Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:43 AM - Re: Noisy cockpit (n7188u)
2. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: Noisy cockpit (Bud Yerly)
3. 12:20 PM - Re: Oil temperature issue during climb (HB-YNK)
4. 12:47 PM - Re: Re: Oil temperature issue during climb (Bud Yerly)
5. 04:20 PM - Re: Oil temperature issue during climb (n7188u)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy cockpit |
Great reply Bud. Very detailed as always.
I will create a checklist and go through the checkpoints you outline. A few notes
based on preliminary reading of your message but first one question:
What do you mean by "should be able to read the serial number at idle and fuzzy
up to 4000. After 4000 the uncowled engine is hard to read."
1.- I have zero insulation inside. No carpet, nothing on the firewall, noting on
the sides. Airplane not painted but quite slippery based on high cruise speeds
(130-140 knts). Airplane is indeed noisy at my high cruise speeds.
2.- I don't have the intake plenum on the engine. Just good old fashion cone K&N
filters. I did that to keep the airplane light on the nose. I was planning to
install the plenum after flying the airplane a little but the performance is
so spectacular as it is I decided to leave it alone. I do know that intake noise
can be high in the two stroke Rotaxes.
3.- Engine feels silky smooth at the ground when doing runup at 4000 RPM.
4.- Prop not static balanced since the dynamic balance (with spinner) is almost
dead on. Tweaked it to made it better though.
5.- My spinner is off according to what people tell me. Have not fixed that but
it is a light DUC CF one.
6.- Checked blade pitch with a laser tool I made. Will check track though.
7.- I do have a buzzing tach needle and my "used" altimeter wobbles up and down
around 100'.
8.- The muffler used to touch the top of the cooling tunnel but fixed that. No
evidence of interference.
9.- My IAS at low altitude is always at 130-140 knts or so yes that can make it
noisy (CAS is a little lower than that)
My engine: Pulled out of a school CTLS because it reached TBO. Rebuilt (not overhauled
but completely torn apart) by an iRMT Repair Center in Canada. The owner
is an iRMT instructor. Confirmed with Rob Seaton at Rotech that the place is
legit before buying the engine. No modifications. All stock. New CKT muffler.
I did have a few issues with the engine (needed new ignition module and had
to do some work on the carbs). But it is running good and strong.
Best Regards,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504448#504448
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy cockpit |
Answers in Red:
What do you mean by "should be able to read the serial number at idle and f
uzzy up to 4000. After 4000 the uncowled engine is hard to read."
See 4 below.
1.- I have zero insulation inside. No carpet, nothing on the firewall, noti
ng on the sides. Airplane not painted but quite slippery based on high crui
se speeds (130-140 knts). Airplane is indeed noisy at my high cruise speeds
.
No interior means no sound deadening. Never just look at speed. Get the p
lane filled and painted. You will notice a difference, even in handling.
2.- I don't have the intake plenum on the engine. Just good old fashion con
e K&N filters. I did that to keep the airplane light on the nose. I was pla
nning to install the plenum after flying the airplane a little but the perf
ormance is so spectacular as it is I decided to leave it alone. I do know t
hat intake noise can be high in the two stroke Rotaxes.
In my opinion you are sucking hot air into the engine and with the XS cowl
there is not as much negative pressure in the cowl. The Bings don=92t do r
am air well but the inlet plenum is necessary for the best MP to run the 91
2S (ULS is the same, it just means it is the uncertified =93Ultralight=94
engine). Cold air plenums work. Spectacular in relation to what is always
subjective. Air speed calibrations bring home the actual performance.
3.- Engine feels silky smooth at the ground when doing runup at 4000 RPM.
That is good. But look on top of the ignition modules. There you will see
the part number. That should be readable with the engine running for a pe
rfect tune. Most folks find even the out of balance Rotax smooth. It shou
ld be like a sewing machine.
4.- Prop not static balanced since the dynamic balance (with spinner) is al
most dead on. Tweaked it to made it better though.
Get the IPS on your balance down to below .07 or less. It makes a differen
ce.
5.- My spinner is off according to what people tell me. Have not fixed that
but it is a light DUC CF one.
Duc spinners I have seen have a weak backplate. The spinner if not true it
will oscillate and fatigue. Never fly with a wobbly spinner. It is alarm
ing when they fail.
6.- Checked blade pitch with a laser tool I made. Will check track though.
OK
7.- I do have a buzzing tach needle and my "used" altimeter wobbles up and
down around 100'.
Wobbles are not uncommon with a static source that has a minor leak. Depen
ding on the brand, look into a rebuild and check your static system.
8.- The muffler used to touch the top of the cooling tunnel but fixed that.
No evidence of interference.
OK
9.- My IAS at low altitude is always at 130-140 knts or so yes that can mak
e it noisy (CAS is a little lower than that)
Have you calibrated your A/S ? Best Cruise for a 912ULS is about 5000 feet
. Runs richer than necessary above 3500 feet or so with the Bing.
My engine: Pulled out of a school CTLS because it reached TBO. Rebuilt (not
overhauled but completely torn apart) by an iRMT Repair Center in Canada.
The owner is an iRMT instructor. Confirmed with Rob Seaton at Rotech that t
he place is legit before buying the engine. No modifications. All stock. Ne
w CKT muffler. I did have a few issues with the engine (needed new ignition
module and had to do some work on the carbs). But it is running good and s
trong.
After a top overhaul (sounds like what they did) compressions should be all
even and above 75 over 80. If the engine is rough, put in new plugs befor
e you do anything. The oil on the cylinders and from the storage oil fowls
them. Run good gas at all times. Coils rarely get replaced on a top over
haul but watch for weak spark. A bad coil iron laminated center will corrod
e over time. The coil ohms out but the spark remains weak. So is one igni
tion is different in its drop on the S model you may need to spend $400 for
a new coil. Check the grounds also on the coil.
That is about all I can suggest for now. My top three would be:
COLD AIR PLENUM
BALANCE THE PROP
GET IT PAINTED. ITS TIME. (Interiors aren=92t cheap I=92m afraid and upho
lsters cringe when they look inside. But the nice interior quiets the plan
e down and does not affect serviceability if done right.)
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> On Behalf Of n7188u
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2021 9:43 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Noisy cockpit
rb@gmail.com>>
Great reply Bud. Very detailed as always.
I will create a checklist and go through the checkpoints you outline. A few
notes based on preliminary reading of your message but first one question:
What do you mean by "should be able to read the serial number at idle and f
uzzy up to 4000. After 4000 the uncowled engine is hard to read."
1.- I have zero insulation inside. No carpet, nothing on the firewall, noti
ng on the sides. Airplane not painted but quite slippery based on high crui
se speeds (130-140 knts). Airplane is indeed noisy at my high cruise speeds
.
2.- I don't have the intake plenum on the engine. Just good old fashion con
e K&N filters. I did that to keep the airplane light on the nose. I was pla
nning to install the plenum after flying the airplane a little but the perf
ormance is so spectacular as it is I decided to leave it alone. I do know t
hat intake noise can be high in the two stroke Rotaxes.
3.- Engine feels silky smooth at the ground when doing runup at 4000 RPM.
4.- Prop not static balanced since the dynamic balance (with spinner) is al
most dead on. Tweaked it to made it better though.
5.- My spinner is off according to what people tell me. Have not fixed that
but it is a light DUC CF one.
6.- Checked blade pitch with a laser tool I made. Will check track though.
7.- I do have a buzzing tach needle and my "used" altimeter wobbles up and
down around 100'.
8.- The muffler used to touch the top of the cooling tunnel but fixed that.
No evidence of interference.
9.- My IAS at low altitude is always at 130-140 knts or so yes that can mak
e it noisy (CAS is a little lower than that)
My engine: Pulled out of a school CTLS because it reached TBO. Rebuilt (not
overhauled but completely torn apart) by an iRMT Repair Center in Canada.
The owner is an iRMT instructor. Confirmed with Rob Seaton at Rotech that t
he place is legit before buying the engine. No modifications. All stock. Ne
w CKT muffler. I did have a few issues with the engine (needed new ignition
module and had to do some work on the carbs). But it is running good and s
trong.
Best Regards,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil temperature issue during climb |
Dear all
Thanks for all tips and support.
Some additional information I forgot to write.
In the past i had some issue with hot CHT on ground, so i wasn't able to get airborne
within green arc. To solve this issue I already did this work:
- get familiar with Bud's Cooling 101
- Smooth out the inside cowl
- Small lip on outlet behind radiator
- Sealed everything possible around radiators, just not sure how my seal is working
at the interface the the cowling
I will check the sensor, the thermostat and the oil tank vent lines.
But does anyone have experience to fly the 914 without thermostat?
@ Bud, Do you fly with an thermostat?
@ Chris, do you may share a picture too?
Many thanks
Marcel
--------
_____________________________________
Marcel Bodmer
Europa XS Monowheel
HB-YNK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=504452#504452
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| Subject: | Re: Oil temperature issue during climb |
Marcel.
I fly without the oil thermostat all the time. I sit for about 2 minutes longer
waiting for the temps hitting 100F. Climbing to 10000 I just hit 200F on the
oil and 245 on the HT.
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of HB-YNK
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2021 3:20 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Oil temperature issue during climb
Dear all
Thanks for all tips and support.
Some additional information I forgot to write.
In the past i had some issue with hot CHT on ground, so i wasn't able to get airborne
within green arc. To solve this issue I already did this work:
- get familiar with Bud's Cooling 101
- Smooth out the inside cowl
- Small lip on outlet behind radiator
- Sealed everything possible around radiators, just not sure how my seal is working
at the interface the the cowling
I will check the sensor, the thermostat and the oil tank vent lines.
But does anyone have experience to fly the 914 without thermostat?
@ Bud, Do you fly with an thermostat?
@ Chris, do you may share a picture too?
Many thanks
Marcel
--------
_____________________________________
Marcel Bodmer
Europa XS Monowheel
HB-YNK
Read this topic online here:
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil temperature issue during climb |
Marcel, unfortunatedly I couldn't find a good picture of the baffling on the radiators
and the difusers. The oil cooler has two baffles on the sides (that I
do show a picture of) and one on the bottom that is flexible to bend and provide
seal pressure against the cowling bottom. If I remember to take pictures of
the existing baffles when the lower cowling is off I will.
You can also see that the sides of the water cooler have been filled with firewall
material and black RTV. The black RTB is bonded to the firewall material but
not the duct for easy removal.
An important one is at the bottom of the water cooler and butts against the oil
cooler front. Sealing that large gap between the two. So the high pressure in
front of the coolers forces air through the lower part of the oil cooler and
the entire water cooler. Since the oil cooler is not sealed at the top, all the
air coming out of the water cooler has a low pressure area to exit unrestricted.
This eliminates the flow over the upper part of the oil cooler but that is
OK in my installation as the oil seems to remain cooler than the coolant. You
could reverse it (put in in the upper edge of the oil cooler and butt against
the rear of the water cooler). This would force more air through the oil cooler
and less through the water one.
This may not apply to your case but it works for me as my oil stays cool.
Chris
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