Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (SHERIDAN Roger)
2. 01:46 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Area-51)
3. 01:55 AM - Re: arplast pv 50 (IanGale)
4. 05:22 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Pete)
5. 07:31 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Bud Yerly)
6. 07:47 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Rob Zeelenberg)
7. 01:19 PM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Fred Klein)
8. 02:28 PM - Re: Re: arplast pv 50 (Ken Atkinson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Hi Fred,
I would try this dremel attachment to regulate depth.
Rotary Multi Tool Cutting Guide with Drills Router Attachment Kit HSS Router Drill
Bit Set https://amzn.eu/d/8s68s8r
Best wishes,
Roger
> On 6 Aug 2022, at 05:47, Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan@westnet.com.au> wrote:
>
> CAUTION: This email originated from outside your organization. Exercise caution
when opening attachments or on clicking links from unknown senders.
>
>
> Fred,
>
> I would suggest a flap disc on an angle grinder. The coarseness of the flap disc
subject to test but Id try medium to start.
>
> Before I fitted my windows, I used this method to remove existing gelcoat in
order to get maximum depth rebate for the window. I approached the job thinking
it would take several hours but much to my surprise it was done in no time.
I found the flap disc easy to control.
>
> Good luck mate
>
> Kingsley
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 6 Aug 2022, at 11:56 am, Fred Klein <freddythek10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Gents,
>>
>> Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.
>>
>> Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient
to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the
slightest impression in the Redux itselfit remains as a smooth film which is
bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.
>>
>> I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of
the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.
>>
>> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Fred
>> A-194
>
>
Roger Sheridan
Line Pilot
+44 (0) 1737 822 885
www.specialist-aviation.com
Specialist Aviation Services Limited Registered in England and Wales No:1848773
Registered office: Gloucestershire Airport, Staverton, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
GL51 6SS
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Hi Fred, from experience i would invest in a mini belt sander and practice on some
timber until you get the hang of it using one of your hand positions to maintain
position and pressure and the other to move the tool in a linear direction
(invest in a mid range unit, the bearings are better quality). Depending on
how much material you are wanting to remove the belts are available from 80grit
down to 800grit... 80grit will tear through panel steel and welds without
batting an eyelid... for softer materials like composites 240g to 400g belts will
probably be sufficient; if you want a real smooth surface with bonding strength
you could finish to 800g... start with the lower grit numbers and really
get a good handle on technique; you won't need very much pressure and be aware
the belt can sometimes pull into the surface if your attention is distracted,
regulate your speed, start slow and as you get more confident you can open up
the trigger a bit more. Old surfboard would be good to practice on... And make
sure to use a good 3M cartridge respirator.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507613#507613
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/712b3947_5d22_4c49_8d15_53a43850143a_214.jpeg
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| Subject: | Re: arplast pv 50 |
Thought it would be helpful to add some images of the hub disassembly and bearing,
bush, o ring replacement. The orange nylon block has a barely perceptible
notch on the corner which the manual talks about - with trailing edge up it goes
on the right as you view the blade from tip looking towards hub.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507614#507614
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/d950f311_7edb_46bb_bdbf_35cb91acd9df_104.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/6a1d2f42_0655_4dce_96ae_efcd5099fd0d_801.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/57fa3d6a_0524_47aa_acb1_8fb4f725eab0_617.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ba139334_33db_46b8_b511_f9b3e9a5aeb1_187.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bf012648_07f6_4c16_af5a_41a3dbd68fac_199.jpeg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ca49ab2a_3cbb_459e_b7cb_3eb2bc0a3214_212.jpeg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Indeed you are correct.extreme care would be required. I have not used it on the
door frame in your context, but have in others. Since the redux is softer and
a different color, and the Dremel speed is adjustable, and using the dremel
flex extension, with a steady hand i find it a great tool for carefully sculpting
composite.
Lots of provisos
-PeteZ :)
> On Aug 5, 2022, at 11:01 PM, freddythek10@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>
> Peteis this an idea?or a recommenation based on experience?
>
> Id be concerned about evennessIf grinding it away is the answer, I would think
sandpaper would offer a more even result
>
> Im hoping theres another type of procedureI always thought Redux softened with
heat, but I dont want to distort the window frame
>
> F>
>
>> On Aug 5, 2022, at 7:00 PM, Pete <peterz@zutrasoft.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Careful use of a Dremel sanding drum?
>>
>> Good luck!
>> PeteZ
>>
>>>> On Aug 5, 2022, at 9:57 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>> I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth
of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new
window.
>>>
>>> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>>
>>> Fred
>>> A-194
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | replacing acrylic window |
Hi Fred,
Good answers all, but I find for that Redux thin film and sometimes thicker film
removal does not require a power tool at all times. I do the following:
I have a one inch and two inch sanding disk attachments for a drill with stick
on Velcro pads or roll lock. I have roll locks by 3M and other providers for
1, 2, and 3 inch sanders. I think I spent 20 bucks and they are great for those
nasty little corners. I no longer put the small disks doing fine work on my
90 degree air tool as it cuts too fast for delicate/precision work. I simply
use 80 grit on the wheel to do the corners nicely. A piece of .016 metal in
the slot helps keeping the edges of the roll lock from edge cutting deeply. I
will grind off the disk edge to prevent it from digging in and protect the edge
of the flange with a bit of thin metal. A sanding drum is hard to control
the depth so I prefer a flap wheel on slow speed on my multitool. The flap wheel
is about 10mm / 3/8" so the width is about right and it doesn't grind into
the corners as bad or cut too fast causing a rippled surface.
Otherwise, assorted stick on grits of sandpaper (normally I use 60, 80, 120 grits)
attached to a FLAT STICK OR PIECE OF WOOD as a sanding block works quick and
easy. I initially use the 60 to 80 grit to break the top and finish with the
120 as I get to the gelcoat. I normally am half way around a windscreen before
one of the guys got the power tool ready. The nice thing about a stick or
block is I can set the paper on just shy of the edge of the block and the wood
rides in the slot without cutting into the finished gelcoat area of the recess.
The corners can be a bear so a rotary disk on a slow 800 rpm drill and a
deft hand works for me. My son was very good with the oscillating Fein tool.
I never liked it as much as hand sanding the straight areas, and I have a tool
for just about everything. Dremel also made a good linear oscillating sander
with many heads and of course genuine Dremel sanding pads, but it is no longer
available. Shame, as it was a very nice tool for detail work.
There is no fast way to do it. High Speed Power tools can dig in and give an uneven
surface but with practice and a deft hand, some metal guards to protect
areas you don't want damaged by the edge of the tool, will work. But from my
experience, Redux with flox in it is quite sandable by hand. Your fingers tell
you how much force your putting on the paper and your eye will not allow you
to dig in. You will get a nice even cleaned and prepped surface.
Just my thoughts,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2022 9:52 PM
Subject: Europa-List: replacing acrylic window
Gents,
Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.
Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to
soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the
slightest impression in the Redux itselfit remains as a smooth film which is bonded
to the recess in the door/window frame.
I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the
frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.
Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?
thanks,
Fred
A-194
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Gents ,
Probebly not the right medium for this , but still ... hereby for sale my
Europa Classic ,in The Neteherlands monowheel # 157 PH-POP ,with trailer
first flight 1999 , 675 hrs Rotax 912 ,80hp , Arplast PV50 any reasonable
offer around Euro 15.000
with kind regards Rob .
Op za 6 aug. 2022 03:53 schreef Fred Klein <freddythek10@gmail.com>:
>
> Gents,
>
> Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard
> door/window.
>
> Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat
> sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but
> without making the slightest impression in the Redux itselfit re
mains as a
> smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.
>
> I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth
> of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the
> new window.
>
> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing
> Redux?
>
> thanks,
>
> Fred
> A-194
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Gentsmany thanks to all respondents for all, very helpful, suggestions
Onward,
Fred
> On Aug 5, 2022, at 6:51 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gents,
>
> Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: arplast pv 50 |
On 06/08/2022 22:15, Ken Atkinson wrote:
> You appear to be coping well with the PV50 refurbishment. Don't forget to fit
a
> mechanical fine pitch stop. It is the aluminium tube that limits the travel if
> you have a screw failure.Adjust length to suit your set up.With the fine pitch
> stop microswitch disabled the motor can be heard loading up as the o-ring
> compresses! Stop pressing go fine in manual at this point. It is a requirement
> and could save the aircraft if you have a screw failure? Also an interesting
> observation--- my Rotax has always been difficult to start.I have cured this
> with - new sprag clutch replacement, friction torque setup, new Ignitech powered
> ignition. It starts first blade now smoothly, no banging about! Previously the
> PV50 blades quickly became slightly loose but now remain firm in their
> bearings. I believe the poor starting was causing the rapid wear in the PV50
> bearings. I will monitor this and, hopefully, will not have to change the
> bearins quite so often.
>
> Looking forward to Popham!
>
> Cheers Ken. G-CEKV Mono no 19
>
>
> On 06/08/2022 09:54, IanGale wrote:
> >
> > Thought it would be helpful to add some images of the hub disassembly and bearing,
bush, o ring replacement. The orange nylon block has a barely perceptible
notch on the corner which the manual talks about - with trailing edge up it
goes on the right as you view the blade from tip looking towards hub.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507614#507614
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/d950f311_7edb_46bb_bdbf_35cb91acd9df_104.jpeg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/6a1d2f42_0655_4dce_96ae_efcd5099fd0d_801.jpeg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/57fa3d6a_0524_47aa_acb1_8fb4f725eab0_617.jpeg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/ba139334_33db_46b8_b511_f9b3e9a5aeb1_187.jpeg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/bf012648_07f6_4c16_af5a_41a3dbd68fac_199.jpeg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/ca49ab2a_3cbb_459e_b7cb_3eb2bc0a3214_212.jpeg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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