Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:22 AM - Re: To gill or not to gill (n7188u)
2. 07:30 AM - Re: Control Column Boot (n7188u)
3. 02:56 PM - Re: To gill or not to gill (rparigoris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: To gill or not to gill |
Thanks for the very informative feedback.
Bud, I will toy with the idea of installing some sort of adjustable flap at the
oil cooler.
Ron, my engine has the new style heads so it measures coolant temp, but yes, at
the heads and not in the location you describe.
The MGL EMS has calibration curves for the VDO sensors used in the Rotax. But yes,
how accurate they are is unknown until verified. All grounds for the EMS run
to the engine so I expect some descent accuracy. Will do some verification
activities this weekend.
And yes, I am enjoying my mono very much. Now that landing it has become second
nature I am really having a good time with it. I only bounce it when I get lazy
and don't hold the nose high enough (almost on purpose) but they are just non
events. I have 120 hrs on it and I haven't reached a year (started flying it
at end of March last year). That's almost twice what I normally fly in a year!
And I think I'll put a lot more hours on it this year as I am planning some
good trips with it.
Regards,
Chris
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| Subject: | Re: Control Column Boot |
Thanks Ron. Downloaded the info and between this and the boot Tim sent me I will
be able to put something together to build a set for my airplane.
Chris
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=505971#505971
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: To gill or not to gill |
Hi Chris I vaguely remember reading about the new style cylinder head but it never
stuck in my mind because I have the old style that just measures cylinder
head temp. I think what you have is all that's needed to measure coolant temp.
One would think that ground of sensors would be terrific, but according to Lockwood
especially on an engine with some time on it, grounds can go flaky. They
say the Loctite insulates, they want first 2 threads left bare to allow a better
ground. I turned a copper pipe to dimensions of senders and soldered a piece
of solid #14 Romax wire to it, then clamped to sensor/senders. The ground
wire is soldered to the Romax wire, but there is enough of a tail on the Romax
to support the wire so chances of a fatigue fracture at the solder joint is way
reduced. all ground wires run the the field of tabs on the firewall. The instrument
grounds also run to the field of tabs. Here's some pics:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ah1S270Nwg9V331eDH8FS0IuqGX8?e=JD8tAG
Also every electrical connection gets a drop of CRC 2-56 after getting Scotchbrighted,
all PIDG connections get bent closed, but I use my small Swiss Army knife
small flatblade screwdriver inserted in the lead edge of the PIDG just a small
way before bending closed so insertion is made much easier.
I purchased clamps from McMaster:
https://www.mcmaster.com/hose-clamps/tight-seal-bolt-clamps-for-soft-hose-and-tube-8/
The 304 with stainless screw.
I'm not sure if your new engine has the same oil pressure sender as I do, the crappy
VDO. I have the original sender only and purchased one from Lockwood with
a switch as well. I fooled with both of them and they are off from each other
by at least 15%. I have UMA instruments so have some adjustment when I calibrate.
BTW when copper oxidizes it is extremely resistive. When silver tarnishes it's
still about 50% conductive. Cool Amp allows you to silver plate. It's a salt,
so whatever you are doing make sure you can wash away everything with water. No
tapped or blind holes. If something is giving you a hassle, silver plate it.
Works with copper and brass. solders very easy. I have a piece of copper in my
back yard now a few decades old and the silver plate is still there, all the
copper is way beyond conductive. If you ask pretty please, you can get a free
sample:
https://www.cool-amp.com/cool-amp
They also sell Conducto Lube that's a grease with a lot of silver in it.
I didn't bother silver plating my sensor/senders. Will do so if I have a problem.
Ron
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