Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:12 AM - Re: Re: Bowed doors (Pete Zut)
2. 05:54 AM - What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 (h&jeuropa)
3. 06:55 AM - Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 (Area-51)
4. 07:05 AM - Re: Which primer ? (daaza22)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 (Pete Zut)
6. 09:45 AM - Re: Which primer ? (Area-51)
7. 11:14 AM - Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 (Area-51)
8. 12:05 PM - Re: Which primer ? (daaza22)
9. 06:43 PM - Re: Which primer ? (Area-51)
10. 06:44 PM - Re: Which primer ? (Area-51)
Message 1
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Hi Bud,
Got an LSTechnologies struts P/N?
Thx,
Pete
On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 10:18 PM budyerly@msn.com <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Will,
> Two things:
> I don't blame the door seal. It mainly is the fit of the door/shoot
> bolts. See Tech Tip from long ago. Should be on my website also. If you
> don't see them I can resend.
>
> I actually have a thicker door seal (5/8") on 12AY. But the bulb is a
> thinner material and slightly softer. The door is designed so that when
> properly fitted it has a 12mm to 1/2 inch gap between the cockpit flashing
> and the door. That is plenty. A door that is poorly fitting enough that
> one must pull, attach cables to, or knobs and still fails to seat, needs a
> tune-up to correct the fit. As Chris said, I have written on this issue.
> See my website on hinging and also on refitting a door (handy if you loose
> one). I wrote these up as instructions to clients unable to come to the
> shop and have me do their installation. Their doors are just fine.
> Especially with them taking time to adjust the clamshell properly.
>
> I chose the thicker bulb seal for the gap that forms at high speed cruise
> as the doors flex a bit by the low pressure area on top and sides.
> Annoying, but in Florida, not an extreme issue. However, by adding the
> slightly larger bulb, it cured my drafty issue when cruising above 10,000
> in my shorts and T shirt.
>
> About the doors:
> Doors should close and latch with one finger from the outside or inside.
> In cold weather like in the UK and Canada, the seals do get hard and
> frankly, a bit of push down with bulky clothes on is tough to do. A small
> knob on the back of the door is assurance that you have the door in the
> rebate ready for the latch to fall. But again, push the handle down
> vertically rather than yanking it inboard (as most do). The lip of the
> door may hang up on the exterior or if you didn't round your shoot bolt
> guides nicely, the two shoot bolt guides may hit one another and prevent
> proper seating. I've never really pushed the community on properly
> rounding the shoot bolt guides to help align the door. The guides are
> tapered but a small lip can be quite a hangup. I"ve always sloped my guide
> protrusions for a nice slip fit. I also use a 1/32" 960-8L washer between
> my shoot bolt guides while they are curing in place to give me a little
> play and a better "slip fit". I also do an alterna!
> te mod 66 for my door struts. Using the LSTechnologies struts I
> suggested is quite handy as the door stays open but once past 3/4 down, the
> strut does not hold the door open. It is all about geometry.
>
> No one likes to do a door refit, but it is worth the time. Most
> installers do not understand how a clamshell door fits (even fewer of the
> secondhand owners do) nor do most builders understand the geometry of the
> curved clamshell and consequently fail to properly adjust the door guides,
> and glass installation to allow the door to fit the door gap perfectly.
>
> As for seals: Go on-line, there are many different shapes and sizes of
> door seals. I prefer the round rather than U shape bulb. Sizes can be had
> from 3/8 to 3/4 inch diameter and bulb thickness from 1mm to nearly 2mm, so
> there are many to choose from. Or as some have done, make your own if you
> can live with your door fit.
>
> Remember, don't pull in to close, push down on the sill and latching ease
> is enhanced. All the lights, and gimmicks to assure closing doesn't
> replace a push on the lower door prior to takeoff as a "last chance" doors
> closed and locked check.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506715#506715
>
>
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| Subject: | What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 |
Starting thread for this week.
Our condition inspection continues, but attending several Gillmore Keyboard Festival
events each day really slows progress! We did get the fuel flow transducers
relocated to the rear which will hopefully increase accuracy.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506718#506718
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 |
Another day of crap conditions... Pulled the lid off the engine compartment and
measured up all the hoses for the five year change out... paused to acknowledge
the enormous internal void above the motor ... went back to the computer screen
to research OEM equivalent source stock; mission accomplished. OE oil hose
sourced for $0.2345/cm instead of rotax dealer's $1.50/cm; japanese OE Carbi
mount rubbers sourced for 1/3rd rotax dealer price; OE carbi overhaul kits sourced
for 1/10 rotax dealer price; OE oil filter sourced 1/2 rotax dealer price...
not 100% certain yet on the BCD fuel pump; found something that looks uniquely
the same... will be giving Gates Barricade a try on the fuel hose; getting
a bit over the stench of benzine and toluene left on anything that gets placed
in the cockpit for more than ten minutes. If that fails to work then will
be going straight to solid teflon lines.... main coolant hoses look like a bit
of fun to match up; will start with austin7 or hillman imp and keep moving up
the list from there.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506719#506719
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| Subject: | Re: Which primer ? |
Thanks for that guy's .
I have already download and printed your guide to finishing Bud .
What I am really looking for is the type , brand and approx quantities
prime and top coat needed .
That said I am grateful for any advise ,thanks again.
Darren
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506720#506720
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - |
5/16
fwiw, "solid teflon lines" unless carbon impregnated potentially end up
with pinholes due to static discharge.
Cheers,
PeteZ
On Tue, May 10, 2022 at 10:02 AM Area-51 <goldsteinindustrial@gmail.com>
wrote:
> goldsteinindustrial@gmail.com>
>
> Another day of crap conditions... Pulled the lid off the engine
> compartment and measured up all the hoses for the five year change out...
> paused to acknowledge the enormous internal void above the motor =F0=9F
=A4=94=F0=9F=A4=94...
> went back to the computer screen to research OEM equivalent source stock;
> mission accomplished. OE oil hose sourced for $0.2345/cm instead of rotax
> dealer's $1.50/cm; japanese OE Carbi mount rubbers sourced for 1/3rd rota
x
> dealer price; OE carbi overhaul kits sourced for 1/10 rotax dealer price;
> OE oil filter sourced 1/2 rotax dealer price... not 100% certain yet on t
he
> BCD fuel pump; found something that looks uniquely the same... will be
> giving Gates Barricade a try on the fuel hose; getting a bit over the
> stench of benzine and toluene left on anything that gets placed in the
> cockpit for more than ten minutes. If that fails to work then will be goi
ng
> straight to solid teflon lines.... main coolant hoses look like a bit of
> fun to match up; will start with austin!
> 7 or hillman imp and keep moving up the list from there.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506719#506719
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Which primer ? |
Depends on the primer used; if you go with a "high fill" all-in-one "high solids"
primer you affectively get about 3-4 layers of standard primer in one application
and depending on your compressor and spray gun nozzle you can lay it on
really thick and block straight back after 36hours curing; wet on wet with first
run a fast light mist to aid adhesion then back over for full coverage; you
will probably need at least two sessions with primer and maybe a third... I
used All-U-Need on my last project which is a great product; you just can't leave
it for months though before blocking otherwise it will fully cure and be too
hard to block back easily. It provides a 12hr window to spray another fresh
coat on and it will fully seal off against any moisture absorption 12L will do
the whole aircraft; 8L of body filler is a good start and you will probably
find you need more; 4L of feather fine will probably do you; make sure the hardner
on each product is still in date... All-U-Need is a base primer/sealer that
you use your fillers over top of while blocking and its fully compatible with
all industrial paint systems. You can finish off with another coat of All-U-Need
and do a final block down and you're ready for top coats. Job will be sealed
against moisture until you do... watch your spray suit and airline don't
drag over the painted surface as you go and have a step ladder on each side to
get height when needed... 8L of top coat might just get you there; buy some extra
for any future paint repairs... then you got your mixing/measuring containers,
pouring filters, tack rags, solvent rags, wax & grease remover, sanding
discs and strips 120 right through to 2000 grit - and here's the caveat; keep
the surface build (layers) as thin as possible, and under no circumstances ever
let silicone anything near or get onto the prep surface... most of the primer
filler you put on will end up as dust on the floor... calculate how much product
will be needed for each wet session/task and have it setup premixed at room
tempera!
ture rea
dy to refill the spraygun pot as you go; plan your wet sessions really well...
See if Peter still does his Melomotive youtube videos, you'll pick up a lot of
useful practical knowledge and skills there. And use a good quality 3M 6000 series
or better dust mask.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506722#506722
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 5/9 - 5/16 |
Thanks Peter; didn't know i didn't know! Guess might have to go stainless?? Or
seal off the console snd fit a small exhaust fan to suck the vapor away
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506723#506723
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| Subject: | Re: Which primer ? |
thats all great info thanks . I will check out the types you mentioned and have
a search on youtube for the videos .
Also do you have any thoughts on spray systems HVLP vs LVLP etc
Cheers Darren
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506724#506724
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Which primer ? |
Traditional LVLP setup; use a standard suction style gun for all your prep work;
it doesn't need to be anything expensive; if you do use All-U-Need you will
need a larger nozel as it is a heavily solids loaded product so youwill need to
remove or upgrade the pickup strainer in the paint pot.
Invest in a good gravity fed gun and a few sets of spare seals and pot strainers
for your top coats and keep it thoroughly clean always before and after use;
put about 250ml of cheap thinners through it at the end of each session before
you strip it down and clean it; it will last a lifetime if you care for it properly.
You don't need the most expensive one just a mid level professional unit.
Upgrade to a 1L paint pot if it doesnt already have one. Never leave mixed
2pak paint in the pot for more than 24hr. If the paint sets off in the gun you
will probably have to throw it in the bin; same for your primer gun. If you
can afford a second standby gun for top coats then do it. Top coats can be stressful
the more you can do to prevent delays during the session the more relaxing
the job will be.
Have a designated test board to spray on and tune your spray pattern and paint
saturation before hitting the actual job. Get your technique sorted before hitting
the job surfaces. Work out the point where your paint starts to run; when
it does you've put it on too thick; once it looks wet move on to another spot;
work broadly steadily and quickly; know your "flash times" and don't spray back
into flashed paint; so again plan how you are going to move around the job
"wet on wet" to stay ahead of the flash time. You want to be able to lay down
a quick mist coat followed by a full wet coat. You will be doing this over three
seperate sessions for your top coat, and two sessions if finishing off with
final clear.
Apply a cheap guide coat over the job for your final blocking sessions; you can
also use your first top coat if you can afford it. Your guide coat should be
a contrasting shade to your base coat and fillers.
Again follow the manufacturer instructions on humidity, ambient temperature, paint
to thinner/extender ratios, flash times, and pot life.
Work out what the different adjustments on the gun do to the spray pattern and
surface quality. If something goes wrong while you are spraying stop straight
away and get it rectified rather than flying on into the bad weather; top coat
is expensive.
Plan where you are going to clean and wash your gun when finished; well away from
the job.
Youtube "blocked spray nozzle" because it may and probably will happen mid session...
know how to flush out the nozzle and tell tale signs of a blockage; experience
will find you hearing when it happens.
Get a good water trap installed on your compressor and a smaller inline one at
the gun. You will need earplugs.
Use a plain airline rather than a coiled one.
Heavy paints like high fill primer, overspray will fall to the ground quickly rather
than float around in the air; the opposite will occur with top coats which
will get on everything.... everything; if you can gain access to a booth for
these top coat sessions take it; creating a booth at home is not difficult though
with enough plastic sheet, fly screen and exhaust fan to pull the mist away
from the work surfaces; you can wet the floor before painting which prevents
a lot of dust being fluffed around.
White is the best colour to apply its the least revealing of imperfections when
complete; black is the total opposite; thats why great quality base coats are
black.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wfwq3PdZfnQ
Peter is an old school surface scientist... you will save time, frustration, and
money...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506726#506726
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Which primer ? |
Traditional LVLP setup; use a standard suction style gun for all your prep work;
it doesn't need to be anything expensive; if you do use All-U-Need you will
need a larger nozel as it is a heavily solids loaded product so youwill need to
remove or upgrade the pickup strainer in the paint pot.
Invest in a good gravity fed gun and a few sets of spare seals and pot strainers
for your top coats and keep it thoroughly clean always before and after use;
put about 250ml of cheap thinners through it at the end of each session before
you strip it down and clean it; it will last a lifetime if you care for it properly.
You don't need the most expensive one just a mid level professional unit.
Upgrade to a 1L paint pot if it doesnt already have one. Never leave mixed
2pak paint in the pot for more than 24hr. If the paint sets off in the gun you
will probably have to throw it in the bin; same for your primer gun. If you
can afford a second standby gun for top coats then do it. Top coats can be stressful
the more you can do to prevent delays during the session the more relaxing
the job will be.
Have a designated test board to spray on and tune your spray pattern and paint
saturation before hitting the actual job. Get your technique sorted before hitting
the job surfaces. Work out the point where your paint starts to run; when
it does you've put it on too thick; once it looks wet move on to another spot;
work broadly steadily and quickly; know your "flash times" and don't spray back
into flashed paint; so again plan how you are going to move around the job
"wet on wet" to stay ahead of the flash time. You want to be able to lay down
a quick mist coat followed by a full wet coat. You will be doing this over three
seperate sessions for your top coat, and two sessions if finishing off with
final clear.
Apply a cheap guide coat over the job for your final blocking sessions; you can
also use your first top coat if you can afford it. Your guide coat should be
a contrasting shade to your base coat and fillers.
Again follow the manufacturer instructions on humidity, ambient temperature, paint
to thinner/extender ratios, flash times, and pot life.
Work out what the different adjustments on the gun do to the spray pattern and
surface quality. If something goes wrong while you are spraying stop straight
away and get it rectified rather than flying on into the bad weather; top coat
is expensive.
Plan where you are going to clean and wash your gun when finished; well away from
the job.
Youtube "blocked spray nozzle" because it may and probably will happen mid session...
know how to flush out the nozzle and tell tale signs of a blockage; experience
will find you hearing when it happens.
Get a good water trap installed on your compressor and a smaller inline one at
the gun. You will need earplugs.
Use a plain airline rather than a coiled one.
Heavy paints like high fill primer, overspray will fall to the ground quickly rather
than float around in the air; the opposite will occur with top coats which
will get on everything.... everything; if you can gain access to a booth for
these top coat sessions take it; creating a booth at home is not difficult though
with enough plastic sheet, fly screen and exhaust fan to pull the mist away
from the work surfaces; you can wet the floor before painting which prevents
a lot of dust being fluffed around.
White is the best colour to apply its the least revealing of imperfections when
complete; black is the total opposite; thats why great quality base coats are
black.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wfwq3PdZfnQ
Peter is an old school surface scientist... you will save time, frustration, and
money...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=506727#506727
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