Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:56 AM - Black Plastic Static Vent (Kingsley Hurst)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: Black Plastic Static Vent (Bud Yerly)
3. 09:51 AM - Europa Club Fly-in, Bicester (BobD)
4. 04:08 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (JonathanMilbank)
5. 04:56 PM - Re: Density Altitude - Affects Upon Take Off (Area-51)
6. 05:47 PM - Re: Re: I think I found the leak! (Brad Shafer)
7. 06:26 PM - Re: CKT exhaust cracks (Area-51)
8. 06:31 PM - Re: Re: I think I found the leak! (Brad Shafer)
9. 06:52 PM - Re: Black Plastic Static Vent (n7188u)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Black Plastic Static Vent |
Requesting the number of holes, their positioning and size please.
I accidentally and unknowingly pulled mine off with the pitot cover and it now
lies somewhere in the dirt over 1000 nm from home. I would therefore like to
make a new one.
Many thanks
Kingsley in Oz.
Sent from my iPhone
Message 2
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| Subject: | Black Plastic Static Vent |
Kingsley,
This happens all too often. It would be prudent to carry a spare in your flying
tool kit. Another smart idea is an alternate static source (I have used the
aircraft cockpit pressure in the Europa. Altitude was within 50 feet and speed
within a couple knots.
Here are two fixes a couple of my clients made for a permanent solution.
Joe Like inserted a dome head short sheet metal screw into the end of the static
tube. He then cross drilled the existing stainless tube (not easy to drill)
with the smallest bit he could find. He used a #60 bit drilled at a 45 degree.
Worked OK. I never flew the plane to verify A/S or altitude.
Another customer used 1/16 ID tube I had in the shop and another 1/4 inch OD tube
and some JB Weld Epoxy. He inserted the thin tube into the existing pitot,
using a number of my small numbered drill bits to open up the stainless to fit
the small tube (about an 1/8 inch OD 1/16 ID). He then fit the 1/4 inch tube
over the 1/8 OD tube. He assembled the tubes with a touch of JB Weld, rounded
the tip, then cross drilled the soft aluminum tube (which was a lot easier to
drill) with a #60 or .040 drill bit. Then he trimmed it to length installed.
He worked 1/2 day on it plus cure time. Looks nice and is somewhat tougher.
Another idea was to use brass tubing from a hobby shop to make it up. Again, time
consuming.
The main thing is the home made tube tip is roughly even with the pitot for length
and looks. The hole position is no closer to the end of the round tip on
the straight section at about 1 cm or 1/2 inch back for proper static measurement.
Remember, there is no flow through a static port (or a pitot port for that
matter) (IFR heated tubes and their vents excluded)). So, the size of the
holes is small and tubing size is not terribly important other than for attaching.
Hence the 1/8 ID flex tubing in the Europa is just fine, whereas your A&P
and avionics types all complain there is no flow capability. Education of folks
on pitot/static is tough.
You can look on line for pitot / static tube design. It may help explain why the
static on a tube has to be so far behind the tip if you want to know.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Kingsley Hurst
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2022 7:56 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Black Plastic Static Vent
Requesting the number of holes, their positioning and size please.
I accidentally and unknowingly pulled mine off with the pitot cover and it now
lies somewhere in the dirt over 1000 nm from home. I would therefore like to
make a new one.
Many thanks
Kingsley in Oz.
Sent from my iPhone
Message 3
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| Subject: | Europa Club Fly-in, Bicester |
For anyone joining us at Bicester this weekend.
The Airfield requires PPR, please go to the web address https://www.bicesteraero.com/ppr-booking
Here you will find a full airfield brief and PPR form.
Alan Twigg will be on site Saturday, Sunday and Monday for anyone who wants to
stay over.
The on site "Wriggly Monkey" brewery will be open Saturday and Sunday afternoon/evening
for food and drink.
Tea and coffee is available at the airfield and the use of a fridge for any self
caterers. We do have toilets and one shower on the airfield.
Although most units are midweek working only, Alan will provide some site tours
and buses or Taxis to the Bicester Village shopping outlet can be arranged.
https://www.theeuropaclub.org/events/europa-club-fly-in-bicester
--------
Bob Dawson
Europa XS TG || 912 ULS || G-NHRJ || Dynon Skyview || PilotAware || SmartAss3
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507756#507756
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
The exhaust tube/header/pipe/whatever was welded and has been refitted with utmost
care to ensure that there are no undue stresses imposed by misalignment or
"struggles" with the rest of the CKT exhaust system. CKT considerately includes
a sliding telescopic joint on #1 tube, which should be loosened and free to
slide while securing everything, then clamped up last.
The fracture was circumferential on #3 tube, at the level of the spring loop welds
and I guess that is where the next fracture will occur. This is exactly where
the original fracture appeared and so I believe that two tubes doing the same
thing is a good basis for supposition. I've made a "containment device" by
using a jubilee clamp with a 1 cm wide strap, notching the strap halfway across
in two places to accommodate the tops of the spring loops and tightening it
to cover over most of the welded crack. This can be loosened periodically to
inspect for further cracking and hopefully will keep the fractured ends aligned
if the weld should fail.
Jubilee clamps can be really useful with exhaust tubes and I used a couple with
my original Europa exhaust to securely clamp short strips of steel with suitable
holes as replacement for welded loops which broke off.
My ruse for preventing springs from breaking is to cut a length of metal brake
tube to fit inside the spring, fold an 18" piece of locking wire in half and pass
the folded end twice through the tube, leaving enough length to fit over a
spring anchor point, install the spring fully and then secure the two cut ends
of the locking wire through the spring loop.
Now take another 18" or so of locking wire and wrap it twice around the middles
of both springs either side of the exhaust tube, squeeze the springs in towards
the tube and twizzle the ends of the wire to keep the springs curving in somewhat
towards the tube.
Finally run a line of red high temperature silicone down the lengths of both springs
on the sides furthest away from the tube. Leave to cure for about 3 days
before starting the engine. More than 100 hours for me so far without repetition
of broken springs. My theory is that wrapping wire completely around the middles
of both springs changes the "harmonics" into something less destructive
and the silicone helps to dampen vibrations.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507757#507757
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Density Altitude - Affects Upon Take Off |
Thanks for the responses there.. Smart approach using similar aircraft to extrapolate
approximate performance curves; great idea thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507758#507758
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: I think I found the leak! |
Like many others, I woke up to gas on the floor and a crack in the
tank. Mine was low on the saddle. I liked what Dave Disney had done so
I drained the tank and created an opening in the top. With the ability
to inspect the inside of the tank (which is a very nice option to
have!), I found another narrow crack in the bottom corner that must
have been there for awhile.
Given the placement of the cracks, I couldn't find a way to gain access
with a heat gun so I needed to find another option. I found this (
https://tbbonding.com/) as an option to patch poly tanks. I talked with
them and felt good about trying. I like the idea that the patch is
flexible and will expand with the tank.
Worst case, it doesn't work and I do the full tank replacement. The
bonding process was straight forward and fairly easy with access to the
inside of the tank. So far it is holding well but I'm going to do some
more testing to make sure. I'll keep everyone updated.
-----Original Message-----
From: dmac7 <dmac7@outlook.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Re: I think I found the leak!
Thanks for commenting Tim, much appreciated. The leak was low on the
tank as evidently it emptied the tank.Perhaps I should put a few
gallons of water in the tank view the leak in action?
I was hoping the leak was as simple as sight gauge connection leak or
that sort of thing but I think the photo shows the crack down low
behind the rudder cable back wall of tank.
Could one paste something like Pro Seal on outside of crack and have a
fix?
The Dave Disney fix with a removable lid where one can gain access to
the interior seems the best solution I've seen for a durable repair. A
most intelligent idea in my opinion.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507726#507726
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CKT exhaust cracks |
Lockwire on the exhaust springs sounds like a good idea!
181's 912 has a CKT system fitted; 300hrs no issues...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507759#507759
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: I think I found the leak! |
Like many others, I woke up to gas on the floor and a crack in the
tank. Mine was low on the saddle. I liked what Dave Disney had done so
I drained the tank and created an opening in the top. With the ability
to inspect the inside of the tank (which is a very nice option to
have!), I found another narrow crack in the bottom corner that must
have been there for awhile.
Given the placement of the cracks, I couldn't find a way to gain access
with a heat gun so I needed to find another option. I found this (
https://tbbonding.com/) as an option to patch poly tanks. I talked with
them and felt good about trying. I like the idea that the patch is
flexible and will expand with the tank.
Worst case, it doesn't work and I do the full tank replacement. The
bonding process was straight forward and fairly easy with access to the
inside of the tank. So far it is holding well but I'm going to do some
more testing to make sure. I'll keep everyone updated.
europa-list@matronics.comTo: europa-list@matronics.comSubject: Europa-
List: Re: I think I found the leak!Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2022 12:00:25
-0700
Thanks for commenting Tim, much appreciated. The leak was low on the
tank as evidently it emptied the tank.Perhaps I should put a few
gallons of water in the tank view the leak in action?
I was hoping the leak was as simple as sight gauge connection leak or
that sort of thing but I think the photo shows the crack down low
behind the rudder cable back wall of tank.
Could one paste something like Pro Seal on outside of crack and have a
fix?
The Dave Disney fix with a removable lid where one can gain access to
the interior seems the best solution I've seen for a durable repair. A
most intelligent idea in my opinion.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507726#507726
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Black Plastic Static Vent |
Supposedly the holes should be 6x the diameter of the tube from the tip. My system
suffers from low pressure on static line which results on high IAS at high
speeds. Probably because the holes are in a low pressure area as the air separates
from the tube because of the tip.
Anyway, thought of drilling holes on the steel farther back but a little afraid
of buggering everything up so I ordered some 1/8" ID brass tubing and will reattach
the original tip using the tube inside and some JB weld. My hope is that
it will be a little stronger but with the negative consequence of gouging my
head up worse next time :)
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507760#507760
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