Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:58 AM - Re: replacing acrylic window (Erich Trombley)
2. 08:17 PM - POH/Operations Manual for Grove conventional gear XS Europa (tonyvaccarella)
3. 08:46 PM - Re: Re: replacing acrylic window (fklein@orcasonline.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
Hi Fred,
You might also try a soldering iron with an Exacto knife attachment. I have successfully
used this tool on other tasks and suspect it would work rather well
on the redux. I would use a chisel point blade and plunge cut from the top down
to the window rebate. Then come in from the side to heat and lift off the
redux working your way around the window. The localized heat from the iron should
soften the redux without distorting the fiberglass window frame.
Good luck with the task at hand,
Erich
N28ET Classic Mono 914
Message 2
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Subject: | POH/Operations Manual for Grove conventional gear XS Europa |
Im nearing the completion of my conventional gear XS Europa S/N A011. Im trying
to make an Operational Manual for this aircraft. Im utilising the POH documents
provided by The Europa Club - they offer three variants - Mono, Trigear, and
Glider wings.
Europa has advised me that it's best I base my Manual on the Mono document - however,
Im having trouble determining the correct take-off and landing procedure
for this airframe - due to the flaps being independent of the fixed landing
gear.
Im hoping that some kind owner/builder with a conventional wheel aircraft wouldn't
mind sharing their Manual with me.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards to all
--------
Tony Vaccarella
Mascot NSW 2020
Sydney Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507624#507624
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: replacing acrylic window |
The task of removing the shards of plexiglas was accomplished as follows:
- With the door frame still hinged to the fuselage, I closed the latch w/ the door
frame in the closed and locked positionI did this to minimize the potential
for the door frame to distort when heat was applied.
- Working from the exterior, I used a heat gun to apply heat directly to the acrylic
along its edge in the area of a crack which extended to the edge of the
window.
- In a remarkably short time, the acrylic softened enough to deform and break the
bond between it and the bed of Redux in the recess, allowing me to remove a
shard and open a gap around the windows perimeter.
- The gap allowed me to grasp the edge of the acrylic with pliers while applying
heat sufficient to radically deform the acrylic without even a hint of distortion
to the door frame or a softening of the now exposed bed of Redux.
- I also used a thin SS spatula to pry while applying heat to the acrylicthe acrylic
popped out of the recess in segments.
- The heat sometimes caused the paint to bubble, but the bubbling was confined
to the half inch of paint which was on the acrylic rather than upon the fiberglass
door frame.
I will await arrival of the new window from LP Aero before dealing with the existing
bed of Redux.
> On Aug 7, 2022, at 10:57 AM, Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley@juno.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> You might also try a soldering iron with an Exacto knife attachment. I have
successfully used this tool on other tasks and suspect it would work rather well
on the redux. I would use a chisel point blade and plunge cut from the top
down to the window rebate. Then come in from the side to heat and lift off the
redux working your way around the window. The localized heat from the iron
should soften the redux without distorting the fiberglass window frame.
>
> Good luck with the task at hand,
> Erich
> N28ET Classic Mono 914
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