Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:51 AM - Re: Fuel and oil hoses (Brian Davies)
2. 01:44 PM - Prop Pitch Tool (n7188u)
3. 02:28 PM - Re: Prop Pitch Tool (fklein@orcasonline.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel and oil hoses |
Changing the fuel hoses to a spec that is proof from E10 is clearly a good idea.
Unfortunately it is not as simple as that. The Rotax engine is OK for E10
but is our plastic fuel tank OK?
For UK owners the LAA will be issuing guidance any day now saying that E10
should not be used . This may change when more information is collected on the
potential risks.
Brian Davies
Sent from my iPhone
> On 8 Sep 2021, at 10:29, Alan Burrill <alanb@dpy01.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> I recently did this and bought all of my hoses from either DemonTweeks, Merlin
Motorsport and Hose-clip world.
>
> I found that the fuel hose from above had the specification to be compliant with
ethanol fuel, you can check the appropriate ISO specification online, as it
was for motor sport applications.
>
> I bought the two silicon water pump hoses to radiator and header tank from Europa
but had already cleaned out Skydrive of their Silicon Hose for the engine
water hoses, including a right angled one, but not sure of source for this now.
>
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On 8 Sep 2021, at 10:13, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Next year my fuel and oil hoses will need their 5-yearly replacement. Has anyone
in the UK bought such hoses from Europa recently and if so, how long did
it take until delivery? What are the implications now that E10 mogas is being
introduced i.e do replacement hoses need to meet a higher level of ethanol protection
than hitherto?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=503088#503088
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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Someone asked for more info on the pitch tool I made which I then retrofitted with
a laser pointer. I am enclosing a pdf here with a template for making it.
Can't take credit since the tool itself I patterned from a friend who bought a
new prop and the tool came with it (Whirlwind). But it's just a simple plywood
tool with grooves to hold on the the LE and TE of the prop. I just glued a laser
pointer I had laying around.
I tested the tool by rotating it around and rechecking the spot position on the
ground multiple times and it is very repeatable. But you should check by noting
the position of the spot on all blades a few times after you set the pitch.
I only chocked the airplane and did the adjustment. Of course, removing the plugs
would help but I didn't find it necessary, I just spin the prop slowly and
carefully. Don't forget to put some wood blocks under the outriggers if you
have a mono like me.
Last, don't forget to ensure the blades are at the same level position when you
test (I use a digital protractor) and the tool is at the same place radially.
But I didn't go overboard (except making sure blades are at the same position
with the protractor when you swap them.
I hope it helps.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=503110#503110
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Pitch Tool |
twas me Christhank you for this additional infoalas, I do not find the pdf you
referenced.
Fred
A194
> On Sep 9, 2021, at 1:44 PM, n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Someone asked for more info on the pitch tool I made which I then retrofitted
with a laser pointer. I am enclosing a pdf here with a template for making it.
>
> Can't take credit since the tool itself I patterned from a friend who bought
a new prop and the tool came with it (Whirlwind). But it's just a simple plywood
tool with grooves to hold on the the LE and TE of the prop. I just glued a
laser pointer I had laying around.
>
> I tested the tool by rotating it around and rechecking the spot position on the
ground multiple times and it is very repeatable. But you should check by noting
the position of the spot on all blades a few times after you set the pitch.
I only chocked the airplane and did the adjustment. Of course, removing the
plugs would help but I didn't find it necessary, I just spin the prop slowly
and carefully. Don't forget to put some wood blocks under the outriggers if you
have a mono like me.
>
> Last, don't forget to ensure the blades are at the same level position when you
test (I use a digital protractor) and the tool is at the same place radially.
But I didn't go overboard (except making sure blades are at the same position
with the protractor when you swap them.
>
> I hope it helps.
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=503110#503110
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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