Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: Larger oil cooler - Classic (Tim Ward)
2. 04:16 AM - Re: Re: Water Drain (Bud Yerly)
3. 04:16 PM - Re: Larger oil cooler - Classic (Griffo)
4. 04:21 PM - Re: Water Drain (Griffo)
5. 07:53 PM - Re: where to put OAT sensor? (trevord)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Larger oil cooler - Classic |
Hi Michalm,
Best solution is to reposition the oil coolant below the spinner. An alterat
ion to the lower cowl with a inlet for the oil cooler. Easily done with comp
osite experience or get someone to do it for you. No bull nose required just
keep with the original profile. See photos. I have to place a barrier in wi
nter to keep the temperature up 110C Rotax prefers the engine to run at. Wor
ks very well.
Cheers,
Tim
Sent from my iPhone
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
CHRISTCHURCH 8052
Hom 03315166
> On 13/05/2021, at 18:53, michalm <m.milos@me.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello fellow Europa enthusiasts!
>
> I'm trying to solve the oil cooling issue in my 912 ULS powered Classic. I
have the standard cooling setup with a 10 row oil cooler behind the port ra
diator and slightly enlarged cowl outlets. On hot days (30 C) and loaded to m
ax weight I very quickly reach 120 C oil temp during a climb of just 2000 ft
. If I let it cruise a bit it will go down to 115 C within a few minutes, 11
0 C if I reach cooler air higher up. The coolant stays below 90 C, except th
e climb phase where it reaches around 100 C. So far after reading your past d
iscussions I came up with 2 possible solutions:
> 1. Moving the oil cooler below the spinner.
> 2. Installing an oil/water heat exchanger to supplement the oil cooler.
>
> The first is a bit invasive and as I'm not the original builder I don't fe
el fully confident to perform, yet. The second one is tempting but I thought
about trying a simpler solution first: exchanging the oil cooler for a larg
er model. Mocal makes various sizes - the 13 row should fit without issues a
nd perhaps the 16 row version will fit as well (if it can clear the exhaust p
ipe).
>
> Has anyone tried this approach? How effective this may be without enlargin
g the cowl outlets? According to charts on Mocal website I should expect a r
eduction of oil temp of around 8 C (16 row vs 10 row), but that assumes a fr
ee air flow which is most likely not the case inside the cowling.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=501888#501888
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 2
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I still don't like plastic slip on filters. It is definitely better than l
awn mower filters. Sorry.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of Griffo <scangriffin@bigpond.com.au>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2021 11:14:41 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Water Drain
Good to talk with you Bud,
I dont do so well with imperial/US measurements but can struggle through wh
en I must.
Back to the filters:
Most of the fuel filters of this "type" have poor quality casings, have ple
ated "paper" type filters and many are opaque (making it impossible to asse
s contamination build up)
The Hengst H102WK & H103WK are almost indestructible. Have gauze filters an
d clear casings - they are more like $10 each Australian, if bought singly
but you can get them down to about $6 Au if purchased in quantity.
Like you, I was initially skeptical of the non "barbed" male hose fitting.
However using the right sized ID hose, cut to the correct length and suppo
rted, where appropriate, has resulted in 12 years/900hrs of no leaks, no in
advertent detachments.
One other benefit of the non barb, is that the possibility of tearing the i
nside of the hose, when temporary removal is done, is eliminated. This then
eliminates those troublesome little bits of "rubber" that may appear in yo
ur float bowl.
The H103WK has a built in 90 degree bend, making tight applications that wo
uld benefit from this a breeze.
--------
46
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Larger oil cooler - Classic |
Just to expand the conversation and possibly take a lateral approach:
Most people assume you must have a heat exchanger (coolant radiator and oil coolers)
located at the front of the cowling, however I have seen several set ups
(not Europa) where the heat exchangers are located in non traditional positions,
such as above the engine, even in the warm exit air about to depart the cowling.
The message; dont assume as far forward as possible, is the only location.
--------
46
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Oh well "you can take a horse to water but cant make it drink"
Just as a final comment:
I first came across these filters being used, as prefilters, in Mercedes diesel
cars/vans. I later found that many of the European LSA class aircraft makers
also use them - quit a long way from a lawn mower.
--------
46
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: where to put OAT sensor? |
Has anyone considered the wheel well ?
This space is out of the sun, there is lots of room and the wall I have inserted
to stop mud going into the lower fuselage is flat on my aircraft, so perfect
for mounting things to it by simply drilling a hole.
I have to install several OAT senders due to installing two uAvionix AV30s which
each require a separate OAT sender. Plus there is a third OAT sender for the
Kanardia Airspeed indicator to give TAS.
Would stray exhaust really be a problem here ?
Regards
Trevor
--------
Trevor
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