Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 (James)
2. 04:13 AM - Re: Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 (Pete)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 (Area-51)
4. 07:27 AM - Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 (n7188u)
5. 07:35 AM - Tank vent (n7188u)
6. 07:50 AM - Re: Tank vent (Pete)
7. 08:09 AM - Re: Tank vent (n7188u)
8. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: Tank vent (Pete)
9. 10:53 AM - Re: Tank vent (n7188u)
10. 11:07 AM - Re: Re: Tank vent (Bud Yerly)
11. 11:42 AM - Re: Tank vent (n7188u)
12. 11:54 AM - CKT exhaust cracks (JonathanMilbank)
13. 12:21 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (Donald Cameron)
14. 12:38 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (JonathanMilbank)
15. 01:04 PM - Re: Re: CKT exhaust cracks (Donald Cameron)
16. 02:13 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (JonathanMilbank)
17. 05:28 PM - Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 (Area-51)
18. 06:25 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (Area-51)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 |
- 8/26
Thanks very much for that information Area51.
Next time I get a chance I'll check those locations on my engine.
Regards
James
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of Area-51 <goldsteinindustrial@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2022 6:14:00 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 -
8/26
>
Finished current service session and carried out post quality assurance che
cks this morning on the 912... "Amazing" =F0=9F=98=8A is the word; engine r
uns on the iridium spark plugs like its fuel injected now, unbelievably smo
oth and has got to be the smoothest 912 i've experienced so far; mag drop c
heck is identical at 50rpm; startup is instant with zero vibration through
entire rpm range right down to 1100rpm. Wouldn't surprise me if remaining f
inal O2 sensor mixture tuning session requires no further adjustment. Can't
wait to give it a fly tomorrow morning!
Break Break:
James the oil weeping was identified at two of the M6 oil pump bolts; so Th
ey were removed individually and permatex grey applied to the bolt shanks a
nd refitted and re-torqued. Both valve covers on the right bank were also w
eeping, so removed, checked for any screw driver damage to parting lines, d
egreased both cover and o'rings with shellite then refitted with a light sm
ear of permatex grey at the o'rings then refitted M6 bolts and re-torqued.
(Note that whenever using sealants, especially silicon, on oil-side engine
components to never apply excessive amounts as dags have been known to brea
k off and block fine oil galleries and cause premature component/bearing fa
ilure).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507735#507735
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/c718d874_725d_4787_83be_882d0c0988ba_116
.jpeg
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - |
8/26
912s? What brand and heat range iridiums have you used?
Thx,
PeteZ
> On Aug 22, 2022, at 1:19 AM, Area-51 <goldsteinindustrial@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Finished current service session and carried out post quality assurance checks
this morning on the 912... "Amazing" is the word; engine runs on the iridium
spark plugs like its fuel injected now, unbelievably smooth and has got to be
the smoothest 912 i've experienced so far; mag drop check is identical at 50rpm;
startup is instant with zero vibration through entire rpm range right down
to 1100rpm. Wouldn't surprise me if remaining final O2 sensor mixture tuning
session requires no further adjustment. Can't wait to give it a fly tomorrow
morning!
>
> Break Break:
>
> James the oil weeping was identified at two of the M6 oil pump bolts; so They
were removed individually and permatex grey applied to the bolt shanks and refitted
and re-torqued. Both valve covers on the right bank were also weeping,
so removed, checked for any screw driver damage to parting lines, degreased both
cover and o'rings with shellite then refitted with a light smear of permatex
grey at the o'rings then refitted M6 bolts and re-torqued. (Note that whenever
using sealants, especially silicon, on oil-side engine components to never
apply excessive amounts as dags have been known to break off and block fine oil
galleries and cause premature component/bearing failure).
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507735#507735
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/c718d874_725d_4787_83be_882d0c0988ba_116.jpeg
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 |
Chasing oil leaks can be a challenge. Some used to get excited about achieving
dry british motors but then the rest of the vehicle would rust .
Best way to go about it is start with the worst leak first, wipe it all down as
best you can with old cotton t'shirt and then spot clean with either brake clean
or carbi clean; if its real filthy carbi clean will rip through grime the
best... Get the whole engine and surrounding mounting frame and cowling totally
degreased and clean before putting your lower cowling back on (do not use caustic
degreasers on alloy components; it eats alloy and destroys alternator windings)
... (use compressed air to thoroughly blow off any remaining water if
hosing down degreaser - use acetone last to wipe down cold exhaust headers and
muffler) do an extended ramp run at 3000rpm for at least 5-10 minutes so long
as your temperatures stay green. First few minutes will produce a bit of weird
smell as hot exhaust surfaces burn off.
Pull the lower cowling and start looking from the top front of the engine around
gearbox and fuel pump first then top lower at the oil cooler lines, oil pressure
sender, oil pump and filter, valve covers, pushrod tubes, crankcase plugs
and unions, rear camshaft gear cover... If you are lucky you will be able to
identify more than one leak if there is more than one source) note - don't overtighten
hose clamps on oil lines, some style clamps will cut through hoses if
overtightened. Sometimes oil hose will harden with age and just keep leaking;
replace the hose.
5-10 minutes running is enough to show up a leak; 30-60 minutes flight time is
enough to show up weeping. A leaking/weeping bolt will be wet on its shank when
removed; it its dry then that's not the source of your leak.
The lower cowling vent around the exhaust provides enough room to shine a torch
up under the crankcase for a quick visual. A mirror on a stick is useful as well
with the top cowling removed.
If unions still leak after tightening to correct torque settings then sealing washers
should be replaced. Copper washers can be annealed and reused; Wurth Dowdy
washers are the best for unions and plugs and reusable.
There's no excuse for a rotax engine to leak, however a leaking volkswagon motor
is fashionably acceptable.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507738#507738
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 |
Nice 110 NM (220 round trip) flight for breakfast from 7FL6 to KOBE. It's nice
to be the fastest airplane in the group :D
Son came with me for a change and had a good time.
I modified my vent system to improve filling but actually made it worse. Started
to work on that yesterday but as I got underneath the left wing to keep the
wingtip from banging on some stuff I had on the floor on that side and I banged
my head on the static probe and broke the stupid plastic tip (and gauged my
stupid head). Oh well, just another project for the week!
No pics today.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507739#507739
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Hello,
As I mentioned on a previous message, I am working on improving the vent in the
tank to facilitate filling. I have a pretty fancy vent arrangement suggested
by Bud and it works well but I built it with 1/4" aluminum tubing and it is basically
insufficient in terms of airflow during venting. Works well in flight
though.
So I replaced the single 1/4" tube in my existing vent in the tank with two 3/8"
ones. One will be the permanent vent, still attached to 1/4" tubes to the fuselage
vent at the bottom and the other will serve as vent when filling (with
a quick disconnect valve used by the LR tank but also as the LR tank filling line
via an electric pump in the LR tank.
Well, enough background. My question is that the vent I placed worked worse than
the original because its probably not at the very top RH corner of the tank.
Can I have these pipes touching the top of the tank surface without fearing that
vibration will cause wear between the tube and the tank plastic surface? It's
very had to get the tube close enough without touching the tank top. It should
really touch ensure it is at the absolute top and to work well but a little
afraid of wear in the tank. Maybe overthinking.
Best,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507740#507740
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Fwiw, I have the 1/4 tubing without any filling issues. That said, I did change
from the original T suction break fitting in the top of the cobra to two distinct
cobra holes - vent at the top, and tank horizontal on the side. This eliminated
any fuel from being spit out the bottom fuse vent/pitot. Indeed I use
it effectively to tell me when the tank is full as it starts sputtering away
into the cobra while I am filling. Only a second or two after the sputtering starts
and the cobra fills.
I fill at full speed with the plastic gerry cans vent cap removed. My biggest
concern is wrt static/spark/ignition while fast filling so far so good (knock
on wood).
Note that when I want to fill to the top, I ensure the pilot wing is down (I have
a largish ~6 pogo clearance when wing-high) ensuring the vent is in the tank
air-bubble.
Cheers,
PeteZ
C-GNPZ
(XS fuel filler config)
> On Aug 22, 2022, at 10:41 AM, n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> As I mentioned on a previous message, I am working on improving the vent in the
tank to facilitate filling. I have a pretty fancy vent arrangement suggested
by Bud and it works well but I built it with 1/4" aluminum tubing and it is
basically insufficient in terms of airflow during venting. Works well in flight
though.
>
> So I replaced the single 1/4" tube in my existing vent in the tank with two 3/8"
ones. One will be the permanent vent, still attached to 1/4" tubes to the
fuselage vent at the bottom and the other will serve as vent when filling (with
a quick disconnect valve used by the LR tank but also as the LR tank filling
line via an electric pump in the LR tank.
>
> Well, enough background. My question is that the vent I placed worked worse than
the original because its probably not at the very top RH corner of the tank.
Can I have these pipes touching the top of the tank surface without fearing
that vibration will cause wear between the tube and the tank plastic surface?
It's very had to get the tube close enough without touching the tank top. It
should really touch ensure it is at the absolute top and to work well but a little
afraid of wear in the tank. Maybe overthinking.
>
> Best,
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507740#507740
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Thanks for the reply Peter and interesting to hear you have no issues with the
1/4" tubing as I have.
My vent system also has two vents at the cobra, both horizontal. One is for the
sight gage. The other is a tee where the tank vent is attached and also down
to the fuselage bottom. I have to say it works but from around 15 to 18 I have
to go very slow. Mostly not because the fuel will spit out but because the sight
gage becomes totally unreliable as it seems pressure builds up in the tank
and fills the entire sight gage up. Big deal, not really but wanted to improve
this to be more accurate. My sight gage is against the seatback surface near
the tank and not as indicated by the Europa manual in the foot well.
Is your vent tubing in the tank touching the top of the tank? Sounds as it is since
you say you can fill to the top with no problem.
Best,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507742#507742
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It is near the top, but now you have me wondering if it is touching and abrading..
Im gonna go in with a camera and verify some clearance. I thought I set a
bit clearance when I adjusted it. But need to now confirm for my conscience :-)
The T is problematic I found when the vent starts burbling.
Cheers,
PeteZ
> On Aug 22, 2022, at 11:14 AM, n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the reply Peter and interesting to hear you have no issues with the
1/4" tubing as I have.
>
> My vent system also has two vents at the cobra, both horizontal. One is for the
sight gage. The other is a tee where the tank vent is attached and also down
to the fuselage bottom. I have to say it works but from around 15 to 18 I have
to go very slow. Mostly not because the fuel will spit out but because the
sight gage becomes totally unreliable as it seems pressure builds up in the tank
and fills the entire sight gage up. Big deal, not really but wanted to improve
this to be more accurate. My sight gage is against the seatback surface near
the tank and not as indicated by the Europa manual in the foot well.
>
> Is your vent tubing in the tank touching the top of the tank? Sounds as it is
since you say you can fill to the top with no problem.
>
> Best,
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507742#507742
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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So at lunch I removed my failed vent experiment, cut one of the 3/8" tubes to be
about 1.5" from the fitting so that I can use it as my LR tank filling line
and shaped the remaining 3/8" (or 9mm I think) tube to be placed at the top front
RH corner. I can wiggle the vent fitting at the boss and fill when it touches
the top and the side. I can also spin the fitting a little to feel when I
am just touching the top since the tube is not quite concentric to the fitting
(to reach the RH corner).
I think this will work just fine. A little sad to not have been able to increase
the venting area but we don't refuel these things everyday (I wish).
Regarding abrading the top of the tank, there are some heat shrink tubing out there
that are gasoline resistant. Just a matter of putting some at the end of
the tube and move on.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507744#507744
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I just put thin silicone on it or fuel line on the tip. But gravity works
so eventually the tube may sag
It's experimental.
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2022 1:53:00 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Tank vent
So at lunch I removed my failed vent experiment, cut one of the 3/8" tubes
to be about 1.5" from the fitting so that I can use it as my LR tank fillin
g line and shaped the remaining 3/8" (or 9mm I think) tube to be placed at
the top front RH corner. I can wiggle the vent fitting at the boss and fill
when it touches the top and the side. I can also spin the fitting a little
to feel when I am just touching the top since the tube is not quite concen
tric to the fitting (to reach the RH corner).
I think this will work just fine. A little sad to not have been able to inc
rease the venting area but we don't refuel these things everyday (I wish).
Regarding abrading the top of the tank, there are some heat shrink tubing o
ut there that are gasoline resistant. Just a matter of putting some at the
end of the tube and move on.
Chris
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Sometimes there are simple solutions that seem to elude us :)
Thanks Bud, I will do that.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507746#507746
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| Subject: | CKT exhaust cracks |
After less than 50 hours since buying a replacement exhaust header tube from CKT
for #3 cylinder, it has cracked almost completely around at the level where
the loop attachments for the springs are welded on. Considering that this is second
time that such cracking occurs in the same location on both old and replacement
tubes, it's reasonable to assume that it will happen repeatedly.
This time I'll get the crack welded, but I anticipate that the crack will just
appear sooner than before, due to added welding stresses in the metal.
The carburettors are electronically balanced, the Airmaster propeller is well balanced
and the engine supporting rubber dampers show no sign of sagging due to
age. The whole assembly flies as smoothly as ever.
So who has similar problems with CKT exhaust systems and what has anybody done
previously to prevent cracking?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507747#507747
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
Hi Jonathan
I hope your well? I have had many similar problems with the exhausts pipes cracking,
around the area where the loops Are welded For the exhaust springs.
CKT have been very good and replaced some of my down pipes, with some conversation
with Tim Piper at CKT about the problems he suggested having the down lipes
with the new spigot inserts attached, therefore the newest down pipes I received
have got these spigots attached to the ends which fit inside the exhaust
outlets on the heads, this is on the 2 rear down pipes. In my opinion with the
new spigots attached the downpipes sit better and i feel it helps removes some
strain and stress on the down pipes and hopefully reduces the possibility
of failure.
So far so good with mine now, although I havent done many flying hrs since installing
them along with a new silencer which i had fail around the welds.
Kind regards
Donald
G-PUPY
Sent from my iPhone
> On 22 Aug 2022, at 19:54, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
> After less than 50 hours since buying a replacement exhaust header tube from
CKT for #3 cylinder, it has cracked almost completely around at the level where
the loop attachments for the springs are welded on. Considering that this is
second time that such cracking occurs in the same location on both old and replacement
tubes, it's reasonable to assume that it will happen repeatedly.
>
> This time I'll get the crack welded, but I anticipate that the crack will just
appear sooner than before, due to added welding stresses in the metal.
>
> The carburettors are electronically balanced, the Airmaster propeller is well
balanced and the engine supporting rubber dampers show no sign of sagging due
to age. The whole assembly flies as smoothly as ever.
>
> So who has similar problems with CKT exhaust systems and what has anybody done
previously to prevent cracking?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507747#507747
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
Hi Donald,
Sadly it's the replacement down pipe with the new spigot insert which cracked again
in the same location, after less than 50 hours of operation.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Jonathan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507749#507749
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
Hi Jonathan
Sorry to hear that it was a down pipe with the spigot, I honestly thought the spigot
would help solve the problems. I will inspect my aircraft downpipes again
soon and watch for any signs of failure then. Thanks for the heads up.
I wonder if the downpipes are dip cooled once the loops are welded on? Or are
they left to naturally cool?
Regards
Donald
Sent from my iPhone
> On 22 Aug 2022, at 20:38, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Donald,
>
> Sadly it's the replacement down pipe with the new spigot insert which cracked
again in the same location, after less than 50 hours of operation.
>
> Thanks for the quick reply.
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507749#507749
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
Someone who shares my aircraft and has another hobby, racing small "super go-karts"
with 180 hp motorcycle engines, tells me that the car racers de-stress their
axles by getting them professionally heated to "ridiculous" centigrade and
then let them cool under computer controlled conditions, a few degrees at a time
over several days.
I'm tempted to do this when I have to weld my tube again after it cracks, but the
cost might be "ridiculous" s.
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| Subject: | Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26 |
Hitting head on the spinner after working under the lower cowl hurts real bad;
neck cracks and everything... did it twice two days in a row... changed work method
before breaking neck... spinner didn't budge
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
You may want to review your bolt-up method as the result is repeating... the rear
headers should be attached loosely prior to fitting muffler then front headers;
give it all a jiggle and wiggle when loosely attach and tighten all the headers
gradually after fitting springs giving an occasional jiggle and wiggle
as the headers are tightened; this de-stresses the exhaust system and prevents
symptomatic cracking and leaking seats at the cones; a very thin smear of copperseal
anti-seize on the sealing face of each cone can aid alignment and will
burn off fairly quickly on startup (not always required), copperseal each header
stud and nut too (it is a high temperature paste and will remain intact to
aid periodic service removal)(the stud nuts are reusable and require a lite re-crush
in a vice applied to the lock ring)(studs should have a thread die run
over them before refitting nuts). A thin smear of Maniseal or similar exhaust
sealer in the muffler union pipes can aid gas sealing and will provide enough
lead time to position exhaust system before setting; dags can be brushed off
after drying. Grinding off the spring loop and TIG welding a strap over the crack
repair area before welding the loop back on should add sufficient material
strength to prevent further cracking.
Occasionally a stud will screw out of the head leaving nut attached; fit a new
stud or secure stud in a large vice between copper sandwich and carefully work
seized nut off the stud with Wurth Rostoff. Clean the stud with a thread die
and refit and re-torque into the cylinder head. Run an intermediate thread tap
through the nut and re-crush locking ring before refitting.... Sometimes the
nut just won't budge; put a flame on it until its blood red then unscrew while
hot and keep it hot as its being unscrewed.
That's the whole gamut of working with and servicing exhaust systems.
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