
e aft floor behind the flaps so it is easy to drain.
Make a pair of holes in the aft baggage bay area beyond the flap. Hole sho
uld fit a 1/2 inch socket for the Safeair drain.
Attach the Safeair to a 1/8" NPT 90 degree fitting. Brass or aluminum is O
K.
Grease your socket and insert into your sealed and prepared drain hole.
Place the 90 degree and drain assembly and glue in with Redux.
A variation is to make a ply plate for the 90 degree/drain assembly and re
dux the assembly to the plate then simply glue the plate into your prepped
holes. Very neat. Simply remove the Safeair and screw in a plug during pa
inting.
I have a street tee screwed into the two 90 degree brass fittings for my f
uel quantity experiment pictured below.
The orangish tube is my sight gauge which was added after the original buil
d. Today I pipe it into the Fuel Boss.
[cid:image003.jpg@01D745DA.D9DB3D50]
Most of my Trigear guys put the drains in the tank fuel boss.
Mono guys put them behind the wing.
Below is a typical under the belly fuel drain using a simple 1/8 NPT nipple
and a tee to make a drain and sight gauge line.
[A picture containing indoor, gear Description automatically generated]
There are as many variations as there are airplanes. Note I put my feed li
ne through the back and into the seat well where I install fuel filters wit
h quick disconnects.
I=92m lazy. I have a fuel drain pan and drain hole just in case there is a
leak.
[A picture containing indoor Description automatically generated]
Work with your inspector to see what works for you.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> On Behalf Of Matt Dovey
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2021 1:21 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Water Drain
ilto:mattdovey@hotmail.co.uk>>
Does anyone know if there is an alternative to Mod 33 water drain valves mo
d? For what ever reason my aircraft has never had the mod done even though
its been run on Mogas. I want to add drain valves but not keen on Mod 33
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| Subject: | Voltage regulator connection |
Yep,
Happens with a regulator going bad and or a poor crimped connector or shorting
of the connector. Which ever it is, inspect and correct your wire first.
Consider buying a "spare" regulator. Each dynamo wire goes into the regulator
circuit (GG). If that particular diode is dying in the regulator it can get really
hot (short). A terrific read is the Contrails articles on the Ducati regulator.
Regulators like the Ducati are used in many different vehicles.
The main problem is too much draw. See my techniques article on the Europa Club
site (AMP Zealot) or at mine. The other problem is heat. If the regulator
is routinely above about 120F (50C) and the draw is high (over 15 amps) it's toast.
Cut your amps, monitor the regulator temperature.
Use of heat temperature indicating tapes is recommended. Or hook up a thermistor/sensor
for your Volt Meter for recording.
Here's hoping its just a poor crimp.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
https://www.customflightcreations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Paul M 383
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2021 3:45 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Voltage regulator connection
Has anybody seen this voltage regulator connection issue? One of the yellow generator
connectors has clearly got hot and is too close to its slot in the plug.
It's definitely melted, not vibration or mechanical abrasion and looks like it's
simply too close to the edge of its slot in the plug.
How to avoid re-occurrence?
(Apologies for the first image - auto focus [Rolling Eyes] )
Many thanks in advance,
Paul M
XS Mono 912 ULS
G-PLPM
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| Subject: | Re: Idle adjustment |
There are photos of my throttle stops for both the 914 and it also works for the
912 series Europa Throttle box on the Europa Club website Builders section Bud
Yerly notes Throttle friction is the title.
Over the years I have done this mod and it is simple and it works.
Normally I set my idle to about 1600 hot on a warm day at the carb stop. Then
bump the throttle stop up to 1800 for winter and about 1700 ish for summer.
Warning, you may need to crack the throttle on the 912S a bit to get up quickly
to 2000 RPM otherwise it will shake like the dickens when on a cold start.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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| Subject: | Re: Headset howl |
Will,
Yes it can.
Simply turn off your alternator switch if connected to the C and see if the noise
stops.
If you are wired differently where the regulator is powered continuously and only
the bus is disconnected by the alternator switch, pull the C out of the regulator
or just unplug the whole regulator and check.
If the noise stops. You are out $170 bucks for a new one.
Bud
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